What Are Some Of The Most Overrated Climbs in Yosemite/Tuolu

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wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 5, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
We always hear about the sandbags and how most are underrated. So What are some of the most overrated? My vote goes to The Boltway on Stately....No way it's 10a. I rate it 9.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Dec 6, 2012 - 12:24am PT
The other day I had to explain to someone that Snake Dike was not really "5.7R". It's 5.7 + 5.4R. The 5.7 friction move is very well protected, and the run-outs on the dike are so easy, you can almost climb them blindfolded.

Ironically, the crux of Snake Dike might just be the long, final stretch of 3rd class slab.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Dec 6, 2012 - 12:28am PT
Bishops Terrace


Oh overrated that way.
No idea.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 6, 2012 - 12:58am PT
Regular Route on Fairview and Steck Salathe get more than their fair share of accolades.

Great lines, so-so climbing overall.


Reeds Direct is OK, but that's about it. I like the first pitch best.

Central Pillar's got the money pitch and that little 5.8 roof, but.... nice line, so-so climbing - why all the fuss?

Ahab's not that hard.

Neither is New D, Cramming, Leanie Meanie, Edge of Night.

South Crack and The Yawn are great lines, but kinda boring climbing.


Midterm kinda sux - too slippery and wedged out.



There's way more underrated routes, especially quality wise.

Climbers are like people - most of them do what all the rest do...

On-Site Flasher 69

Sport climber
Riverside
Dec 6, 2012 - 01:05am PT
Super Slide is super soft.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Dec 6, 2012 - 01:24am PT
Crack-n-up ...
TMJesse

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Dec 6, 2012 - 01:48am PT
Summit block of Cathedral Pk is deemed 4th class, but that seems like a stretch. Never seen anyone up there tied in.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 6, 2012 - 02:33am PT
I always felt lucky to be climbing in the Valley.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
Dec 6, 2012 - 02:47am PT
Agree that Tenaya Peak is super easy, but man, also agree that it is a total fun place to be and would do it again in a heartbeat. Great views. I think it would be a great intro for a beginner to get a feel for longer alpine climbs.

Eric
raymond phule

climber
Dec 6, 2012 - 02:58am PT
I didn't think that the east buttress of middle cathedral was a very good climb.
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Dec 6, 2012 - 04:46am PT
Can't think of any overrated Yosemite climbs, though many underrated climbs come to mind.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 6, 2012 - 10:01am PT
Yes, hard to think of the overrated climbs in that area.... I can think of a few overhyped climbs. Rumors of greatness build impossible expectation. But when a climb exceeds those expectations, or the experience somehow transcends all expectation.... that's what we're all looking for, I'd guess.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 6, 2012 - 10:52am PT
I thought Boltway was 5.7/5.8. At least it was when I climbed it.
Byran

climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
Dec 6, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
Most of the ones I can think of that are overrated (in terms of difficulty) are size dependent. Serenity Crack, The Rostrum, Fish Crack, are all pretty light for the grade unless you have sausage fingers. Zorro is sort of famous for being the easiest V4 in the Valley...

And I also concur that Tenaya is pretty much 4th class (and only 3rd class for the first half), with some short sections of easy 5th that you could probably avoid if you want to.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
10b4me....if you keep climbing up past the belay near the bottom of the crack which most people use to finish West Country, Boltway, etc. there are some bolts continuing up the face. That's why there's a 5.8/5.10 rating. Just thought it might be interesting to find the overrated ones.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 6, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
Can't think of any overrated Yosemite climbs, though many underrated climbs come to mind.

+1

I think of it this way because there is no climb I've done that I felt disappointed after doing it. Then again I'm a starved weekend warrior and never gave myself the chance to immerse in a sea of opportunity and really develop my climbing palette.
weezy

climber
Dec 6, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
Not Yose/TM, but there's a "5.10+" hand crack on the far right side of the Reservoir Wall in Indian Creek called Warm-Up crack. I'm in no way a sandbagger but even calling this thing 5.9+ is generous.

Sorry for the desert derail...
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Dec 6, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
I know this is an obscure one but I'd have to say that Death Crack in TM seems overrated at 5.11d. It is tough & challenging but IMHO no way 5.11d. I did it once with a cast on my left leg & a cutoff climbing shoe strapped to my leg cast, so how hard can it be? More like 5.11a.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 6, 2012 - 06:11pm PT

OK I think we've thrashed that one to death.

Who are the most over weight climbers in yosemite / Tuolomne?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 6, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
I know this is an obscure one but I'd have to say that Death Crack in TM seems overrated at 5.11d. It is tough & challenging but IMHO no way 5.11d. I did it once with a cast on my left leg & a cutoff climbing shoe strapped to my leg cast, so how hard can it be? More like 5.11a.


That is a sexy looking crack, good to know it might be in my range after all.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 6, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
Help me out here, are we talking overrated for difficulty or quality?

Most Valley climbs kick my sorry ass, especially the current version.
The off width on Blind Faith seemed a lot easier than Twilight Zone.
The NA was a classic outing but somewhat of a pile as an aid route.

PB
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 6, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
Peruvian Flake.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2012 - 12:33am PT
Overrated both in grade and in reputation....Can include ghosts as well where the climb is not nearly as hard or scary as it's rep.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:16am PT
OK I think we've thrashed that one to death.

Who are the most over weight climbers in yosemite / Tuolomne?


Now we're talkin'

Pics of fat guys climbing really hard sh#t would be way more entertaining.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:56am PT
Pics of fat guys climbing really hard sh#t would be way more entertaining.

We could probably do old skinny guys climbing really easy sh#t...
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 10:07am PT
Maxine's Wall

and

+1 for Peruvian Flake
fosburg

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
Thought about this today at work after seeing the thread this morning.
For sure the 11c pitch on the Rostrum is light, Peruvian Flake, as mentioned, Fish Crack, Butterballs, Catchy, Wheat Thin.
I started breaking into harder grades in Joshua Tree where in retrospect the grading seems stiff so almost everything in Yosemite felt a bit soft.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
Peruvian Flake is definitely a 5.10a primer.

Great climb though, whatever the grade. I had a magical moment belaying a friend up in the waning light after doing Royal Arches one time. No drugs or nothing, just got lost in a timeless moment, staring out over the trees, nary a hint of anything resembling humanity to be seen. I'm not sure what grade you give that sort of experience. Maybe it's an example of the oft-cited five-fun, although it felt weightier than that at the time.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
Crest Jewell seems like it's not really 5.10. With the newer rubber, I think it is easier. Great location though.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
5.9+, tops.
fat-n-sassy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
The Yawn.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Dec 7, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Absolutely Free center route ....
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:21am PT
At least this thread is about climbing but come on:

Talk about a first world problem!


All kidding aside, in answer to the question I didn't really enjoy Crest Jewel, but it was fun because we climbed it in January and topped out to snow and sunset on Half Dome.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:30am PT
If I do Crest Jewel, I also want to do that South Crack on North Dome in the same trip. Which will either entail being incredibly fast (unlikely), or an overnight up there to slog it all out. Anybody that link-up (any combo of: RA->CJ->South Crack)?
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:35am PT
Sounds like fun. I'd camp out & savor, but some folk(many) are faster than I.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:05am PT
+1 for Absolutely Free Center.

If the 1-1/2" crack at the start of pitch 2 was longer than 15 feet than maybe it's worth it, but pitch 1 and 3 are highly unremarkable with pitch 3 being not only wide, but also rough. Then there's the ant trees and the yucky descent.

If this climb was in some place other than Yosemite then maybe it's an OK route. But, given all the great climbs in Yosemite, Ab Free Center is a waste of time and energy unless you have done every other route in the Valley.
brat

climber
El Portal
Dec 9, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
OMG The Yawn is so hard.

Overrated? Maybe Commitment?
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
Damn Kevin, you are trashing half of my favorite routes.

Midterm is in my top ten Yosemite pitches for sure and no the lines are not backing up for that one. It tests all the sizes, technique, and endurance. The most solid rock anywhere I've climbed, not a loose grain on it. It shuts over half the people I've seen down but not that hard with good technique.

Cental Pillar... Best route I can think of for the grade. Linking P2 and 3 is so good.

Reeds Direct...just look at it, vertical, splitter, clean ????

Ahab's not hard???? Shuts most people down.

I agree that New D is soft for 11a on the last pitch but think the route
is a stout affair overall.



The most overated pitch I can think of as far as difficulty is the first pitch of The Free Blast at 10c, more like 10a. I love that pitch though.


I guess we all have are likes, dislikes and challenges.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
Damn Kevin, you are trashing half of my favorite routes.

Gotta laugh at that Tork.

I admit, by nature, I tend to stray from, if not run from, popular opinion and pursuit.

Midterm is too slippery, uniform, and stuffed back in a slot for me. I think Anticipation, TKO, Gripper are all better.

I did the second ascent of Central Pillar, and did the whole original 8 pitch route. Compared to other routes on MCR, it didn't seem that great. I agree that 2 and 3 are good, 1 1/4 pitches might be great, but that's just one an a quarter pitch out of 8 pitches..... MCR is for face climbing ;-)

Reeds Direct pitch 2 is splitter, yeah, and super clean, but repetitious easy moves, and the crux of that pitch is slightly awkward to me. The last pitch crux is short and unexposed.

Ahab's not hard???? Shuts most people down.

That's just it - if you do it right it's not that hard. Intimidating, yes, but overrated difficulty wise, or should I say rep wise, IMO. Great pitch, though, one of the best at Base of El Cap.

New D is a bit overrated quality wise and difficulty wise, I think. It's got good, fairly hard climbing, but it's cut up by ledge systems, and the upper half and crux has easier climbing not far to the right. Not saying it isn't a good route, just that I don't feel it lives up to its stellar reputation. I think The Biscuit is a way better route, for example.





Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
Kevin (Fosburg)

How the hell are you?
You're taking some of the proud off our Rostro-Man day, one of the best days of climbing I've ever had!
I do agree though, that compared to Butterballs, the Rostrum finger crack is a softer 11c.
Josh is generally stout and anything by Lechlinski/Gilje is likely a full heads up sandbag.
Hope you're well!

Perry
David Wilson

climber
CA
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
crux pitch on rostrum
rostrum 11b pitch up high
fish crack ( but i just TR'd )
chingando
crack a go go ( tricky though )
manana
vanishing point
catchy
any pitch of SS if rated 5.10
+ 1 for peruvian


-1 for cramming - hardest 10d i've done in yos
-1 for ahab - also seemed really hard
-1 for top pitch new D

snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
Quality wise- American Wet Dream

Grade wise.... there are soft grades in the park?? If so they must be changed- we have a rep to maintain
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Dec 9, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
Kevin, now I have to rethink my idea of heading south to check out some of that stuff you've been developing. Our differences are scaring me away.


IMO the amount of technique plus mental and physical relaxation required to do Ahab earns it's hard reputation.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
Snowhazed....Also depends on which guidebook you look at. Anything other then Supertopo is what I'm basing ratings on. Supertopo has definitely softened up the grades by upgrading many climbs and in my opinion, screwing up the system because they are way different. It seems as if Supertopo is trying to match trad with sport grades to get the gym crew a more realistic view of what their getting on which I think is not a bad idea except it messes with established rating systems for areas.
And the Warbler has put up some of the most heinous sandbags in the valley. So I would think that anything he says is easy is normal for mere mortals. Get on Quicksilver sometime and let me know if you think it's 5.9.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 9, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
You have to take my words with a grain 'o salt, Tork.

My perspectives are undeniably filtered through some forty years since I was doing those routes.

I do remember getting worked over by Ahab on my first go at age 17, I got up it, but the difference btw that day and the next a year later was so dramatic it struck me that it wasn't that it was hard, but that I just didn't know how to climb that well the first time.

Most of the routes I've done in SD are sport bolted and from steep slab to slightly overhanging. Nearly all on really good rock. With my ankle I make sure ledge and groundfall possibilities are minimal. It's old man friendly, IOW. And super pleasant in the dead 'o winter.

On a certain level that stuff in Southern Yosemite looks similar... Not saying this is up to that level of quality and setting, but the routes, scale, features, and protection are along the same lines.


Edit: If we had rated Quicksilver 5.10, it would have been downrated (by some) for sure. Not that that's the reason we rated it 5.9, it just doesn't have any 5.10 moves on it, IMO. Unless you get offroute of course.

I could see rating it 5.10 as a warning of sorts to the uninitiated.

Still sometimes wish we had put 2 or 3 times the bolts on that so more climbers could enjoy it, but it is what it is...

chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Dec 9, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
Warbler wrote -
There's way more underrated routes, especially quality wise.

Climbers are like people - most of them do what all the rest do...

Clearly your time would be best spent climbing elsewhere, the Valley is not worthy of you.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 9, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
We climb on immutable (with a few exceptions) rock features that were sitting there long before apes evolved into humans. Affixing numbers (grades) to them is a very recent game we play. "Climbs" are neither over or under rated, the arbitrary numbers we give them are transient and will fade away into history.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 9, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
We climb on immutable (with a few exceptions) rock features that were sitting there long before apes evolved into humans. Affixing numbers (grades) to them is a very recent game we play. "Climbs" are neither over or under rated, the arbitrary numbers we give them are transient and will fade away into history.


Donini's right, we need to start making permanent plaques at the base in order to memorialize the grade forever.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 9, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
Clearly your time would be best spent climbing elsewhere

True

...the Valley is not worthy of you.

But that's about the last reason.
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