Female aims to beat the nose speed record!


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Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Dec 5, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
The thread title is demeaning; as are parts of the thread. I took down my post, which pointed this out in graphic fashion, since so few got it.

You lose some, you winsome.


My twin brother's laundry room
Dec 5, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
I am going to dry tool the Shield.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 5, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
The thread title is demeaning; as are parts of the thread. I took down my post, which pointed this out in graphic fashion, since so few got it.


sometimes is hard to make a point like that in the manner in which you attempted it since the subject is touchy and internet communications one-dimensional



Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
I would be way more stoked to see her get a sub five hour nose climb than by whatever the record du jour happens to be, which is utter wankery
Blodgett Goat

Trad climber
Missoula, Montana
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
She has already gone under 5 hours. Whatever happens you can be sure that her current record will have some major improvements.

Dec 7, 2012 - 07:52am PT
Here's hoping she breaks the record, I've followed her a bit as she is one of the athletes on my Facebook page, very impressive climbing achievements male or female.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 7, 2012 - 08:39am PT
Wow, I'm already exhausted reading all of that. I'd offer to make her coffee when she climbs past my ledge, but I probably won't be awake that early.

Best of luck with the sends!

In another post, James wrote,

"Mayan did not free the Salathe- she skipped the other crux 19 pitch. She freed the Salathe Headwall."

James' is the only reference I have heard to this, which was repeated on his blog. Anyone know any more? James?

Mountain climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:56am PT
no question there is some latent sexism in this thread.

but there's a double edged sword to that: i think part of the reason this has been as nearly universally affirmative, as it has been, is due to sexism, as well.

if this was a male, with the same track record, throwing down the same public goal, i suspect there would be more commentary beginning with "i'll believe it when i see it" and trending to the more strongly negative.

point being, if you'll pardon the pun, she's got balls publicly stating where she's aiming to get to, in such a short time, given what she's done to date.

i'm hoping she proves me wrong, and is like the british off-width dudes who trained in their basements, publicly threw down some impressive goals, and then came and delivered.

until then, she/her sponsors have got a little publicity, a little stirring of the pot, and at least from me an "i'll believe it when i see it" coupled with a "best of luck with your training"!

Dec 7, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
I'm fearful that the game of speed will start ending in disaster for some folks at some point. It's a big time goal and I wish her, or anyone going for it, well.

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
Dec 7, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
Agreed, Werner. But of course everyone wants to set their sights for a speed ascent of the Nose as that is the most fashionable, attention-getting goal to shoot for. Nevermind that it isn't likely to get pulled off.

Now if this woman had already gotten close to the record with a partner and was in the ballpark, it would be an engaging proposition. But does she even have any speed ascents? Does she know any of the tricks these speedsters have developed over time?

Who knows? Hopefully this gets attempted soon before the whole thing passed into obscurity from the lack of memory.

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
My first thought was why not [ name ] intends to beat the speed record.

I was reflecting on this, and thought the advancement of people's perceptions about female capabilities would be better served by not emphasizing the female part of this intention or future achievement. By emphasizing the "first female" whatever, it just serves to make it a special case, an exception, and it impedes the general acceptance and expectation for women to achieve at a high level.

On the other hand, maybe as a society we are at such a remedial level that we still need to beat people over the head with the notion of female capability, build awareness for that, before it becomes taken for granted and can be ignored as an issue.

Apparently this thread shows we still have a way to go. I remember as a kid, long before I though of climbing as a possibility in my life, being impressed with some video that must have been about Lynn Hill. There were some guy interviews in there, talking about how a big wall is no place for women, too hard, etc.... Even as a kid I thought these guys were retards and cavemen. Maybe I had a different perspective about women because of being raised by a single mother.

Edit:I have a bad habit of using 'retard' as an adjective, which makes me a cave man too. Maybe using 'cave man' is also an insult to people who happened to be born a long time ago, but they're not here to defend themselves! In any case, I should be more charitable in recognizing that some people grew up without the experience of seeing women perform at levels that equal or surpass men. Sure there are some physiological differences that affect specific capabilities, but they are much less of a factor than we typically empower them to be.

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
It is a bigger deal when a woman drags a 7 lbs of rope (or whatever) and however many lbs of gear up a mile of rock as fast a guy. On average, we're weaker and slower than guys, even if balance and strength to weight have a way of leveling out ability on difficult climbs. If she pulls it off, I think it's a bigger deal because she's a woman.

And I think it's a bigger deal b/c she's a woman b/c she grew up with the girl set of expectations same as every other woman on the planet too.

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
Dec 7, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
I'm just saying, get a speed record of your own recorded for the Nose. If it's in the ballpark, then you have a shot at the title. Otherwise you are just blowing smoke up your own ass. That goes for ANYONE trying to best the current speed record, male or female or combination of the two.

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
I talked to Sean at the bridge the day after they shattered the mixed team record. He had really good things to say about her climbing abilities - I say go for it and kick some ass! I hope to be able to make a trip to the Ditch and watch the attempt.

Dec 7, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
most of you naysayers have obviously never seen her climbing. if she puts her mind to breaking the record, she has a chance i think...
i'd not announce achievements in advance, and can't see why she does that, but who am I to judge her choice?
and yes she did free the salathe by vitually everyone's standard, just like honnold, huber, caldwell, etc. did...

Social climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:31pm PT


Dec 7, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
She did in fact free the "Salathe headwall" with variations to the original Salathe route. If I remember correctly she originally intended to free the whole route and not skip the pitch 19 crux. Everyone besides Jim Herson has skipped the pitch 19 crux except of course Skinner/Piana. I've never really understood how this became the "standard" and excepted Salathe free route. To me it is still a variation to the route just like Freerider is. I've been vocal about that in the Valley and have even given Honnold and Tommy some sh#t about not doing the actual Salathe, but no one really seems to care about it. Maybe someday I'll stop talking sh#t and do it myself. For more of the history on the free Salathe go here to Clint's awesome history resource. http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#salathe
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
link format without ~ so supertopo can handle it.

Thomas Huber also did it via p19. It took him a lot of tries to get that pitch.

Some people call the free Salathe without p19 "Salathe' Light". It's still pretty tough to do the headwall, though. (Which is the difference between Freerider and Salathe' Light).

Most people skip the "Teflon Corner" also (and do the Huber "boulder problem" pitch instead).
But I think that's because the Teflon Corner is often wet or overgrown with weeds, not because it's as stout as p19.
And neither Teflon/boulder option is on the original aid line, so it doesn't matter much.
John M

Dec 7, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
I don't care how high of goals she sets. Its her goals. Not mine. Do I believe she will make it anytime soon? No.. because she doesn't have enough history. But so what. It isn't up to me to believe, its how much she believes and how much that belief drives her.

If setting the goal helps push her, and she has fun trying, then as far as I'm concerned, she wins.

As for first female. Some woman has to be "first female", so to me the title of the thread isn't a big deal. In climbing skill level, women have proven that they can climb as hard. But this isn't just skill level. As Melissa points out, size coupled with strength play a part.

lawrence kansas
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:05am PT
And I think it's a bigger deal b/c she's a woman b/c she grew up with the girl set of expectations same as every other woman on the planet too.
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