Cat Scratch Fever~~~ Whos got it? a TR and commentary

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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 3, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
Cat Scratch Fever   Woodfords Canyon classic..
Cat Scratch Fever Woodfords Canyon classic..
Credit: Ron Anderson



The story,, it was a warm sunny late may day 1978.

Bill Nagel and i hiked along the wall, examining crack after crack after face- on what is now known as the books etc etc. We spied the scratch among the other OBVIOUS cracks there. We looked at the crack going up the face and though Whoooaaa! then looked at the corners and went - whoooAAAAAAA!

Then cam out the bong and we did a few hits to "tune" and it was then,, that somehow,, we thought that corner looked easier than the rest!
Ill mention we were smoking REAL columbian gold, still the stoniest weed ive ever had. So up i went,, armed with stoppers and hexes, EBs scuffing desperately for purchase.


I get about a third of the way up and slip just catching myself in a barndoor action. It was then i woke up to the fact i had nothing in as i looked at bill who wasnt even holding the rope yet..He said,, wondered if you were just gonna solo it.. the pro wasnt great until 2/3 the way up the corner where i got a nice bomber hex in.. I got to the top breathing like a locomotive- and yelled down to Nagel that i was scratchin at that like a cat on acid or sumpn close to that effect,, and he and i at the same time yelled "cat scratch fever ! Tru story- we had just been listening to that album on the way down..

He arrived at the top belay and said,, that seemed a little hard man! For the times,, it was..We did a big fatty then did a rap off some blocks. Got to the car with dirt in our socks. Another day in the garden of eden of rock climbing we had nearly to oursleves.




So Whos done got the FEVER? Ive had more than a few emails this last year about the route. Seems its become a classic..And spit off a few 5.10 climbers taboot.

Originally rated in my guide at 10A, we truly thought it to be harder- and for an onsight maybe even 10C...


Multiple 10+ cruxs with sustained 10 moves in between would equal a 10C no?


Chim-Chim

climber
Dec 3, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
I chopped the bushes at the wedged block start... hard for 5.10a. There's some moderates above the belay ledge above 5.8 handcrack.I placed the first bolt hand drilled above the corner for the belay. Then up cam Brian Way from Yos he had power and finished the task. That must have been eight years ago. Kev Swift and I tr'd the arete to the right. A nice 5.11+, I plan on installing an anchor up and right of the top of CSF. 115ft.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 3, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
Duh Fevah has got its grip upon ME!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
just wanna be fair to those that have flown..10 C would be a slight consolation.

I want one of you hardmen to go up it with just hexes and stoppers and EBs.

Then ya can down rate it..;v)


for comparison, i believe its way harder that true grip at the pieshop and its 10B..
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 3, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
I gotta get to the Pie Shop. I mean, the word "pie" alone should have been enough to sell me.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
Never been! BY ALL MEANS go there. TONS of great routes right up yur hood man..Cracks, finger cracks, run out faces,, OWs Roofs,,THE hardest start to any 5.6 in the region, (Humble Pie),, and great in winter ANY time the sun is out. faces SW...


you can jump on "Wipe out" if brave,, 2 bolts and one pro placement in 140+ feet. 11B R.. Or teenage wasteland is an awsome 10B face - a little runout on the easier sec.


clipping the first bolt 30 feet off the deck
clipping the first bolt 30 feet off the deck
Credit: Ron Anderson



on the way to the 2nd bolt at the crux just out of the picture top. <br/>
...
on the way to the 2nd bolt at the crux just out of the picture top.

Easy rack,, two draws, 1 piece in the #8 rock size, and a sling for a boulder ontop.
Credit: Ron Anderson

Top two are "wipe out"

Credit: Ron Anderson

Desiderata 10 B finger crack
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson
Or Jeebs, you can get your OW fix at the pie too^^^






Credit: Ron Anderson

and has ANYONE done this route in Woodfords, "In the 70s" on a hidden crag not far above the road? There more to do on that crag and ive a feeling its being TOTALLY MISSED.

This sets above the camping area on the old road bed- just behind the first rise and the top of it can be seen behind trees from the highway. Its a SHORT approach!!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 3, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
Credit: kennyt
Ron let's go check out in the 70s
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 3, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
How's the sledding there, anyway?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
Kenny after this month i should be good to go! Rick is chompin at the bit as well- that would be a gud crag to do some sunny day- its really hidden, superimposed and tricky to find, yet its within say 250 yards of the old road camping area on the first rise. seems to me it was 50 to 60 feet tall huge chicken heads and such along the cracks- quite delightful actually.


MH,, Sled training their is fantastic, now that you mention it.. Wonder If Kenny is into sled pulling??;-) We still need a replacement sherpa or two at SOE!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Dec 3, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
Hey Ron,
I've never been to Woodfords but the place looks and sounds sweet.
Where exactly is it?

I'll show ya Cannabis Crags if you give me the tour of Woodfords. (wink)
Any FA candidates there fer "For The Fathers"?

In the 70's looks cool! Luv the name.
Tad
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
Tad,, woodfords canyon is on hgwy 88 between woodfords and the junction of 89 going into South Lake taco. Before you get to carson pass or kirkwood areas.

Its allll granite, one to six or more pitches possible. There still twelve thousand quality routes, but the approach is a three puker to most of it. There are short approach crags but they have been fairly "covered". When i did the guide there were 90 some documented routes and a few that were left out, and now i hear its approaching four hunert.. Be happy to tour ya sometime..It does have some possibilities depending on our UH- bilities...
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Dec 3, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
Thanks Ron,
Just found it on Google Earth.
That is some steep ass terrain,
More like 3 puker and a coronary.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
Its a steep slog or hike to most anything there save for a few roadside crags. There is possibilities behind the Apron, but they may be well over our heads in rating- at least ME fo sho! Ill have to give it a scope sometime here. I just go SLOW up those trudges any more. REAL SLOW..;-)

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