Squamish Legends single pitch challenge

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MH2

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
Good list Ryan. I like to think climbs have a little of the FA personality. True or not, your list of climbs isn't one I've seen before.

Red Nails - tried and failed
Kashmir, Food Frenzy, And Metal for All - haven't tried


Suggestion for other climbs - Wankulator (10d and '93 by Perry) but very good per metre


Sudden Impact - did that shortly after Rolf told me about it. Went past it recently and couldn't recognize it.


Its fun to look back but there have been a few changes. Spry pioneers become legends or vice versa.


True Love hasn't faded, though.


Funny coincidence: Perhaps inspired by meeting you guys and Sandra under Crime, when Robert and I went back there the next day I did my first ever lead of it. I'd been waiting to get good enough.


The best definition of The Golden Age of Climbing, hinted at above, is: the years just before you started climbing


RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
The best definition of The Golden Age of Climbing, hinted at above, is: the years just before you started climbing


Yes.


And laughed my ass off-

True Love hasn't faded, though.


Congrats on crime that's awesome!
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
OK, here's an idea.


Chief's Recommends for 11 Classic One Pitch Squamish 11s
(This list is organized for climbing them all on the same day)

Smoke Bluffs "Warm Up"

1) Partners in Crime 11a
2) Crime of the Century 11c

Murrin "Technician's Circuit"

3) Perspective 11a
4) Hypertension 11a
5) Brunser Overhang 11a
6) Horrors of Ivan 11c
7) No Name Rd 11b
8) Burnin Down the Couch 11d

"Enduro Homage to the Big Stone"

9) Boogie til You Puke 11b
10) Astrologger 11b

"Cool Down by the Sea"

11) Clean Crack 11b

Recommended Bonus Pitches for total of 18 pitches

Penny Lane 5.9 Warm Up
Pleasant Pheasant 11a lead with Elastic Man 11c TR
Sentry Box Regular 12a lead and TR Lap with Direct 12a
Claim Jumper 12a TR after Perspective lead
Caboose 10b for final wind down.

Festivities at Psyche Ledge, Chief Parking Lot (or suitably discreet alternative)
Beers, Pipeloads,Tea or Whatever.

I think this is well within a lot of people's ability.
My only excuse would be sloth and indolence.

ToGnar variations:

Boogie Till You Puke via Apron and Buttress or Grand Via Chimneys
(Send someone around to meet you with the Harley Parts)

Malemute finish via Angels Crest with North Summit tag after Astrologger



Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 1, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
Has anybody ever repeated Dog Face? There was a lonely bail biner on it for ages and ages and ages.

There were some lonely bail biners on Hamish routes Senate Seat and Everyone's a Guide for the longest time too...
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
Sonnie repeated Dogface last year and third classed it with no pads.
He told me he broke a hold and came perilously close to warbling off from WAY UP THERE!
12c-d by his reckoning and I think there's a report in his blog.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 1, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
If I could only think of a one pitch slab route of the right difficulty, I'd suggest adding it to the list. Bloodlust Direct is fairly close..
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
Not a one pitch climb.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 1, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
Maybe with one of those 80 m ropes? Or would that be stretching the rules?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
Awesome list Chief I love the idea, my only question is why not finish on high plains if your already doing an Angels crest lap?? Then u could eschew BTYP & clean crack & finish your single pitch challenge on the summit-, or would that be pussin' out??

That bail biner is still on Dogface, I saw something about Sonnie bouldering king of rock but didn't know he did Dogface too, that's awesome I've never seen chalk on it.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
I know it's stretching it a bit (no pun intended) but the approach kind of counts as climbing and although this shouldn't be an ironclad disqualifier, Bloodlust Direct is the first of a multi pitch route.
Keep digging Mighty, I'm sure you'll find a deserving gem.

When crafting my list of 11 I tried to factor in quality and variety of representative climbing, history, representative locations and the possibility of climbing all eleven in one day.
With these criteria a number immediately got the boot (no pun) including Hungry Wolf and Kashmir.
Astrologger and Boogie Till You Puke are epic good pitches in their own right and the long approaches commensurate with the Chief's mighty stature. Movin' to Monatana P1 and Knacker Cracker although worthy when dry, didn't seem to be in the same league.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
I think Clean Crack is a must on the list and HPD (although one of the finest hand cracks in the known universe) is a multi pitch route.
The jaunt up AC is for those (and they're out there) who would deem my list lightweight fluff.
If they want to throw in HPD to further taunt and mock us, so be it.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 1, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
The Chief Challenge!

Starting now? Chief you gonna buy which ever of us complete all 18 first an 1/8th and an 18 pack!?!

Previous ascents don't count ya gotta hit me again.

Re: legend status - is Perry a cowboy or an Indian ?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
Actually Ryan. You wanna wager me 1/8 and 18 pack to see who can red point them all first, me vs you vs the weather.

All 18 in a day would be crazy, especially this time of year.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
That's pretty good Luke but let's not confuse things.
Ryan suggested something that has rightly morphed into a recommended list of 11 Legendary Squamish single pitch 5.11s. I don't mind you calling my list Chief's Challenge as it doesn't prevent someone from coming up with their own idea. Let's bear in mind there's a number of people who'd 3rd class most if not all of the list so let's keep things in Perspective.
I'll buy a beer or brew a cup of killer Joe for anyone that ticks the list in a day.
Hell I'll even hold the rope on some of the pitches

The bonus stuff is...well it's just bonus stuff.

Now this business as to whether I'm a cowboy or an Indian.
Well, neither actually although I've behaved like both more than once.
Technically I'm Metis which means there's a mix of frog and bow and arrow in the woodpile.
My grandpa Dave Perry was was an English/Scottish fur trapper for the Hudson's Bay Company and grandma was Cree and French. In the finest Canadian traditions, I was raised on bannock, maple syrup, moose meat, saskatoons and preemptive corporal punishment.

I figure I'm actually a Mac which is short for Mackinaw and representative of rough, durable and colorful Canadian working class fabric. I checked out Wikipedia and this quote pretty much sums me up.

Mackinaw.
These jackets have their origins on the Canadian frontier and were later made famous by American loggers in the upper Midwest during the mid-19th century logging boom. In Canada, the "Mac" is regarded as a marker of national identity and working-class values, and has been exploited for effect in Canadian comedy shows such as Second City Television and This Hour has 22 Minutes.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
Is Firewalk still pretty runout?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
I'll buy a beer or brew a cup of killer Joe for anyone that ticks the list in a day.

Whoa!!! Can I even pick the beer?
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
Yeah man, if there aren't at least a dozen takers by next year's Psyche Ledge bash I'll be real disappointed.
Hell, writing the list got me so worked up, I'm inspired to whip myself into shape and give it a try.
Might have to brew myself a cup!
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
How could you guys not mention AstroSquatch North ?

At 5.11 c+/- 0.33 it's sustained stemming and liebacking to a reverse undercling and is by fart the most classic overhanging pumpfest North of West Vancouver

I am training all winter specifically for this pitch, having recreated the crux sequence in my basement
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
I'm down Luke, so long as we smoke & drink the whole prize together in 18 min or less upon the outcome. As well we'd have to take an honest shot at doing the CCIAD after, have to be a long day in June. I've done a bunch of the climbs on Perry's list already which is kinda the reason they didn't make my original list as I was looking for new climbs but what better time than Dec 1 to start a climbing challenge! Theyre all classic so no problem with some repeats. I'd think you'd want to have most of those pitches kind of dialed before even thinking about doing them in a day anyhow. Ok kid your on, better get your woman to cook up some roast, you're gonna need it! Ready, set, go! Post your sends here, no etriers allowed!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
by fart

You're betraying your age bruce. Nobody says "by fart" anymore.

no etriers allowed!

oh well forget it then. I'm out.
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