healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 11:21am PT
|
I have used bowlines for thirty eight years of climbing and never once had one 'come loose', ever.
|
|
Bad Climber
climber
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 11:39am PT
|
@Coz: So,just to be clear, you had a fisherman's finish/backup AND the bowline itself come untied? You have huge experience, and I have no reason to doubt you, but is that the combo you're talking about? When I used to use a (double) bowline, I always finished with the fisherman's. I can't imagine any scenario in which everything comes untied.
BAd
|
|
Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
|
professional riggers always have something extra to say about this stuff.
when i was on the SCMA board, a fellow board member, jim matthews, whom you might know, coz, since he worked for years rigging in hollywood and teaching stage management, got on our case about the clove hitch. the dear clove hitch, the quick, handy, fail-safe tie-in knot, no? not for jim's money. he'd seen it fail, he said, and we argued endlessly whether to be teaching this in our safety course.
ironically, i cornered largo about the matter one day at rockreation. he tied a couple of quick clove hitches to demonstrate how handy and fail-safe it was for a belay tie-in. "what's wrong with that?" he asked. i couldn't have agreed more.
but in guide training they fussed about dressing it properly. i also heard pro guides differ over whether the bowline ought to be backed up. i also discovered that my midwestern sailor way of tying a bowline--two opposing loops for a non-slip bow line for a boat--wasn't acceptable for a climber's loaded bowline. you live and learn.
|
|
BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
|
I love the clove hitch ( can you tie it one handed? ), but in my guides training I was taught always load bearing strand against the spine and back it up wth an overhand on a bight.
|
|
coz
Mountain climber
Northern surly
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
|
Respect, Tony,
Donni, yes all knots work if properly tied, but not if improperly applied.
One thing pro climbers, guides and riggers love to do is debate knots and when to use them.
Largo was always a big bowline fan.
My friend had a bowline back up come undone on a new rope and crushed both heals.
The bowline knot I had come undone twice, was on the North Overhang, it was properly tied, as I had a ritual when guiding to do a big dog and pony show about the tie in. I only failed to tie in properly once, at a gym, because I was talking to and trying to impress a very lovely lady.
I tire easy of these debates, so to each his own, be safe.
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
|
Enough lnot talk.
Largo;
Make sure you get a pair of MobiLeg crutches.. they are really good, no nerve damage, spring loaded etc..
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
|
"Indulge in the kindness of others for a while and be good to yourself while you heal. :-)"
Thanks for that line. I'm learning that such indulging is the highest form of humanity - so long as it runs both ways. Life makes little sense without compassion to sustain it. When one of us goes down - it matters little who - we somehow revert to being divine supports for each other. That's been my experience in this hospital bed, and it has transformed my spirit.
As mentioned, all the orthopedic stuff is done. Now (tomorrow) they transplant a thin slice of muscle over the hole in my shin from where the bone came through. A tricky operation, but with a high success rate here at UCLA.
Hope to have good news soon about this whole fandango.
Love each other. There isn't anything else worthwhile.
JL
|
|
Cragman
Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
|
"Love each other. There isn't anything else worthwhile."
Truth...heal well, John.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
|
"Love each other. There isn't anything else worthwhile."
Ill second that....
John.... good to know your doing better, keep it up, the PT gets fun quickly.
Is this the first time you have been injured? Badly?
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
|
Hey buddy,
Glad to hear you're in good hands and better spirits. I guess it was just your turn this time, eh? Most of us have a turn at it, sooner or later.
From one "frankenankle" to another, enjoy your off time, do what the docs say, and eventually you'll be back on the rock.
Don't worry or fret - just heal, and then - one day - shut up and climb.
|
|
PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
|
John,
Believe me, I know how lonely those Hospital rooms can get.
Here's an ole' timer get well card:
Get Well soon, man.
Consider coming up to my place in Washington ("the Green State") for some rest, relaxation, and rehabilitation.
Phil
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
|
glad yr at ucla largo.
a top teaching & research hospital is a good place to be at times like this.
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
|
Yes, they could learn something from JL.
|
|
Tami
Social climber
Canada
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
|
HOW THE SAM HILL DO YOU SIT STILL IN THAT HOSPITAL BED??!?!!?!?!?!
Dammit , man, I was laid up in horsepistol with a myocardial infarction for three WHOLE days in '08 & it made me CRACKERDOG.
GTFO of that bed and back into service!!!!
Grins.
|
|
TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
|
TY
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
|
Love each other. There isn't anything else worthwhile.
Don't mind being the one to "Third" that.
May the healing journey bring new insight and evolution
Because we gotta make the best of everything. My two injuries definitely contained blessings in disguise
peace
Karl
|
|
Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2012 - 12:33am PT
|
That pic is weird...makes it look like your right leg is chopped off BKA...lol
Getting into the chair is good for the bed sores!! yayayaya
|
|
bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2012 - 12:33am PT
|
Wishing you a solid recovery John.
I went thru a very serious tib fib break in 2007, and I was not smiling like that within the first week, so I can safely say you will be fine. I did make a full recovery though, and became a real climber again this year.
Hang in there bro !
|
|
go-B
climber
Hebrews 1:3
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2012 - 09:34am PT
|
Careful JL, those water and piss bottles are too dame close together!
Good to see you smile!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!