John Long decks at gym?

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Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 9, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
John wanted us to confirm that he fell due to an unfinished knot, and suffered a compound fracture to the lower left leg.


We might have to revoke his double-knott spy status

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MWq6L19eNo

Heal up bro, it happens, or almost happens to everybody

I led the crux pitch on the Good Book once, and the pitch afterwards without my harness doubled back. It started getting loose when I was underclinging that big flake and looked down to see .....

Peace

Karl
vininja

Social climber
NJ
Dec 10, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
https://www.facebook.com/RockreationLA

Dear fellow climbers. John Long requested that we make a brief statement regarding his accident that occurred on 11/29/12 at approximately 8:30pm. John wanted us to confirm that he fell due to an unfinished knot, and suffered a compound fracture to the lower left leg. The rest of the details of the accident are John’s to tell.

Here is a direct quote from John, “Thank you to the Rockreation staff
and members for keeping it together and not panicking in the face of a very scary situation. I consider it my best moment when I saw the gravity of the situation and was somehow able to keep it together and receive the support of the Rockreation Staff.”


https://www.facebook.com/RockreationLA
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Dec 10, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
A case of "do as I say, not as I do"?

Happens to the best of us...
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 10, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
I did that once at Josh.
I led "Sandbag" 10c (Real Hidden Valley)and got on top, sat down to belay Margy and noticed my knot in an unfinished state.
I was glad I made it!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 10, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
My close calls, bonehead manuevers, n00b-worthy clusterf*#ks, and profound errors in judgement are far too numerous to list. I've been fortunate to rack up no more than five or six months in the hospital over last 40 years due to climbing-related accidents. This does not include the four months I spent in a cast (1975) due to an ankle smasher I scored at Tahquitz in January.

There but by the grace, as they say.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Dec 10, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
Another reminder that even the best of us can make mistakes.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 10, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
Another reminder that even the best of us can make mistakes.

Those who believe otherwise should look up "hubris". The fact of recovery remains and I wish him best of luck. Strange how long the events of one second can effect you.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Dec 10, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
I figured it was a fall from the top.
The mechanism required to produce this type of injury is very high energy.
Plane crashes, high falls and automobile accidents where airbags deploy and save your life but not your lower legs
John obviously stuck the landing with his incredible balance and the lower tibia took all the energy of the fall.

These high energy pilon fractures are crazy injures. I have reduced a fracture at a plane crash site in which the talus was hanging out of the back of the ankle but the distal tibia was still intact
The tibia really has to take a direct axial load that literally hammers the tibia down onto the talus and basically crumples the bone.
The main problems with this injury are that the roof of the ankle joint ( the distal end of the tibia) is fractured as well as there being significant communited fracturing of the shin- bone - which you can imagine causes problems.
But even worse than this is the gross damage to the tissue involved in high energy pilon fractures. The tissue is so damaged that circulation and severe swelling needs to be dealt with and allowed to heal before fixing the fractures. Finally the bone of the lower tibia can be so obliterated that it is difficult to find enough of it to get it all back together in one functioning long bone.
The leg is left open to accomodate all the swelling - much like a fasciotomy and a wound vacume is put in place to suck of the extra fluid and swelling. To close the wound you need a skin graft from another area of the body, usually the hip, to be placed over the top of the open hole or slit in the side of the lower calf.
Of course the skin graft sucks almost as much as the initial wound.
This can be a leg threatening injury folks...it's why I say this is bad and very serious on a lot or levels - not just financialy, but emotionally and physically.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 10, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
I've done it too, not finishing the knot that is. Luckily I got away with it. Noticed it when I was clipping the first bolt on London Calling in Josh. By then you have a piece or two of gear in and you're setting up for the crux. As I pulled rope to clip the bolt I happened to look down and saw the unfinished knot. I held the crimp with one hand, finished the knot with the other, pulled the crux without thinking and then bailed and went hiking for the rest of the day. The fall would only have been fatal in a fluke, but serious injury on that rocky landing was assured. Lucky me.

Largo, Hoh Man!! Heal up well. How is the food there? You need good food. Reach out if it sucks, maybe we can put together something...
covelocos

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Dec 10, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
Oh, how the mighty have fallen...
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 10, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
I decked from the last clip up under the roof at Solid Rock San Marcos. Went for the full on rope-in-mouth-double-grab-lunge-oh-shit and landed flat ass on my back.

Luckily I was 19 at the time, and bouncy. Those annoying as f*#k pebbles they have there really do disperse energy.
Jim Pettigrew

Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
Dec 10, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
Get well John!
Compound fracture? Yikes!
Get well my friend!
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
Forget about unfinished knot, I left the ground without any knot, the rope just draped through my swami belt. Fortunately, the rope slipped away before I had any occasion to weight it. Unfortunately, I had to solo the rest of the route. Fortunately, I was able to do that.

I started leaning back on an anchor and realized, in the nick of time, that I wasn't clipped to it.

I once slipped on a pebble near the edge of No Escape Buttress on Mt. Moran and ended up on the edge with one leg hanging over.

On an extremely run-out climb, I arrived at easier ground although with a groundfall prospect. There was protection available, but the terrain was easy and I so no reason to bother, considering what I had just managed. But then at the last minute I decided to place a piece anyway. I took a step up from there, a foothold broke, and I fell two feet onto the piece I almost hadn't placed.

That's four death/dismemberment/paraplegia episodes avoided by dumb luck in going on 56 years, or an average of one every fourteen years. I've never repeated any of those dumb mistakes, which qualifies me for the title of "very experienced." Ha! I prefer that honorific to the rather less dignified "very lucky."

Climbing can be reasonably safe as long as you manage to pay attention to all the details. However, gravity never sleeps, and most of us do nod off from time to time.

Be careful, don't ever get into the superior frame of mind that it can't happen to you, and help out if you can when a comrade falls, remembering that it might well have been you.
Donald Thompson

Trad climber
Los Angeles,CA
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
I consider it my best moment when I saw the gravity of the situation ...

I love that line. In context one of the best lines I've read in quite some time; and I read a lot.
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
Hey Miss Jennie, if you Married -John Long, you would be ...
Jennie Long Long. or..Jennie Two Long...



Jennie Two Long might have more euphony with my wee bit of Indian Ancestry, Nita… ha-ha-ha.

Sorry I didn’t see your post until now. I don’t think Largo and I are related…I think all Longs descendent via Great Britain are posterity of a Norman knight named John DeLong who came with William the Conqueror in the eleventh century.

I read somewhere than John’s ancestry was primarily from Ireland, though.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
Just asked my wife...

"Hey, do you know who John Long is?"

She says:

"Porn Star??"

Pause...

"Oh, the guy who wrote those climbing books?"

Positive energy to you Largo.

From us.



locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 11, 2012 - 07:21am PT


Well to be totally honest...

I've done it at least TWICE that I can recall...(Not tie in completely, lead, then realize, "WTF???")...

I also recently caught a partner of mine making the same mistake...

It does indeed happen...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 11, 2012 - 08:21am PT
probably worth while to take the "unfinished knot" topic to another thread... eh?
BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Dec 11, 2012 - 09:50am PT
I used to work at Rockreation and I recall Largo was always getting busted for tying in with a bowline. Wonder what knot he was using at the time?
WBraun

climber
Dec 11, 2012 - 10:06am PT
I recall Largo was always getting busted for tying in with a bowline.

WTF man.

I've used the bowline to tie in for over 30 years.

I'd tell that Jim Jones owner he's a stupid American ..... :-)
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