John Long decks at gym?


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Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
A case of "do as I say, not as I do"?

Happens to the best of us...
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
I did that once at Josh.
I led "Sandbag" 10c (Real Hidden Valley)and got on top, sat down to belay Margy and noticed my knot in an unfinished state.
I was glad I made it!

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
My close calls, bonehead manuevers, n00b-worthy clusterf*#ks, and profound errors in judgement are far too numerous to list. I've been fortunate to rack up no more than five or six months in the hospital over last 40 years due to climbing-related accidents. This does not include the four months I spent in a cast (1975) due to an ankle smasher I scored at Tahquitz in January.

There but by the grace, as they say.

Trad climber
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
Another reminder that even the best of us can make mistakes.
Jebus H Bomz

Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 10, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
Another reminder that even the best of us can make mistakes.

Those who believe otherwise should look up "hubris". The fact of recovery remains and I wish him best of luck. Strange how long the events of one second can effect you.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Dec 10, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
I figured it was a fall from the top.
The mechanism required to produce this type of injury is very high energy.
Plane crashes, high falls and automobile accidents where airbags deploy and save your life but not your lower legs
John obviously stuck the landing with his incredible balance and the lower tibia took all the energy of the fall.

These high energy pilon fractures are crazy injures. I have reduced a fracture at a plane crash site in which the talus was hanging out of the back of the ankle but the distal tibia was still intact
The tibia really has to take a direct axial load that literally hammers the tibia down onto the talus and basically crumples the bone.
The main problems with this injury are that the roof of the ankle joint ( the distal end of the tibia) is fractured as well as there being significant communited fracturing of the shin- bone - which you can imagine causes problems.
But even worse than this is the gross damage to the tissue involved in high energy pilon fractures. The tissue is so damaged that circulation and severe swelling needs to be dealt with and allowed to heal before fixing the fractures. Finally the bone of the lower tibia can be so obliterated that it is difficult to find enough of it to get it all back together in one functioning long bone.
The leg is left open to accomodate all the swelling - much like a fasciotomy and a wound vacume is put in place to suck of the extra fluid and swelling. To close the wound you need a skin graft from another area of the body, usually the hip, to be placed over the top of the open hole or slit in the side of the lower calf.
Of course the skin graft sucks almost as much as the initial wound.
This can be a leg threatening injury's why I say this is bad and very serious on a lot or levels - not just financialy, but emotionally and physically.

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:10am PT
I've done it too, not finishing the knot that is. Luckily I got away with it. Noticed it when I was clipping the first bolt on London Calling in Josh. By then you have a piece or two of gear in and you're setting up for the crux. As I pulled rope to clip the bolt I happened to look down and saw the unfinished knot. I held the crimp with one hand, finished the knot with the other, pulled the crux without thinking and then bailed and went hiking for the rest of the day. The fall would only have been fatal in a fluke, but serious injury on that rocky landing was assured. Lucky me.

Largo, Hoh Man!! Heal up well. How is the food there? You need good food. Reach out if it sucks, maybe we can put together something...

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:10am PT
Oh, how the mighty have fallen...

Social climber
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:15am PT
I decked from the last clip up under the roof at Solid Rock San Marcos. Went for the full on rope-in-mouth-double-grab-lunge-oh-shit and landed flat ass on my back.

Luckily I was 19 at the time, and bouncy. Those annoying as f*#k pebbles they have there really do disperse energy.
Jim Pettigrew

Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:30am PT
Get well John!
Compound fracture? Yikes!
Get well my friend!

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:00am PT
Forget about unfinished knot, I left the ground without any knot, the rope just draped through my swami belt. Fortunately, the rope slipped away before I had any occasion to weight it. Unfortunately, I had to solo the rest of the route. Fortunately, I was able to do that.

I started leaning back on an anchor and realized, in the nick of time, that I wasn't clipped to it.

I once slipped on a pebble near the edge of No Escape Buttress on Mt. Moran and ended up on the edge with one leg hanging over.

On an extremely run-out climb, I arrived at easier ground although with a groundfall prospect. There was protection available, but the terrain was easy and I so no reason to bother, considering what I had just managed. But then at the last minute I decided to place a piece anyway. I took a step up from there, a foothold broke, and I fell two feet onto the piece I almost hadn't placed.

That's four death/dismemberment/paraplegia episodes avoided by dumb luck in going on 56 years, or an average of one every fourteen years. I've never repeated any of those dumb mistakes, which qualifies me for the title of "very experienced." Ha! I prefer that honorific to the rather less dignified "very lucky."

Climbing can be reasonably safe as long as you manage to pay attention to all the details. However, gravity never sleeps, and most of us do nod off from time to time.

Be careful, don't ever get into the superior frame of mind that it can't happen to you, and help out if you can when a comrade falls, remembering that it might well have been you.
Donald Thompson

Trad climber
Los Angeles,CA
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:11am PT
I consider it my best moment when I saw the gravity of the situation ...

I love that line. In context one of the best lines I've read in quite some time; and I read a lot.

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:46am PT
Hey Miss Jennie, if you Married -John Long, you would be ...
Jennie Long Long. or..Jennie Two Long...

Jennie Two Long might have more euphony with my wee bit of Indian Ancestry, NitaÖ ha-ha-ha.

Sorry I didnít see your post until now. I donít think Largo and I are relatedÖI think all Longs descendent via Great Britain are posterity of a Norman knight named John DeLong who came with William the Conqueror in the eleventh century.

I read somewhere than Johnís ancestry was primarily from Ireland, though.

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:56am PT
Just asked my wife...

"Hey, do you know who John Long is?"

She says:

"Porn Star??"


"Oh, the guy who wrote those climbing books?"

Positive energy to you Largo.

From us.


Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 11, 2012 - 10:21am PT

Well to be totally honest...

I've done it at least TWICE that I can recall...(Not tie in completely, lead, then realize, "WTF???")...

I also recently caught a partner of mine making the same mistake...

It does indeed happen...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 11, 2012 - 11:21am PT
probably worth while to take the "unfinished knot" topic to another thread... eh?

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
I used to work at Rockreation and I recall Largo was always getting busted for tying in with a bowline. Wonder what knot he was using at the time?

Dec 11, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
I recall Largo was always getting busted for tying in with a bowline.

WTF man.

I've used the bowline to tie in for over 30 years.

I'd tell that Jim Jones owner he's a stupid American ..... :-)

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
For the record I have no problem with the bowline (when it's finished and backed up) and I sure as hell never told John what he should or should not tie in with. Obviously if you were distracted (by a pretty girl or a moment of deep insight for instance) you could forget to finish any it easier to unfinish a bowline?
Regardless- John I hope you get the best care possilble and heal back stronger than ever,

Social climber
The internet
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
I guess "unfinished" could mean 2 things:

1) The knot was not fully tied. It was an incomplete knot.

2) The last few inches of the rope were not terminated to a fisherman's knot or similar. This is probably more important for a bowline than a figure 8.

I was assuming 1) was the case here, though I could see a "loose" bowline that was "unfinished" causing a problem as well.

I use bowline for single pitch sport, basically so I can untie after repeated falls. I use a figure 8 for multipitch climbing, where I don't want the knot coming loose over time. Most of my partners do the same.

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