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MH2
climber
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Dec 17, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Yes, they could learn something from JL.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Dec 18, 2012 - 01:59am PT
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TY
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 18, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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Love each other. There isn't anything else worthwhile.
Don't mind being the one to "Third" that.
May the healing journey bring new insight and evolution
Because we gotta make the best of everything. My two injuries definitely contained blessings in disguise
peace
Karl
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 18, 2012 - 03:33am PT
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Wishing you a solid recovery John.
I went thru a very serious tib fib break in 2007, and I was not smiling like that within the first week, so I can safely say you will be fine. I did make a full recovery though, and became a real climber again this year.
Hang in there bro !
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 18, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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Yesterday at UCLA;.....John is on the mend. It was good to see him.
John and Tony Yeary......
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go-B
climber
Hebrews 1:3
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Dec 18, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
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Careful JL, those water and piss bottles are too dame close together!
Good to see you smile!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 18, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
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Not sure if I've missed it, as I don't follow all the threads on the Taco, but has anything come out on the cause more than "unfinished knot"? I had a friend tell me that he'd read that the knot *was* finished, but there was no backup tied. I do not want to spread rumors, and if nothing has been said, that's fine. I would just like to know if what i was told is true.
GO
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yeahman
Mountain climber
Montana
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Jan 18, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
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It was unfinished.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jan 18, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
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Well John now that you have joined the middle aged gimp club (I am a member)
you can help petition for a handicap system like in golf. A 10a could become 10c if you have arthritis or 11b if missing a limb. Cosmic Cragsman might rate an 11a once his shoulder heals a bit.
Todd Gordon will get nothing for his hair-challenged situation but taking care of 3 young kids would rate a 1 letter boost.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
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Jan 18, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
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i have one hand free 2nd weekend in march,
maybe one of yuall could meet up
with me in some sketchy ghetto
and help me kick my own asse.
i need's some recovery to
exhaust all this runaway well
being's i've been joying
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 18, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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yeahman said:It was unfinished.
As has already been pointed out upthread, "unfinished" can mean several things. If you've a link to anything more clear, that would be appreciated.
GO
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 18, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
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I made the two bowline loops, and threaded the rope through my harness, but I didn't bring the rabbit out of the hole and around the tree.
So "unfinished" in the sense that he began climbing before finishing tying the knot, which means there was no knot at all.
NOT "unfinished" in the sense that the bowline was tied but none of the possible bowline back-ups were applied.
The Bowline-Instrument-of-Death crowd leaped on this as an example of the danger of bowlines, but exactly the same type of accident might have (and has) occurred with a figure-eight.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 18, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
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Thanks RG. So the rumor I heard was untrue. Glad to hear it.
Hope JL recovers quickly and fully.
GO
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 18, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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we do the "John Long" inspection at the gym now... making sure the climber has finished their knot...
easy to do... and we get to think about John all the time...
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 18, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
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I'm going to just toss out my random baseless theory about the knot-thing.
Edit to delete my wrong theory now that R-Gold gave me the slapdown ;)
@ Donald:
John Long is the lead singer of some washed up rock band and I think the "knots" are his backup singers.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jan 18, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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Gyms are mostly jingus and the good ones are bouldering oriented.
The best ones are private garage affairs.
In my Freakin' opinion.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 19, 2013 - 12:27am PT
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I'm going to just toss out my random baseless theory about the knot-thing.
You got the characterization right.
John told us exactly what happened, and I just re-posted his quote five posts up from your RBT.
HIS KNOT DID NOT UNTIE!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 19, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
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Sorry R-Gold... and you can back off the bold buttons there. I actually backtracked looking for John's (personal) explanation before posting. I was trying to avoid the mistake I just made, and evidently didn't go back far enough and scrutinizing your re-post was off the radar. It didn't register that it was a direct quote from John for some reason.
Hope John has a good recovery BTW.
Edit @ rGOLD: Viva la Chopolette! If John had been using like.. 12 knots to tie into that gym anchor, this tragic accident never would have happened. ;)
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 19, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
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JTM, I got the quote from a Rock and Ice update, http://tinyurl.com/RandI-Largo-Update. At this point I don't recall whether it or a link was ever posted to one of the two threads here.
Sorry about the bold-faced shouting; at the moment it seemed to be called for, given that accurate information was available and had just been provided.
I can't fathom why you bring up the Chopolette. Ha---I had to search to discover it is something I posted. It has absolutely nothing to do with tying in and hasn't the faintest connection to John's accident.
For anyone whose interest is now unfortunately piqued, the Chopolette was part of a now seven year-old discussion initiated by Largo on rc.com on self-equalizing anchors. Even at the moment of proposal, it was clear that there would be too much friction in the "equalizing module" for it to perform effectively. It was a concept proposal. I went so far as to convince Mal Daly to make up a version for me modeled on the Trango Alpine Equalizer, but that prototype too seemed to have too much friction to be effective, and in any case none of my friends would use it.
We now know, because of further testing, that three-anchor self-equalizing systems in general perform no better than fixed-arm systems, which themselves equalize quite poorly. The Chopolette and all the other delightful inventions in that extensive thread were doomed to a fully-deserved irrelevancy.
As for the crack about "like...12 knots," the sad fact is that John's accident would have been prevented by one knot, the one he never finished tying.
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Jan 19, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
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Jan 18, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
we do the "John Long" inspection at the gym now... making sure the climber has finished their knot...
easy to do... and we get to think about John all the time...
So do we... And think about him, too
:-)
jb
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