John Long decks at gym?

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kiloka

Sport climber
Denver, CO
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 30, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
I just saw a post over on r/climbing that John Long decked and shattered his ankle at a gym last night. Anyone have anymore detail? The guy is a damn legend. I hope everything turns out ok.

http://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/1427lf/for_anyone_who_may_know_him_or_be_a_fan_last/
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
Wow, I hope that's not true. That's also not easy to do at a gym these days.
eKat

Trad climber
BackInTheDitch BackInTheDirt BackInTheDay
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
John Long please pick up any white courtesy telephone, John Long, WHITE COURTESY TELEPHONE, PLEASE!
Anastasia

climber
InLOVEwithAris.
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
John, hurt in a gym? That does not sound right.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
I could believe that John Long hurt a gym.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
huh??
10b4me

Boulder climber
member since 2002
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
John has been known to climb at Rockreation in WLA. Doesn't Fluoride work for them? Maybe she knows.
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
It would appear that he did in fact injure himself at the Gym, he's resting at the moment and I'm sure he'll tell us all about it soon. . .df
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Ho Man!!...that blows. Here is hoping you heal up quick and well John.


It can happen to anyone

Feckin gyms.... great for developing strength/endurance but I still don't like em much.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
wow, that is some irony, I am sure John will write a great story about it!
rbolton

Social climber
The home for...
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
Johns been known to show his bone now and then. Nothing wrong with that.
locker

Social climber
D#@&%ebag Central
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:54pm PT

Unfortunate...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
gyms are dangerous.. get dropped??
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
Oh crap!

Prayers for a successful surgery and quick recovery!
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
Jeezuz Crisis!
Waiting for confirmation of this unfortunate rumour before launching into blistering excoriation and offering heartfelt best wishes.
PB
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
Oh and if you screwed up John please let us know... we will enjoy mercilessly skewering our favorite resident LEGEND...

Hmm I'd hate to be the belayer if that is where the error occurred...

OOOOOOO mebbe the gear failed...cause you are so LARGO... and we can have an orgy of postmortem analysis....




















and of course





















yes

































YER GUNNA DIE!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
If John got hurt, doing it at the gym would be about right.

I just got off the DL after nine months. I fell off the top of the boulder at our climbing gym, When I think of some of the highball falls I took while bouldering in the ancient days before pads, I'm still amazed that the only time I hurt myself bouldering was falling less than eight feet, feet-first, onto pads.

If you really are hurt, Largo, best wishes for a speedy and complete recovery.

John
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
OOOMan..... snapped it like a birdy leg...


Heal up John.

So sorry
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
I'm sure he's out riding his uni one footed right now.

Heal up Well Largo.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
U gotta love the modern age, when your crunch at the local gym is all over the evening news....

Hope all is well Largo. As soon as possible at least. Yikes.
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
Jack severed his achilles tendon at the gym once years ago when a foothold spun....was up just one bolt, so fell hard and slammed his leg into the wall, and his achilles just rolled on up his leg! :-( Brutal and long recovery (I think it was 3 months non-weightbearing), but he recovered 100% in time.........
John, if this rumor is true, I hope you heal quickly!!
cheers,
Pam
squishy

Mountain climber
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
baaaa, gym climbers...

hope you get well soon largo, tell someone to bring a laptop to the hospital bed so you can tell us the story
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
There sure have been more accidents and bone-brakes at my local climbing gym than I've heard about at the Reed's Pinnacle Area. Just from watching the flashing lights in front of the place, I'd say there's been a broken femur, three fractured vertebrae, a broken ankle, and who knows what else due to either being dropped by a belayer or falling off a bouldering wall. Heck, I tore my rotator cuff and dislocated my arm there too.

Much safer outdoors than in the 'controlled' indoor environment.

Heal up quick, Largo!
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
He's bound to wax philosophically about it once he's back on-line. The mind usually imposes on the body, sometimes it's the other way around. Gotta suck as subjective experiences goes.
Chaz

Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
FALL ON PLASTIC - DRIVEN INDOORS BY INCLEMENT WEATHER - NO HARD HAT
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
Just spoke to him. In the hospital and pretty groggy, but still indomitable in spirit.

He said he was pinching a puny wafer with maximum might when his foot, which was splayed out on a slanting rugosity, slipped.

Rick



labrat

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
Heal up soon Mr. Long!
Erik
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
FALL ON PLASTIC - DRIVEN INDOORS BY INCLEMENT WEATHER - NO HARD HAT

haha...


Get better John...Hey, if you've gotta break your leg you picked the best place.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
Damn those slanting rugosities ! ! !
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
Sending some good vibes your way, Mr. Largo
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
Wishing John a speedy and complete recovery.
Cruel invective to follow.
Brian

climber
California
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
Aw shite.

Get well soon John! Hopefully it will be a quick and complete healing process.

Brian
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
John, it was great meeting you at the crag a few months ago, and it would be a pleasure to rope up again sometime, so heal up quick, and well! I'm glad his spirits are intact, even if his leg isn't.

Josh
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
For Real ? Largo you retard. Bones out and blood all over the place - that will make fer a good story, however.

Largo's gonna hafta get that MD kid of his to wave her magic chicken over this injury.

Waiting for Perry's excoriation :-D hahaha!!!

Heal up fast 'n' well old guy !!!!
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
I gave up bouldering when I turned 50. The elderly human body just ain't made for that kind of abuse. ha If it wasn't a twisted ankle it was a pulled finger-tendon, then a tweaked knee. And each one would put me out for 6 months or so.

get well soon.....
Gene

climber
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
Largo's gonna hafta get that MD kid of his to wave her magic chicken over this injury.


Cartoon, please. Nice image.

g
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
Heal up! Damn.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
How do you navigate to the first post in that thread linked above?
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
Damn.

Another casualty of the woefully insufficient instruction gyms provide before letting climbers endanger themselves.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
It would be cool if James went to visit him in the hospital.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
Largo is doing well.

He says he'll NEVER climb in a GYM again!

photo not found
Missing photo ID#276325
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
So was this a bouldering accident or roped gym climbing? Seems like it could be either, considering Marty Karabin broke his femur bouldering a while back.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
Heal up fast! I knew real climbing could never take you down.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
I gave up bouldering when I turned 50

Me too. It's the jumps and landings, even on mats, that are brutal after that age. (Yes, I know, there are always exceptions)

Sorry to hear of this, John. Heal up good . . .

;>(
10b4me

Boulder climber
member since 2002
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
that's a bummer. heal up John.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
Best wishes to you for a quick recovery, John!

Cosmic: I actually lived in a cast very similar to that one for four months. Badly broken femur. Sucked! (Nice photo manipulation, though...)
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
He said he was pinching a puny wafer with maximum might when his foot, which was splayed out on a slanting rugosity, slipped.

Sounds like he was unroped, or he would have mentioned the part about the belayer failure. Hopefully it will heal completely - the older you get, the longer these injuries never go away ...

Also hope he got detailed pictures of the accident scene, as he taught us all to do. Especially the bone sticking out. At a minimum, we should get to see the stitches.
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
The Largor they are, the harder they fall.

Sorry to hear this, JL. Heal up fast.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
Yikes. I hate reading the "accident analysis" so close to the incident like that which is illustrated in those linked comments.

I also hate seeing confirmation that accidents can (and do) happen to the best of us.

Like all here, I wish our verbose metaphysical pioneer and cuddliest stone master the speediest of recoveries. I was reading some Largo lore recently and I only wonder if he felt the fear running up and down his spine like jackals when this happened?

I'm sure there will also be a cute nurse or two around Largo can regale with larger than life tales ;).
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
Hope your recovery is short and you heal up soon John.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:29pm PT

Hey John, heal up fast.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
Ouch! Sorry t hear that JL. Honor the healing process and think pure thoughts.
Mal
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
I'm sure there will also be a cute nurse or two around Largo can regale with larger than life tales ;).


It'll be like the last pitch of Astroman, sans cord. He pops on the final move, but then does some Warner Brothers cartoon stuff on the way down, steps off the falling elevator at the last second, and only bungs an ankle!
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
Feed him some Percocet and give him a typewriter so we'll all reap the rewards in his next book.

Fodder for Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Largostyle.

Heal up JL!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
Ho man, it was dark outside, and the light indoors was no better ....


Frick, no one will ever care about my sprained thumb with guys like Largo going all compound on us.


Heal up man, we're still shy a couple of books of great stories...
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
Poor John.

I had surgery today, still a bit foggy. No bones sticking out (i am such a noob, couln't even brake my leg the way John did. But he didn't give any instructions in his books!)

Gym ingured:
photo not found
Missing photo ID#275982
norma r

Mountain climber
Ventura County
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
Thank goodness it wasn't the sight of a pretty girl entering the gym to make Largo loose his concentration. That would never happen!

Heal fast, Gramps!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
Speedy recovery John,
on the positive side you'll have more time to write or spray around here.
Maybe a trip/slip report is in order.
Tad
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
pinching a puny wafer with maximum might when his foot, which was splayed out on a slanting rugosity

Now that sounds just like John!

Heal up fast.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
Now it is going to be called "pulling a Largo".
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
Sh#t happens to the best of us.

I was in a gym climbing on one of those self-belay machines. Up down-up down, over and over until one time, I had a "senior moment" and forgot to clip in.

I was 2/3 the way up and came off. Fortunately, I landed on a matt; and proceeded to limp out, kind of embarrassed. I finally got a cat/scan a week later, since it was still hurting. The result-a fracture thru my tibia.

Heal up fast John.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
Gawdamn gyms sound dangerous......
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:18pm PT
that sucks... there is a mantra I repeat when I'm at the gym "don't get hurt in the gym, don't get hurt in the gym..."

of course, it happens...

heal up old-dad Largo!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
SteveA,
Once, I forgot to clip the autobelay as well! But as I grabbed a hold, I just remembered that I forgot my chalk! Turned around and ... wtf??? I forgot to clip! LOL. sucs to be old

gyms don't hurt people, people hurt themselves
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
Ed, or working on the roof, or up in a tree!


Gyms are for hardmen. People that don't climb in gyms are tossers.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
SteveA,
Once, I forgot to clip the autobelay as well! But as I grabbed a hold, I just remembered that I forgot my chalk! Turned around and ... wtf??? I forgot to clip! LOL. sucs to be old

gyms don't hurt people, people hurt themselves


I didn't engage the mini trax once on a solo tr. I was in a nice handjam, fortunately, engaged that sucker and then hung on it to recover from the shock. I also forgot my backup device, so it was a complete mini stroke moment ;).

I love those auto belays and the solo set ups, but you gotta pick up the slack we can usually expect from a partner. Things like, hey, you don't even have a rope on you (another story for me).
WBraun

climber
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
How in the hell does a honed master such as Largo deck in gym?

Was he unroped?

This report is so way homo.

Largo is so much larger than all this way homo reporting ......
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
Whoa man, shoulda stuck with FS'n Left Ski Track and the like...

Heal up and best wishes on your recovery
Betelnut

Mountain climber
So. California
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
More musings from the genius, Werner.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:05pm PT
a bad owie. here's to good mending, john.
strangeday

Trad climber
Brea ca.
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
Best wishes for a speedy and full recovery... Guess it shows that it can happen to anyone.

I've seen more compound fractures in the gym than in motorcross racing.
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
Spandex and helmets involved, always ends up bad.


Hope this is a farce, if it ain't, hope your out of pain now.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
Hoh Man that sux. Heal quickly and completely.
This is for you John.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#131251
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
The worlds 'spose to end in 12 days and now this!!???
It's more than I can take !!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
Bummer, dude.

Ankles are slow. Good luck with it
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
WTF Herr Braun???
henny

Social climber
The Past
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
Just goes to show how much more dangerous the gym is than a place like, oh, say, Borneo.

Dang dude. Speedy recovery.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
Wow, so yous guys jump all over a single unverified internet post? I hope it's a troll.

And if knott - heal up well!

Gyms are dangerous. You could fall. You could get hurt. Stick to the big walls.

Hey, you litigious Merricans - where's a lie-yer when you need one*?

Cheers,
A Former Frankenankle,
Pretty much recovered



*C'mon, it's Friday night, eh?
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
Recover fast, John!
Michelle

Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
heal up buddy!

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
Werner's just blowing smoke....again.

And trolling....

And having fun....
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
Temporary thread drift:

PHILO: if, as it seems, that is your original work/drawing, you are incredibly, unbelievably skilled. Both the thought behind it and the actually pencil-to-paper work are just amazing.

You've posted it before and I've always assumed that it is your original work, but never taken the time to comment.

LARGO: Damn, the last thing a guy needs.... I hope you heal well and that you keep your normal great attitude and sense of humor.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
Well that sucks, heal up well JL.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
Cut the man some slack....he's been a little out of shape, and was working hard to get back to his old honed self.

He'll bounce back.











































photo not found
Missing photo ID#253495
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
check out his chalk bag, or is it too homo, Herr Braun?
tiki-jer

Trad climber
fresno/clovis
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
Speedy Recovery Sir! And what Henny said!
WBraun

climber
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
check out his chalk bag, or is it too homo, Herr Braun?


ROFLMAO !!!!!
go-B

climber
Hebrews 1:3
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
Cr@p! Heal up PDQ!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
So sorry to hear this;....If you need anything, John;.....give a call (760) 366-9395........
Nick

climber
portland, Oregon
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
Damn Gyms. Feel better John.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
Largo, you da man! Don't worry, heal well!

dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
Hoh Man....I don't believe it for a second!






edit....Sorry to hear about that John. Get well.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:35pm PT
Is it too early to start blaming a Kryptonite infused Grigri? The top climbing writer of the age augered in at a gym? WTF? That's like saying things went bad after Ron Jeremy slept with Lorena Bobbitt and she cut his slong off. Just...not....right.

Add me to the long list of well wishers John. Heal up.

Cosmic: LOL. Thanks for the entertaining comments all the way down the thread too.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:35pm PT
That totally sucks.

I destroyed an ACL tendon and tore some of the meniscus jumping down a few feet in the gym. I've jumped off boulders without pads from way higher hundreds of times. It is now ten months after the reconstruction operation and I'm climbing ok but can't really run or jump rope without pain.

I'm convinced that landing on a pad was actually the cause; my ankle rolled into the squishiness, allowing my knee to displace inward. But I should also admit that because of the pads and the disco atmosphere of the gym, I may not have been paying as much attention as I should have to how I landed.

Unfortunately, (a) gravity never sleeps and (b) it is just as strong indoors as out.

Hope you heal up well Largo.

HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
Sorry to hear about this John. Take care, heal well. You'll be pulling down again soon.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
man that'd be rad if this were a troll.

It's more 'unbelievable' than watching the race for the Nose.


But if not then a speedy recovery and painless wishes sent your way Largo.

Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
i bet somebody at the gym is gonna get their ass kicked,

Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
Largo, This should give you lots of time to confuse everyone some more by posting constantly on your "what is mind" thread while that thing heals up.

May it heal up quickly.


Still no proof this actually happened.
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
Get well fast, there's work to be done. Hopefully you ride goofy.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
Largo dude... I totally hope you're not hurt every bad


Cause then it would be Ok to mercilessly tease you, otherwise I'll feel bad


It's just too bad it didn't happen in some larger than life sexy story


Like tripping over the toilet in a drunken stupor


Or skidding off some hi-ball Mountain Unicycle test-piece

Wishing you all the best recovery and whatever journey this takes you on

PEace

Karl
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
This is why I avoid the climbing gyms.

Just sayin'...

Heal up, John!
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
Oh, what a bummer. So sorry to hear this.
Hope the pain passes quickly.
BillL

Trad climber
NM
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
John, Sometimes indelicate things must be said: get a stool softener to take with the pain killers. Best wishes and hope to hear some more stories from you. Bill
locker

Social climber
D#@&%ebag Central
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:49am PT


"This is why I avoid the climbing gyms."...


Yeah...

no one ever broke their foot climbing outside...


WBraun

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:52am PT
no one ever broke their foot climbing outside...

It's the truth.

Only the material body breaks the owner never does ......
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:52am PT
Damn, but if these aren't just the sort of risks you face when you can't pass the belay test.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 1, 2012 - 01:51am PT


It happens to the best, Largo.

Mark Powell, just to name the best of them.

Get well and WTF.
MH2

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:15am PT
It could happen to anyone.

Now I almost believe that.
Borut

climber
french, spider, cheater
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:18am PT
How are you doing sir?

All the best while recovering!


Borut
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:43am PT
John, Sometimes indelicate things must be said: get a stool softener to take with the pain killers. Best wishes and hope to hear some more stories from you. Bill


No joke, man. Warm milk with prune juice may loosen those piles up too.

Also, @ Bluering: If you don't know anybody who has broken themselves outdoors, you don't know many people who climb at all. Additionally, the dangerous gym argument is plain hooey, but I expect little more from you on any subject.
HME

climber
Los Angeles
Dec 1, 2012 - 06:13am PT
Hello All,
Before the rumor mill gets to vicious... John did sustain a lower leg injury from a fall at Rockreation West LA. As far as the details that will be his story to tell...
I have been with him all day and through the night tonight and he is doing well. He will pick up the white courtesy phone when the meds have worn off enough and he can find it.
All your love, healing energy and wishes for a speedy recovery are much appreciated.
Hot Mama Erin
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Dec 1, 2012 - 07:05am PT
dude, get your prance back on ... quick!
QITNL

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 07:14am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1970263&msg=1970401#msg1970401



looking good. get on your feet again, dude.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 07:48am PT
Fricken Largo, huh? That'll teach ya. ;-)




I hope you mend well.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:11am PT
hey there say, largo...

sorry took so long to get in the flow here...

at first, i thought it was just 'you all playing around'
with 'picture posts' or links, etc... so i was busy
reading elsewhere at the ol' taco...

well...

it got so long here, that i got worried about you...
whewww... glad to hear you are going to be okay...



god bless...

Credit: neebee

Bill Mc Kirgan

Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:13am PT
Wishing you a speedy recovery Mr. Largo
eKat

Trad climber
BackInTheDitch BackInTheDirt BackInTheDay
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:23am PT
Long, Damnit!

SOOOOOOO sorry to hear this is true!

ox

Brockman
Silver

Gym climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:38am PT
Ugh broken ankle fubar man.

We've never met but I think you look good in a red pasely dress. Who's that crazy kid behind you in the pic and that old man on your arm dood looks like Shatner.

If your daughter can waive a chicken over my busted ankle and it will feel better let me know I'm willing to try anything now to make it feel better after 13 years of pain and swelling.

Stay out of the gym so homo
HME

climber
Los Angeles
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:01am PT
Healing up!
Healing up!
Credit: HME
Silver

Gym climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:09am PT
Oh sh#t man my bad you are not the one in the pasely dress.
My bad.
External fixator unit eeeeegads man.

T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:11am PT
Ho Man,
ya got some passive pro stickin out yer left leg.
Feel better and heal well John.
Tad
PS, lookin forward to the Slip Report
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:25am PT
And you thought that mtn uni thing was rad!!!!!!!!!!
Heal up well and soon, John.
Ho man.......
TY
sullly

Trad climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:28am PT
Wishing you one fast recovery.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:36am PT
Well John, I was hoping this was a troll, but that last photo is pretty convincing.

After that whole Oliver Moon thing I'm never sure....


My guess is you've got the best docs, and I hope you're back at it with minimal pain, asap.


TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:43am PT
Heal up JL!! I dig the gunboat biceps ripping through that hospital smock.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:48am PT
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:48am PT
Hang in there, John...you'll be back at it in no time!

Prayers for full and quick recovery!!!



DOH!!!!!!!!!

photo not found
Missing photo ID#194825
locker

Social climber
D#@&%ebag Central
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:49am PT


ROFL!!!...

Captain...or Skully

Perfect!!!...

BillL

Trad climber
NM
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:56am PT
Adding to the list of helpful distractions ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4B36Lr0Unp4
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:01am PT
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:07am PT
That sucks breaking an ankle...Shouldn't these gyms have thick cushioning at the bottom of the routes...?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:13am PT
John! WTF!

Heal up well!
WBraun

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:15am PT
Grim ......

There's danger at every step.

There will be a new Gym design.

The floor will rise as you move up.

There will be no more danger.

It will become the brave new world inside?

Heal up John ........
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:18am PT
obviously we need air bags installed in those gyms.. I mean they are there to present a SAFE alternative dang it!
Powder

Trad climber
SF Bay Area
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:24am PT
Heal up & wish you a full recovery!!


TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:27am PT

OWWWWW!

You'll be "speed Crutchin" in no time though I'll bet.
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:30am PT
If they would just install the walls on pontoons floating on top of a pool, falls would be a lot less dangerous.





Apparently they do.



Kit does not include woman instructor.

Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:35am PT
One of the worst breaks I'm aware of was a guy at the gym...bouldering. He fell and his foot caught behinds a big hold a few feet off the wall.

Snap.

Bone.

Blood.

Ambulance.

Cleared the gym out instantly.

Heal up fast JL. Super grim.
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:35am PT
in our gym there are pads that you move under a boulder. When I fell I missed the pad. The flor I lended on is quite soft. In my life I had many falls, sometimes from much higher with landings on uneven and hard ground. I was much younger back then. Off balance landing is a big factor too.

The doc told me I will probably be not able to climb again. But, not being able to climb is not an option for me. I red many posts from people returning to climbing after really bad injures. People like Disaster Master are my inspiration.

I am sure Largo will be back too.

Lesson: don't fall, especialy if you are old!
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:44am PT
Best wishes for a fast recovery. Let that photo not be the last image we have of Mr. Long.
nita

Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:45am PT

Yowza, just saw the picture..ouch..)-;

I hope you are not in the hospital tooo long, Long.

Wishing you a quick full recovery...with visits from your beautiful daughters and many friends.

Salud...
nita
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:46am PT
I wonder how the floor fared....
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:50am PT
John!
Climbing wasn't suppose to get more dangerous as we got older.
From what I can tell from your hospital room picture, that looks like a nasty break. Can't see the PCA pump in the photo. Hopefully your nurses are keeping your pain well under control.
Lordy, man: I wish there was something I could do to help.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:52am PT
I hope that picture doesn't mean you had to have surgery, but if you did, I hope it fixed everything up and you're on your way back to 100%.

Indulge in the kindness of others for a while and be good to yourself while you heal. :-)
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
John,
Hope you are back up and moving around with all your previous gusto as soon as possible!
Chappy
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
I mourn Longs longing for relief in longstanding agony.

Best wishes for a perfect mend before long.


Jennie Long
BillL

Trad climber
NM
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
The recovery involved / involves surgery (based on some photo details).
all in jim

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
This is "The Only Blasphemy".

Heal up fast, John!
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
I guess we could say the mighty have fallen.

Best wishes for speedy recovery.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
Oh Boy....ouch....


Susan
Kenygl

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Dec 1, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
No one is immune. Heal quickly Largo.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 1, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
The doc told me I will probably be not able to climb again.

Moosedrool, what was your specific injury?
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Dec 1, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
My heel got crushed. They put a bunch of screws and a bone from some dead dude (graft). If they got it right I may have a chance :)
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Dec 1, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
I know you're into subjective experience, but isn't this carrying it a little too far?
Screw the insights, just go for the good drugs and get better soon!







Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
where's the machine that goes... PING!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
I just answered Stzzo's question...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
i would imagine that gym will paint a spot on the floor,,,

in honor of the taking out of a great..Perhaps a little "human body" outline in white over a red circular background with "J Long 012"....


Its the LEAST they could do!



Heal fast and Well LARGO! Sure it isnt yur first pik-a-nic...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
Any news on the extent of the injuries and prognosis? Heal fast John!
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
Largo, you should of spent more time outdoors learning the basics in relative safety before you ventured indoors to the real world of plastic.




BTW, whats the story?
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:26pm PT

DOH!!!



:)






Heal up fast, John
Gene

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
Looking on the brighter side, this temporary setback may give John enough time to finish his new book:




The Plasticmasters: California Gym Climbers in the 2010s

Heal up fast and well, Largo!

g
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
From Stonemaster to Boneplaster......

:)

Wishing you well, Largo........post up some pics of yourself and all the hot nurses!
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Dec 1, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
Bummer John,
I was hoping this was posted by a troll at his/her worst.
It sounds like you have good folks around you and an obvious strong support system (if needed) in 'the community'.
Get well soon!

rrider

climber
Mckinleyville, Ca
Dec 1, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
Bum Deal, Man...

Maybe contact this woman when you're ready to train back up. (warning: maybe turn off the soundtrack if you watch this)

http://youtu.be/uO_jfEk-adw
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Dec 1, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
Get better.

I broke my nose once by tripping on a shoelace. I broke my big toe while drunkenly stumbling back to my tent.

You might get whacked walking across the street.

So don't take no crap about getting hurt in a gym.

I'll pray for ya.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 1, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
rrider, That powerhouse of a woman is the perfect big-wall designated pig-hauler!

She looks as if she could deck Largo (or any of us) with not much effort.

Sheesh, only seventeen?

m.

Trad climber
UT
Dec 1, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
Dear Largo, I'm so sorry to hear about your accident. If our fond wishes could make you well, you'd be walking out of there today. Love!
maria.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 1, 2012 - 04:14pm PT


photo not found
Missing photo ID#276466
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 1, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
From sympathy to parody in 24 hours. Sheesh!

Get well soon, Largo!
BillL

Trad climber
NM
Dec 1, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
From sympathy to parody in 24 hours.
Heh - really, it is a small step for all of us regardless of our stature in the climbing community. :-)

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106857668
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 1, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
Since this happened in LA, I wonder if it registered on the Richter???

That's a LARGO impact!
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
Well, it does look like he's had a few too many Oreo shakes.

I went through my 60th birthday this year with a blown Achilles - that sure made me feel old but all is well now and I'm ready to kick ass again - I wish the same comeback to you Largo!
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
so sorry John get well soon!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
Cosmic,, thats what the spotter looked like!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
^LOL!!!!!
locker

Social climber
D#@&%ebag Central
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:28pm PT


Cosmic...

ROFL!!!...


...


Now THAT's funny as hell!!!...

zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:36pm PT

OR

Trad climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
Oh bummer. One of my heros. Largo will heal up quick i'm sure. I gotta be honest though...I hold that guy fully responsible for 25+++ years of climbing addiction. It was his early vids I watched that put me onto the whole climbing thing and soon had me living under a dirty rock in some place called Camp 4 for a couple of seasons. Heal up Sir.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
John, gonna bury the hatchet with Go-Bee and Blueblocker and hold some prayer sessions for ya.

Modern medicine is great. They charge you fifty bucks for every one of those paper pillow covers. A dude comes for your sponge bath. You get so constipated from the opiates that they time your bowel movements. When the threat of the enema grows strong, go sit on that toilet or bed pan for an hour to sh#t out a series of peas. Like Milk Duds.

No way am I ever gonna deface my pride by getting a f*#king enema.

Morpheine is about the cheapest drug on the planet. A big vial costs 10 bucks or something. Use it liberally, and if you can steal some, send it to me. For proper and legal disposal, of course.
locker

Social climber
D#@&%ebag Central
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:56pm PT


Once more I am laughing my ass off...

"go sit on that toilet or bed pan for an hour to sh#t out a series of peas. Like Milk Duds."...

That is classic good stuff right there man!!!...

LOL!!!...
Naitch

climber
Seneca area
Dec 1, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
So sorry about your injury. Hope the healing and rehab goes well.

On the bright side you must be getting some good drugs so while you're mainlining, just plug in, zone out and listen to Floyd's Atom Heart Mother.
Mark Rodell

Trad climber
Bangkok
Dec 1, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
John, Sorry this happened to you. I wish you a full recovery.
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Dec 1, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
John,
I figure you'll have time to follow this thread...
I did a couple of laps on Hummingbird in the rain today and was thinking about your knarly Mono exploits on the steepest sections.
I think unless you've seen it with your own eyes, it's hard to comprehend the level of talent it takes to manage off-road on one wheel. I work my ass off trying to stay vertical on two !

I know it is especially hard on athletes to be side-lined by such injuries and I hope you have a speedy, full recovery.

Credit: pud

dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
Pud/John, where is that trail? Turn me on!
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
Sorry to hear the bad news John

Heal up quick.

Wes
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
Here is where John hit the deck. Rockreation may need a rebuild. Not to mention Los Angeles.






Thanks Crimpie for the idea!
edit:....Oops, maybe it was Cragman!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
^That's classic, Dave!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
Largo is a StoneMaster Hardman.
He will be back Climbing faster than anyone
suspects!!


photo not found
Missing photo ID#276494
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
Dave,
Hummingbird is an incredible wicked downhill. Technical switchbacks and faaaaast and long sweepers. Lot's of steep, technical sandstone too.

It's located in the foothills of Simi Valley/North San Fernando Valley.
118N Exit/park at Rocky Peak Road. Ride up the steep dirt road about a mile. You'll see the sign/bench at the trailhead.
Next time you're out this way give me a call and I'll join you on it.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
Thanks Pud I will, and thanks every one, Cosmic...dude, you rule! and Bob Bolton...you started it! Cragman, yur' pretty interesting for a Christian! I take back some of my stereotypes.

Humor makes the world go around.


John, I know you can handle it!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
John, go back to ski jumping....much safer and you had it dialed.....


































photo not found
Missing photo ID#193831
John M

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
I should have known that there would be some good humor on this thread.

I hope that you heal soon John
go-B

climber
Hebrews 1:3
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
Largo is making progress, here's his new wheelchair...
photo not found
Missing photo ID#276499
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
I'm with m.

lynne
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
I'm really sad this happened to you, John. But I know you will recover quickly with all your physical and mental gifts intact.

-JelloDon'tBounceSoWell
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
Wulp, since I first met John Long out at Stoney circa 1980, I have read about him doing the impossible time and time again... and I guess he did it again. ;) Get well, soon John! :)

Lesson: don't fall, especialy if you are old!

You got that right! They don't even repair us at our age! Ain't got that much longer, not worth it! They just give us more advil and tell us to deal! lol My doc says don't worry about all that pain and stiffness, you just have an ibuprofen deficiency. haha

Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
Largo isn't the only one.
A lot of us OLD climbers
SUFFER from the
debilitating disese,
Gravititus Inflammitus!
Double D

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
Largo... you keep telling me that "it ain't the shoes" but seriously you might want to reconsider your position...

Best wishes for a complete recovery and soon bro.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
I remember struggling with the impossibility of tying my shoes with a broken right arm in a cast and a broken left hand in a splint at JT in 1980.The remedy came in the form of Mr. Long from a neighboring campsite;a random act of kindness i have not forgotten.Heal well old man.Perhaps you can make the best of it and exercise your considerable talent to get your literary projects done while the honing of the body is postponed.









zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
Don't know if there's an election for "DA Man", but if there is I got a good idea of who is getting mine.

nita

Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
Mr Long, i hope you are resting easy tonight and pain free.. I accidentally looked at your picture again....double ouch.


Rich S.... You were pretty banged-up from your Joshua Tree fall.... and
You may have been able to tie your own shoes, if not for the fact.. that you
snuck out of the hospital early... I was so shocked to see you back in camp with a messed up face and body....hairball.



Hey Miss Jennie, if you Married -John Long, you would be ...
Jennie Long Long. or..Jennie Two Long...

rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
Well Nita, it really wasn't a matter of sneaking out, rather it was because i was a broke dirtbag climber unable to afford the care. I remember hitchhiking into Yucca Valley for groceries with you, i remember you as a compassionate young woman with a genuinely good heart. You have not changed in that regard.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
hey there say, john...

would like to send you a small get well gift, and card...
please, when you FEEL better, and are home...
send an email, ...

god blesss....
sorry to see how awful the leg looks, but
still very glad that nothing worse happened...

:)
Daphne

Trad climber
Black Rock City
Dec 2, 2012 - 12:00am PT
Sending good vibes and healing prayers for a complication-free and straightforward healing process.
D.Eubanks

climber
Dec 2, 2012 - 01:47am PT
Hope you have a speedy recovery John.

Dana
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Dec 2, 2012 - 01:47am PT
Credit: pyro
here is the slab down in malibu cyn. when u heal up join us for a slab party!
get well.
ryan
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Dec 2, 2012 - 03:15am PT
Wow, it really CAN happen to the best of us.

Sending positive vibes and hoping you heal up soon.

-The Fet
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Dec 2, 2012 - 11:10am PT
Hey, Johnny.

Probably not the drugs of first choice, but enjoy them if you can! Another example to add to the growing body of knowledge that gyms are the places where old people go to die. Zone or break bone.

Robs.
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Dec 2, 2012 - 11:15am PT
Wishing you a swift and complete recovery, John.
10b4me

Boulder climber
member since 2002
Dec 2, 2012 - 11:57am PT

FALL ON PLASTIC - DRIVEN INDOORS BY INCLEMENT WEATHER - NO HARD HAT

Hahaha!
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Dec 2, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
largo is one of our most astute investigators of climbing accidents, and i'm eagerly awaiting his analysis of what happened. i know he's kinda encumbered by that body cast, but i'm sure he can type with his nose. meanwhile i'm rifling through JL climbing books, looking for the chapter on rugosities.

rockreation is one dangerous place. my worse climbing injury occured there while putting on my moccasims. i'm not joking about that. those shoes have a "slingshot" heel, i was eager to get started climbing that day, and as i carelessly pulled on the heel, the elastic somehow snapped the index and middle fingers of my right hand sideways. i didn't think much of it until i got on a climb which involved underclinging, and the knuckle joints of those fingers bent over the wrong way. whooooa! the (kaiser) doc said that reattachment surgery was not recommended for such "minor" injuries, so now i get to look at two bent fingers for the rest of my life.

largo has been telling people he stopped climbing three years ago. he'll never stop, and neither will i. looking forward to seeing him out there again sometime soon, as i did at rockreation just a couple weeks ago. he's always an inspiration.
locker

Social climber
D#@&%ebag Central
Dec 2, 2012 - 12:37pm PT

So much chatter about the GYM being dangerous and an issue...

LOL!!!...

The gym has ZERO to do with it...

Apparently he simply lost his grip and decked...

Oh yeah!!!...

I forgot...

That can only happen in a GYM...


RIGHT!!!...



EDITED:

Actually probably BETTER that it did occur in a gym...

Better chance of a safer landing minus ROCKS below...



Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 2, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
What hospital and how long is the stay?...thanks...
Grampa

climber
from SoCal
Dec 2, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
Wishing you a speedy and full recovery. Al
steve shea

climber
Dec 2, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
John, just saw this. Heal fast. At the age of 65, I trenched while exceeding the given velocity at my local ski area, JH. The skis stopped immediately and I kept going at about 30 deg off center. Alpine bindings do not release well in that attitude but bones do. I broke the tibia in three places and the fibula in two. Sort of lower leg puree. Pretty messy. One surgery and six months non weight bearing with a year of rehab did the trick. Other than looking at my leg, I would not know it happened. I'd say 95% healed. I went into the long, bad bivy mode. You will crush it. All the best, SS
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 2, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
Word has it he tripped over an autograph-seeking noob.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Dec 2, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
I'm loopy but one thing is clear - there's a lot of love in the climbingg world, and I must be getting the bulk of it over the last few days. I am embarrassed to have raised others on this site only to have them wish me good cheer. Thanks to all, from the bottom of my heart. You are my heros.

Sincerely,
John Long
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 2, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
I heard some hottie asked him to sign her BOOBS, which made him loose concentration thus falling off the climb.


Could happen to anybody...



And HEAL UP LARGO! Get LARGO-FIED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 2, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
Thanks for posting, John....heal well!

BTW, which facility are ya in? Thought we'd drop in....
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Dec 2, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
Happy to see John post. Take care.
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Dec 2, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
Yes, consciousness is always a good sign!
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Dec 2, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
When I was 14, I was bouldering Pratt's Overhang on Flagstaff, and
it was dark. My spotter Larry Dalke saw me stand up onto that
highest hold and give a sigh where I knew I had made it. He
walked away, and the next thing I knew the moon was spinning around,
and I was lying flat on my back and gazing up at the stars.
That's a horrid feeling. I couldn't breathe. I wanted to
say, "Nice catch," but could only make some sort of gasping grunt.
He pushed on my chest, some totally untrained instinctual attempt
at artificial respiration, and then I got my air back, stood up,
and we started laughing. The next day, I woke up and couldn't move
my right wrist. I cracked a bone in it. They put it in a cast and
said not to climb for four weeks or more. The next day I was
in Eldorado hammering pitons with my left hand. We're pretty
resilient when we're young. An ankle is another matter, if you can't
walk. But I can imagine an overhang John could play on, with only
a wild swing in his harness, out in space... Not to climb for a few
weeks is no big deal, though, when you've done as much as John
has. People sometimes ask me why I'm not always out there on the
rock, or some such. They don't realize that decades ago I did
every climb I ever wanted to twice over. Just to walk below
the walls now is a great pleasure, to look up and remember.
We have our nostalgia. It's almost silly, though, to
say "Heal up fast, John," when we know his spirit. That's just a
given. Not much is going to slow the man down for very long. I will say,
though, that climbers have more accidents in "safe" places than in
situations of real seriousness. Huntley Ingalls stepped out the
door of the Sink one night and broke his ankle. Jim Erickson
recently broke his ankle doing something silly. Was it John Glenn
who was first to orbit the earth and then seriously hurt his
back in a fall in the bathtub?
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Dec 2, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
This thread is useless without photos. Some portraits of the climber as a young man.

Credit: Rick A
Credit: Rick A
Credit: Rick A

The "slanting rugosity" reference above is from John's classic story about soloing with Bachar, "The Only Blasphemy." John has published a number of versions over the years and my paraphrase of it above was from the first version in Ken Wilson's anthology, Mirrors in the Cliffs. Got this quote from a later version on the web.

He wastes no time, and scores of milling climbers freeze when he starts. He moves precisely, plugging his fingertips into shallow pockets on the 105-degree wall. I scrutinize his moves, taking mental notes on the sequence. He pauses at 50 feet, directly beneath the crux bulge. Splaying his left foot onto a slanting rugosity, he pinches a tiny rock wafer and pulls through to a gigantic bucket hold. He walks up the last 100 feet, which is only dead vertical. From the summit, Bacher flashes down a smile, awaiting my reply.

... Fifty feet passes quickly. Then, as I splay my left foot up onto the slanting rugosity, the chilling realization comes that, in my haste, I have bungled the sequence, that my hands are too low on that puny wafer that I'm pinching with waning power. My foot is vibrating and I'm desperate, wondering if and when my body will seize and plummet. A montage of black images floods my brain.


Whenever anyone tells me about wanting to solo a climb, I tell them to read this story first. It should be mandatory for any soloist or would be soloist.





bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 2, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
Jesus you Stonemasters were something else. Thanks for showing those of us who showed up a couple years later the method and the madness.

Oh yeah, heal up John. Speaking as one who has been busted to pieces numerous times over the last 40 years, modern medicine is the ticket! You'll be crushing in no time.

PS: If you decide you don't want your pain meds, PM me. Just sayin'.

EDIT: That Roubidoux shot is the sh#t. Great man airing it out on a great problem.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 2, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
Largo painting the fascia on his house.....

photo not found
Missing photo ID#194828
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 2, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
Breaking NEWS...




































































Largo Spotted at June Lake!!!

photo not found
Missing photo ID#276562
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Dec 2, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
Good to hear from you John.Best wishes for a quick and proper healing.Positivity is about the most important part of healing so I'm sure you'll be up and at again soon enough.Positive vibes comin' from this direction.
Cole

Trad climber
los angeles
Dec 2, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
So sorry to hear this. Like Coz though, I'm very glad it wasn't something more catastrophic.

Pulled this book out this morning and read a story, boy I wish I could write like that! Heal up soon.

Credit: Cole
locker

Social climber
D#@&%ebag Central
Dec 2, 2012 - 02:54pm PT

Cosmic, yer KILLING me over here dude!!!...

LOL!!!...




EDITED:

LOL!!!...

Dean, did you do the manipluating on that shot???...

It too is HILARIOUS!!!...

LOL!!!...

Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 2, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
No Locker...found it on the Net....
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Dec 2, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
Glad you liked the Rubidoux shot, Riley and BVB. Can you imagine doing that thing in red PAs?

Someone in a different thread was talking about how precise you had to be to edge with them; if you didn't place them exactly, the hard rubber would skate off in a nanosecond. Even thinking about rocking onto that big hold at the top with those red skates on your feet gives me the willies.
locker

Social climber
D#@&%ebag Central
Dec 2, 2012 - 03:02pm PT


Great shot!!!...

....

Get's a huge, YIKES from me...

Talk about putting it out there...
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 2, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
He was actually doing some tree trimming....

photo not found
Missing photo ID#276565
locker

Social climber
D#@&%ebag Central
Dec 2, 2012 - 03:07pm PT


^^^

ROFL!!!...
10b4me

Boulder climber
u.s. 395
Dec 2, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
Cosmic, yer KILLING me over here dude!!!...

I agree, that pic is funnier than hell
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 2, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
"Cosmic, yer KILLING me over here dude!!!..."






I, AM, going to KILL you if you don't answer my LAST email I sent you!

:)
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 2, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
John, thanks for being such a great sport....laughter truly IS the best medicine!

Cheers!
rbolton

Social climber
The home for...
Dec 2, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
"Ho, man...We didn't have NOTHIN' like this in Borneo!"
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 2, 2012 - 05:13pm PT

"He said he was pinching a puny wafer with maximum might when his foot, which was splayed out on a slanting rugosity, slipped. "









Thank GOODNESS it wasn't,

A LOAF!

:)








I sure wish my photoshop skilz were good enuf to
Illustrate that!


but then...
luggi

Trad climber
from the backseat of Jake& Elwood Blues car
Dec 2, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
John...I hope you heal quickly and do help that along I attached videos that answer questions that I know you have been wondering about.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AKvRvL5r3A
luggi

Trad climber
from the backseat of Jake& Elwood Blues car
Dec 2, 2012 - 05:17pm PT
john hope you heal up quick!!! in the mean time I have attached some educational videos hopefully will make you smile....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8M4i6_KbDs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MK0ITXBWpHE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AKvRvL5r3A
http://www.yourepeat.com/watch/?v=k16qOeZoEbk&feature=youtube_gdata
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Dec 2, 2012 - 05:25pm PT
John Rawnsley - Largo al factotum - Il barbiere di Siviglia



Forfun - Largo dos Leões (Clipe Oficial)
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Dec 2, 2012 - 06:20pm PT

John, it is clear that MANY folks car for you and wishing you will. This bumps in the road of our lives, let us know just how many people admire you.
All the best to you and family as you mend.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 2, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
Riley,, dont be an idget-- PAs SUCKED! ;-) The Super Grattons were soooo much bettah...
locker

Social climber
D#@&%ebag Central
Dec 2, 2012 - 06:43pm PT


""He said he was pinching a puny wafer with maximum might when his foot, which was splayed out on a slanting rugosity, slipped. "

Thank GOODNESS it wasn't,

A LOAF!

:)

I sure wish my photoshop skilz were good enuf to
Illustrate that!


but then..."
...










Not to worry Cosmic...


I, "got your back!!!"...
















































HOPEFULLY THIS WON'T GET ME BOOTED...





















































...


moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Dec 2, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
Hey Largo, look what I got:

photo not found
Missing photo ID#276588
Scott McNamara

climber
Tucson, Arizona
Dec 2, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
Heal and recover, John.

Teach us how to do it.
jstan

climber
Dec 2, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
We all want the best for Largo. Not a question.

Do we all want the best for ourselves?

If we do we might consider the possibility older bone breaks easily.

And once broken they heal less and less perfectly.

Listen to Darwin.

Once past the age one is reproducing. nature has already crossed you off her list.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 2, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
Past the age to reproduce? There's fertile matter in them old balls yet!

And in that brain!

He'll hatch kids like Zeus, fully sprung from his forehead.
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Dec 2, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
If we do we might consider the possibility older bone breaks easily.
I hear you ... One should only fall on young spotters.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 2, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
Jstan, didn't Picasso father a child when he was in his 80's?

It's not the years, babe. It's the mileage.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 2, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
Man, this really sucks.

Heal up quick Largo!

Rob
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Dec 2, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
JL,

Your life of climbing and writing has been an inspiration to all of us in the climbing community.

Wishing you a good and full recovery.

Heal up fast and well my friend.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 2, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
I'd like to welcome Largo to the gimp-honored tradition of posting too much on Supertopo while injured.

I know you can't start quite yet but the curve of your posting frequency could be the trajectory of your recovery, increasing as you get out of trauma mode and decreasing as you get back on your feet again. Perhaps a perfect opportunity for a writing a work of literature.

My suggestion:

Larger than life tales from back in the Day

You know, stuff like that guy dating a curry chick whose mom was a curry executive but was forced to take a dump on her carpet on a newspaper just as her mom got home. Climbing stories too, as only you can tell them

Folks would love it, and it'd be more fun to write than a gear book. You can collect some whoppers from your friends and on supertopo as well so only the cream of the sh#t gets published

Wishing you magic

peace

Karl
WBraun

climber
Dec 2, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
Largo will not be posting any stupid nonsense here anytime soon.

You will not see him here at all.

He will go into deep transcendental state free from all duality.

He will float into the no thing (where ever that is) and disappear until fully healed.

Then he will awaken to expound stuff to us trapped in the "thing" world ( whatever the fuk that is).

Ho man ........

Quack



dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 2, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
John, if you are looking for entertainment check this out.
They are getting too much play but love 'em.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7yCLn-O-Y0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvCBSSwgtg4

This is a little longer. And not a song. My latest work.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=840028
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Dec 2, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
Werner-^^That is priceless!!^^
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 2, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
QUack quack quack.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 2, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
Largo spotting at Moosedrool's house!


























































photo not found
Missing photo ID#276609
Michelle

Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Dec 2, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
Holy crap, is that an airplane crash fatty hanging out of his mouth in that first pic?


rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 2, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Do we all want the best for ourselves? If we do we might consider the possibility older bone breaks easily. And once broken they heal less and less perfectly. Listen to Darwin.

Being, as some of us are, past the age of reproduction (which is to say, given recent research, that reproduction may be possible but not advisable), we are also out of the range of natural selection. Those of us who have been fertile have already set our progeny in motion, hence our contribution to the survival or elimination of the species has already been made.

Our communal propensity to shred tendons, bones, and soft tissue, presently so ably represented by our friend Largo (may he recover fully and quickly), suggests we may have done the species little good, although we can always hope the genes that continually land us in the operating room have either not been passed on or else have mutated into something more socially and societally beneficial and less suited to depleting the remaining tatters of the medicaid budget.

All this means that we and our brittling bones are free from future Darwinian constraints, and can replace the potentially consequential reckless abandon of our youthful adventures with the inconsequential reckless abandon of old age, realizing, of course, that diminished capacities will challenge us to extract catastrophes from ever more mundane circumstances.

And so I say, pay Darwin no heed. Ex (cough, cough) celsior!
Dick Erb

climber
June Lake, CA
Dec 2, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
Hey John, hang in there. You've got a long road ahead. I've been on it over nine months now. It's not all bad and it gets better.

Thank you so much for all the inspired writing you have done. Even as you lie there doped up in bed you are inspiring people. Here's a paragraph of yours I love.
I first went to Yosemite Valley when I was seventeen years old, and continued to spend every summer there until I was twenty-five. The first thing I remember of the place was the Camp 4 parking lot, an oily acre crammed with the proudest medley of rust buckets imaginable. Among the really prime rigs was an ancient British step van that must have been parked on the street during the blitzkrieg; an old, dented, salt-pocked Cadillac, now a convertible thanks to a cutting torch; and a red VW van, broadsided, t-boned, rear- ended, and rolled, not a window in it, vice grips where the steering wheel should have been. Few of these ran without priming and a push start. There wasn't a treaded tire in the whole lot, and a live battery got passed back and forth like a gold brick. The license plates were from Canada, Colorado, California, New York -- most of these junkers having been babied down the road with little chance of ever reaching Yosemite, and no chance of ever leaving it.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Dec 2, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
John,
Did you not use at least three equalized and bomber pieces? A couple of extra SLCD's or nuts just may have been prudent, yeah?

Heal up friend and use it to get real fit; take it to a new level and give us a real comeback!

Arne
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 3, 2012 - 01:19am PT
Ding ? I think WB is older then you. Snicker.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 3, 2012 - 11:29am PT
Heal it up right John.
locker

Social climber
D#@&%ebag Central
Dec 3, 2012 - 11:30am PT

I actually advise to heal it up left...

CalicoJack

climber
CA
Dec 3, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
Best wishes from one of the many who have never met you, but have benefited greatly from your words. Hope the path to a full recovery is fast!

Andy
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
OR
Dec 3, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
John, Ouch sympathies go to you reluctantly as it seems unbelievable what happened. Did the spotters fan out as usual? Pathetic! Nevertheless, this convalescence period will be a good time to practice your knots.
What is with all the demands for new copy but no mention of bucks? Don't waste your time writing. Your fans are never satisfied. And what would you write, "Diary of a mad Unicyclist?" "Will loan you a metolius hangboard that could mount over your bed. ooops you already have one! December=training! Speaking of training, I'd like to invite all the staff nurses to room Largo for a pajama party. Turn up the music and Heal Well, Friend! - Bruce
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Dec 3, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
Hey Largo I know I don't need to tell you but PT is everything when it comes to recovery. It took me many years to get my ankle strong again after a triple-break back in the mid-2000s. I did not rigorously follow my PT and I paid for it... in time shares.

Recover well.

DMT
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Dec 3, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
Oh, this is a tib-fib break? I did that when I was a kid jumping off a fence. They even gave me a walking cast without crutches. I'll bet you didn't scream out like a nancy when you put weight on it and you buckled to the ground like I did! I think I was 11.

Cosmic, that first How To Climb cover was the best. It still makes me laugh until my stomach hurts, and lately I've been needing some of that!

Heal up of course and keep from being bored during that time!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 3, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
Stich;
I heard Largo is putting a Briggs and Stratton engine on his Unicycle
so He can ride it while in his Body Cast!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 3, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
So for the time being he'll be a uniped on a unicycle?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 3, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
^^^^^^^

OMG that thing would spin like a top...

rofl



Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 3, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
What's unique to this thread, unlike a million other accident threads of ST, is that we have no real information on what happened so we can't go on saying what should have happened in hindsight, and blame various acts or people for the incident, only to be found wrong when the actual details some out.

Very sly, having this all so secret. I mean gyms are supposed to be idiot proof, but since we're confident Largo is not an Idiot, apparently the safety measure weren't designed to protect him

;-)

karl
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 3, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
He outsmarted the safety measures.
cintune

climber
The Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Dec 3, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
It was the rugosity. They'll get ya every time.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 3, 2012 - 06:07pm PT
What's unique to this thread, unlike a million other accident threads of ST, is that we have no real information on what happened so we can't go on saying what should have happened in hindsight, and blame various acts or people for the incident, only to be found wrong when the actual details some out.

Very sly, having this all so secret. I mean gyms are supposed to be idiot proof, but since we're confident Largo is not an Idiot, apparently the safety measure weren't designed to protect him

;-)

karl


I actually like it that way ;). The upshot is he got hurt. I don't really care about the accident report unless it's some kind of novel way to go about hurting yourself. I know we always need to know to protect others, yadda yadda yadda, but sometimes that info is just used to decide whether or not we should feel sorry and learn, or call somebody a gumbie.
Gene

climber
Dec 3, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
The old honed Stonemaster John Largo
Slipped on plastic but didn’t very far go
Whilst pulling a wafer so mightily
with foot splayed wide on a rugosity
Ho Man! Does that ever hurt so.

locker

Social climber
D#@&%ebag Central
Dec 3, 2012 - 06:31pm PT

The details could derail the fun...

Maybe it's better not knowing...

LOL!!!...

MH2

climber
Dec 3, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
Good advice:



Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
Dec 3, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
It was the rugosity. They'll get ya every time.

That or maybe a hideous nubbin'!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 3, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
im stickin with my- distracted by the girl wanting her boobs signed theory..
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 3, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
go big with one wheel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojv8vIRvf6A
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Dec 3, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
I'm loopy but one thing is clear - there's a lot of love in the climbingg world, and I must be getting the bulk of it over the last few days. I am embarrassed to have raised others on this site only to have them wish me good cheer. Thanks to all, from the bottom of my heart. You are my heros.

Hey Largo,

When I broke my ankle up at Suicide in 1985, I'm sure glad you were there to help me out. If there's anything I can do to reciprocate, please let me know. At least that explains why I didn't see you out at Josh this weekend... Hope you heal up fast.

Curt
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Dec 3, 2012 - 09:15pm PT

reminds me of this:

“Debugging is twice as hard as writing the code in the first place. Therefore, if you write the code as cleverly as possible, you are, by definition, not smart enough to debug it.”

- Brian Kernighan
BillL

Trad climber
NM
Dec 3, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
Even if the fight is still "on" with that leg, people are incredibly resilient and John has many decades of experience with living.

...uh... with all due respect and more. ;-)

Bill
Park Rat

Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:21am PT
Dear John,

Dare I say that we all pine for you, no we long for you. We need to hear the your dear sweet voice. You are our master of the stone, our Sage, our guide to all the thrilling adventures of a misspent youth.

Hearing of your mighty fall, we can only say NO, say it ain't so. Not our pillar of stone, you who are one of the gods, the leader cannot fall, no never.

We mere mortals may fall, but not our dear John, we are so sad to know that you to may be only flesh and blood and not made of mighty granite.

We long to know that you will soon rise again, you are our master of stone, the keeper of our words, the hero of our youth, long may you reign.

So dear John we do long to hear from you.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:30am PT
^Park Rat wrote a Dear John letter.

:)
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:51am PT
Better than a John Deere letter.

Hardy har har. :)
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:00am PT
back when he had two legs to stand on, ;)
John Long on an early repeat of the Shield.
John Long on an early repeat of the Shield.
Credit: Mo
John, heal up fast and learn to love the pain meds when they are needed most.
R.H

climber
las vegas
Dec 4, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
Wishing you a speedy and painless recovery!

From Richard, Tina, & Lisa Harrison
shady

Trad climber
Dec 4, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
Dude, wait till you get some of those pity sticks under your arms. They're better than a half dozen puppys when women are around. Big, handsome and vulnerable goes a long way.
Milk it for all it's worth.

Heal fast, but not too fast.

P.S. Calcium and vitamin D. Good for dem bones.
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
b e s, John has a broken ankle, it would seem that you have, a brain injury, take your meds.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
P.S. Calcium and vitamin D. Good for dem bones.


One of my docs said it's good to have calcium and vitamin d... before you break your bones. He said it's what you have in reserve that counts, taking it while healing really doesn't come into play. He also cautioned against NSAIDS like ibuprofen, etc., they supposedly impact bone healing negatively.
covelocos

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
Good to know he was adhering to the "Safety third" rule.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
So it takes a man down to flush you out, Richard?

Whatever it takes, good to see you old friend!

Hope you're all well, and more of the same to JL
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
the one time i was at that gym i met largo working out there. dude, i hope you heal up ok, you are a hero to a lot of us. ss
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Dec 5, 2012 - 01:00am PT
I added my 2 cents to it and then re-posted this post that "Blueblocr" posted a couple weeks ago on the "religion" thread, but I thought it would also be relevant here. Probably what everyone already knows, but worth repeating...
Largo,
Your grace with the use of words is inspiring! I think it is great how you can elaborate so much on just one term. I can definitely read in your pens soul as being thoughtful, humble, patient, positive, provoking, mature and loving! Thank You! I can't wait for you to come over to the Lords side, You are surely to become a 21st-Century David!

Jus Thank'in!
BB

Very well said, and so true!

JL has always been that way. I haven't crossed paths with him since around '89/'90, but ever since I first met him at JT in the early 70's, he has always been the same.

This one afternoon I was having a difficult time on this popular boulder problem which was located near the entrance to Hidden Valley campground. It was the first time I had tried it, and after a half hour or so of flailing on it, I was about to give up. Suddenly Largo arrives with a couple of friends and he jumps out of the car and runs over and sends it in his tennis. Frustrated at how easy he made it look and by what little progress I had made on it, I give it one last all out effort. But I decide to try and mantle the crux crimp move, since I had zero success the obvious way. Somehow I pulled off the mantle, but that was as far as I got. I fell back to the ground, feeling pretty discouraged with myself.

But Largo changed all that in one sentence, "Wow, you just mantled that crimp, I've never seen anyone do that before, I know I couldn't!" And then off he went to rejoin his friends. I don't recall if I ever did get that boulder problem, but I never forgot those words of inspiration. They lifted me up and made me feel like I had just won the lottery or something. Like I was actually someone, not just a flailing n00b!

That was my first encounter with him, and it is just one example of what I came to recognize over the next few years as his everyday, honest and good natured self. Not so preoccupied with his own ego or reputation that he wasn't willing to lift someone else up at his own expense. I never forgot that first encounter, because it meant a way to much for me at the time to ever forget.

Thanks John, and please get well soon! Because there are a whole lot of noobs out here, young and old, that appreciate your presence a lot more than you will probably ever know!
Savannagirl

Mountain climber
Venice, ca
Dec 5, 2012 - 02:39am PT
You decked. so what? Sh#t happens. You were thinking about something else. This is not great, but it does happen. At least you were thinking . xxoo
Savannagirl

Mountain climber
Venice, ca
Dec 5, 2012 - 02:41am PT
OLD guy? may your tongue shrivel into ribbons. John Long is a young guy And awesome.

stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Dec 5, 2012 - 08:58am PT
OLD guy? may your tongue shrivel into ribbons. John Long is a young guy And awesome.

Tongue? I'm pretty sure Riley was using his fingers to type that...unless he was also mouthing the words as he hit the keys.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:47am PT
Update on John???
meLoco

climber
Las Vegas,Nevada
Dec 5, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
They say you can't keep a good man down. Here's hoping for a full recovery!
dave yerian

Trad climber
the parking lot
Dec 7, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
Care about you, John. Let me know if I can help out at all.

Best Wishes, Dave Yerian
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
Dec 7, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
I'm late to the game, but of course do want to wish you the best in as easy and smooth a rehab as possible. Very glad that the injury, bad as it is, is not as bad as it could have been.

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
Heal up fast, JL. My best wishes are with you!
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:07am PT
Thanks for all your stoke and inspiration John.
Heal swiftly,
Olaf
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:22am PT
Ankle tibia whatever. did they stick a nail in it yet? Didn't Kauk bust his tibia in a MC crash a while back and he's ok?

These surgeries are common and not expensive, you people flip out
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 8, 2012 - 07:28am PT
Yeah, Klaus, it ain't all universal healthcare and bergschrund in L.A., homie.

I racked up nearly 50k for trauma status and three days in the hospital with zero surgeries.

And that was without any bergschrund at all, duderhosen.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 10:03am PT
Klaus you are pitiably misinformed about the cost of US health care. I had my right knee replaced and in so doing was in hospital for two nights (2.5 days). Nothing special happened other than the installation of a titanium-and-nylon prosthetic and the immediate activities in recovery. The total bill was $168,000. Johno's bill will be spectacular. It will be higher than mine by quite a bit and will come in, measurable in pounds of paper.
JayMark

Social climber
Oxnard, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 10:07am PT
Here's an account I found on the web of a similar climbing injury.

http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/recovery

JEM
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 8, 2012 - 10:14am PT
Klaus works in the health care industry right? Those guys can never tell you what anything costs. You don't even know the ace bandage you're applying cost $40 right?

but then again, he's not known for his bedside manner unless he's getting in the bed too

martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Dec 8, 2012 - 10:22am PT
First time I met John was one night around 73 in camp 4. A group of us were messing around on some problems and John came up and challenged us to a tennis shoe bouldering contest, which he promptly won. Heal quick Largo.
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Dec 8, 2012 - 11:56am PT
$168,000.

Sheeit! Did they give you a guarantee?

Gimp

Trad climber
Grand Junction
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
Would not downplay this injury. Based the pattern of the fixator in the photo and what appears to be a Wound VAC hose coming from the medial side of the distal third of the tibia I would suspect this is an open (IIIB) pilon fracture of the tibia. Don't believe Kelly Cordes had an open component but you may want to look at his blog for the long rode to recovery from this type of injury even when it was closed.
As a long time weekender who has read many of his books and stores I am wishing John the best in his recovery.
Steve
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:30pm PT


"Sheeit! Did they give you a guarantee?"...

Probably not...

But I bet they'll give him the shaft...

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
Of course they gave him a guarantee.

It was the "light speed" guarantee; in a single second he could be $168K poorer!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
Good luck and a speedy healing John !



ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
Can I have your external fixators John. I'm making some wind chimes and need a few more to add to mine.

Heal quick bro!
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
Didn't Kauk bust his tibia in a MC crash a while back and he's ok?

This summer, Ron told me his leg has never been the same since the crash. There's no such thing as an okay broken bone that you come back from 100%. Always something a little funky afterwards.
Nick

climber
portland, Oregon
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
Could happen to anyone. Heal quick Largo!
Most health insurance policies have an "out of pocket" cap on payments. Somewhere in the $5000-10,000 range. This type of event, even to a master, is exactly why we need universal coverage. I almost started a health care rant, but this is not the time or place. Feel better John.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Dec 8, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
The early to mid 50s seems to be a perilous time for some climbers. I ripped my right biceps off the forearm at age 50 and was out for a year (gave up bouldering); Bachar, Whillans, Edlinger and others came to tragic ends, and D'Antonio suffered a heart attack. I'm sure there are other such stories. And now JL has come to grief. I hope his pain (physical and financial) is not too great. And, yes, someone please verify the validity of the fund raising site - I recently encountered the FBI-Moneypak virus, and, boy, did that announcement look official.

;>|
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
Thanks for all the support. I'l make it through this.

Any "fund" was done without my knowledge and while no doubt well-intended is not the way to go. Nobody just gives money to a slush pot for people to spend on hot rods and lap dances or whatever.
Such a plan if needed will be way later. But I appreciate the thought.

Great to have friends.

JL
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
Thanks for all the support. I'l make it through this.

Any "fund" was done without my knowledge and while no doubt well-intended is not the way to go. Nobody just gives money to a slush pot for people to spend on hot rods and lap dances or whatever.
Such a plan if needed will be way later. But I appreciate the thought.

Great to have friends.

JL
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
Praying for you, John.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
Glad to see that you are well enough to post John.
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:21pm PT


Probably not the coffee cups to get JL for Christmas...

...
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
^Cup O Rugosity!
Park Rat

Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
Hi John,

I'm so glad to see you posting, we're all pulling for you we know it's going to be a long haul, but you can count on a lot of support from this group.

All the best,

Susie
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
I can't believe you hit the floor...I mean..with the wings and all.......



















































photo not found
Missing photo ID#253495
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
Hey John,

Glad you're coming round.

So what are your injuries? And how did it happen?

We can't figure out how you decked in the gym, and we're tired of all of Riley's inferences. [well meaning though you are, Riley, it would be nice to know the facts]

How 'bout we hear it from the horse's mouth? How bout it, John?

Cheers,
Pete
Big Wall Parvenu
Bimollalular tib-fib fracture survivor with tons of screws and plates and shit
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:40pm PT
Ha ha! The phuck philter missed my sh#t above!
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:43pm PT

I thought someone already posted that he was pinching a waffer (not a loaf) and his grip gave...

Isn't that what happened or is it somehow more complicated???...

slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
Classy response largo--- heal up
jogill

climber
Colorado
Dec 8, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
When JB and JL came down to southern Colorado to visit me in the late 1970s and sat around the kitchen table, my wife later remarked "They were like young Greek Gods!"


Draw on that power, JL!


;>)
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
Dec 8, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
Nobody just gives money to a slush pot for people to spend on hot rods and lap dances or whatever.

So maybe that is still the meds talking but it seems that JL is saying something like "If I won the Lottery, the first things I'd spend it on..." hahahah

Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Dec 8, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
So maybe that is still the meds talking but it seems that JL is saying something like "If I won the Lottery, the first things I'd spend it on..." hahahah

Besides, what's wrong with hot rods or lap dances?

Curt
Brian

climber
California
Dec 8, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
John,

I've been getting updates through Erin and others. Hope things continues to improve as fast as possible and as well as possible given the circumstances. Be sure to reach out if there is anything folks can do. Not sure if I should text you or email or what, as I'm not sure what you've got access to. Let me know if I can bring anything over (books, company, whatever).

Hope Dean's "Largofest" fundraiser happens anyway. Great excuse for a party. If you need the funds for bills, I'm sure legions would be willing to chip in; and if you don't, well, it's a good reason for a party when you are out of the hospital and on the mend.

Brian
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Dec 9, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
$168,000


How to Rein In Health Care Costs


http://www.rockinst.org/pdf/health_care/2012-12-Rein_In_Costs.pdf
McP223

climber
Dec 9, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
Dear fellow climbers. John Long requested that we make a brief statement regarding his accident that occurred on 11/29/12 at approximately 8:30pm. John wanted us to confirm that he fell due to an unfinished knot, and suffered a compound fracture to the lower left leg. The rest of the details of the accident are John’s to tell.

Here is a direct quote from John, “Thank you to the Rockreation staff and members for keeping it together and not panicking in the face of a very scary situation. I consider it my best moment when I saw the gravity of the situation and was somehow able to keep it together and receive the support of the Rockreation Staff.”

On behalf of the Rockreation community, we want to wish our friend a speedy recovery, and let him know that we love him and are sending him good energy.

Here is a link to his full statement:

https://www.facebook.com/RockreationLA
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 9, 2012 - 04:30pm PT


Yikes...

"John wanted us to confirm that he fell due to an unfinished knot"...

covelocos

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Dec 9, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
Smoke pot, check yer knot...


edit... both.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 9, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
i once clipped an anchor set back and felt my harness part as is was just the velcro holding it.. I was lucky and snatched the anchors. Odds are tough to beat after so LONG..Wishing a rapid and stellar recovery!.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 9, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
John wanted us to confirm that he fell due to an unfinished knot, and suffered a compound fracture to the lower left leg.


We might have to revoke his double-knott spy status

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MWq6L19eNo

Heal up bro, it happens, or almost happens to everybody

I led the crux pitch on the Good Book once, and the pitch afterwards without my harness doubled back. It started getting loose when I was underclinging that big flake and looked down to see .....

Peace

Karl
vininja

Social climber
NJ
Dec 10, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
https://www.facebook.com/RockreationLA

Dear fellow climbers. John Long requested that we make a brief statement regarding his accident that occurred on 11/29/12 at approximately 8:30pm. John wanted us to confirm that he fell due to an unfinished knot, and suffered a compound fracture to the lower left leg. The rest of the details of the accident are John’s to tell.

Here is a direct quote from John, “Thank you to the Rockreation staff
and members for keeping it together and not panicking in the face of a very scary situation. I consider it my best moment when I saw the gravity of the situation and was somehow able to keep it together and receive the support of the Rockreation Staff.”


https://www.facebook.com/RockreationLA
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
A case of "do as I say, not as I do"?

Happens to the best of us...
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
I did that once at Josh.
I led "Sandbag" 10c (Real Hidden Valley)and got on top, sat down to belay Margy and noticed my knot in an unfinished state.
I was glad I made it!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
My close calls, bonehead manuevers, n00b-worthy clusterf*#ks, and profound errors in judgement are far too numerous to list. I've been fortunate to rack up no more than five or six months in the hospital over last 40 years due to climbing-related accidents. This does not include the four months I spent in a cast (1975) due to an ankle smasher I scored at Tahquitz in January.

There but by the grace, as they say.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
Another reminder that even the best of us can make mistakes.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 10, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
Another reminder that even the best of us can make mistakes.

Those who believe otherwise should look up "hubris". The fact of recovery remains and I wish him best of luck. Strange how long the events of one second can effect you.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:10am PT
I've done it too, not finishing the knot that is. Luckily I got away with it. Noticed it when I was clipping the first bolt on London Calling in Josh. By then you have a piece or two of gear in and you're setting up for the crux. As I pulled rope to clip the bolt I happened to look down and saw the unfinished knot. I held the crimp with one hand, finished the knot with the other, pulled the crux without thinking and then bailed and went hiking for the rest of the day. The fall would only have been fatal in a fluke, but serious injury on that rocky landing was assured. Lucky me.

Largo, Hoh Man!! Heal up well. How is the food there? You need good food. Reach out if it sucks, maybe we can put together something...
covelocos

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:10am PT
Oh, how the mighty have fallen...
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:15am PT
I decked from the last clip up under the roof at Solid Rock San Marcos. Went for the full on rope-in-mouth-double-grab-lunge-oh-shit and landed flat ass on my back.

Luckily I was 19 at the time, and bouncy. Those annoying as f*#k pebbles they have there really do disperse energy.
Jim Pettigrew

Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:30am PT
Get well John!
Compound fracture? Yikes!
Get well my friend!
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:00am PT
Forget about unfinished knot, I left the ground without any knot, the rope just draped through my swami belt. Fortunately, the rope slipped away before I had any occasion to weight it. Unfortunately, I had to solo the rest of the route. Fortunately, I was able to do that.

I started leaning back on an anchor and realized, in the nick of time, that I wasn't clipped to it.

I once slipped on a pebble near the edge of No Escape Buttress on Mt. Moran and ended up on the edge with one leg hanging over.

On an extremely run-out climb, I arrived at easier ground although with a groundfall prospect. There was protection available, but the terrain was easy and I so no reason to bother, considering what I had just managed. But then at the last minute I decided to place a piece anyway. I took a step up from there, a foothold broke, and I fell two feet onto the piece I almost hadn't placed.

That's four death/dismemberment/paraplegia episodes avoided by dumb luck in going on 56 years, or an average of one every fourteen years. I've never repeated any of those dumb mistakes, which qualifies me for the title of "very experienced." Ha! I prefer that honorific to the rather less dignified "very lucky."

Climbing can be reasonably safe as long as you manage to pay attention to all the details. However, gravity never sleeps, and most of us do nod off from time to time.

Be careful, don't ever get into the superior frame of mind that it can't happen to you, and help out if you can when a comrade falls, remembering that it might well have been you.
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:46am PT
Hey Miss Jennie, if you Married -John Long, you would be ...
Jennie Long Long. or..Jennie Two Long...



Jennie Two Long might have more euphony with my wee bit of Indian Ancestry, Nita… ha-ha-ha.

Sorry I didn’t see your post until now. I don’t think Largo and I are related…I think all Longs descendent via Great Britain are posterity of a Norman knight named John DeLong who came with William the Conqueror in the eleventh century.

I read somewhere than John’s ancestry was primarily from Ireland, though.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:56am PT
Just asked my wife...

"Hey, do you know who John Long is?"

She says:

"Porn Star??"

Pause...

"Oh, the guy who wrote those climbing books?"

Positive energy to you Largo.

From us.



locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 11, 2012 - 10:21am PT


Well to be totally honest...

I've done it at least TWICE that I can recall...(Not tie in completely, lead, then realize, "WTF???")...

I also recently caught a partner of mine making the same mistake...

It does indeed happen...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 11, 2012 - 11:21am PT
probably worth while to take the "unfinished knot" topic to another thread... eh?
BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
I used to work at Rockreation and I recall Largo was always getting busted for tying in with a bowline. Wonder what knot he was using at the time?
WBraun

climber
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
I recall Largo was always getting busted for tying in with a bowline.

WTF man.

I've used the bowline to tie in for over 30 years.

I'd tell that Jim Jones owner he's a stupid American ..... :-)
BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
For the record I have no problem with the bowline (when it's finished and backed up) and I sure as hell never told John what he should or should not tie in with. Obviously if you were distracted (by a pretty girl or a moment of deep insight for instance) you could forget to finish any knot....but....is it easier to unfinish a bowline?
Regardless- John I hope you get the best care possilble and heal back stronger than ever,
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Dec 11, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
I guess "unfinished" could mean 2 things:

1) The knot was not fully tied. It was an incomplete knot.

2) The last few inches of the rope were not terminated to a fisherman's knot or similar. This is probably more important for a bowline than a figure 8.

I was assuming 1) was the case here, though I could see a "loose" bowline that was "unfinished" causing a problem as well.

I use bowline for single pitch sport, basically so I can untie after repeated falls. I use a figure 8 for multipitch climbing, where I don't want the knot coming loose over time. Most of my partners do the same.

Manjusri

climber
Dec 11, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
I prefer the bowline tie-in to the eight for most climbing, but I've noticed a tendency for bowline users (myself included) to pull the line through the harness while chatting pre-climb and not tie the knot immediately. I don't see this as often with figure eights, perhaps because the pass through the harness occurs in between the tying of the two eights and stopping feels like more of an interruption. Once through the harness it's easy to think you are tied in.
Dave Kos

Trad climber
Temecula
Dec 11, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
probably worth while to take the "unfinished knot" topic to another thread... eh?

Good luck with that one...
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Dec 12, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
Sorry, to hear about your predicament, Largo. I try never to interrupt someone who is tying in. And typically check the climber I am belaying before they leave the ground.

Once you get the bill from the hospital, even with insurance, its going to be pricey.

I think this is a good reason for the annual bash at Todd Gordons; Todd willing. If not for a fundraiser but a celebration of us all making it this far.

I too have found myself at the top of a climb, leaning back to be lowered only to find my knot was only stuffed though my harness not even tied. Some lessons are cheaper than others!
knudeNoggin

climber
Falls Church, VA
Dec 12, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
I guess "unfinished" could mean 2 things:


But, for crying out loud, WHY ARE WE GUESSING?!

The conveyance of "information" via the Net is so
damn fast when unweighted by care in checking facts ... .

Already, there is another "bowline came untied" article fueling
lines of R&I, no doubt building some preponderance of evidence
after the fatal UK case, about which RGold & I tried to point
out that certain key bits of information --i.p., whether in fact
any actual >>knot<< was tied-- were unknown.

HERE, we have connection to the (thankfully, surviving) user;
how about actual-factual details,
vs. the usual this-appears-to-support-my-agenda spewing?

*kN*
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Dec 12, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
so John pulled a "lynn hill" accident. lynn hill famously wrote about her accicent on buffet froid at buoux, another unfinished knot. i've seen the results in a gym first hand, women lowering from forty five feet up, and at 30 feet the knot pulls through and she decks on the peat gravel. nothing broken, but bruised along the entire side on her body.

I teach, practice, and preach that knot tying should be a ritual where we disregard distractions and tie our knot from start to finish. get out the candles and incense here. do it from start to finish, every time, or untie your knot completely and deal with the distractions before tying the knot. ss

10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:20am PT
i've been ready to rap, only to notice that I only have one strand of cord through the atc. have been fortunate to correct that
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:39am PT
If climbers had any brains they would adopt aviation protocols -
maintain a sterile cockpit during critical flight phases and
USE THE f-ING CHECKLIST!
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:50am PT
If climbers had any brains they would adopt aviation protocols -
maintain a sterile cockpit during critical flight phases and
USE THE f-ING CHECKLIST

Some climbers do.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:53am PT
so John pulled a "lynn hill" accident.


I don't think that was lost on many of us, but it bears note. That is an amazing account on her part too.
knudeNoggin

climber
Falls Church, VA
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
so John pulled a "lynn hill" accident.
I don't think that was lost on many of us, but it bears note.

Rather, THAT detail remains unstated by either Largo or his agents.
"unfinished knot" is an awkward (or "political'? :-) way to say "untied".
A fig.8 eyeknot with the tail only taken the first step into re-weaving
is unfinished (and might hold some forces); a bowline doesn't offer
such a half-way stage, really.
And, as noted, the Rock&Ice statement has it that a bowline came untied
--which requires starting out *tied*.

Why are the facts so hard to get,
and so easily lived without?

*kN*
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
Long says that he ties in with a double bowline, but this time, distracted and tired after a long day of work, he didn't finish the knot. "I made the two bowline loops," he says, "and threaded the rope through my harness, but I didn't bring the rabbit out of the hole and around the tree."

Adds Long: "A lot of people are down on the bowline, but the same thing would have happened with a trace-8. I just wasn't paying attention."
WBraun

climber
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
John long is the consummate teacher who shows us the actual real world example of what happens when we do it not the way we're supposed to.

Not some sterile book writing, but the real thing, live and in person.

Ho man ....... :-)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
probably worth while to take the "unfinished knot" topic to another thread... eh?

Why?
knudeNoggin

climber
Falls Church, VA
Dec 14, 2012 - 12:02am PT
Long says that he ties in with a double bowline,
but this time, distracted and tired after a long day of work,
he didn't finish the knot. "I made the two bowline loops,"
he says, "and threaded the rope through my harness,
but I didn't bring the rabbit out of the hole and around the tree."

Adds Long: "A lot of people are down on the bowline,
but the same thing would have happened with a trace-8.
I just wasn't paying attention."

I'm quoting a quote above; and that quote comes from ... ?

Well, this seems to shoot a hole in the already-multiply-cited
R&Ice assertions about the cause,
but it's an odd-sounding story, IMO : making the double turns
and THEN reeving the line
--presumably one's holding these
don't-stay-formed-by-themselves-turns in one hand and,
so, having to reeve single-handedly (a plus to the bowline is,
after all, that one can form the entire knot AFTER making its eye)--

and then somehow letting loose of the first-formed part,
which is a sort of positive act, rather than the omission of one!?

Or did the *rabbit* make it around to poke its head out
of the double hole, AND THEN ... <distraction>?! At this
point, the corresponding fig.8 has just hope of an advantage,
as would a "water bowline" (that clove-hitch-based variant),
given enough tail pulled through.


*kN*
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Dec 14, 2012 - 12:15am PT
I teach, practice, and preach that knot tying should be a ritual where we disregard distractions and tie our knot from start to finish. get out the candles and incense here. do it from start to finish, every time, or untie your knot completely and deal with the distractions before tying the knot. ss

How many times do ppl have to deck before people learn that they will potentially die, that this becomes a 'religious ceremony' before they climb.

Check your knot before you launch!!!! And yer f*#king harness straps! F*#k!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 14, 2012 - 12:51am PT
The bottom line is the more you think about women when you climb the better your chances of screwing up no matter how good you my think you are.

Fixed that for ya Cozzie
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 14, 2012 - 01:24am PT
The bottom line is the more you think about women when you climb the better your chances of screwing up no matter how good you my think you are.

Does this apply to women as well?

Or is "you" just Coz?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 14, 2012 - 01:34am PT
No, it's a blatantly sexist comment with some truth to it and an attempt at humor.

Hey John, if you're reading this, I hope you're doing OK.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 14, 2012 - 01:47am PT
'Unfinished knot' scenario accidents have nothing whatsoever to do with figure eight vs. bowline.
WBraun

climber
Dec 14, 2012 - 01:48am PT
When your number is up, no matter how many times one checks or how diligent one is to protect themselves .....

Your number is up .......
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 14, 2012 - 02:00am PT
http://www.rockandice.com/news/2402-john-long-accident-update

Yes, well-known climbers sometimes make elementary mistakes, such as not tieing properly, or getting lowered off the end of the rope. Such as Scottish climber Dave MacLeod.

It turned out, the 6b+ slab was quite long and the rope I was using which wasn’t mine was a little short. As I got lowered off, the rope ran out about 6-8 feet above the small ledge at the start of the route proper. Neither of us noticed in time and so I plummeted, clipping the ledge with my foot and somersaulting down the turfy scrambling ground below, eventually coming to a violent stop wrapped around a birch tree on the slope below.

As I was flying head over heels I was wondering what the hell was going on! Normally I always take a long rope to the crag so rope length issues don’t arise and it hit me that the borrowed rope I was using must’ve been too short and the end had gone through the belay device. For a minute or two I thought I might have got away with it but very quickly my right foot started to get bigger and severely object to being weighted.

http://davemacleod.blogspot.ca/2012/10/end-of-line-for-short-while.html
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Dec 14, 2012 - 09:27am PT
John is a storyteller and will tell this tale too, in his own time. There's a lot still ahead of him to say how it "ends."

As others have said, we've just about all made equally dumb mistakes, with luckier outcomes or not. I sure have. Best wishes to John!
knudeNoggin

climber
Falls Church, VA
Dec 14, 2012 - 10:39am PT
(A) For the record I used the bowline for years,
(B) had it come undone twice and
(C) know three people personally who have suffered the fate of Largo.
By A, do you mean the simple/basic/"common" bowline,
without any extension for security? --so, not a double bowline, water bowline, b. _+ half-hitches or strangle knot ("half a grapevine/DFish"), or "Yosemite finish"

And re B, this was something you noticed --ACK!-- while on the sharp end, climbing? Did you then re-tie the same knot, or do something further/different?

For C, this point has been what was so unclear (and even the latest explanation sounds a little peculiar) : at this point, the general claim is that >>no knot was tied<<, and not that condition "A" obtained for Largo. So, are you saying that intended bowlines were somehow left undone (how?) or that maybe there was a case of a fig.8 eyeknot left undone (as with you)?

- - - - - - - -

For the gym climbing, I can see that adopting a procedure --i.e., actual physical movements-- of always beginning by the climber sitting back into the line so to both check that her knot is tied (and inspect on doing) AND that the belayer is set would be good to establish, though with so much line out, it might take some walking back away from the wall.


*kN*
PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 15, 2012 - 12:35am PT
I was at city rock just about to start the crux of a 5.12 that I was probably going to fall on but the rope was dragging on a hold; so I start flipping the rope to get it away from the hold and the rope flys off my harness because I didn't finish the knot. Now I always pull on the knot before I start and pull on the knot before I lean back to be lowered.
knudeNoggin

climber
Falls Church, VA
Dec 17, 2012 - 01:26am PT
Kudos to Healyje for hitting the nail on the head,
here : http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/Not-the-Knot.html

Adam, that was a complete botch job. The accident had nothing whatsoever to do with the type of knot and you as the author take away all the wrong lessons. Further, you arrive at the same wrong conclusions from the fatal accident in England. Duane then pipes in with uninformed personal bias and all to what end? Not Outside's best effort.

Elsewhere, I also noted that, in the zeal to blame the knot, those authors skipped the chance to make the important lesson about taking precautions.

I also wish that someone in the UK would make a complaint about the coroner who came to the unfounded conclusion about the Rothman death. As an official report, that should be circumspect, not speculative.


*kN*
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 17, 2012 - 01:51am PT
On a certain level, the "8" versus bowline knot is a metaphor for a fundamental aspect of climbing.

If you choose to use a bowline to tie in, you are putting yourself in a slightly riskier position in that failure to tie it correctly could be fatal. Failure to tie an 8 correctly could be fatal also, it's just less likely.

Kinda like leading a route rated R vs one rated PG.

The R rated route has its advantages and aesthetic appeal, but demands more focus, with a possibly a high price to be paid for the lack thereof.

Climbing in gyms promotes a different mindset - one more suited to leads rated PG. Music blasting, bathrooms nearby, snacks and chilled beverages, hot chicks lingering in skin tight clothing, padded floors, yoga classes, fitness machines and weights, holds everywhere, topropes galore, rock jocks strutting their stuff - in short, a perfect place for tying a figure 8, and having a girlie or three take a good long look at it to make sure it's done right before casting off.
knudeNoggin

climber
Falls Church, VA
Dec 17, 2012 - 02:08am PT
The Bowline I used was a double with a follow through back up and then a finishing knot.

Let me understand this : by "double", is that the "2 rabbit holes" version often given the name and featured in the Outside article? (as opposed to two eyes, sometimes getting the name)
And the "follow through back up", hmmm, something akin the the "Yosemite finish"? (as opposed to what Healyje has advocated, making a 2nd eye through the harness from a dbl.bowline base, reeving the tail through the knot and tying off with a strangle knot to the main line)

And the finishing knot? --the simple overhand is often shown in instructions, but that doesn't garner much faith at security IMO!

With all that in still came untied twice. Mind you I climbed 200-300 days a year from age 14 to 38, so that's a lot of knot tying.

Thanks for the history.
But twice out of all this time is --yes, twice too much had you fallen-- enough to make one wonder Why...? And to think that over two dozen years of continual climbing it would seem one heckuva *test* of the tie-in, between those failures : who'd think "nah, still not sure about dis knot!" with all that?! (unless one had seen it loosening, more often, though staying tied)
That IS a lot of knot tying; and a lot of knot not-untying.

What sort of duration was on the untyings? --in a single pitch?

Now I rig for a living working close to the same amount of days. So, basically I've tied and used knots more than most people as I'm now 49.

And have no doubt seen difference >>per material<<.


The figure 8, just gets tighter and tighter when weighted, making it impossible to untie after a big load.
There might be ways to redress the over-tightening of a fig.8 --i.e., to use the fig.8 base and then finish it differently. (And, for that matter, there is a symmetric version of the "fig.9" which should give similar security without the over-tightening (though I've seen it jam in HMPE, but that material is of another world!). This an unfamiliar knot and a little more complicated; it has the shared benefit to the fig.8, though, of also being tiable in the bight (i.e., no ends).)

Seems to me the figure 8 is the best knot to tie in with period, that is just plan fact.
There's more than has met the eye re contenders, as just noted.

I feel that using the wrong knot for the wrong job is a quick way to have a problem.

Not to come off too argumentative, but your long history at least didn't come to a "quick" problem, as noted above! (And there will be those others who claim "never failed". But even infrequent untyings are rightly disturbing. Hmmmm ... .)

Thanks,
*kN*
Silver

Gym climber
Pumpkin Rock
Dec 17, 2012 - 09:48am PT
What I'm reading here is if JL had a partner that day willing to stop him and check his harness and tie in he would be just fine given his partner knew what a bowline looks like finished or he asks JL to make sure his rope and harness were right?

Safety check your partner ever time no matter who they are or aren't.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Dec 17, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
The figure 8, just gets tighter and tighter when weighted, making it impossible to untie after a big load.

there's a secret to loosening up a weighted figure-8. slip one of the outer loops. it's easy to do, no matter how tight the knot has gotten--just bend the loop, slip it by pivoting it, and then you'll be able to force the tail back out quite easily--and the knot is untied.

the best reason for tying a figure 8, i think, is that it has a built-in mental insurance you don't get with the bowline. the knot is easy to master, and there's a pleasing, familiar "balance" to it when it's done properly. this becomes a real safety habit over time, especially when you're tying in hundreds of times a year.

i knew this thread would devolve into a technical discussion like this.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 17, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
A numer of knots will work if properly tied. The figure 8 is my choice....elegant, easy to tie and hard to get wrong.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 17, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
Both times the my bowline came untied was on the North Overhang on Intersection. Go figure.

Must the the weird vibes there. The scene of countless, sun-going-down, can't hear your partner screaming (but the campground can) epics

Peace

karl
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Dec 17, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
I have become a big believer in having my partner check my harness and knots every single time. It takes only a moment and shows that we are paying attention to each other. Before I lower off, I glance at my knot to double check it.

Generally I prefer the figure 8 for tying in because it is easier to quickly see whether it is tied correctly or not. A bowline requires closer inspection to see whether it is correct and it is much easier to tie incorrectly. A bowline tied incorrectly can fail completely, while a figure 8 tied incorrectly just tends to be somewhat less secure.

That said, I use bowlines a lot and really like them. If I really need a secure knot, I use a bowline follow through. It cannot come undone and is still easy to untie after many falls. There are probably a number of variations of bowlines that are very secure, but they require a bit more experience to tie and people have enough trouble tying figure 8s.

Coz states that bowlines have failed on him a few times in his long career. I wonder if the knot itself was to blame, then the failure rate would be higher, but...from a practical view, I don't think it matters. If Coz with his experience, miss tied the knot a few times in 40 years, then that is just as big a problem as if the knot failed when correctly tied.

To be fair, we should try to compare real world failure rates across different tie in methods.

As climbers we usually have another person nearby who can double check our knots. We should appreciate that and take advantage of it.

edit: bowlines rubbing, catching against the rock?... yeah, I can see how that might create more problems for a normal bowline than for a figure 8.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 17, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
I have used bowlines for thirty eight years of climbing and never once had one 'come loose', ever.
Bad Climber

climber
Dec 17, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
@Coz: So,just to be clear, you had a fisherman's finish/backup AND the bowline itself come untied? You have huge experience, and I have no reason to doubt you, but is that the combo you're talking about? When I used to use a (double) bowline, I always finished with the fisherman's. I can't imagine any scenario in which everything comes untied.

BAd
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Dec 17, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
professional riggers always have something extra to say about this stuff.

when i was on the SCMA board, a fellow board member, jim matthews, whom you might know, coz, since he worked for years rigging in hollywood and teaching stage management, got on our case about the clove hitch. the dear clove hitch, the quick, handy, fail-safe tie-in knot, no? not for jim's money. he'd seen it fail, he said, and we argued endlessly whether to be teaching this in our safety course.

ironically, i cornered largo about the matter one day at rockreation. he tied a couple of quick clove hitches to demonstrate how handy and fail-safe it was for a belay tie-in. "what's wrong with that?" he asked. i couldn't have agreed more.

but in guide training they fussed about dressing it properly. i also heard pro guides differ over whether the bowline ought to be backed up. i also discovered that my midwestern sailor way of tying a bowline--two opposing loops for a non-slip bow line for a boat--wasn't acceptable for a climber's loaded bowline. you live and learn.
BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Dec 17, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
I love the clove hitch ( can you tie it one handed? ), but in my guides training I was taught always load bearing strand against the spine and back it up wth an overhand on a bight.
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Dec 17, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
Enough lnot talk.

Largo;

Make sure you get a pair of MobiLeg crutches.. they are really good, no nerve damage, spring loaded etc..
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Dec 17, 2012 - 07:43pm PT

"Indulge in the kindness of others for a while and be good to yourself while you heal. :-)"

Thanks for that line. I'm learning that such indulging is the highest form of humanity - so long as it runs both ways. Life makes little sense without compassion to sustain it. When one of us goes down - it matters little who - we somehow revert to being divine supports for each other. That's been my experience in this hospital bed, and it has transformed my spirit.

As mentioned, all the orthopedic stuff is done. Now (tomorrow) they transplant a thin slice of muscle over the hole in my shin from where the bone came through. A tricky operation, but with a high success rate here at UCLA.

Hope to have good news soon about this whole fandango.

Love each other. There isn't anything else worthwhile.

JL
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 17, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
"Love each other. There isn't anything else worthwhile."



Truth...heal well, John.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 17, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
"Love each other. There isn't anything else worthwhile."

Ill second that....

John.... good to know your doing better, keep it up, the PT gets fun quickly.

Is this the first time you have been injured? Badly?

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 17, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
Hey buddy,

Glad to hear you're in good hands and better spirits. I guess it was just your turn this time, eh? Most of us have a turn at it, sooner or later.

From one "frankenankle" to another, enjoy your off time, do what the docs say, and eventually you'll be back on the rock.

Don't worry or fret - just heal, and then - one day - shut up and climb.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Dec 17, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
John,
Believe me, I know how lonely those Hospital rooms can get.
Here's an ole' timer get well card:

Credit: PhilG
Get Well soon, man.


Consider coming up to my place in Washington ("the Green State") for some rest, relaxation, and rehabilitation.

Phil
klk

Trad climber
cali
Dec 17, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
glad yr at ucla largo.

a top teaching & research hospital is a good place to be at times like this.

MH2

climber
Dec 17, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
Yes, they could learn something from JL.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 18, 2012 - 12:11am PT
HOW THE SAM HILL DO YOU SIT STILL IN THAT HOSPITAL BED??!?!!?!?!?!

Dammit , man, I was laid up in horsepistol with a myocardial infarction for three WHOLE days in '08 & it made me CRACKERDOG.

GTFO of that bed and back into service!!!!

Grins.
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Dec 18, 2012 - 01:59am PT
Credit: TYeary
TY
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 18, 2012 - 02:44am PT
Love each other. There isn't anything else worthwhile.

Don't mind being the one to "Third" that.

May the healing journey bring new insight and evolution

Because we gotta make the best of everything. My two injuries definitely contained blessings in disguise

peace

Karl
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Dec 18, 2012 - 03:33am PT
Wishing you a solid recovery John.

I went thru a very serious tib fib break in 2007, and I was not smiling like that within the first week, so I can safely say you will be fine. I did make a full recovery though, and became a real climber again this year.

Hang in there bro !
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 18, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
Yesterday at UCLA;.....John is on the mend. It was good to see him.



John and Tony Yeary......



go-B

climber
Hebrews 1:3
Dec 18, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
Careful JL, those water and piss bottles are too dame close together!
Good to see you smile!
GOclimb

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Jan 18, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
Not sure if I've missed it, as I don't follow all the threads on the Taco, but has anything come out on the cause more than "unfinished knot"? I had a friend tell me that he'd read that the knot *was* finished, but there was no backup tied. I do not want to spread rumors, and if nothing has been said, that's fine. I would just like to know if what i was told is true.

GO
yeahman

Mountain climber
Montana
Jan 18, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
It was unfinished.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Jan 18, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
Well John now that you have joined the middle aged gimp club (I am a member)
you can help petition for a handicap system like in golf. A 10a could become 10c if you have arthritis or 11b if missing a limb. Cosmic Cragsman might rate an 11a once his shoulder heals a bit.
Todd Gordon will get nothing for his hair-challenged situation but taking care of 3 young kids would rate a 1 letter boost.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Jan 18, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
i have one hand free 2nd weekend in march,
maybe one of yuall could meet up
with me in some sketchy ghetto
and help me kick my own asse.

i need's some recovery to
exhaust all this runaway well
being's i've been joying
GOclimb

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Jan 18, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
yeahman said:
It was unfinished.

As has already been pointed out upthread, "unfinished" can mean several things. If you've a link to anything more clear, that would be appreciated.

GO
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jan 18, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
I made the two bowline loops, and threaded the rope through my harness, but I didn't bring the rabbit out of the hole and around the tree.

So "unfinished" in the sense that he began climbing before finishing tying the knot, which means there was no knot at all.

NOT "unfinished" in the sense that the bowline was tied but none of the possible bowline back-ups were applied.

The Bowline-Instrument-of-Death crowd leaped on this as an example of the danger of bowlines, but exactly the same type of accident might have (and has) occurred with a figure-eight.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Jan 18, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
Thanks RG. So the rumor I heard was untrue. Glad to hear it.

Hope JL recovers quickly and fully.

GO
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 18, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
Exactly, rgold.

I'll give up my bowline when they pry it from my cold, dead hands.




That doesn't sound right....
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 18, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
we do the "John Long" inspection at the gym now... making sure the climber has finished their knot...

easy to do... and we get to think about John all the time...
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 18, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
I'm going to just toss out my random baseless theory about the knot-thing.

Edit to delete my wrong theory now that R-Gold gave me the slapdown ;)

@ Donald:

John Long is the lead singer of some washed up rock band and I think the "knots" are his backup singers.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jan 18, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
Gyms are mostly jingus and the good ones are bouldering oriented.
The best ones are private garage affairs.
In my Freakin' opinion.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jan 19, 2013 - 12:27am PT
I'm going to just toss out my random baseless theory about the knot-thing.

You got the characterization right.

John told us exactly what happened, and I just re-posted his quote five posts up from your RBT.

HIS KNOT DID NOT UNTIE!

justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 19, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
Sorry R-Gold... and you can back off the bold buttons there. I actually backtracked looking for John's (personal) explanation before posting. I was trying to avoid the mistake I just made, and evidently didn't go back far enough and scrutinizing your re-post was off the radar. It didn't register that it was a direct quote from John for some reason.

Hope John has a good recovery BTW.


Edit @ rGOLD: Viva la Chopolette! If John had been using like.. 12 knots to tie into that gym anchor, this tragic accident never would have happened. ;)

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jan 19, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
JTM, I got the quote from a Rock and Ice update, http://tinyurl.com/RandI-Largo-Update. At this point I don't recall whether it or a link was ever posted to one of the two threads here.

Sorry about the bold-faced shouting; at the moment it seemed to be called for, given that accurate information was available and had just been provided.

I can't fathom why you bring up the Chopolette. Ha---I had to search to discover it is something I posted. It has absolutely nothing to do with tying in and hasn't the faintest connection to John's accident.

For anyone whose interest is now unfortunately piqued, the Chopolette was part of a now seven year-old discussion initiated by Largo on rc.com on self-equalizing anchors. Even at the moment of proposal, it was clear that there would be too much friction in the "equalizing module" for it to perform effectively. It was a concept proposal. I went so far as to convince Mal Daly to make up a version for me modeled on the Trango Alpine Equalizer, but that prototype too seemed to have too much friction to be effective, and in any case none of my friends would use it.

We now know, because of further testing, that three-anchor self-equalizing systems in general perform no better than fixed-arm systems, which themselves equalize quite poorly. The Chopolette and all the other delightful inventions in that extensive thread were doomed to a fully-deserved irrelevancy.

As for the crack about "like...12 knots," the sad fact is that John's accident would have been prevented by one knot, the one he never finished tying.
John Butler

Social climber
SLC, Utah
Jan 19, 2013 - 05:56pm PT

Jan 18, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
we do the "John Long" inspection at the gym now... making sure the climber has finished their knot...

easy to do... and we get to think about John all the time...

So do we... And think about him, too

:-)

jb
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Jan 19, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
Todd Gordon will get nothing for his hair-challenged situation but taking care of 3 young kids would rate a 1 letter boost.

LOL

Maybe more like one number.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jan 19, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
You people need to get lives....

John's fine. Weird TMZ-like obsession with this sh#t.

Go climb something.
weezy

climber
Jan 19, 2013 - 06:27pm PT

bunny comes out of the hole, around the tree and back into the hole....
redrocker

climber
NV
Apr 17, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
Bump:

For an update from the man himself or from anyone close to him that know's how the healing has progressed.




climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 17, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
His body passed away but years of disciplined effort allowed him to infuse his awareness into cyberspace.

He is among us..
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Apr 17, 2014 - 08:25pm PT
It's scary . . . his awareness is EVERYWHERE!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 17, 2014 - 11:46pm PT
at the Blitzo memorial

Observant Larry, wounded Largo and a sanguine scientist
Observant Larry, wounded Largo and a sanguine scientist
Credit: Jaybro
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