When people quote wind speeds - call them on their bullsh*t

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GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 29, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
IT WAS RAGING 50-75 MILE AN HOUR WINDS!!!!!



How many times have you heard that?


Listen, we all like to make our stories sound amazing, and there is an art form to it. But if you make up a wind speed, and there's no societal price for fabrication, no longer will ACTUALLY KNOWING THE WINDSPEED mean anything in conversation.


Climbing in 25MPH gusts is f*#king impossible, and it sounds pathetic because asshats claim to climb in 60mph gusts at josh every tuesday.


Unless you got instruments, it just blew 'really hard.'


:) end rant!


(not directed at Cragman, haha I bet he actually DID measure it in that other thread, or knows what it feels like :D but you get my drift...)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 29, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
I agree. Hear it all the time. Especially 70-80mph. You have to really hold yourself to stay standing during gusts like that and people casually mention it like it aint sh#t.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
Haven't ya noticed that guys and girls often have a much different
description of how hard it blows?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
Yeah a friend of mine remarked getting blown off the top of a peak but I guess I should have asked some follow-up questions... that can be interpreted a number of ways....
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
Unless you got instruments, it just blew 'really hard.'

Yes. I was out at Moffett Field totally miserable, the winds were blowing so hard, they were about as hard as the worst winter days I've been out at Josh... maybe a little harder. The pilots and officials brought out the measuring equipment and declared 15mph with gusts to 25mph. Anymore than that, which does happen, and you can't stand up. :)
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
Use the Beaufort Scale, if you brought your tidebook to Josh.
QITNL

climber
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
I guess you'd probably hate this site:
http://windmapper.com/?Loc=CA
Warning: contains people quoting wind speeds.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
been on a 10K + summit in 90 mph at least. enough to pick you up, travel you backwards up hill.


three years ago, we had 100 mph gusts here and thats when the steel horse barn ended up on the roof of the shop- and the door blew off of it hitting me - flew for about thirty feet like a kite then slammed to the ground breaking five ribs with the door on top of me.. brutal ride that was.


weather service had 100+ winds recorded for Moundhouse that day is several spots.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
Why guess?

Credit: StahlBro
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
Warning: contains people quoting wind speeds.


If they are honest, then more power to them!


I've had sex with several small animals including a ground squirrel.

-QITNL

This is an example of a lie. gets annoying when people lie, I think.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
You know, that iPhone app is pretty bad-ass. But its like knowing the temperature.

It's just a number, and a number doesn't mean anything. 20mph in a T shirt in the desert in july, and 40mph in a down coat in winter, ya know? Same with temperate - doesn't matter what it says, I know when I'm cold and I know when I'm not. If it's fuggin freezing but the temperature is "only 65" I'll throw a coat on.


We're so attached to numbers, attached to quantifying... 10D or 10C... lol.

I'm probably the most guilty.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
in 90 mph gusts or worse, you lean 45 degrees or more forward to step - its actually kinda fun -if your on easy descent terrain.. cept when ya get pummeled on yur azz, and the sting of scree and sand.


Jobs sister first winter ascent of the north face feb 1977, during the onset of the years biggest storm. Folks thought us to be dead, we were having a BLAST! Like a free wind tunnel at times..
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
I'm pretty sure that 45 knot wind @ sea level, on the beach, packs a bigger punch than 45 knots at say 10,000 ft. More mass there, MV is bigger.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
There should be some nice rules of thumbs for climbers to use:

e.g. How windy is it when:
 your ropes blow sideways or up?
  Your balanced on your spread knees at a slabby belay and the wind keeps knocking you over every few seconds?
 you let go of the positive grips for upward movement in favor of sideways micro-crimps so the wind gusts won't launch you sideways?
 you can't speak with your partner at the same belay station unless you yell into cupped hands over their ears?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
i was in a Berryessa bass tournament once when the winds were howling at fifty straight down the lake.. There in the protected Spanish Flats marina harbor fished 128 boats- NO ONE was getting across or up the lake....We tried,, like the others, and tuned back after near sinking. Hard to fathom ten to twelve foot waves on that lil lake.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
And wind speed isn't the relevant issue anyway. 10mph, 20, whatever, as long as it's constant, it's usually not a problem. The problem is changes in wind speed. Gusts. Lean hard into a 45mph wind and you can walk. Let that wind suddenly drop to 30mph and you're on your face on the ground.

Likewise for climbing. Up to a certain point, as long as the wind is constant, you can deal with it relatively easily. But let it suddenly gust, and you're flying.
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
Last year we had a windstorm that was 80mph. It was the same day the big fire was blazing in Reno. I live on the east side of the Carson Valley facing directly west.

I let my dog out around 6am and the wind was blowing so hard that when I shut the door a vacuum went through the house and blew out the window in our bedroom.

Credit: dave goodwin

Credit: dave goodwin





Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
A friend of mine has an interesting account of a descent off Fitzroy. He was leading the rappels, as his partner had broken an ankle in a fall. A storm was breaking too. He said that repeatedly he would be rapping and get blown back up the wall by a gust and then dropped. Utterly wild.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
if one place knows the WIND,, its kneevader eh Dave..


Cali blows, and Utah sucks, were stuck in the middle.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
Kneevada might blow but you have to live in Alaska or Tierra del Fuego/Patagonia
to know wind. Trust me.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson

the ENTIRE Range of a mountain is hidden in THAT DUSTORM coming off the black rock plya- off I 80 i was in.

It was like a scene from the Mummy When the storm eats the plane,, but real..It was a good breeze that day as well

That wall is at lest three thousand feet high!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
GDavis, you are correct...most people are clueless as to just how hard wind gusts are in reality.

Interestingly, they do the same thing with ice steepness when climbing, and snow steepness when descending.
sempervirens

climber
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
It gets damn windy on those politard threads, using the bloviator scale.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
i snow plowed Washoe valley for eight years..Night and day.. I know winds,,yes,, yes i do.. Seen em toss semis like they were card board..The washoe zephyr is a BIOTCH!



I once plowed a full size cab over camper off the middle of the road- it had blown off a vehicle that just kept going lol! Highway patrol was in a panic so i said,, 'no prob" hit the gears and plowed that camper right on off the road then turned the plow to kick it on off the edge and into the snow.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
When I was building Victory Lodge, I was pinned down at the job for 54 hours by a blizzard....even though home was only a mile away, I couldn't get there.

During the sustained winds we had during that storm, our anemometer failed....at 149 mph.

I tried running my loader during that storm....could not even see the bucket out in front of me. Stayed inside and just hunkered down....fully expecting the windows to blow in at any moment.
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
I've lived in both Nevada and Alaska, and they both can have some mean winds. The worst winds I have experienced have been a North Taku wind coming of the Juneau Ice Cap. BRRRRRR!!

zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
Hey wait a minute.

You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.

Corollary:

You don't need a weather gauge to know how hard the wind blows.

If you tilt and turn your head into the wind so's that it rushes across the tympanic membrane you can get a very accurate reading, though some might call it a hearing, of how hard the wind is blowing.


-Joe Blow
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
As a pilot, I have a pretty good knowledge of wind speeds. I get to the airport, then get what's called the AWOS (Aviation Weather Observing Station) on my cell phone while standing outside. I simply won't fly in 36 knots, and only because of takeoff and taxi problems. The flight school cancels all student flying as soon as there are GUSTS to 35 knots. It's possible to flip a Cessna over on it's back with a high crosswind component. I've landed many times in 33-34 knots straight down the runway, but taxiing afterwards is a real pain in the a$$.

But, since we're talking climbing here: over 40 mph (35 knots), blowing dust and grit become a real hazard for vision. I've been blown around in Eldorado Canyon BITD, and simply avoid climbing on those blustry days any more. In the Colorado canyons, the wind tunnel-venturi effect is extreme.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
Sounds like Ron's had a boring life.

Tried riding a bicycle home from Colorado two summers ago and got caught in 60mph winds in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Coming from the side on a ridge. We couldn't even walk our bikes, just had to lay on the ground behind cover to hide from flying rocks until a ranger picked us up.

Notice the car pulled over cause they were scared to drive in it.

where the wind took us out
where the wind took us out
Credit: limpingcrab

Anyone who says they climb, or even hike, in 60mph winds is full of it.


D'Wolf

climber
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
I was snowboarding at Mammoth 3-4 years ago when the upper mountain was closed due to high winds. I came up the Boardwalk Express lift at one point. While trying to get off the lift I got blown back into the chair. My other half was on skis and used her poles to propel her forward. Sans poles, I tried 2-3 times before I simply ran out of space and ended up riding the lift back down to the bottom. Met my other half at the bottom and we rode the gondola up after that.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
Yeah. All those other fuks that "don't know" and think it's windier than it really is jest don't know wind.

Here's a couple photos of our ranchette last spring when the winds were gusting 40-60mph, with a nearby weather station reporting a high-gust of 68mph.
Note the debris flying and "dusted-out" sun.  Wind speed around 40 MPH...
Note the debris flying and "dusted-out" sun. Wind speed around 40 MPH.
Credit: Fritz
Looking west for an approaching fire with wind gusts between 30 & 40mp...
Looking west for an approaching fire with wind gusts between 30 & 40mph.
Credit: Fritz

There was a lot of smoke in the air and I couldn't see schist, so I was out in the storm trying to see if there was a nearby fire.

The highest gusts would knock me around a little, but I could walk OK.

I didn't have to adopt the "wide-stance" favored by Idaho's gay ex-senator Larry Craig.

Speaking of wide stances and Patagonia, we did enjoy a high-wind day on our 2010 5-day trip near Bariloche in Northern Patagonia.
Fritz at middle bottom.  Note my low, but not "wide-stance" in 25-35mp...
Fritz at middle bottom. Note my low, but not "wide-stance" in 25-35mph gusts.
Credit: Fritz
Heidi & Fritz near the top of our 2nd and highest pass of the day.   D...
Heidi & Fritz near the top of our 2nd and highest pass of the day. Don't I look like I'm having fun?
Credit: Fritz
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
Almost as bad as folks who talk about slope angle..

dude it was soooo steep at least 60deg...

yeah more like 40 mebbe

and yes at anywhere near sea level to 10k 60-80mph winds will put you on your ass you better crouch if you hear it coming.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
knuckle heads,, its COMMON for 75 mph winds in washoe valley and i worked out in those for eight years. Difficult, yes, impossible,, not by a long shot..And ive been blown off the road out there in a ten wheeler plow with ten yards of salt/sand on board..

got sum pitcherz sum where.



US 395  Washoe Valley nightime blizzard winds 60/70 four feet of snow ...
US 395 Washoe Valley nightime blizzard winds 60/70 four feet of snow over night. 1996
Credit: Ron Anderson


When ya get "hooked" by a drift 40 to zero in fifteen feet...Yeeeharwwwww!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
Very metaphysical arguments in here. Nobody can truly know anything, and the like. Or just more contrary internet BS ;).

I can't say I've ever been bothered by peoples' estimations of wind speed and slope. I really must do a better job fetishizing my annoyances.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
Jeebs,, ive read wind reports at the same time as i was near the weather stations.. I know EXACTLY.;-) Science and all that...Washoe has one smack in the middle- east side of the freeway. ;-)


I did a TR on the Jobs sister climb- it was in the papers round here. Winds were clocked on slide that day at 94 mph with higher gusts. Same time we were on the summit of Sister- and did a controlled flight down the west shoulder back to camp. For that exposed time you were leaning into it beyond what you thought you could to move step, then after about three good steps you hit a bubble in the wind and damm near launch on your face before the next one slams you backward a step or two..Its a SLOW process,, but FUN in the right setting. That was the right setting. As we got close to the summit that day, the ROAR of the wind cresting over it from the south west was deafening. Yelling at face to face was the norm. It can and has been done..
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
Jebus! Re your comment on wind speed and slope angle:

I can't say I've ever been bothered by peoples' estimations of wind speed and slope. I really must do a better job fetishizing my annoyances.


Indeed!

We are all waiting!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
It's so sad that you think you can know anything, Ron. Why don't you accept you've never seen a wind over 10mph and move on with your life?

LOL
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
When I took this shot of Carson Peak from Victory Lodge, at the beginning of the aforementioned blizzard, the anemometer read 82 mph. I attempted to step outside to take this photo and was immediately knocked on my arse.

I shot this through the glass. And that is not a cloud on the peak, but snow being stripped from it. I can only imagine what the wind speed was up there at nearly 11,000 feet, but again, it topped at least 149 mph at the Lodge later that night.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#142150
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
Hey,, im a LEFTY LIB now you cant say things like that anymore..;-)
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
Sierra Azul RAWS (remote automated weather station) monitored by National Weather Service. 1842 feet elevation behind Los Gatos
Yesterday morning through midday
28 13:32 S 24 G 53 52 51 100 2.62 54 24.8
28 12:32 S 35 G 74 52 51 100 2.62 53 25.6
28 11:32 S 40 G 72 52 51 99 2.57 52 25.8
28 10:32 S 26 G 53 53 51 95 2.40 53 25.6
28 9:32 SSE 27 G 53 53 49 89 2.29 52 25.6
28 8:32 SSE 30 G 45 52 48 88 2.24 50 25.3
28 7:32 SSE 20 G 49 52 47 84 2.14 50 22.2
28 6:32 SSE 22 G 43 50 46 89 2.14 49 21
28 5:32 S 16 G 46 52 45 77 2.13 51 16.2
28 4:32 S 28 G 46 52 44 75 2.13 51 15.3
28 3:32 S 24 G 40 52 43 73 2.13 52 15.6
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/sto/getRaws.php?sid=LSGC1&num=48

11:32 Steady 35 - 40 mph, gusting 74
I was on Ben Lomond ridge at that time. It felt to me like 60 knots (69 mph) which is hurricane force. So I guess I'm pretty well calibrated.

Right now I'm at home about 5 miles away as the tumbleweed flies and 1000 feet higher, on a ridge exposed to the Southwest.
last readings from Sierra Azul
29 17:32 S 30 G 55 54 53 100 2.83 54 26.1
29 16:32 S 31 G 53 54 53 100 2.80 54 26
29 15:32 S 24 G 55 54 53 100 2.77 54 26
29 14:32 S 30 G 55 53 52 100 2.76 53 25.9
29 13:32 S 16 G 51 53 52 97 2.69 54 25.7
Gusting 55 mph. Easy enough to walk in it if you bend to the breeze.
Gusted 61mph while I was writing this.

And I've felt MUCH stronger winds here at home.

I've commonly sailed in steady 30 knot (35 mph) winds and occasionally in gusting 50 knots (over 55 mph). as measured by the anenometer on my 30ft sailboat.
Kept my arse inside the house where I was staying a month ago tomorrow in Hurricane Sandy with local winds reported at 60 knots. Not because the wind would knock me over (which it wouldn't) but because of the falling trees, which there were.

Been knocked off my feet on the summit of Mt Rainier.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
I guess I think people feel they can get away with lying to you to impress you, because ain't no one gonna call 'em on their BS. So I'm gonna start :)


HAHA!






Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
When the rope snaps horizontal, it's blowing flippin hard. And if it goes straight up. Start praying.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
It's just another kind of fish story. NBD
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:10pm PT

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
Ron

No doubt a person can travel in 80+mph winds and gusts ..and yeah it can be a fun.. had a good time one night after work on Mt Rose in conditions like you describe..

But they will knock you on your ass or 20 feet away pretty easy if you misjudge em lol
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
No need to call bullshit here with wind speed here-

The classic of Irving Johnston on the ship Peking around the Horn in 1929. Well worth the effort to watch the entire episode.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
Smoke is rising vertically here.
Check your Beaufort Scale!
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
We won't get fooled again.

sharperblue

Mountain climber
oakland, california
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
gawd. if i hear one more 'hurricane force' term used on any BS TR just one more time, i'm going to flip out. seems like there's a been a huge amount of hyperbole and exaggeration of wind speed, route ratings, penis size, and everything else over the past few years...wait...i MAY be getting old...sh*t
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
Having crawled (slowly) into 90+ mph winds on Mt Washington a few times on purpose I totally agree... People have no f'ing idea how scary real wind is. On one trip a friend (~200 pounds) got his chest a wee bit too far off the ground and was lifted right off the ground and blown about 25' backwards, luckily onto a breakable crust downslope. Right next to me too... Was like watching God just pluck him off the Earth.
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
G Davis you have no clue about wind. Come to my hood when the "scary Devil wind " comes. You won't care about numbers, you'l just hope that nothing gets broken. Have had campers blown over, (now bolted to concret slab with chains), tables blown off decks landing on cars, and every type of ball,toy trash can, etc in the yard after the wind. MY neighbor had a trampoline fly into his house,rip-off the trim and all the vinyl siding was stripped from the side of his house. Welcome to Hilton crk. :)
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
Some of ya ought to come climb in The Columbia River Gorge. The wind howls and we climb. Here is a wind photo for ya.
Kinda windy
Kinda windy
Credit: Plaidman
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
The microbursts during monsoon season when I lived in Phoenix were pretty impressive. And seemingly random, like skip lesions in the colon of a Crohn's patient. Those winds must have been coming down at 11mph to even 12 mph or more to tear down the roofs, knock over cinder block fences, and scatter trees like kindling.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
Right you are GDavis....the other area where climbers waaaaay overestimate is the steepness of snow slopes.

Concerning wind; I'm willing to bet that I've experienced more than anyone else on the Taco.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
Oh don't you fellas worry I'm a super pussy in weather, lol! I've bailed off off a 5.6 with my mom cuz A cloud, not several but a teeny one a lil ways away. I'm pretty sure a strong wind gust a while back put me back in puberty.


Never meant to say that I know anything about wind, sh#t I'm completely ignorant on what numbers mean what and feel like what.


Harshest winds were on Baldy in Feb about 2011, could hardly stand up and got kinda scared (again, I'm a pussy)so sorta crawled to the summy stood for a photo braced against a bunch of old day hikers that were psyched then crawled back to where I found a new kind of face-first glissade technique. Hurts on wind-hard ice but its super safe i think.
Leggs

Sport climber
A true CA girl, who landed in the desert...
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
I allow my magic hair to predict wind speeds...

Gatespass 2012 <br/>
 <br/>
Tucson, AZ
Gatespass 2012

Tucson, AZ
Credit: Leggs

PS: What the hell happened to the "weather girl" with the low cut blouse?! She was enjoyable. ;)
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
just F@#king with ya GD. Cheers :)
Chaz

Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
"You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows."



( windsock pictured is bigger than it looks )

I learned how to "read" a windsock when I was tending bar in Alaska ( Mangy Moose, Tonsina Lodge ). The bar had an airstrip where normal bars would have a parking lot. I took phone calls from pilots all the time enquiring about local weather conditions.

I was a city boy, dropped into the Alaskan Bush, so when someone called and asked what the weather was like, I'd more often than not, answer "fine". What did I know?

Wasn't long before word of my ambiguous weather reports got back to my boss, a pilot himself. He told me what those callers were asking for; ceiling, wind direction, and wind speed. Once I found out what my customers wanted, that became part of my job.

( windsock pictured isn't in Alaska, it's near the Point Arena Lighthouse in California )



Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Concerning wind; I'm willing to bet that I've experienced more than anyone else on the Taco.

Donini wins! Doesn't Patagonia = WIND?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
the chinook
the chinook
Credit: Stewart Johnson
John M

climber
Nov 29, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
Hey Guido.. thanks for posting that video of sailing the Horn. That was fantastic. Quite a tale. That needs to be posted on the sailing thread.
rich sims

Social climber
co
Nov 29, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
Well I sailed in 30 knot winds Yep they had instruments.
It was fun had to reef the main.
Fastest I think I have sailed.

Probably not sh#t compared to the winds some of you have experienced climbing big stuff and Im not speaking the big Stone.
79-80ish 4th of July 104 on sickle I remember seeing ropes blow sideways up higher and we were wishing for the wind.
Maybe it was when we were back on the ground that I saw the wind. HA Ha
crøtch

climber
Nov 29, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
What's the wind speed when your backpack straps are whipping your face raw and you have to brace yourself when you hear the gusts coming even on flat ground?
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Nov 29, 2012 - 11:24pm PT


splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 29, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
there are only 4 "wind speeds" that i know of:

1) glassy

2) choppy

3) blown out / aka - victory at sea (good day to go climbing, instead of surfing)

4) santa ana's / off shore (winds) = primo conditions
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 29, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
Here's some fun with wind. Looks like someone forgot to tie down the front end of this 747-200F retired to the Mojave desert.

Don't bother watching the whole thing -- nothing really exciting happens after the first minute -- but think about the fact that the wind speed was around 70 mph and that bird weighs about 170 tonnes (375,000 pounds)

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 11:59pm PT


Mike on Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route, the rope is over to the right because of the wind, no pro in yet...
windy day then, but hey, it's the mountains

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:07am PT
So, how much wind would it take to lift a 160 lb. dude and gear in a hammock up and shake him like a leaf? I lived through that and was told 100 mph. Does that sound right?
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:07am PT
George Gardner, a guide for 17 years, fell from the lower Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton while free soloing in 2008. Some have speculated he fell from the Black Face pitch during an atypical 60 mph wind gust measured about 6 PM the evening before his body was discovered east of the central rib.

George had done the route many times.

20 to 40 mph winds are commonly measured on the instruments at the Lower Saddle. I’ve been on the Grand Teton more than thirty times and recall only a handful of climbs that the air was still. Climbing in significant winds is common on the higher peaks of the range…but executing moves in small holds on that portion of the route…with winds that intense… seems pretty dubious.

…a sad day for George’s family and fellow guides.
Dave Kos

Trad climber
Temecula
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:16am PT
Concerning wind; I'm willing to bet that I've experienced more than anyone else on the Taco.


You should consider a change in diet.
treez

Trad climber
99827
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:29am PT
I lived on Float A in Douglas Harbor for three winters years ago.

Long nights of Takus gusting 90.

I know wind.

I could spend every day calling people on their bullsh#t. Especially my own.

Everybody loves a good story.

Versamillitude is always appreciated.

The cool thing about talking is you don't have to spell.
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:54am PT
walking cross country through the woods in SoYO on a ridge above the San Joaquin river gorge this past spring, Harrison and I came across a wide area of trees blown over, all of them, and all of them were larger in diameter than the two of us could get our arms around together. BIG trees blown by that gale that went through there. Hurricane force. From that area you can see Mammoth, Banner and Ritter and the path of the wind. Believe me, the forest was blown down.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:08am PT
I've seen bunks of plywood peel and scatter like a decks of cards in Carson City and Juneau many times, i've had property in west Washoe Valley selectively and significantly thinned of old growth pine, i've climbed when the wind has blown the rope straight up rather than just sideways, but i've never, anywhere else, seen anything approaching the ferocity of a sustained winter windstorm as in the corner of the Matanuska-Susitna valley that i have inhabited for the last thirty years.Interior Alaska regularly gets long winter cold snaps associated with clear skies and high barometric pressure systems and as intense low pressure systems come into the gulf of Alaska the pressures have to equalize with the resulting winds funneling and gaining speed through the canyon between the Chugach and Talkeetna ranges and into the valley. I've seen this equalization take several days and sometimes up to a week to play out. During these periods the wind is often sustained above 75 mph and with gusts well exceeding 100 mph on a regular basis. Anywhere else it would be called a hurricane,but here it is just a normal winter condition. My two sons are enduring just such an event right now. They informed me today that the Russian and Ukranian immigrant contractors,that are our main competition, lost two houses in the framing stage.I can't say i'm particularly sorry for them, but i know they will learn.


Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:32am PT
I guess I think people feel they can get away with lying to you to impress you, because ain't no one gonna call 'em on their BS. So I'm gonna start :)

That's what I have really come to appreciate about smart phones... aka BS blockers. :)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:37am PT
Rick Sumner, thank you.



Mat-Su Valley
Mat-Su Valley
Credit: Reilly
Second only to this place...

Beagle Channel
Beagle Channel
Credit: Reilly

and this place...
Credit: Reilly

rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:17am PT
Reilly, good to know others on this Taco have experienced a Mat-Su breeze. A lot of the time when the wind is whipping down below it is relatively calm up at Hatcher, as you are probably well aware. I don't know about your other examples ,as i've not experienced their windy delights, so i assume you are right.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:45am PT
Climbing in 25MPH gusts is f*#king impossible, and it sounds pathetic because asshats claim to climb in 60mph gusts at josh every tuesday.

Well, that's part of the beauty of having moved to the Columbia River Gorge for the highwind windsurfing back in the mid to late 80's - we regularly get to sail on minuscule boards waving tiny sails the size of half a trench coat in summer West winds so strong the river sets up in 15-20' standing waves with a sheet of a solid sheet of white foam across the top that has flip massive barges out in the desert east of Hood River. Guys throw double forward loops off those wave tops and can get 40-60' over the troughs.

On those days, the most dangerous part of windsurfing is just trying to get the damn board on and off the top of your car and down to the beach without getting killed. And you know it's a big day when even the solidly good crowd thins down to just a handful of folks while everyone else sits it out on the beach to watch or goes home beat up and exhausted. Point being, we do know exactly how strong the winter East winds are in the Gorge each year and what windspeeds you can and can't climb in on Beacon Rock.

Up on the final corner ridge where the fierce East wind is forced go up and over the top of Beacon it does blow steady 50kts with long persistent gusts to 70 kts on a quite regular basis each winter. And to climb that final ridge pitch you're almost better off soloing off like a normal day as if you do it roped you have to lace it up or long loops of rope between pieces start to blow out in space over the edge exerting enormous sideways forces on your pro and generating a staggering a downward pull on you by the top of the pitch. That, and 'climbing' on the pitch basically involves having to hug the rock, lock down all four points hard, and ride it out waiting for a momentary let up when you can make one move, possible two, only to then lock all points back down hard and wait it out again. It's a harrowing amount of cold, hard wind you couldn't possibly stand upright against and makes an otherwise easy route into a spectacular and unforgettable experience.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:14am PT
Ed.....thanks for the Beaufort scale but this scale represents SUSTAINED winds.

Storm Force 64-72mph......Very rarely experienced on land; usually with widespread damage

Last night at the Sierra Azul RAWS (again), 1842 feet above sea level behind Los Gatos
30 5:32 S 38 G 70 55 54 100 4.08 54 26.2
30 4:32 S 41 G 71 54 53 100 3.85 54 26.2
30 3:32 S 41 G 74 54 53 100 3.68 54 26.2
30 2:32 S 45 G 83 54 53 100 3.52 54 26.2
30 1:32 S 43 G 72 54 53 100 3.41 54 26.2
30 0:32 S 36 G 72 54 53 100 3.33 54 26.2
Gusting over 70 MPH for 5 hours. Sustained only in the 40s
Those are the gusts that shook my house and woke my wife. I don't wake up till something big hits the house. Which it didn't last night.
Bugged the heck out of Sarah when we were at sea in full gales and I'd sleep my off time on the floor of the cabin.

Gusting to about 20 here now. calm as a sleeping kitten (comparatively)
Oh, and off topic: 3 inches of rain in last 24 hours.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:25am PT
you can be doing fifty mph down the road in washoe valley, toss a ciggy butt out and it will pass you..Seagulls often fly backwards there.

Rick,, too bad about the ruskys and their frames!;-)
10b4me

Boulder climber
member since 2002
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:53am PT
Cragman, that picture of Carson Peak is very impressive
rrider

climber
Mckinleyville, Ca
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:54am PT
Spring Ridge/Windy Hill.  Off Skyline Blvd, San Mateo County.  ~50mph
Spring Ridge/Windy Hill. Off Skyline Blvd, San Mateo County. ~50mph
Credit: rrider
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:56am PT
NICE form! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:58am PT
^^^^
just down the road (12 miles as the hawk flies) from my place and 1000 feet lower
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
It bears repeating that the density of air changes with altitude. Also (and this is kind of counter-intuitive) moisture Decreases density. So...40mph at sea level feels harder than a 40mph wind at 15,000 feet. Like the difference between getting hit by 20 mph bike vs a 20 mph car.

You can see from the graph below that as you increase height, density goes down, partial pressure of water vapor (vapor pressure) and temperature play a part also.

air density
air density
Credit: ydpl8s

EDIT: Well I didn't do too good of a job getting the formulas over here, so here is a good reference for all of you that want to look deeper into the subject.

http://wahiduddin.net/calc/density_altitude.htm

EDIT2: This is also directly tied into why water boils at lower temperatures at higher altitudes. Think back to your 8th grade physical science class when they put a beaker of water under a vacuum bell and got it to "boil" at room temperature as they decreased the pressure.
HuecoRat

Trad climber
NJ
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
Keep Hurricane Sandy in mind. The top winds were 70 mph and the destruction was enormous. I will try to post some photos of what the wind did near my house. Literally hundreds of trees uprooted or snapped off.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
Nice graph
So what is the mass density of air where I live at 800 meters when saturated with H2O?
Compared to dry air at sea level.

Or considered another way, when I was knocked off my feet on the summit of Rainier on a dry day, the wind speed would have been about 50% higher than required to knock me off my feet at sea level.
Or since I'm familiar with 30 kts of wind when sailing on the SF Bay, I'll be underestimating the wind speed when I'm at altitude?

Of course, without instrumentation, it's all a Wild Arsed Guess.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
The flip side is that, since wind speed numbers don't mean much to most people, when someone says "60mph" i have no idea what that translates to and I think "Ok, i guess it was just blowing really hard".

So, I don't care if they're accurate.
TradEddie

Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
I've only climbed at JT once, and it was incredibly windy, I had a fist jam deep in a crack when a gust blew me sideways and I thought my arm was going to break. Twentynine Palms weather station recorded gusts at 70mph that day. call it BS all you like, you'll know when its 70mph.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
Although Donini claims to be the Windmaster amongst us I've heard from
reliable sources that Guido can break a gale with his bare hands.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
toss a ciggy butt out...
Lame!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
I don't know about all that sh#t but it was blowing like 90 here a minute ago.....


( . )( . )
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
I'm just the land guy. Guido gets the 71% covered by ocean.
rwedgee

Ice climber
canyon country,CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
Sunday Rain before 10am, then snow. High near 40. Very windy, with a southwest wind around 55 mph, with gusts as high as 80 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of 6 to 10 inches possible.

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?site=rev&smap=1&textField1=37.969583333333&textField2=-119.15875


Lee Vining
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
And then there is spending a night in a tent at 10,000' when an official
weather station nearby, but 3000' lower, recorded winds of 105 mph. Two
ice axes, two ice tools, flukes, deadmen (lol), and X ice screws did
the job. Thank you JanSport! The proto tent survived with only two of the
three poles breaking. (but didn't tear the sleeves!)
Caveman

climber
Cumberland Plateau
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
I got to experience winds in the neighborhood of 50mph recently. The wind speed was not that big of deal. The problem was that about 500ft to the west the wind was blowing to the south at 50mph. 500 ft. to the east the wind was blowing north at 50mph. Directly overhead at about 1500ft was an inverted hersheys kiss shaped cloud reaching for the ground. The most dangerous winds were wrapped in clouds and sounded like they had a freight train in them. Highest gusts in the storms exceeded well over 100mph. We didn't have trees down. We had forests disappear.
One thing I learned that day..........if you are a tornado chaser, you most likely do not want to catch one!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
100 posts in 26 hours, that's less than 4 /h
still it blows me away
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 10:15pm PT
Seems like a lot, but most of these posts are unnecessarily....






































..... long winded.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
"I guess you'd probably hate this site:
http://windmapper.com/?Loc=CA
Warning: contains people quoting wind speeds."

GREAT site QINTNL! I was down today working on a roof that blew off in 100 mph gusts a week back. Site says it was 31 mph today, which was within 1 mph of what I guessed it was. Very sweet! Says that it's gonna be getting up to 59 mph in a few days, looks like I need a few blue tarps once the rest of the shingles blow off.
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