First Ascents: to share or not to share

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limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 27, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
That is the question.

What do you do, or would you do when you climb one? Keep it a secret? Make a billboard, facebook, banner, website and guidebook?

I've only been part of a few, so I'm no expert. But since I love the idea of standing (or hanging) where nobody else ever ever has in the history of earth I hope to be part of more.

Here are some pros and cons off the top o' me head while thinking about what to do in the future:

Con
-more people might come to the area
-haters gonna hate/argue/judge
-less unknowns for others
-someone thinks they're doing an FA when they're not (maybe a pro, but I don't want to be that someone)
-someone comes later and claims the FA

Pro
-extreme fame, glory, and recognition
-sharing climbs with other climbers
-naming things is fun
-groupies
-keeping people up to date on the area (I like to know what's going on)

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 27, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
Tweet for sure.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 27, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
I reported one once so others would not die

Ballistic wall
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 27, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
Totally situational like everything else about climbing.

If I stumble into a new area with potential, I like to keep it on the low low among a few friends so we get to pick the cherries. Once that is done the word goes out so folks can enjoy the place. I mean after all if I did the legwork to find the place, fair is fair, right?

On the other hand if you find and do a good new route in an established area there is not much point to keeping it a secret, right? It's just another resource for the community.

Not part of your question, but one I think about a lot, is why do FA's which are not high quality? I see this in a lot of places and it makes me wonder. Like food and wine and ale, quality should come before quantity.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 27, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
if its at some already established area,, certainly. but if its at some new crag your developing, the normal greedy approach is to pick all the plums first,, then let it out of the bag. this is basic stuff.;-)
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Nov 27, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
What kind of first ascents are you referring to? There are multitudinous types of climbing on a huge sliding scale of magnitude.

Who cares about some "first ascents" on some random chosspile somewhere? Probably only the "first" person to climb them.

If you are climbing a "first ascent" with the sole motivation being to report your effort, you are doing it for the wrong reason.

Humans are so narcissistic.
ec

climber
ca
Nov 27, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
Greg?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 27, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
extreme fame, glory, and recognition, groupies

Damn, that Fortress thing did not bring us any of that. We gotta find better rocks! just kidding.


Personally, I would report if I think it is a worthy climb. Would report if I had a lot of fun on the climb/liked my partners/had a story to share. Actually same as any TR I would want to post. If I did not have fun on some climb/hated my partners, than I don't even want to talk about it.


So, ummmm..like...you think Homer's Nose will bring us groupies? When is we going? ;)
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 27, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
Greg who?
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Nov 27, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
I've done it both ways, but looking back I should have reported more of them. They end up with bolts next to perfect cracks.

All of which nobody really cares about anymore, including me.
MisterE

Social climber
Nov 27, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
Kris nailed it.

If you do FA's for yourself and your "group", don't report.

If you do FA's so other people will enjoy them, then share after you have FA'd all the good lines.
ec

climber
ca
Nov 27, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
Kalimon = Greg = Narcissus

 ec
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 27, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
Cons of sharing:

Access across private property could be lost with more people.

Trail braiding and erosion if an area becomes popular with no established trail.

A climber with good experience and vision should be able to bolt adjacent routes so that they use the features and natural lines without crowding one another. Too many first ascensionists create disparate and often conflicting visions and lines.

It's really nice, especially if you live most of your life in an urban area to have the crag and the whole scene all to yourself and your partner. Even one other party changes the experience completely.

Trash, dog problems, kids, toilet paper and associated waste, gear ripped off from stashes, broken holds, greasy holds, trampled vegetation, noise, waiting to get on classic routes or problems, general distraction and commotion, thoughtless bolting, cigarette smokers/butts, competition/rush for first ascents of classics.


Pros for sharing:

Hot young chicks in tight skimpy clothing - that's about it : )





MisterE

Social climber
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
Cons of sharing:

Access across private property could be lost with more people.

Trail braiding and erosion if an area becomes popular with no established trail.

A climber with good experience and vision should be able to bolt adjacent routes so that they use the features and natural lines without crowding one another. Too many first ascensionists create disparate and often conflicting visions and lines.

It's really nice, especially if you live most of your life in an urban area to have the crag and the whole scene all to yourself and your partner. Even one other party changes the experience completely.

Trash, dog problems, kids, toilet paper and associated waste, gear ripped off from stashes, broken holds, greasy holds, trampled vegetation, noise, waiting to get on classic routes or problems, general distraction and commotion, thoughtless bolting, cigarette smokers/butts, competition/rush for first ascents of classics.


Pros for sharing:

Hot young chicks in tight skimpy clothing - that's about it : )

^^Where's the love of sharing the fruits of your efforts, Warbler?

Are you being sarcastic cuz I am not seeing much love for the community in that last post.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
I don't want anyone on the Peak of Many Couloirs, it's my friends and I's little secret, so it was never reported.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
is that a euphemism ?

Hot young chicks in tight skimpy clothing - that's about it : )

^^Where's the love of sharing the fruits of your efforts, Kevin?


to share or not to share?

depends on the area.. like...

Yosemite Valley (eventually share)
Tuolumne Meadows (eventually share)
Hetch Hetchy (never share)

certainly there are great routes around to do, and one wonders if the talk gets too loose on an area that others will come and do the lines you're interested in...

and it is nice that there aren't that many people around, but look at Parkline Slab development in the past 5 years which has exploded with lots of people doing FAs... and not that happy about squeeze jobs and some of the overbolting... the word got out there and lots of routes went up...

good or bad?

there are lots of other areas in the Valley which are developed, but not well known yet, and there are places being developed... still a lot of potential....

tell or not tell?

I've never ever been able to answer that question.
WBraun

climber
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
Report all your secrets to Fox News.

Tell them everything ......
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
share = spray
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
It was somewhat tongue in cheek, Eric

I do share and have shared lots and lots of routes and areas I've developed, after the work's done, and I'm climbing elsewhere.

I've learned over 40 years of doing new routes that ... well, put it this way - the only first ascent I did at El Cajon Mountain here in SD, and for that matter, the only route I've done there, I named The More the Messier.

Most folks who know San Diego climbing lore will understand...

I climb with only one partner, we have more or less the same goals and vision for the area, and it's all under wraps for reasons cited above. Rarely, like two or three times a year I'll go climbing on established routes with friends, and that's fun, but...

"The climbing community" can create lots of problems at unclimbed areas, from what I've experienced - my buzz has been blown way more than once in many ways by other climbers at the crag, especially where new routes are concerned. I never find myself wishing there were more people when I'm out.

That said, I'm happy to share the routes and all the work I've done to put them up - after they're ready for public enjoyment. I'm even occasionally around when it happens...

MisterE

Social climber
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
I know you are, just checking in.

In Arizona, there is so much, I just got used to sharing the wealth...it also helps clean up the routes with more travel.

Different rock, different attitude. I have an idea:

Choss is for sharing

clean rock is for the in-crowd.

How does that sound?
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