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Chuck Crawford
Trad climber
Atlanta
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May 25, 2006 - 11:32am PT
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If you go to WWW.DixieCraggersAtlas.com you can view pictures of the south. The Dixie Craggers Atlas is the only guide book that covers the south (Not Including North Carolina) Check it out.
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Chuck Crawford
Trad climber
Atlanta
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May 25, 2006 - 11:36am PT
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I forgot about Shufords. I agree, great pudding! There are so many great routes at T Wall that it would be hard to list them all. Most people go right at the top of the trail but, the left has tons of great routes as well.
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Dr.Kodos
Trad climber
Tennessee
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2006 - 11:38am PT
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Chuck: Good call. Excellent color photos on the site by Scott Perkins, too. The book is a bit heavy. I prefer the original one done by Rob & Chris, but that is just me. Personally, I like Rob's sense of direction (and humor) a little bit better than Chris'.
The left area is the real deal. I call going right, the warm up area.
Special thank you to people like Rob, Jerry, Kirk, Tyler, Anthony M, Stuart & Heidi, Hideteka, Robyn, and all the others (that I forget or neglect) that help make this the premier crag in the Southeast for sandstone junkies like me.
Anyone interested in checking it out is welcome to get in touch. I can offer showers, places to keep your stuff safe, and a nice cozy place to crash if you aren't into camping.
For free? Well let's just say that money is not the issue, but fungible commodities are always welcome.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 25, 2006 - 11:47am PT
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HAHA, that is not the regular way to do finagle, but it is the fun way.
IT's a jump start from there, (for runts) not a campus, BTW.
A HEEL like you should know better, Yuk, Yuk.
To who asked about the rock at Twall, most of the sandstone here (in the south) is just incredibly hard.
twall is not even the hardest, by a long shot, but it is just not possible to pull gear through or cam track this stuff.
Most southern sandstone I climb on can be climbed wet, with no fear of breakage. In fact, Stegg and I did a shyteload of routes that are normally soaked with water, last year in a drought, and not a piece came off.
I have a few routes that are always wet in spots, nothing ever breaks on em.
There is a lot of iron and a lot of quartz in this stuff. The matrix is not the same as your western dried bread rock.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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May 25, 2006 - 11:50am PT
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How big of an area is T Wall? Good sandstone, eh? How long are the routes?
I'll go visit the Dixie Craggers site.
Nice pix on that site. I didn't realise the south had that much rock. Is it all sandstone? And the quality?
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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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May 25, 2006 - 11:57am PT
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Don't forget kids, the T-Wall is SOUTH FACING.
T shirt weather in Dec if the sun is out. Put some pics of something hard up there Dr. Kotex.
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Dr.Kodos
Trad climber
Tennessee
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2006 - 11:59am PT
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Best sandstone in the country. Rope length routes, one 70m rope is all you need. Hundreds of routes and potential for many more. New routes are going in on a daily basis.
Some of the old guard has taken up the torch again and some really amazing stuff is getting put up.
Sandstone is my obsession.
This stuff is pure gold. Bullet hard. Tons of ironite and a high quartz percentage in the matrix. Like dirtineye stated, there are many areas that have even harder stone than T Wall. 00 Brass nuts stick like magic here. Cams do not track, even when wet.
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Dr.Kodos
Trad climber
Tennessee
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2006 - 12:02pm PT
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Put some pics of something hard up there Dr. Kotex.
Hard is relative. Most people climb 5.10 and below. I would rather represent my climbing level and experiences than represent other people's level and experiences.
I am a gumb.
I leave it to the people that climb 5.12 and up to represent their efforts. 5.11+ is my glass ceiling, sorry. And with my MS and advanced age I do not think I will ever get that much better.
~ drkodos
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 25, 2006 - 12:05pm PT
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Good story Dingus!
Congratulations on creating the sort of good thread you are capable of, Richard.
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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May 25, 2006 - 12:08pm PT
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nice pix
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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May 25, 2006 - 12:20pm PT
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Most 'hards' at T-Wall involve 2 ropes or so I've heard...
Thx Dingus.
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Dr.Kodos
Trad climber
Tennessee
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2006 - 12:28pm PT
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426: Some do, but not nearly most. Very few routes wander, but the large roofs on the 12's and up could make doubles efficient in reducing rope drag.
On the sport routes there is no need for two ropes.
Doubles never hurt.
Curt Johnson: Thank you, sir. Can we share an olive branch one of these days? A big one, if need be, maybe?
I openly apolgize to you and really want to be civil and hold you in the respect you deserve for your knowledge and willingness to share it. You are much better than I at the technical understandings of force and other climbing sciences. I have learned much from you and would like to continue doing so (like fall factors possibly being greater than 2.0).
I really have no hard feelings about you or anyone nor will I develop any. I just cannot afford it, and it is that simple.
AND THE TRUTH: You know you were instrumental in me moving down south. I know it and so do you. Remember our postings on RC back in the day?
The truth is the truth is the truth.
Don't truth me and I won't truth you! ha HA!
~ Richard
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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May 25, 2006 - 07:26pm PT
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some old pics
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Dr.Kodos
Trad climber
Tennessee
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2006 - 07:46pm PT
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I wish I had found that nice stemming position the first time I led Precious Orr.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Mar 19, 2007 - 08:12am PT
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"Gift..of..Power"-one of the old school sport routes...not much in vogue anymore.
Cruxin'
Clippin'
Hookin'
Clingin'
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 19, 2007 - 08:29am PT
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Patrick, there's definitely no comparison between the stuff at Diablo and the band of sandstone that stretches from SoIll on down through Tennessee. Much finer grain and harder. It begins to form more and more cracks as you head SouthEast to TN or southwest to AR. Haven't been down to TN, but my brother's moving within spitting distance so I suspect I will soon...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 19, 2007 - 08:34am PT
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Patrick, there's definitely no comparison between the stuff at Diablo and the band of sandstone that stretches from SoIll on down through Tennessee. Much finer grain and harder. It begins to form more and more cracks as you head SouthEast to TN or southwest to AR. Haven't been down to TN, but my brother's moving within spitting distance so I suspect I will soon...
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Mar 19, 2007 - 11:43am PT
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Well richard, I missed this last post, probably was in really bad shape from chemo at the time, but better late than never.
Thanks for your kind words and your olive branch, and I'll accept it.
You really can be an asset to climbing.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Mar 19, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
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Oh Healyj are you in for a treat. T-wall is spectacular. It's no surprise that I've not been to the Red or Arkansas to climb for a year. The car goes straight to Tennessee at every opportunity.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Mar 20, 2007 - 12:30pm PT
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Silly crimposter, you really must see the BSF.
Aus Gezeight Nicht!
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