Deconstructing guide books -

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Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 25, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
That study determined that approximately 95% of climbers tended to only climb the same 5% of documented climbs.

Actually certain climbing areas can benefit in this regard by having a current comprehensive guide. This situation of everyone doing the same relatively small group of classics in an area which is full of neglected classics happens when the printed guides become obsolete, or unavailable and info on the web pretty much mimics these books.

In this situation the publication of a new comprehensive book will help to spread people out among climbs they would have otherwise not searched out.

Then of course there are those who dig deeper and find the obscure and the un-climbed. One thing I've seen in a guide which I dislike is "There are plenty of FA opportunities one this face" or the like. That crosses the line for me.

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