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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 17, 2012 - 12:20am PT
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Some interesting stuff from a post on Squamish Climbing
"In a recent study by Mammut, tests have show that some fixed carabiners (often found on steep sport crags) can be worn in to such a shape as to cut through your climbing rope in a fall as short as 2.7 metres.
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Mammut is urgently calling for the immediate discontinuation of use and removal of permanently installed quick draws and carabiners in climbing areas. Irrespective of the manufacturer of such equipment, repeated wear can result in the formation of sharp edges capable of damaging or completely severing ropes, even in relatively small falls. Investigations by Mammut have shown that this known problem is actually far more dramatic than previously assumed and represents a very high risk for climbers."
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67607
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Nov 17, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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can we start pulling them now?
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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That's the trouble with getting older, the mind goes before the gear fails! Missed your post Anders.
Thanks.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Nov 17, 2012 - 12:47am PT
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Bolt hangers can also cut the rope.
Remove all bolt hangers, in the interest of safety.
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splitter
Trad climber
da'Raven / Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 17, 2012 - 12:47am PT
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Posting something like this more than once (2 threads) is worth doing. Make sure everyone gets the message. I mean, you (OP) missed it somehow, so there could be others also. Hopefully they will catch this one, cud save someones life, eh?
edit: i'm not a sport-climber (since there are no 5.2 sport routes/but i led my first 5.3 trad route last weekend so i'll be there someday).
but, i do recognize them (sport-climbers) as people to! ...just sayin'!
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 17, 2012 - 01:17am PT
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We use Omega steel wiregate carabiners in the gym. 8 years later and they are still showing little wear, and definitely no sharp edges.
fwiw
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 17, 2012 - 02:56am PT
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That's an interesting article for sure thanks for posting Rolfr. I guess the moral of the story is that as climbers we need to be aware & responsible. Look at gear & change a biner if u need to, I always have a few old ones in the bottom of my bag for such an occasion. The main thing I learned here though is to not buy a mammut rope cause they can break in falls as small as 2.7m.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 17, 2012 - 03:58am PT
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It's probly more likely that any rope break in that short of a fall where the forces can be highest.
Mammut Supersafe is one of the best wall ropes I've used. Many pitches, many falls and many sharp edges. I have one that's been up three walls and stil looks brand freakin new.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Nov 17, 2012 - 05:36am PT
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jungle chipmunks chew on the hardware to wear down their teeth,
anyways, carry on with the useless banter, im gonna fire up some oil, sit back and watch the dog and pony show,
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Nov 17, 2012 - 10:32am PT
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Some guy in Europe just died from this. I think it's a concern. I dont know why my biners wear smooth from normal use, and the fixed ones these guys used got a sharp edge. It's hard to imagine. I have some biners with sharp burrs on them or edges of cuts in the metal, from dragging up walls or across granite, I think. But I have never had one damage the rope.
Seems to me the people who climb in areas with fixed gear should organize to maintain them, like people do with fixed pins, or replacing bolts on el Cap.
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