Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 17, 2012 - 12:20am PT
Some interesting stuff from a post on Squamish Climbing
"In a recent study by Mammut, tests have show that some fixed carabiners (often found on steep sport crags) can be worn in to such a shape as to cut through your climbing rope in a fall as short as 2.7 metres.
Mammut is urgently calling for the immediate discontinuation of use and removal of permanently installed quick draws and carabiners in climbing areas. Irrespective of the manufacturer of such equipment, repeated wear can result in the formation of sharp edges capable of damaging or completely severing ropes, even in relatively small falls. Investigations by Mammut have shown that this known problem is actually far more dramatic than previously assumed and represents a very high risk for climbers."
Posting something like this more than once (2 threads) is worth doing. Make sure everyone gets the message. I mean, you (OP) missed it somehow, so there could be others also. Hopefully they will catch this one, cud save someones life, eh?
edit: i'm not a sport-climber (since there are no 5.2 sport routes/but i led my first 5.3 trad route last weekend so i'll be there someday).
but, i do recognize them (sport-climbers) as people to! ...just sayin'!
That's an interesting article for sure thanks for posting Rolfr. I guess the moral of the story is that as climbers we need to be aware & responsible. Look at gear & change a biner if u need to, I always have a few old ones in the bottom of my bag for such an occasion. The main thing I learned here though is to not buy a mammut rope cause they can break in falls as small as 2.7m.
Some guy in Europe just died from this. I think it's a concern. I dont know why my biners wear smooth from normal use, and the fixed ones these guys used got a sharp edge. It's hard to imagine. I have some biners with sharp burrs on them or edges of cuts in the metal, from dragging up walls or across granite, I think. But I have never had one damage the rope.
Seems to me the people who climb in areas with fixed gear should organize to maintain them, like people do with fixed pins, or replacing bolts on el Cap.
From my experience falling all over routes, all over the county, Iíve noticed three primary locations where fixed biners become badly grooved:
1) First Bolt
ē Belayers typically stand too far away from the wall. This results in a sharp angle in the rope from the belayer to the first biner and then up the route. When lowering a climber, the rope, often dirty and gritty, slowly wears a groove in the biner. Both incidents Iíve heard of where the rope was cut completely, it was the first bolt that was the culprit.
2) Crux Bolt
ē Many climbers being lowered off the same biner (falling at the crux onto the same bolt). This has the same effect as above. The sharp angle of the rope wrapping around the biner and the weight of the climber being lowered is what is allowing the rope to slowly cut through the biner.
3) Out of line bolts
ē Often if the bolt line isnít straight, an out-of-line biner can end up being grooved. Once again, this is caused by the rope and its angle running over the biner surface.