Evolv Defy and Evolv Bandit

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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
Enthusiast

Sport climber
Port Townsend WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 15, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
I'm trying to decide between the two, but with very limited experience I don't know which to choose. The only rock I've climbed is Chimacum Rock, which is volcanic, and absolutely LITTERED with huecos. There's one simple face climb as well without the pockets, and a few overhanging routes with small holds. So, with that information, which shoe would probably work best? Any other recommended shoes for a beginner?
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Nov 15, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
Buy whatever is on sale.
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Nov 15, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
Haven't climbed in the Bandit, but the Defy is pretty good for a price point shoe. I would expect the Bandit to be a bit stiffer and, therefor, better at edging. If you want with a more sensitive shoe like the Defy, I would recommend the Pontas. It's better made and I like the toe box shape a little bit more.

For a beginner people usually recommend a stiffer shoe, but I think either of those shoes would be great. Whichever you choose, size them comfortably, because they will not stretch. Good luck and have fun.
ChampionSleeper

Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
Nov 15, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
I normally like evolv, but really didn't care for the bandit.

I think something like the bandit is better suited for slab or crack climbing though. I'd prefer the 5.10 Moccasyms for either of those.

I like the Pontas for a tighter/sport shoe. It sounds like that is what you are after anyways.
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Nov 15, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
This may be irrelevant, but make sure they fit your foot. It seems like the Evolv shoes are designed for a squat, wide foot, with a square toe profile . . . not for longer, narrower feet.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Nov 15, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
Not an elephant at all. Very Germaine. Don't quit, get the fit.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Nov 15, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
Dunno which is better for the rock you've described, but the velcro will make for quick on/off, which will be nice if they're tight.

'Course, if you buy them from a place that guarantees satisfaction, you are at liberty to return them if you honestly don't like them.
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Nov 15, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
the defy fits my foot perfect; I tried the Evolv Pontis and it just wouldn't work, so I went back to Defy. YMMV
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