Patrick Edlinger


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Nov 17, 2012 - 12:16am PT
Very sorry to hear of Patrick's sudden passing today. The fact that an ST thread started about him two days ago is cosmic to say the least. What a shining star he was.

I was fortunate to have watched him from above free solo the Beaver Wall (in Josh) one fine sunny day in 1985. He cruised it in fine style and reversed the crux and climbed through it again. Just like Wolfie, he was a very nice guy. Sincere condolences to his family and friends.

Vive Le Blonde!
gonzo chemist

Fort Collins, CO
Nov 17, 2012 - 12:20am PT
wait...WTF? seriously? I had somehow heard of him when I started climbing (not all that long ago) and looked up some info on him. I watched some videos of him training on Bachar ladders and soloing in Verdon, and all I could think was, "holy sh#t...this guy was a game-changer."

sad day for the climbing world...


Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Nov 17, 2012 - 01:12am PT
I'm stunned. This thread shows up and now he's gone? Some mystic shee there.

RIP Patreek

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2012 - 02:04am PT
I am speechless. I don't know how this can be. Tuesday, my birthday I was feeling sorry for my aging self and Patrick E. came into my mind as I knew we were about the same age. I wondered how he was climbing these days. Couldn't shake the thought till the next day it brought me to post. I never post man, this is really stinks bad. Broken hearts for all I'm sure.

Gregg Olson

Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
Nov 17, 2012 - 04:41am PT
I saw this thread late Thursday night and I stayed up tell 4am watching all the vids posted here several times each.They brought back very specific memories of when I first started climbing in the early 80's... The dreams of moving like Patrick did, of training like he did, of living a life free and expressive as he did. I was mesmerized by his flow and confidence on the stone... something I gained, and have since lost. For a few hours last night while watching these vids I was transported back to those times, the feelings of what climbing meant to me, of what it was to put your intire being into a succession of moves and unlock the microcosms of flow and kinesthetic awareness, to dance on the vertical. It became clear that seeing Patrick climb back when I found the sport literally formed my perception of what it was to be a rock climber. Yetserday In those early Friday morning hours all the failures, all the successes, trips, friends, lovers etc.. were erased and I was brought back to that moment as a 14 year old kid when I saw these same videos and knew in my soul that I had found something that would forever change my life. I came back tonight for another dose and got this sad news. R.I.P. Patrick.

Nov 17, 2012 - 05:11am PT

RIP Patrick.

Sport climber
Nov 17, 2012 - 09:58am PT
Adieu Patrick Edlinger!

Trento 2009 interview:
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 17, 2012 - 10:43am PT
Well this just sucks.

I was talking about him 2 days ago!
Spoke with Jeff last night, wonder if he knows.

Sport climber
Nov 17, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
Double D

Nov 17, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
Sad indeed. He was a game changer for sure. Eery that it happened just a few days after this thread. My sincere condolences to his family and friends. Hopefully he's in a much better place.

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
hey guys, do me a favor and don't talk about me. Once it pops on the taco you end up dead like PE!

Rick D-I really wish you hadn't said that but now, yeah, I'm preparing an appreciation thread just for you.

I don't have anything more to add here so I hope those of you who knew Mr. Edlinger will turn this into a memorial thread.


Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Nov 17, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
Ego? Who cares? The lad could climb!

Credit: Ihateplastic


Social climber
Nov 17, 2012 - 05:13pm PT

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Nov 17, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
hearsay, but is was said:

The Frenchman, nicknamed "Le Blond" due to his thick blond hair held in place by a bandana, was found dead at his home in La Palud in the Verdon region, Provence. The cause of death is as yet unknown although his biographer wrote that he had an alcohol problem


Nov 17, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
So sad when two of the most brilliant climbers of that era pass away in their early 50s.
steve s

Trad climber
Nov 17, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
This is truly sad news.Patrick was the most gifted,smooth,and natural climber I ever had the privlage of tying in with. He was also a fun person to climb with as well as do a wee bit of partying with to boot. I had the good fortune of hangin with him in Boulder and Yosemite. I remember we often would go out to some bars in Boulder after climbing and shoot endless games of pool with him and Maurice.After one late nite session he gave me his Petzl harness because he thought mine was too big and heavy(it was a Frog Harness). He was always ready to offer advice to improve your climbing,such as telling me to splay my hips in order to get my weight more in over my feet on a certain 5.12 we were doing. Or in Yosemite once when we were bouldering and he had his eye on trying Midnight lightning he pronouced he would try it right along with me.One time climbing with him sticks out in my mind the most.....We went up to a steep route in the flatirons called The Guardian 5.12c ? Bob H. went first and Patrick made sure he did not watch so as to get the true on sight(I think we distracted him by smoking something funny) Then when patrick climbed it he made it look like 5.7,but when he got to the anchors he did not have a draw to clip in with(Bob had mistakenly threaded it and removed the draws at the anchor) So Patrick just shrugs his shoulders and proceeds to down climb the entire route removing the draws as he climbed back to the belay....once again making it look like 5.7 He truly loved to climb and it showed!!!
R.I.P. Patrick Edlinger (say hi to Derek for us) Peace.

Nov 17, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
Nice storys Steve S. thanks for sharing.

"But Patrick Edlinger also had demons. According to the writer Jean-Michel Asselin, who is working on a biography of the climber, it suffered from alcoholism. ..."

Wow, 52 years old. Way too young.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 17, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
Le Monde reports that he died at home, of unknown causes.

Nov 17, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
Why are you posting these links that are in french?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 17, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
Kenny, Hiker is only trying to help. Patrick died at home in the Verdon, you know. You can always use Google Translate, you know, or many different plugins or desktop tools if you don't read french. Most of the news results are in french so far. This is giant news, although at this point, mostly just abroad. Climbing has never really "taken off' here as it has in France and western Europe. As Gill just upthread implies, Edlinger and Bachar were similar grand masters and their departure is really effing depressing.

Again, what a loss, and how very sad such a great light should come to such an end.
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