Patrick Edlinger

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Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 15, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
From one of the books mentioned by Ron - Verdon Opera Verticale 1983
As I remember it, the names on everybodies lips when I started climbing 20-25 years ago were Lynn Hill, Catherine Destivelle and Patrick Edlinger. They are legends while still alive all three of them.

Forte Di Exilles 2002
Credit: Guy Delahaye
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 15, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
I climbed with Patrick back in the 80s at the Monument.
My photo is even in one of his books that he did about his tour here in the US in the 80s.

Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman

I saw him lead More Monkey than Funky,downclimb and clean it, and then turn around and solo it, up and Down!

It's a wonder you don't hear much about him anymore.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Nov 15, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
In the late 80's when I was living in Boulder and Patrick was on a visit I beat him out for the cover shot of an issue of Rocky Mountain Sports and Fitness magazine. First and last time I ever wore lycra for a climb. While I was climbing well that year, my guess is that the reason they chose me over Patrick is that he wanted to get paid :-)
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Nov 15, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
As I hope was clear, Patrick is and was a good man, and generous.
The "vain" reference has to do with inhibitions. He was a bit
uninhibited, in terms of being unafraid to walk naked through an apartment
with strangers. Maybe a French thing. Who knows?
I did not mean it to refer to some kind of huge ego,
though most who knew him at all would say he did have that, but not
in a very offensive way. I have mostly only good things to say about
my friend.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
If I could climb like that and knew it, I'd be a bit vain myself. No worries Patrick A.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Nov 16, 2012 - 05:44am PT
Our "Bible" in the eighties.
Our "Bible" in the eighties.
Credit: nutstory
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Nov 16, 2012 - 06:08am PT
I think that was the name of his cook/photographer, Gerard Kosicki...
And that photo upthread of the shoes, yes, those were the ones
he gave me. I climbed in them until they literally fell off my feet.
I loved them.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Nov 16, 2012 - 07:44am PT
Pat, it still would be a great privilege to get the design details and, maybe, some photos of the wooden active camming nut, the Clapper, made by David Rearick...
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
Nov 16, 2012 - 09:59am PT
check out this video must be early to mid 80's http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kxpYNwakOU&feature=watch-vrec

badass he hangs under roofs at two separate spots with one hand after climbing about 10 min on the first hang and 20 min on the second after sustained continous movement!
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Nov 16, 2012 - 11:16am PT
AKA, The Cat, I like the one arm pinky finger pull up in the Vidio.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 16, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
Vive Le Blond!

I still have that BD poster of him tucked, taut and poised on cream-colored quarrystone. I almost sent that poster with Mimi to hang in her office but it would just make the guys grumble and pout. LOL

I bet he is still groovin' to Songs in the Key of Life. It floated him to victory at Snowbird. A Wonderful spirit he has always been and a pleasure to watch move through the air.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
MountainLion. Yeah, that is pretty exciting when he hangs. Pretty sure that's the same video from the first post.

But I liked it just as much.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
Here's the one from SnoBird. The movie was edited so that it looks like he's climbing side by side against Wolfgang. That really gives it some perspective I believe.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RaBuNFl1mJM

Arne
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
And if you haven't seen this one, take the time. The opera music while he climbs barefoot. Nice.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B21ZD8Q_uJE
BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Nov 16, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
Coz I could say the same thing about you, Those early films of Edlinger were life changing. Took me years, but now I live in the south of France.
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Nov 16, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
I agree with Coz. I met Patrick in Eldorado one day, after a day of cragging with Derek Hersey. Derek and Patrick were old friends, if memory serves from previous visits of Patrick to the USA. Patrick was not speaking English, but through his traveling campanion he said that Eldorado was one of his favorite places to climb in the world.

He was friendly, enthusiastic, and very approachable. I found it very down to earth on his part that a Euro limestone superhero would travel to Boulder to climb in Eldo. Had there been a trace of arrogance, Derek would have picked up on it and razzed him somehow. As it stood, it was obvious that there was a lot of mutual respect between the two.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Nov 16, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
Nice to see those videos again!

For those of us hitting it in the late 70s and early/mid/late 80s he was a phenomenal player. On that trip which Ron speaks of in the early 90s, he was waiting for camera to get into position on Sphinx Crack and passed the time by lay backing up and down the thing!

His buddy Maurice, "Momo", is a hoot.

Those original, first generation Dolomite Edelinger rock shoes were stiff as boards out of the box; designed specifically for pocket poking. I could edge in them but little else. I can see how they'd be good for Eldorado after some break-in.

I asked Lynn about him not too long ago and while not disparaging, the report wasn't super great, although it sounds like he is still climbing when he wants to.

He effected a huge influence in world free climbing.
It's good to be young: long live the heroes of all generations!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 16, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
Verdon Opera Vertical 1983
Verdon Opera Vertical 1983
Credit: Brian in SLC
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 16, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
For some years during the late part of the 90ies Edlinger was the editor of Roc'n Wall.
Credit: Marlow

More about "La vie au bout des doigts", the book from Editions Guerin Chamonix that nutstory posted.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Nov 16, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
He definitely has style.
Another blast from the past is Ron Fawcett.
I once climbed with a guy who had climbed with Fawcett in Yosemite. He said that Ron's real strength was to be able to adjust to the rock in a new area and be climbing at the highest standard in just a few days.
Do these guys climb much these days?
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