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Messages 1 - 70 of total 70 in this topic |
alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
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greetings! I saw the thread "hey peter croft" where some folks were curious about some more scoop about the new route we completed this summer on angel wings....well here it is! The route is called Valkyrie, 16 pitches all free at 5.12. the 5.12 is a short wild bouldery (i.e. Peter's lead) move past a bolt, and the rest of the route is stacks of quality 5.10 with a few pitches of excellent 5.11 and one pitch of 5.8 slab on pitch one. Every anchor at the first 13 stations are set with 2 3/8" (hand drilled) bolts. The route is steep and the setting is spectacular with some memorable belay stances high on the wall. The story of finally completing the route is a fun one spanning many humorous attempts over the years and it felt SO good to pull over the top at last with such a fun and solid crew of friends...clearly an effort of blood, sweat and years! To the best of my knowledge to route loosely follows the original general area of the Steck route for the first half, then angles off into uncharted territory on the brilliant sweeping upper buttress. The details I suspect some of you are after will follow on this thread...have fun and enjoy! Cheers! Dave Nettle
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Nov 14, 2012 - 03:31pm PT
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Sounds stellar. Congrats!
Pics! Pics! Pics!
(Edit: thanks!)
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Nov 14, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
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That looks way awesome Dave - nice job to you guys. Hope to see you soon.
Paul
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ec
climber
ca
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Nov 14, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
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Right on, Dave!
ec
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 14, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
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Soooo sweet. Thx for the efforts, climbing and posting.
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Nov 14, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
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Awesome! Looks like beautiful, high quality stone! Thanks for putting up so many rad High Sierra routes! Still have yet to visit the Angel Wings.
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Nov 14, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
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That looks like a great route! I was back there in 1977 and I always wanted to get back there. Did your team use any packhorses or mules to get all your gear back there? I know some parties have done this but I recall hearing last year that horse packers were no longer operating out of Sequoia NP.
Thanks again for the topos & information.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 14, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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Congratulations!! Post any other photos you have, these are the threads many people look forward to reading on ST (especially during these cold months)!
Bravo!
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
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Nice to see a new route that utilizes the natural features like ledges and doesn't just run it out for 60 or 70m between bolted anchors.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 14, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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WOW looks sweet, thanks for all the info DAVE!!!
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The Alpine
climber
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Nov 14, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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Oh man! Thanks a ton for posting this stuff Dave!
The countdown to a repeat begins...
Levy: I know Cottonwood pack station was operational this past summer.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 14, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
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WOW!!!
So feckin' stellar!
Nice work guys!
That's the serious shizz right there!
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
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F'n badass
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
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Awesome! Congratulations to you guys, we look forward to seeing some on-route pictures!
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10b4me
Boulder climber
member since 2002
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Nov 14, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
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good job. looks like a nice line.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Nov 14, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
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Spectacular! Congratulations on another badass send!
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite, ca
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Nov 14, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
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Wow that looks amazing!!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Nov 14, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
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That whole Rock is amazing. Good job on your route...looks like an outrageous position. Frickin' cool, man.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Nov 14, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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Valkyrie - choosers of the slain!
I don't see slain written anywhere on this. :)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 14, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
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Um, WOW!!!!!
I can't even dream of a climb that hard!
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micronut
Trad climber
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Nov 14, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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Amazing route fellas! Congrats on a prize proudly fought for.
This thread needs Die Valkyrie playing while we scroll through the posts...we're all singin' it in our heads....
This will have to do.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 14, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
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Serious question. How easy is it to bail from the belay stations? Do those bolts have rings on them?
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
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very inspiring. Great adventure and love the sharing.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
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Sounds rather boring, except for the casual stroll into the clubhouse.
"NICE?!" Jaysus! Major fined.
"F'n bad-ass." Hoorah! Ku-Doze!
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
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Dave, thanks a lot for posting this and congratulations! The route looks amazing! I'm sure it's one of the best ones in your career (so far)!
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
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Congrats to you Dave and your partners! Looks like a great route! Sorry to be missing your slideshow tonight, I am rigging in Mexico, catch you later...
Peter
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Nov 14, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
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Do you guys need special shoes for that?
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Nov 14, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
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So fantastic!!!!! Thanks for this!!!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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Awesome Dave. Congrats to you, Pete, Brandon and Eppi.
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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Looks awesome. Since hiking back there I've always wanted to bring a rope next time I'm in the area. One of the most amazing places in the Sierra.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 15, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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Great show tonight Dave. Spectacular!
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
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Wow. A beautiful hard line on a stunning formation in the most beautiful area I've ever been. Thank you for sharing.
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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just getting back to this thread to answer a couple of questions that were asked:
Yes, a base camp at Hamilton Lake can be supported by having your gear packed in (and don't forget out!) by Mules. Charlie Mills at Horse Corral Meadows pack station is the man to contact. He bases the mule and packer charges on 1 1/2 days in and the same on the way out due to the long distance...though they get your gear in on the same day usually around mid day. We've been using mules to stock our base camp the last few times we've gone in there and it's great. A good tip, though, it not to start hauling a bunch of crap in there just because you have mules to shlep the load. More or less plan as if you had to carry it all, then throw in a few comforts like the beefy sleeping pad and a box of vino. The lighter loads saves you money and reduces number of mules going in. here's a picture of Brooke, who was one of our packers this last time...not your typical chew spittin' rough-neck!
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
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The other question I recall out there was about rapping the route. Valkyrie is set up with bolted anchors at each belay station up to pitch 13, with a good percentage of those stations on a good ledge. The route can be descended pretty easily from the top of pitch 12 (the "crusty orange ledge") with 2 60 meter ropes. You skip station 11 (only 1 bolt and off to the side) It is possible, but difficult to rap from station 13 as it's at the end of a long traverse with a lot of features a pulled rope can hang up on...plus at that point you're home free...
The anchors are bomber, but not ring style hangers. As of September 2012 all the rappel anchors from pitch 12 down are slung with super-tape and either a rap-ring or carabiners in place. We fixed the route on this last time so that Epi could jug alongside and shoot the ascent. Should be some great pix. Not sure when or where he'll publish them, but there's talk of Peter writing a piece for Alpinist with Epi's images to come out next summer.
photo attached of station 13 bolts at end of a day that we established 6 new pitches and I hand drilled over 12 3/8" x 2 1/4" bolts for belay stations and a few lead protection bolts...yikes! Frazzled Forearms!
cheers!
Dave
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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This is just an estimate and I think Charlie may have to raise his prices in the future but I recall about $225 for the packer and horse, then $125 for each mule. the mules can carry about 55 kilo's each, though bulky items can take up room and cut into the load. Those are per day prices so multiply that by 1.5 if you're figuring on Hamilton Lake. This summer we used 4 mules in and 3 mules out. Our cost for going in was $1250 or about 300 bucks each in and a bit less coming out.
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Borut
climber
french, spider
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Nov 17, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
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Bravo!
TFPU!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Nov 17, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
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If you got bucks there is a very nice tent-hotel only 4 miles away:
http://www.visitsequoia.com/bearpaw.aspx
Hamilton Lake campground can get pretty crowded since it is a prime stop on the High Sierra Trail. I noticed several nice areas to camp between the waterfall and Hamilton Lake. You'd need bear canisters for the food for sure. There is a real nice bench opposite the 'Wings near the trail.
The trail in from Crescent Meadow is by far the best. If you are having permit troubles you can also enter via Wolverton. If you are bold you could go cross country via Pear Lake, Moose Lake etc. but that would not be fast. You can also get to Angel Wings via Mineral King in almost the same distance (15 miles) but there is much more elevation gain and loss. Three different trail heads from Mineral King would get you there. Crossing the Kaweah at high water below Bearpaw meadow is... adventurous.
My mind was suitably blown when Peter mentioned on the other thread that he an Andy "day tripped" it. 30-36 miles hiking plus a major grade VI wall!
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
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Yo Spider, some good info on your comments in the thread...lot's of ways to get into that part of the Great Western Divide and a lot of great climbing once you get there!
Just to clarify though, Peter and Andrew's one day "car to car" climb mentioned on the other thread was referring to his recent dash in to Merriam Peak to do two routes in a day on that peak (routes he had previously established, about 6 pitches each I believe..). Clearly still a rocking hard day and I'm certain that Valkyrie will be a prime contender to get a car to car ascent since the 16 pitches are straightforward and the hike (though 16 miles) is relatively mild with a light pack. I might go so far as to say I;d rather hike in with a rack and rope for a one day blitz of Valkyrie than hump an overnight load in there....hmmmm sounds fun!
cheers!
Dave
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Nov 17, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
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My dad was with Steck on the FA of the original route. It was left of yours pretty much the whole way, finishing in the big chimney system. It looks like you might have shared one pitch #9. They made a movie of that climb that's quite vintage and cool to see. I'll ask Steck if it's digitized - I suspect not.
Michael Graber and Eric Brand and I tried to do their route free in 85ish and got up about 5-6 pitches when Eric ended up leading a bottoming seam and using copperheads etc...and eventually took a long fall....we bailed shortly thereafter.
Great job on this ! That wall is big and proud.
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Nov 17, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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gotta share this.....
I was the manager out at Bearpaw High Sierra Camp this past summer and heard that Nettle and Croft were in the area from some trail crew buds. Me and my crew of 4 were working hard all summer busting out delicious meals and fresh baked goods to our awesome guests in the backcountry. A few of us on the crew were climbers, and I personally was stoked to hear that Croft and Nettle were close by.
Late season we went out to climb the North Arete of Hamilton Dome, directly accross canyon from the Angel Wings. Supposed to be 6 pitches of 5.7. We spotted an easy rap off. Felt pretty good about it all. Went halfway up to where the route steepened and we got bit off route. I bailed on lead twice on some hard 5.10 loose climbing. Had to get lowered from sketchy slings. Later, at camp, we found out we were on North Arete left side 5.10(described in Secors). My partner was not into leading through it so we thought about bailing the route. 'Should we stay or should we go now' was running through my head but then I asked 'What would Croft do?' and went up a third time through a roof section that felt 10d. I felt this huge rush of adrenaline and topped the pitch out to a nice ledge. We did a few more moderate pitches, topped out and rapped all before sunset. Awesome summit register with very little activity in the last 12 years. Only counted about 10 or 12 names total. Dave, saw your name in there twice. Huge inspiration felt from the nearby team of Croft & Nettle and so glad to get it all done. I later found out that Thau and Epperson were involved which is even more awesome. Thanks for doing what you guys do!
Oh and by the way, Brooke the packer dropped off a lot of loads for us too. Something special that one! Didn't see her put a dip in once.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Nov 17, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
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SOLID!!! I'm bummed I missed your slides a few night ago. Thanks for posting. Cheers mate!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nov 18, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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Wow! Awesome guys! Nice work. Looks like a gem!!!
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2012 - 11:07am PT
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On this last trip to the Wings, when we finally completed the route, Epi did essentially all the photography and I really don't have many "on route" images. This one is taken of Peter just pulling up onto "Chiclet Towers" at the top of the 13th with Greg in full "jug and shoot" mode.
I'll see if I can dig up some shots from our previous trips back there to post.
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The Alpine
climber
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Nov 19, 2012 - 11:42am PT
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yeeeeee hawww!
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noriko nakagawa
Trad climber
eldorado springs co
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Nov 29, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
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Great line and topos/photos. Congrats and thanks for sharing!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Nov 29, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
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if you did a car-to-car, you couldn't have brooke pack your gear.
as best i can tell, that's one of the high points.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 29, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
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this is great stuff, thanks for posting up.
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seneca
climber
jamais, jamais pays
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Nov 29, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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Well done. Thanks for the post-up and pictures.
How much do you love climbing in the Sierras.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Nov 29, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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What an awesome place this must be, thanks for the info and the stoke!
Looks like a well-developed trail below, as well. :)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Nov 29, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
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Is the line that continues up the obvious corner halfway up already established? Why break out right?
Must be a pre-established route? Nice route, guys!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 29, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
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So sick! What a route, what a formation! Good job and thanks!
Full stoker.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
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standard issue bolts at belay stations on Valkyrie
I've been researching the art - including the state of art - of bolting lately. What is the "standard issue" in the high sierra these days? Are the bolts in your pic (last page) SS or something other? Are your hangers SS? Thanks!
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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just dipping back into this thread with a cool photo that david wilson shared showing the original line on the main wall that was established in 1965 by Steck, Dick Long and Jim Wilson and his dad. The red line is our new line on Valkyrie, the green dots are the original aid line and the red dots to the left is the line that David Wilson, Mike Graber and Eric Brand (solid team!) attempted to free in '85 or so...they were thwarted by having to revert to a significant amount of aid and decided to abandon the attempt as their goal was an all free line.
To address a question a few reply's back about going into the obvious cleft at the halfway point...we chose to avoid it because it was already part of the original line, the buttress looked sweet and the corner was loose and scrappy.
at the point where our route cuts right and the original line heads into the cleft is a large sloped grassy alcove called "upper bear paw meadows" where we found some old rusted cans from Steck and crew's bivvy...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Cool, congrats again! I thought your line shared more pitches with the old one, but it looks like you split off right at the beginning. Someday...
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
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in reply to wondering about "standard bolting practices" it's important to note that "state of the art" is not always the overriding criteria. I just recently watched a video interview of Patrick Edlinger (RIP) filmed a few years ago recounting his early days. When asked why many of his early routes were so run out he replied simply that they didnt have any money to buy bolts!
With Valkyrie, when you climb it, you'll be treated to a "clip" along memory lane with an historical assortment of bolts reflecting the various attempts over the years as well as the availability and or changes in bolting gear over the past 2 decades.
Lower on the route you'll find a few 1/4" buttonheads in good shape, a couple 5/16" sleeve bolts (a short lived alternative during the lean years when rawl stopped producing buttonheads and before fixe did..), a couple 5/16" buttonheads and (thankfully) mostly 3/8" x 2 1/4 redheads with fixe hangers..some SS and some plated, but I'm guessing your grandkids will be much happier clipping "old" 3/8" sinkers than we are now clipping manky old 1/4" spinners!
Anyone wishing to replace bolts (that need it) on a route I've put up is always welcome to in the style of the original placement (ie hand drilled). Not so stoked about chopping or adding though..but that's another thread I'm sure! Ha!
enjoy!
Dave
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Looks killer! Great job!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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I was set to have dinner with Steck, Long and my dad tonight but the bad weather kept Long up in Carson city. Their ascent was 1967, just two years after Steck and Long came off the Hummingbird ridge. Those guys were on their game. I'll try to get more beta from the silverbacks when I see them. Their route seems ahead of its time for back country walls.
Our attempt was in the mid 80's. I think we were on the red dots on the left in the pic above. We arrived at the big ledge ( marked in the pic ) all free. Then what looked good from below turned into seams. Eric led off on a pitch above that ledge and pulled out all the tricks, tied off blades, copperheads, hooks etc.......He had come off a bunch of badass EC routes, so he was fine with the turn of events.
Three or four hours into his lead, Graber and I were pretty relaxed, jawboning at the belay, watching a mother bear and her cubs in the talus below. We heard a ping and down Eric came, maybe 50' or more, ending right at the level of the belay about 20 feet to the side. Our conversation abruptly interrupted, Eric looked over and delivered a cool "watch the slack dude " then finished the pitch. We got up under the overhanging slot in the pic and that looked like more aid as well. The whole endeavor had gone from a free climb to a hard aid route and we weren't there for that.
Awesome you guys pulled this route off all free !
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 09:46am PT
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Oh yeah. That was our original "target"...sweeping out onto the upper buttress right above the roofs. but like a lot of Angel Wings real estate, looks can be deceiving... And if you want to snoop around out there, there's a bolted belay station and a few lead bolts leading out there into the void... That direction was abandoned due to very poor rock, and discontinuous features. Peter headed up there and had a couple hours of touch and go just finding a place to wiggle in a shitty cam to lower off of...I;ve never seen him more relieved to be off of something...enough said in my book.
Although the line looks like it avoids good features around pitch 8-9 that's actually one of the more enjoyable sections of the route with steep crafty face climbing into hidden flares and features. No doubt this wall can and will sprout variations along the way, but we were just stoked to connect a continuous, quality line and scamper back to Hamilton Lake for sunset and a mug or two of vino..
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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What an incredibly refreshing and inspiring thread. Great work, guys! This is what it's all about!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Great looking line! Congrats to the team for the fulfillment of the years-long effort.
Three or four hours into his lead, Graber and I were pretty relaxed, jawboning at the belay, watching a mother bear and her cubs in the talus below. We heard a ping and down Eric came, maybe 50' or more, ending right at the level of the belay about 20 feet to the side. Our conversation abruptly interrupted, Eric looked over and delivered a cool "watch the slack dude " then finished the pitch.
That is really funny, Dave!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Dave has apparently found the anti-aging secret. He hasn't change much over the years...well except for losing the mustache:)
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Oct 11, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
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I highly recommend checking out Alpinist 44 for a quality Peter Croft article about the route.
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