Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 14, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
greetings! I saw the thread "hey peter croft" where some folks were curious about some more scoop about the new route we completed this summer on angel wings....well here it is! The route is called Valkyrie, 16 pitches all free at 5.12. the 5.12 is a short wild bouldery (i.e. Peter's lead) move past a bolt, and the rest of the route is stacks of quality 5.10 with a few pitches of excellent 5.11 and one pitch of 5.8 slab on pitch one. Every anchor at the first 13 stations are set with 2 3/8" (hand drilled) bolts. The route is steep and the setting is spectacular with some memorable belay stances high on the wall. The story of finally completing the route is a fun one spanning many humorous attempts over the years and it felt SO good to pull over the top at last with such a fun and solid crew of friends...clearly an effort of blood, sweat and years! To the best of my knowledge to route loosely follows the original general area of the Steck route for the first half, then angles off into uncharted territory on the brilliant sweeping upper buttress. The details I suspect some of you are after will follow on this thread...have fun and enjoy! Cheers! Dave Nettle
don't take this too seriously...just for fun, but it does capture the norse theme of angel wings/valhalla and there were times I could swear this gal was after us up there! Ha!
another view of angel wings and Valkyrie route showing the overall steepness of the wall. the route follows the right skyline of the main wall ...the south arete is tucked up in the clouds the the right of main wall.
That looks like a great route! I was back there in 1977 and I always wanted to get back there. Did your team use any packhorses or mules to get all your gear back there? I know some parties have done this but I recall hearing last year that horse packers were no longer operating out of Sequoia NP.
Congratulations!! Post any other photos you have, these are the threads many people look forward to reading on ST (especially during these cold months)!
Bravo!
Congrats to you Dave and your partners! Looks like a great route! Sorry to be missing your slideshow tonight, I am rigging in Mexico, catch you later...
just getting back to this thread to answer a couple of questions that were asked:
Yes, a base camp at Hamilton Lake can be supported by having your gear packed in (and don't forget out!) by Mules. Charlie Mills at Horse Corral Meadows pack station is the man to contact. He bases the mule and packer charges on 1 1/2 days in and the same on the way out due to the long distance...though they get your gear in on the same day usually around mid day. We've been using mules to stock our base camp the last few times we've gone in there and it's great. A good tip, though, it not to start hauling a bunch of crap in there just because you have mules to shlep the load. More or less plan as if you had to carry it all, then throw in a few comforts like the beefy sleeping pad and a box of vino. The lighter loads saves you money and reduces number of mules going in. here's a picture of Brooke, who was one of our packers this last time...not your typical chew spittin' rough-neck!
Brooke wrangling mules into Angel Wings base camp before the ascent of Valkyrie
By the way, next time anyones thinking of going into the bugaboos / applebee camp the same thing is available, with human porters from the CMH lodge. I think its about 100 $ for fifty pounds or so.
Very worth doing if you like to have martini's and steaks for the barbie after a day of climbing.
The other question I recall out there was about rapping the route. Valkyrie is set up with bolted anchors at each belay station up to pitch 13, with a good percentage of those stations on a good ledge. The route can be descended pretty easily from the top of pitch 12 (the "crusty orange ledge") with 2 60 meter ropes. You skip station 11 (only 1 bolt and off to the side) It is possible, but difficult to rap from station 13 as it's at the end of a long traverse with a lot of features a pulled rope can hang up on...plus at that point you're home free...
The anchors are bomber, but not ring style hangers. As of September 2012 all the rappel anchors from pitch 12 down are slung with super-tape and either a rap-ring or carabiners in place. We fixed the route on this last time so that Epi could jug alongside and shoot the ascent. Should be some great pix. Not sure when or where he'll publish them, but there's talk of Peter writing a piece for Alpinist with Epi's images to come out next summer.
photo attached of station 13 bolts at end of a day that we established 6 new pitches and I hand drilled over 12 3/8" x 2 1/4" bolts for belay stations and a few lead protection bolts...yikes! Frazzled Forearms!
cheers!
Dave
standard issue bolts at belay stations on Valkyrie.
This is just an estimate and I think Charlie may have to raise his prices in the future but I recall about $225 for the packer and horse, then $125 for each mule. the mules can carry about 55 kilo's each, though bulky items can take up room and cut into the load. Those are per day prices so multiply that by 1.5 if you're figuring on Hamilton Lake. This summer we used 4 mules in and 3 mules out. Our cost for going in was $1250 or about 300 bucks each in and a bit less coming out.
Hamilton Lake campground can get pretty crowded since it is a prime stop on the High Sierra Trail. I noticed several nice areas to camp between the waterfall and Hamilton Lake. You'd need bear canisters for the food for sure. There is a real nice bench opposite the 'Wings near the trail.
The trail in from Crescent Meadow is by far the best. If you are having permit troubles you can also enter via Wolverton. If you are bold you could go cross country via Pear Lake, Moose Lake etc. but that would not be fast. You can also get to Angel Wings via Mineral King in almost the same distance (15 miles) but there is much more elevation gain and loss. Three different trail heads from Mineral King would get you there. Crossing the Kaweah at high water below Bearpaw meadow is... adventurous.
My mind was suitably blown when Peter mentioned on the other thread that he an Andy "day tripped" it. 30-36 miles hiking plus a major grade VI wall!
Yo Spider, some good info on your comments in the thread...lot's of ways to get into that part of the Great Western Divide and a lot of great climbing once you get there!
Just to clarify though, Peter and Andrew's one day "car to car" climb mentioned on the other thread was referring to his recent dash in to Merriam Peak to do two routes in a day on that peak (routes he had previously established, about 6 pitches each I believe..). Clearly still a rocking hard day and I'm certain that Valkyrie will be a prime contender to get a car to car ascent since the 16 pitches are straightforward and the hike (though 16 miles) is relatively mild with a light pack. I might go so far as to say I;d rather hike in with a rack and rope for a one day blitz of Valkyrie than hump an overnight load in there....hmmmm sounds fun!
My dad was with Steck on the FA of the original route. It was left of yours pretty much the whole way, finishing in the big chimney system. It looks like you might have shared one pitch #9. They made a movie of that climb that's quite vintage and cool to see. I'll ask Steck if it's digitized - I suspect not.
Michael Graber and Eric Brand and I tried to do their route free in 85ish and got up about 5-6 pitches when Eric ended up leading a bottoming seam and using copperheads etc...and eventually took a long fall....we bailed shortly thereafter.
gotta share this.....
I was the manager out at Bearpaw High Sierra Camp this past summer and heard that Nettle and Croft were in the area from some trail crew buds. Me and my crew of 4 were working hard all summer busting out delicious meals and fresh baked goods to our awesome guests in the backcountry. A few of us on the crew were climbers, and I personally was stoked to hear that Croft and Nettle were close by.
Late season we went out to climb the North Arete of Hamilton Dome, directly accross canyon from the Angel Wings. Supposed to be 6 pitches of 5.7. We spotted an easy rap off. Felt pretty good about it all. Went halfway up to where the route steepened and we got bit off route. I bailed on lead twice on some hard 5.10 loose climbing. Had to get lowered from sketchy slings. Later, at camp, we found out we were on North Arete left side 5.10(described in Secors). My partner was not into leading through it so we thought about bailing the route. 'Should we stay or should we go now' was running through my head but then I asked 'What would Croft do?' and went up a third time through a roof section that felt 10d. I felt this huge rush of adrenaline and topped the pitch out to a nice ledge. We did a few more moderate pitches, topped out and rapped all before sunset. Awesome summit register with very little activity in the last 12 years. Only counted about 10 or 12 names total. Dave, saw your name in there twice. Huge inspiration felt from the nearby team of Croft & Nettle and so glad to get it all done. I later found out that Thau and Epperson were involved which is even more awesome. Thanks for doing what you guys do!
Oh and by the way, Brooke the packer dropped off a lot of loads for us too. Something special that one! Didn't see her put a dip in once.
On this last trip to the Wings, when we finally completed the route, Epi did essentially all the photography and I really don't have many "on route" images. This one is taken of Peter just pulling up onto "Chiclet Towers" at the top of the 13th with Greg in full "jug and shoot" mode.
I'll see if I can dig up some shots from our previous trips back there to post.
peter croft pulling up onto chiclet towers, pitch 13 on Valkyrie. greg epperson decked out for action, having just jugged the route and photographed Peter and Brandon's entire ascent to this point.
standard issue bolts at belay stations on Valkyrie
I've been researching the art - including the state of art - of bolting lately. What is the "standard issue" in the high sierra these days? Are the bolts in your pic (last page) SS or something other? Are your hangers SS? Thanks!
just dipping back into this thread with a cool photo that david wilson shared showing the original line on the main wall that was established in 1965 by Steck, Dick Long and Jim Wilson and his dad. The red line is our new line on Valkyrie, the green dots are the original aid line and the red dots to the left
Angel Wings Main Wall showing (L to R) wilson, graber, brand attempt 1985 w red dots/original steck et al aid line 1965 w green/nettle, croft, thau Valkyrie 2012 w red line
Credit: alpinist
is the line that David Wilson, Mike Graber and Eric Brand (solid team!) attempted to free in '85 or so...they were thwarted by having to revert to a significant amount of aid and decided to abandon the attempt as their goal was an all free line.
To address a question a few reply's back about going into the obvious cleft at the halfway point...we chose to avoid it because it was already part of the original line, the buttress looked sweet and the corner was loose and scrappy.
at the point where our route cuts right and the original line heads into the cleft is a large sloped grassy alcove called "upper bear paw meadows" where we found some old rusted cans from Steck and crew's bivvy...
in reply to wondering about "standard bolting practices" it's important to note that "state of the art" is not always the overriding criteria. I just recently watched a video interview of Patrick Edlinger (RIP) filmed a few years ago recounting his early days. When asked why many of his early routes were so run out he replied simply that they didnt have any money to buy bolts!
With Valkyrie, when you climb it, you'll be treated to a "clip" along memory lane with an historical assortment of bolts reflecting the various attempts over the years as well as the availability and or changes in bolting gear over the past 2 decades.
Lower on the route you'll find a few 1/4" buttonheads in good shape, a couple 5/16" sleeve bolts (a short lived alternative during the lean years when rawl stopped producing buttonheads and before fixe did..), a couple 5/16" buttonheads and (thankfully) mostly 3/8" x 2 1/4 redheads with fixe hangers..some SS and some plated, but I'm guessing your grandkids will be much happier clipping "old" 3/8" sinkers than we are now clipping manky old 1/4" spinners!
Anyone wishing to replace bolts (that need it) on a route I've put up is always welcome to in the style of the original placement (ie hand drilled). Not so stoked about chopping or adding though..but that's another thread I'm sure! Ha!
dave nettle engaging in "new route therapy" on Angel Wings in 2009...about halfway up Valkyrie
I was set to have dinner with Steck, Long and my dad tonight but the bad weather kept Long up in Carson city. Their ascent was 1967, just two years after Steck and Long came off the Hummingbird ridge. Those guys were on their game. I'll try to get more beta from the silverbacks when I see them. Their route seems ahead of its time for back country walls.
Our attempt was in the mid 80's. I think we were on the red dots on the left in the pic above. We arrived at the big ledge ( marked in the pic ) all free. Then what looked good from below turned into seams. Eric led off on a pitch above that ledge and pulled out all the tricks, tied off blades, copperheads, hooks etc.......He had come off a bunch of badass EC routes, so he was fine with the turn of events.
Three or four hours into his lead, Graber and I were pretty relaxed, jawboning at the belay, watching a mother bear and her cubs in the talus below. We heard a ping and down Eric came, maybe 50' or more, ending right at the level of the belay about 20 feet to the side. Our conversation abruptly interrupted, Eric looked over and delivered a cool "watch the slack dude " then finished the pitch. We got up under the overhanging slot in the pic and that looked like more aid as well. The whole endeavor had gone from a free climb to a hard aid route and we weren't there for that.
Oh yeah. That was our original "target"...sweeping out onto the upper buttress right above the roofs. but like a lot of Angel Wings real estate, looks can be deceiving... And if you want to snoop around out there, there's a bolted belay station and a few lead bolts leading out there into the void... That direction was abandoned due to very poor rock, and discontinuous features. Peter headed up there and had a couple hours of touch and go just finding a place to wiggle in a shitty cam to lower off of...I;ve never seen him more relieved to be off of something...enough said in my book.
Although the line looks like it avoids good features around pitch 8-9 that's actually one of the more enjoyable sections of the route with steep crafty face climbing into hidden flares and features. No doubt this wall can and will sprout variations along the way, but we were just stoked to connect a continuous, quality line and scamper back to Hamilton Lake for sunset and a mug or two of vino..
Great looking line! Congrats to the team for the fulfillment of the years-long effort.
Three or four hours into his lead, Graber and I were pretty relaxed, jawboning at the belay, watching a mother bear and her cubs in the talus below. We heard a ping and down Eric came, maybe 50' or more, ending right at the level of the belay about 20 feet to the side. Our conversation abruptly interrupted, Eric looked over and delivered a cool "watch the slack dude " then finished the pitch.
With all the possibilities on that formation, combined with the size, there should be lots of free routes. I've always thought that just from photos, but the rock quality factor is the wild card, I guess.
The whole formation is one of the most inspiring in the Sierra for sure.
ec
Let us know!