Angel Wings new route...the scoop!

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alpinist

Trad climber
tahoe city
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 14, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
greetings! I saw the thread "hey peter croft" where some folks were curious about some more scoop about the new route we completed this summer on angel wings....well here it is! The route is called Valkyrie, 16 pitches all free at 5.12. the 5.12 is a short wild bouldery (i.e. Peter's lead) move past a bolt, and the rest of the route is stacks of quality 5.10 with a few pitches of excellent 5.11 and one pitch of 5.8 slab on pitch one. Every anchor at the first 13 stations are set with 2 3/8" (hand drilled) bolts. The route is steep and the setting is spectacular with some memorable belay stances high on the wall. The story of finally completing the route is a fun one spanning many humorous attempts over the years and it felt SO good to pull over the top at last with such a fun and solid crew of friends...clearly an effort of blood, sweat and years! To the best of my knowledge to route loosely follows the original general area of the Steck route for the first half, then angles off into uncharted territory on the brilliant sweeping upper buttress. The details I suspect some of you are after will follow on this thread...have fun and enjoy! Cheers! Dave Nettle
alpinist

Trad climber
tahoe city
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
Angel Wings: Valkyrie Nettle/Croft/Thau/Epperson September 3, 2012
Angel Wings: Valkyrie Nettle/Croft/Thau/Epperson September 3, 2012
Credit: alpinist
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
Sounds stellar. Congrats!

Pics! Pics! Pics!
(Edit: thanks!)
alpinist

Trad climber
tahoe city
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
Topo:Dave Nettle
Topo:Dave Nettle
Credit: alpinist
alpinist

Trad climber
tahoe city
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
topo: dave nettle
topo: dave nettle
Credit: alpinist
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
That looks way awesome Dave - nice job to you guys. Hope to see you soon.

Paul
ec

climber
ca
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
Right on, Dave!

 ec
alpinist

Trad climber
tahoe city
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
don't take this too seriously...just for fun, but it does capture the ...
don't take this too seriously...just for fun, but it does capture the norse theme of angel wings/valhalla and there were times I could swear this gal was after us up there! Ha!
Credit: alpinist
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
Soooo sweet. Thx for the efforts, climbing and posting.
alpinist

Trad climber
tahoe city
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
rough draft!
rough draft!
Credit: alpinist
lucho

Trad climber
California
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
Awesome! Looks like beautiful, high quality stone! Thanks for putting up so many rad High Sierra routes! Still have yet to visit the Angel Wings.
alpinist

Trad climber
tahoe city
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
peter, brandon and dave..summit of angel wings after FA Valkyrie 9/3/2...
peter, brandon and dave..summit of angel wings after FA Valkyrie 9/3/2012
Credit: alpinist
alpinist

Trad climber
tahoe city
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
another view of angel wings and Valkyrie route showing the overall ste...
another view of angel wings and Valkyrie route showing the overall steepness of the wall. the route follows the right skyline of the main wall ...the south arete is tucked up in the clouds the the right of main wall.
Credit: alpinist
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
That looks like a great route! I was back there in 1977 and I always wanted to get back there. Did your team use any packhorses or mules to get all your gear back there? I know some parties have done this but I recall hearing last year that horse packers were no longer operating out of Sequoia NP.

Thanks again for the topos & information.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
Congratulations!! Post any other photos you have, these are the threads many people look forward to reading on ST (especially during these cold months)!
Bravo!
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
Nice to see a new route that utilizes the natural features like ledges and doesn't just run it out for 60 or 70m between bolted anchors.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Nov 14, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
WOW looks sweet, thanks for all the info DAVE!!!
The Alpine

climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
Oh man! Thanks a ton for posting this stuff Dave!

The countdown to a repeat begins...

Levy: I know Cottonwood pack station was operational this past summer.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Nov 14, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
WOW!!!

So feckin' stellar!

Nice work guys!

That's the serious shizz right there!
QITNL

climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
Cool!
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