Discussion Topic |
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:30am PT
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I know this is primarily a rock climbing website (and I do prefer the dry and sunny myself) but for us bacon-loving, syrup-drinking, igloo-dwelling, beer-swilling, chainsaw-toting, plaid-clad frozen neighbors up North here in Canaduh, the icy months hold their own beauty.
October brings the sounds of picks being filed, crampons and ice screws sharpened, Oh yes it would seem ice climbing season is coming!
November just came (oh did she?) and I'm looking at a slow winter for work. I have a ski touring trip planned for February out near Revelstoke and I'm already going to be in the rockies. I'm hoping to drive out a few weeks earlier or stay a few weeks later. I missed out on most of last years ice season and really don't want to do the same again.
I'm a mediocre ice climber at best but I do find the joy and beauty in the suffering. There is just something amazing about a pure sheet of ice...
And in Ice climbing a good partner is essential, someone to help keep the spirits high when the temps are loooow...
and to keep the mood light even when it gets serious...
So come on, post up some old photos, or new photos to get the stoke going. Anything from bluebird warm ice days to bitter nasty headlamp epics. Lets get some stoke going for the dark frozen months of winter!
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Nov 14, 2012 - 07:34am PT
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Yes there can be ice in So.IL[photoid=273744].
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 14, 2012 - 07:45am PT
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I learned early on that ice climbing is for psycho nut cases. so I didn't do very much water ice. Limited my play time to alpine ice, but did some 1-2 pitch water ice free solos in Lee Vining. I stand in awe of good ice climbers.
Alpine ice
15,000 feet with full packs on Denali
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
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I like the thin photos Cragman!
Good shot of fang and fist above, looks eerily similar to the one in my guidebook...
I will have to dig up some more photos, yes ice climbers are a different kind of crazy! I sat roadside one time and watched a sponsored climber aid the ice roof on Curtain Call (upper had broken off) and then truck up the top pitch. Watched from the road with bino's, impressive stuff!
Oddly enough, it was ice climbing that got me into skiing, I didn't want to keep postholing across frozen lakes for hours just to get to the ice.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Nov 14, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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wool knickers mandatory with Stanfield's long underwear underneath
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 14, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
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10b4me
Boulder climber
member since 2002
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Nov 14, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 14, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
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fat-n-sassy
Social climber
San Francity, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 14, 2012 - 11:36pm PT
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Some really bad photos of some really good times, back in the dark ages.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Nov 15, 2012 - 12:33am PT
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Awesome topic!
Some pics of Vegas this year.
Good times.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 15, 2012 - 01:01am PT
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Nice shots on the Hose Monster Wes! What month was that?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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changed a lot...
California ice climber approach vehicle at sunset, 2012:
Massachusetts ice climber approach vehicle, probably morning, 1985:
modern ice gear:
early 1990s kit:
(four ice screws and 5 draws... good to go!)
actually climbing, happens to be on ice
classic "X" right out of Chouinard's book (pre-leash days)
everyone's doing it!
only people on the hill that February day in 1992
posted this before... but why not in this thread too!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Nov 15, 2012 - 07:57am PT
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T2
That was 2-18-12.
When were you there? Looks Fat in your pics! But still the column broke? Whip much? Looks cool thanks for the pics! Glad you are OK.
Wes
PS Where is the Weeping Wall? I want to go there!
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steve shea
climber
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Nov 15, 2012 - 10:56am PT
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Hey Ed that was great! Brought back memories from that route. Ames and routes like it were quite an adventure back then. Glenwood Canyon also had some wild stuff as well as Ouray and Telluride. We took what we learned there to the mountains. Just imagine Ames and Bridalveil type routes plastered on to big alpine faces! That is some good clean living! Nice Ed!
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Nov 15, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
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I agree, that knowing the frozen stuff is forming makes this a very exciting time of the year for those inclined.
Of course, the frozen stuff takes many different forms.
And tuning up on these during the wonderful winter season,
makes the approach to these somewhat less nauseating.
Still, climbing the big ice faces of the Andes is typically engaging, with plenty of tenuousness hanging above.
It does give those of us, that need a little frozeness in the middle of summer a chance to get our yayas out.
To a rockclimber that cannot relate, yes the movement can be repetitive. But the ice experience is so varied, that each day out is never the same. This is why I chase after it, between rock climbs, all during the year.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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But the ice experience is so varied, that each day out is never the same.
That's why you can get an FA everyday! Joking really but it's almost like that.
Love ice climbing almost more than rock climbing. I definitely get a better rush doing it. Leading ice is the wildest!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 16, 2012 - 09:42am PT
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T2
That was 2-18-12.
When were you there? Looks Fat in your pics! But still the column broke? Whip much? Looks cool thanks for the pics! Glad you are OK.
Wes
PS Where is the Weeping Wall? I want to go there!
Wes I can't remember the exact year but it was like in 05' or 06 maybe 07' I do remember it was in Feb just can't place the year. (if your reading this E what year was it?)that Erik Erikkson, Bill Russel and I attempted it. It was in what E and I thought was in "Fat conditions." I had no hesitation when it was my lead on the second pitch, in fact I was quite stoked thinking it was in stellar shape. First or second swing of my tool the whole column shifted, wobbled and nearly fell on me. You can see the nice size chunk that did fall fall off in the pic.
The weeping wall is on the Ice Fields parkway in Alberta Canada. I must visit destination for all that like to climb frozen water.
Nice job ticking the Hose Monster Wes! I still want that one even though it scared me silly when we tried it.
Ed I like the photo of the California approach vehicle. I have always said it is hard (and expensive) to try and be a Ice Climber and live in So Cal. You got to want it. I try and a least do a couple trips each season.
Most my shots are reposts but hell here a couple more
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John cameron
Trad climber
Park City, UT
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Nov 16, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
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adam d
climber
CA
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Nov 16, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
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I spent a few winter seasons climbing ice in the Adirondacks mainly and a few other spots in the northeast. Miss it, but thinking more about winter swell than drips freezing up in my coastal setting these days.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 16, 2012 - 07:37pm PT
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Cripes! haven't seen Ragnarock that fat in years.......
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 16, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
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Headless Don on FA of the rarely formed Suncatcher
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Nov 16, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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where is Suncatcher? Looks very good
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 16, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
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25 years worth of my tools evolution
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slobmonster
Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
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Nov 16, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
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All old, but what the hell
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 16, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
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AP - Suncatcher is towards Lillooet a ways from Jade Falls.
Speaking of which the big hanging icicle right of Jade Falls is still unclimbed...
On the right.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Nov 17, 2012 - 12:46am PT
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i mean, youre first shot has to be the best ice climbing ass ever!
thank you so much slobmonster.
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Nov 18, 2012 - 03:29am PT
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le pissour last time it was formed
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Conrad
climber
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Nov 18, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Nov 18, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Nov 18, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
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This climb is in shape now...
but not the landing
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Nov 18, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
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Bruce:
The whipper Traverse was pretty sketch- manky pins right off the belay. My partner was solid though. It was the first ascent of the season so the ice was bulletproof and not hooked so quite devine.
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Nov 18, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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climblight
Mountain climber
Northern NV
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Nov 18, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
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What's this line on the watchtower? Right of Moonage
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Conrad
climber
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Nov 18, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
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Timmc -- SOV pictures from this season?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 18, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
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Digging deep here...
Ice climbing photos from the 1970s
Lee Vining
70 cm ice axe in one hand
Alpine hammer in the other
Mugs Stump told me that I had to get a Curver, so I did (it was really short, 54 cm)
Cooking up pancakes on a Svea 123 stove at Lee Vining. The pancakes are New Orleans style (blackened).
My ice climbing tools of yester-year
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 19, 2012 - 07:47am PT
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sweet!
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Nov 19, 2012 - 10:20am PT
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Conrad:
Sure looks like the same season but that time I was there was 2009.
What a venue!
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Nov 19, 2012 - 11:10am PT
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 19, 2012 - 11:38am PT
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wow, I could get out some of that pre-gortex stuff, including a "60/40" parka that my wife made for me back in the day... probably from a pattern out of an old book on making your own camping stuff...
wool socks, wool knickers, wool balaclava, wool mittens, leather boots, nylon shell... got wet and stayed "warm" (the mantra, repeated over and over: "wool is warm, even when wet" was more a prayer)
wood handles, no leashes,
impossible technique
climbing ice in January 2012 was very different from the last time I climbed ice in 1995
the clothing technology made climbing movement possible and kept the body warm and dry
the ice "tool" technology transformed ascents from something akin to framing a house to actual recognizable climbing
and the popularity of the sport has turned it into a search for holes to hook (this is not such a great development IMHO)
no use dwelling on the past except to, once again, give kudos to those climbers who put up the hardest routes (many still hard) with the gear of that day
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astrange
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Nov 19, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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Winter is coming soon! A shot from last year in Val di Cogne
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Conrad
climber
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Nov 20, 2012 - 04:47am PT
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Tim -
Kris E and I drove up after the 2004 election, totally bummed, ready to become Canadians. The Terminator headwall was super deluxe, nice and plastic before deep winter sublimates it into a brittle nightmare.
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perswig
climber
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Nov 20, 2012 - 08:26am PT
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^^
Incoming!
Bitchin' pics, all.
You guys are badass.
Dale
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Nov 20, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Conrad:
Sick photo-I cringed.
Ha ha, I was just working with a fellow American in Alberta during the last election- he said we wouln't go home if Romney won.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Nov 20, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
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+ 1 on the shot of Jimmy and Seton Lk.!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 20, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
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FA of Medusa, near Hope.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 21, 2012 - 01:33am PT
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Wow Medusa looks great!
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Anywhere I like
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Nov 21, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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as always with ice, never say when or where
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 24, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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This thing forms very rarely due to flow volume, but when it does, it's quite the climb.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 24, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
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Bruce, there's this nice unclimbed line for you on the other side of the Crucible amphitheatre. Looks like it could take a whole rack of Big Bros...
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Nov 26, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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CODY !!!!
Cody Why go anywhere else.....
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Nov 26, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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might take a road trip out West this winter to get some climbing in either at Cody or Hyalite (the drive is about the same) -- which is better in terms of approach/accessibility, reliability of ice, aesthetics and so on?
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Nov 27, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
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Outside Bozeman 1971 or 1972...
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Nov 28, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 28, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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Cool shots E, keep em coming!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 28, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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Conrad
climber
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Nov 28, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Nov 29, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
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Here's one from Maple cyn.
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
oakland, california
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Nov 29, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
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endless AI2 at 6000m
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Nov 29, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
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final pitch of High on Boulder-Cody
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fosburg
climber
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Nov 29, 2012 - 09:47pm PT
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Never seen Get Whacked that thick Erik, nice!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Nov 29, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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Now we're talking!! Love it. Sharpening my picks and drinking Two-Hearted Ale right now. Just need some ice!!
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Experts Choice center in waterton alberta.
Billy Pierson on first pitch
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Great photos upthread!
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Brainstem- GNP
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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unclimbed
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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somewhere in the deep woods?
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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We have one of those too, but ours has been climbed. The Missing Tooth Grade IV WI5 5.9 A2 FA: Kirby Spangler and Lane Johnson 1997.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Bruce I figure you could either go hard left out to the corner, up the corner then back right on ledge past the three trees to the upper ice, or just lug a drill up there and make a modern route with some bolts... if there are any holds on that rotten granite.
it sure is a long way up there though. I took that photo with 10x zoom.
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Hey Bruce:
Thanks and no haven't climbed UQ, though it looks amazing. I have heard that crack pitch is inreal.
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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leaving the big ledge on Nemesis-Stanley Headwall
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Billy Pierson on last pitch of Polar Circus
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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McC sans corde at Ouray
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Bruce, it's pretty darn dry here right now, and the ice like that up high on Alex's between 12K and 13K is most likely sublimating. That picture was taken last April.
Edit: Those thin runnels in your pix. look pretty sweet as well.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
u.s. 395
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stringband
Mountain climber
Marquette, Michigan
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Here is a older photo of the ice along Sand Point Road, Munising, Michigan.
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Awesome thread!!! Jonesing for some ice here in the NE! Things have definitely been getting climbed, but still pretty thin in most places.
Here's a shot from a multi-sport day in Mt. Washington's Huntington Ravine this past spring (ice climbed Pinnacle Gully, rock climbed Pinnacle Butress, then snowboarded Central Gully):
My friend Scott on P2 of the Black Dike (photo by Scott Sampietro):
Pretty full-on conditions in Pinnacle Gully this past January:
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Old Man
Ice climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Grammy
Trad climber
North Conway, New Hampshire
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[photoid=277233]
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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here's a good one of Carlsberg
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Grammy. Dracula Looks Fat! had no idea that you guys have winter over there... dry as a bone here in VT... :(
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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unconsolidated crud at 6400 meters-summit cone of Cholatse
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Grammy
Trad climber
North Conway, New Hampshire
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Tradman! These pictures were taken a few years back. We have nothing going on right now. Standard can be climbed. I soloed Monkey Wrench to the Cleft last weekend and that was wonderful...but you have to go high to get the ice right now. Hopefully things will change here in the next week or two!
~grammy
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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Just finished watching Ice Revolution from last years Reel Rock film tour, Will Gadd and Tim Emmet on their Helmcken Falls project. If you haven't seen it yet (I hadn't) check it out! Crazy futuristic ice climbing for sure, weird to see ice and bolts together...
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Grammy
Trad climber
North Conway, New Hampshire
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Oh...lol. Sorry Tradman! Actually, Janet Wilkinson and Majka Burhardt climbed Standard route today...that must have been one scratchy and dicey ascent! Pretty cool
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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^^^ That looks like some weird skiing. Or a hot new dance.
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Dec 14, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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very soon now....
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 15, 2012 - 03:20am PT
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Dec 15, 2012 - 09:10am PT
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secret spot
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Dec 15, 2012 - 09:18am PT
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My first lead back after spinal fusion.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 15, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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Slow start here in the North East. only climbing to be had is up high...
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Dec 15, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
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this one has not been in for awhile
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 18, 2012 - 02:50am PT
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 18, 2012 - 03:20am PT
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Conrad
climber
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Dec 30, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Dec 30, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
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pitch 2 Hermods ride
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Dec 30, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
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last pitch....avenger
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Bruce Kay - right, there is some really tall and impressive ice in Norway. In Feb 2005, Scott Johnston, Erik Sandelin, Björn Kihlstrom, and I climbed the 1st 4 pitches of a waterfall near what was later named Fossilmonster. There was much more above us. We went back in 2006, but the lower pitches were missing. In 2009, Robert Jasper and partners finished it, naming it Into the Wild and also did the FA of the Fossilmonster (link below).
Fossilmonster is to the right and out of the above pictures.
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=36635
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Bruce Kay - For some perspective on the length of Fossilmonster, Robert Jasper puts it at about 100m less than that of Into the Wild. The 1st 4 pitches of Into the Wild is the bit of ice in this picture rising above the end of the safety guardrail along the right side of the road:
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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{Don't ice climb with a GriGri}
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Isn't it Fosslimonster?
I don't speak Norske but I think Fossli means something totally different that Fossil.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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