California Crags That Need A Litter


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eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 13, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
What crags need one? I am looking to purchase one or more for crags that are in the most need. Preferably in the Bay Area/Tahoe/Western Sierra areas. Also looking at crags with rugged tough approaches where litters would be desired. What are your thoughts?

Trad climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
tioga cliff in lee vining canyon could benefit by having one. its a sport crag thats getting more popular, just east of the boarder of yosemite. i was trying to figure out a way to get one, every time i went down there this year. it could make the difference

Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Nov 13, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
Just don't leave 'em in the mountains all winter long, or this might happen to 'em:

Credit: apogee
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
Thanks Dan, that's a good suggestion that I had forgotton about.

Looks like those litters need to be trashed altogether and upgraded. Where were those?

Edit: I see now. I was going to guess either Tahquitz or Suicide.

Trad climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
eliot, if you need any help at all let me know, i have been doing anchor repair down there the last few years and would be way into it. there is a good protected overhang just before you get to the bolted routes

Trad climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
I donated a stokes basket to Williamson Rock back in the late 1980's I am sure it's still there behind the pillar next to the Waterfall Wall. It does not look like Williamson will be opening anytime soon so if you can think of a crag that needs it you are more than welcome to get it, just be careful not to step on any frogs.

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Nov 13, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
Depending on the area, they will get used a lot. I was surprised to see that the local SAR at Smith uses the chicken wire litters all the time. WHat is really helpful is also having a backboard with the litter. You can improvise c-collars pretty easily, but a backboard is much tougher. That would also help enormously. I have seen long delays in packaging patients as we were awiting the arrival of a backboard while the litter was on site.

Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Nov 13, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
I have a Talon II collapsable litter. PM me

Nov 13, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
A GERMA is a hundred times better than any backboard for litter carry outs.

We use the GERMA's all the time and never use a backboard.

Social climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
Trash Can Rock. It's winter mountaineering season and I know some Euros are putting up a route by B1 and Cranny, capsule style. Gonna be a hectic winter with the government lowering the Permit to 10K...
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 12:43am PT
Awesome link Werner. Thanks for that. Which litter specifically is YOSAR using on that site? Would one of those litters be of more use and benefit than say a standard one with a backboard? Cost may also be an issue with one of those if, say, for the price of one Germa, we could provide ten crags with litters.

And as to my question, so far, we have one vote for Tioga Cliff.

Thanks Dan. Also, more suggestions would be much appreciated. I'll get in touch when we move forward, so far I'm just compiling a list of crags that would need litters.


Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:49am PT
Lovers Leap if there isn't a cache there already.

I'm also interested to know which of those vaccum splints Yosar is using instead of a backboard.
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 12:55am PT
I was also wondering about Lover's Leap. Good suggestion. Anyone know if there is already one there?

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:57am PT
High Peaks at Pinnacles?
Nate D

San Francisco
Nov 14, 2012 - 01:17am PT
Shuteye? Really? Who even goes there.

Would be good to compile and make public a list of areas where current litters already exist. Or is this to be found somewhere already, but only for SAR folks to know? Surely guides must know. Please excuse my ignorance on the matter.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:22am PT
Sierra Buttes lookout.
Trinity Arettes

Out of state, but by the base of the Durrance, Devils Tower, if there isn't one already

lawrence kansas
Nov 14, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
There used to be one at the Leap leaning against the boulder on the Pony Express Trail. Not there anymore. Maybe some meth head took it to the recycler. If any place in Tahoe needs one it's the Leap.

Maybe one at Sugarloaf would be good too.

Big Wall climber
San Diego
Nov 14, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
+1 for the leap. Maybe sugarloaf too

Sport climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
+1 for Sugarloaf.

Leave one up the south face. If it's an eye sore, you can put it in that 25 foot tall bolted chimney.

Or below Farley.
ana dablam

mother earth
Nov 14, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
Is the one in lee vining canyon good to go for this ice season?

It gets some use.
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