Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 13, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
This issue contained an important article on Lakeland climbing by a local activist, Rob Matheson, extensive, authoritive and informative, it was this sort of material that made Mountain stand above it's peers in the climbing media.
Rob continues to climb hard and can be found on Youtube demonstrating a hard lakes route - E7, I think. Way to Go!
Usual disclaimers; any objections and I'll pull the piece.
Bill March on the first ascent of Cascade on Stag Rock Cairngorm. Dave Alcock photo
Ed Cleasby on Footless Crow, Goat Crag, Borrowdale.On of Livesey's masterpieces of the 70s
In Landscape - you'll just have to twist your heads!
I remember that article well, blakey. Read and re-read it over and over, at the time.
it was a great day when I got to do Bitter Oasis. Wild route. Even better was my day of being the belayer for my friend's lead (name? Craig McAdam? or something like that, from Dumfries) of Dry Grasp. He tried and tried, kept falling/failing. I was watching carefully, so I offered to try the sharp end. Led it first go, kept going. Thirty feet up, no gear (I had not bothered to rack up) I had to stop at a good hold and, one handed, pull up yards of slack and haul a rack up for the rest of the pitch.
Kind of a high point of my free climbing, broke, on the dole, climbing every day. Later I saw pics in the magazines of Ed Cleasby falling off. Gave me pause. Maybe these guys in the mags aren't so superhuman?
Couple years later I went back to Dry Grasp and could not touch it.... been downhill but less broke, more fun ever since....
I also remember the article....really cool. Question....just had a copy of the really well done book "Peak Rock" sent to me and a number of climbs in the book as in the article are referred to as such and such's "masterpiece." Do brits use that term more loosely....I've never heard it used to describe a climb in the US.
I only skimmed this very quickly but the thought that jumped out at me was that the standard of relying on skill and boldness set by those guys is so absent in most climbers, particularly newer climbers, today. Modern climbing (i.e., sport), in many ways has sucked the adventure out of the sport.