PO Wall


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Messages 21 - 25 of total 25 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Captain...or Skully

Nov 13, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
I've been hoping that someone would retro those last anchors. Those things sucked!

Trad climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
good route, that island in the sky is one great bivy

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
Looking forward to it. If I can find my old--gasp!--hand drill, we'll try and replace the anchors on the last pitch. Or at least remove them, if there's good natural gear.


Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:18am PT
I think the natural pro there was 'ok' but maybe not great, can't recall; I remember the rock was a bit broken there.. Don't recall what type of bolts they were but the hangers were fixed with some kind of rings and the hanger holes were too small to also accommodate a carabiner, so you had to clip the rings- which were elongated and deformed from people hauling bags on them, it would be a nice community service to replace 'em.

The only bad anchor on the route otherwise was between 7 and 8 on Supertopo topo; but its best to combine these two pitches into one long pitch of scary mankfest. By the way on p7 there is a crazy hole that you need either a bong, a large tricam, or you can stack a couple of 1 1/2" angles (what we did). Not to spoil the adventure but w/o one of those special tools you will be baffled and maybe rapping off to go shopping.

Good luck and have fun!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:28am PT
The anchor Mark is talking about is actually about 15 feet left of where you will logically set up your fully and safely climber built anchor, all cams, BTW. Having said that, you should go over there and chop that whole mess. There are three "plant hangers" and one 3/8" bolt.

There are a few plant hanger on a couple of the anchors lower down on the PO that should be pulled and replaced also.

Max and I belayed on the cams (take one real big cam for the anchor) but these were the ones lower down.

Credit: Mark Hudon

You won't be able to use "tuning forks" to remove those bolts, you might need a small crow bar. You'll also need some putty to finish the job and fill the holes. PM Greg Barnes at the ASCA for bolts and putty.

Credit: Mark Hudon

Tuning forks
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