Bald Eagle Peakl - S. Sierras - Beta wanted

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Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 9, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
Has anybody here ever climbed at Bald Eagle Peak, near Lake Isabella? There is scarce info available on MP.com & RC.com. I know Herb Laeger has done some 75 routes at this overlooked granite monolith but does anybody here have any additional info?

With the cold snap we are having now, it seems like a good place to visit as it is at only 6,000' elevation & it's south facing.

Bueler, Bueler, anyone???
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 9, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
South facing or not.....

it will be cold, this weekend.

Go to Rincon.....

the trail got worked on some, last winter

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 9, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
The road up there is cut into a huge steep hillside and is very exposed in places. If there is any snow, or even if the slippery clay sections are wet it will be a very dicey drive with unthinkable consequences if you slip off the edge.

You can always call Herb, I'm sure he'd love to give you the tour. And in any case he'll know if the gate is open and what the road conditions are. Call me if you want his #...

I was thinking of a day trip to cpr Sunday myself.

ec

climber
ca
Nov 12, 2012 - 09:33am PT
'Did a few things there & didn't require BETA...

 ec
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 07:58am PT
I went up there this last Sunday & Monday. As Kris mentioned, the road leading up out of Bodfish had snow & could be dangerous but we drove my Subaru so we were fine. The weather was cold but it was perfect at the rocks. Here's an overview of Bald Eagle Peak.









Amazing featured stone up here! The rock has all kinds of jugs, rails & cool features. It gets lots of sun & even though the overnight lows were in the 20's, it was warm at the rock. In fact, I'll never go back without shorts & a white shirt to keep the heat at bay.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 13, 2012 - 08:28am PT
Bill.... cool deal.

It is a nice place, you know Herb has a printed GB for the place.

Did you camp out at the road top?

ec

climber
ca
Nov 13, 2012 - 08:32am PT
I remember having tons of ticks get on us during the approach, but not at the cliff. Not surprising to see the place with so many routes now. I could only get a few people to go out there BITD.
 ec
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 13, 2012 - 08:44am PT
That's a cool looking crag - reminds me of our scruffy stuff in San Diego County. Looks like great rock!

How's that approach?
ec

climber
ca
Nov 13, 2012 - 09:27am PT
Contour over from the road, maybe 20 minutes max. Piece of cake.
 ec
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 10:23am PT
Guy, We did not camp out at the trailhead. It was way too cold. We camped at the Rincon place & commuted to Bald Eagle Peak.

Kevin, It is very similar to Eagle Peak or El Cajon Mtn but the rock is even better & has fewer blocky fractures. Like both of the above mentioned places, it has a short window of opportunity weather wise. Summers are obviously too hot & mid winter, it may be a chore to get up ther if the road is gated. Currently you can drive up to the trailhead but if much more snow accumulates, it will be closed & then you will have a difficult approach to deal with. It was perfect on Sunday & almost too hot on Monday.

I have to disagree with EC, the approach takes 30 to 35 minutes but it is on a nice trail for the most part. The last 5 to 10 minutes, is on a scrambling path that is currently kind of hard to follow & a bit brushy. I look forward to getting back there soon! There is a lot of recent acivity. Lots of lines of bolts & many sets of anchors on the wall but it was tough to match up the scarce info I had with what we saw.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Nov 13, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
pictures?

edit: Levy's pictures don't show up for me...lame browser or the fact that I'm at work and work blocks that kind of fun.

Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 13, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
Nice Levy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the pics!

Jeremy
ec

climber
ca
Nov 13, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
My bad...
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Nov 13, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
Looks like a fun spot, thanks for posting pictures.

Subaruuuuu!!!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 13, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
Regarding the approach, Herb Laeger did a lot of work on that trail, so if EC went in before that it would have been pretty rough I suspect...

How about hiking up from the lower road when the dirt road is closed? That would be a real deal!
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
The scale of the main cliff is huge! It's over 500' tall and much wider than the photos might suggest. The 2nd photo is the far left side of the wall, to the left of the cyclops eye, the dark intrusion of diorite you can see in the 1st photo. From the angle the photo was taken you cannot see just how much rock is up there. I'll post up some more photos when I have some free time this evening.

Hiking from below would be reminiscent of the Scodie approach. Ugghh. :(
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 13, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
So Bill, is the road gated down below, right at the start like before?

It is a nice place to climb and like you pointed out, it has a short season.

And are you the one who has been moving the fire ring at Rincon camping around??

Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
Guyzo, The dirt road is gated just 150 yards past where it leaves the paved Bodfish / Calliente road. From the looks of it, it is seldom closed, but I can see how the USFS might want to have it locked when the snow is heavy. It would really suck for them to have to patrol the entire area over to Kelso Valley to check if anybody got snowed in.

As far as Rincon goes, we used the fire ring but didn't move it. We did however roll the rocks onto the center of the ring, to keep any embers we might have missed from getting any dry leaves that might blow into it. Lots of fire wood to be had this year! Lots of downed trees from a wind & thunder storm earlier this year.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 13, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
You know sometimes the gate is gone!!!!!!!

A few years ago some local Hooligans, using heavy equipment, removed the gate and the posts..... gone, just gone one nite!

It took about 4 -5 years to get it replaced.

Cool about the firepit, no worries with the stones in the center. Its when the whole thing gets moved to where I like to bed down, right under the trees, that gets my panties in a wad.

Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Nov 13, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
epic shots Levy! Looks worth the hike.

(...damn work blocked it this morning.)


edit:
....removed the gate and the posts..... gone, just gone one nite!

those gates are buff. That's efficient monkey wrenching.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 08:06am PT
Some more photos from Bald Eagle Peak for your viewing pleasure.

rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Mar 19, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
Bald Eagle Peak
Bald Eagle Peak
Credit: rincon
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2014 - 09:06am PT
I went back to this overlooked gem last Sunday with Matty and it was just amazing! The rock quality is sooo damn good. Despite the lack of a published guidebook, there is some amazing featured rock up on that there cliff that provides some of the best face climbing I've ever done on granite.

We were so busy climbing that I didn't take any photos, but Matty did so maybe he'll post up some pics.

For those looking for a winter crag in California, don't miss this one.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 22, 2014 - 10:16am PT
Bill... nice winter climbing spot.

Go bang on HL's door... he has GB's printed.



Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jan 22, 2014 - 10:35am PT
thx Levy. Looks cool. Is this the one visible from the hwy that runs by Lake Isabella? 178, I think.

Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2014 - 11:18am PT
Guy - Herb let me copy his guide so I have the info for many of the routes. Some routes, it seems, are not in the book unfortunately. :(

Munge - I think you only can see it from the Calliente/Bodfish road. Most of the cliff is on the opposite side of the ridge from where you can see Lake Isabella. It's the kind of place where if it was visible from most vantage points, it would have been developed long ago.

I'm thinking of going back there next weekend if there are any takers.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 22, 2014 - 11:26am PT
I went back to this overlooked gem last Sunday with Matty and it was just amazing! The rock quality is sooo damn good. Despite the lack of a published guidebook, there is some amazing featured rock up on that there cliff that provides some of the best face climbing I've ever done on granite.

Thanks for the info. Looks really good!! Any particular routes that you guys think are a must do for someone who will visit for the first time?


Sorry to change the topic, but you guys that climb in SoCal might know..when you hike up towards the Needles there are a few really cool domes a ways to your left. Does anyone know their names and what lines are on them? They look quite nice. No photos at the moment, I am at work.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2014 - 11:57am PT
Vitialy - Those formations off to the left are Hermit spire & it's satellite formations. They have some great routes up to 8 pitches I think. FWIW - the Needles are better but if you have a spare day in the area, it's worth checking out. Standout routes at Bald Eagle would be Electric Puppy Machine 5.10d, Welcome To Bald Eagle Peak 5.11a/b, Russell In The Wind 5.10a.

There are a bunch of routes that I have not yet been on but look wonderful. Armed & Dangerous 5.11d looks really good & so do several others whose names I forget. There is a 5.12+ route called Brother Can You Spare A Dime that looks real good & goes up a blunt arÍte with lots of exposure. There is also an unfinished route with an waiting to be free climbed thin crack off to the left of the main face. It needs some strong climbing team to finish it.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Feb 10, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
Going around East of here, but will be terribly interested in seeing where the snow line is in general.

Anyone going up, or should I take Isabella way back and snap pics on my way back?
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
Mungeclimber - Sent you a PM.
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