Climber Built Anchors on a Wall


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Social climber
An Oil Field
Nov 7, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
I've had a single 1/4 inch bolt backed up with a few heads. It was kind of spooky.

This whole convenience anchor mindset that throws three fatties at every belay is kind of dumb, IMO. It changes the route big time.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
Yes, flaunting to get a discussion going!

At least it's climbing, eh?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
My first hanging bivy ever was completely from pitons we had placed.

Nov 7, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
Climber built anchors on a wall is a sub world like talking about hysteresis in analog comparators years ago.

I built one once with 11 pins equalized around an expanding flake and hauled off of it.

The second ascent got there and went into a WTF happened here.

They blasted in 2 bolts immediately, LOL ..... I don't blame em .....

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Nov 7, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
To flaunt is human it has been said . . . nobody said this was a negative quality.

Thank you for all of your contributions to climbing and the sharing of your experiences.

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 7, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
You ARE most Definitely going to die..... eventually.

But dont let that slow you down, you;re on an old man roll!

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
Kalimon, I was taking it lightly! I understood what you were saying.

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Nov 7, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
Hud Peace Now!

Social climber
Nov 7, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
I'm sorry too.

Just pointing out that this isn't - my bad...

Sport climber
Port Townsend WA
Nov 7, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
Bomber pro, hope you had fun hauling

Social climber
Nov 7, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
Jeez, climbers these days. Wusses.

South Face of Watkins, Sheraton ledge, after sunset, circa 1983. Led last pitch to the big ledge. A big party of sleepy japs were draped all over the ledge like seals flopped on a beach. Could find no worthy cracks. I placed a slider nut in a parallel, expanding crack for hauling (yes it opened a bit when the crack widened a tad as I began pulling) while my partner jumared on a Chouinard skyhook. Nothing else. To be fair, the edge the hook was was so perfectly formed that it could have been the model for Yvon's design.

Funny, that might have been the last route we did together.....

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Nov 7, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
hey Mark I quickly went through one of your vids lately and you said something about the DMM Revolver... can you remind me quickly where you find that piece useful? it seems awfully niche

and yeah, yer gonna die for sure with biner-on-biner action
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
Anywhere you want to reduce the drag. I use it when I'm feeding my ropes into my rope bags and when I need a redirect for lifting the bags or anything else heavy.

On Iron Hawk, I needed to move my fully set up ledge, I think I wanted to move it to a higher bolt. I created a quick 2:1 with some cord, redirected the cord down through the Revolver to a sling I could stand in, applied some weight and lifted the ledge up to it's new position effortlessly.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 7, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
I generally use a #3 camalot and call it good.


Big Wall climber
Corona CA.
Nov 7, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
I'd sleep very comfortably on any anchor Mark built

Trad climber
Nov 8, 2012 - 12:16am PT
TFPU Mark!! Really cool seeing it done especially on such a nice looking line! I'm actually able to learn from stuff like this and improve. Keep it coming please.

Social climber
Durango CO
Nov 8, 2012 - 12:18am PT
I just said I was not fond of it.

His anchor is bomber. But if you post it, you are asking for comments.

I was taught 20 years ago buy a long time hardman that it was not good to link biner to biner. I guess it is something that has stuck with me.

I think his reasoning it that if the biners somehow twisted against each other there could be an issue. Plus it takes another link out of the system.


Trad climber
Nov 8, 2012 - 01:26am PT
Sexy set-up Mark. Very clean. Did you end up placing anything for an upward pull when the leader took off? What's your thought on that? Do you always try to rig an upward piece. Sometimes on long trad routes I get lazy and dont, especially if I'm standing kinda flat footed on a little ledge or something. Bad form probably. Whats your protocol on walls?
nick d

Trad climber
Nov 8, 2012 - 01:43am PT
So Bowser, if I understand you correctly; the system is better with MORE links?

Not sure I can buy that, good buddy. The fewer the better in my book.
Fewer links, fewer to fail.
bigwall shitter

Social climber
the wild west
Nov 8, 2012 - 02:21am PT
Credit: bigwall shitter

I wonder if this one was good for a upward pull?
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