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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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I've had a single 1/4 inch bolt backed up with a few heads. It was kind of spooky.
This whole convenience anchor mindset that throws three fatties at every belay is kind of dumb, IMO. It changes the route big time.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
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Yes, flaunting to get a discussion going!
At least it's climbing, eh?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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My first hanging bivy ever was completely from pitons we had placed.
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WBraun
climber
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Climber built anchors on a wall is a sub world like talking about hysteresis in analog comparators years ago.
I built one once with 11 pins equalized around an expanding flake and hauled off of it.
The second ascent got there and went into a WTF happened here.
They blasted in 2 bolts immediately, LOL ..... I don't blame em .....
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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To flaunt is human it has been said . . . nobody said this was a negative quality.
Thank you for all of your contributions to climbing and the sharing of your experiences.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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You ARE most Definitely going to die..... eventually.
But dont let that slow you down, you;re on an old man roll!
KEEP IT UP!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
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Kalimon, I was taking it lightly! I understood what you were saying.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Hud Peace Now!
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MisterE
Social climber
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I'm sorry too.
Just pointing out that this isn't RC.com - my bad...
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Enthusiast
Sport climber
Port Townsend WA
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Bomber pro, hope you had fun hauling
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jeez, climbers these days. Wusses.
South Face of Watkins, Sheraton ledge, after sunset, circa 1983. Led last pitch to the big ledge. A big party of sleepy japs were draped all over the ledge like seals flopped on a beach. Could find no worthy cracks. I placed a slider nut in a parallel, expanding crack for hauling (yes it opened a bit when the crack widened a tad as I began pulling) while my partner jumared on a Chouinard skyhook. Nothing else. To be fair, the edge the hook was was so perfectly formed that it could have been the model for Yvon's design.
Funny, that might have been the last route we did together.....
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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hey Mark I quickly went through one of your vids lately and you said something about the DMM Revolver... can you remind me quickly where you find that piece useful? it seems awfully niche
and yeah, yer gonna die for sure with biner-on-biner action
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
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Anywhere you want to reduce the drag. I use it when I'm feeding my ropes into my rope bags and when I need a redirect for lifting the bags or anything else heavy.
On Iron Hawk, I needed to move my fully set up ledge, I think I wanted to move it to a higher bolt. I created a quick 2:1 with some cord, redirected the cord down through the Revolver to a sling I could stand in, applied some weight and lifted the ledge up to it's new position effortlessly.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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I generally use a #3 camalot and call it good.
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Skot433
Big Wall climber
Corona CA.
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I'd sleep very comfortably on any anchor Mark built
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mountainlion
Trad climber
California
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TFPU Mark!! Really cool seeing it done especially on such a nice looking line! I'm actually able to learn from stuff like this and improve. Keep it coming please.
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Bowser
Social climber
Durango CO
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I just said I was not fond of it.
His anchor is bomber. But if you post it, you are asking for comments.
I was taught 20 years ago buy a long time hardman that it was not good to link biner to biner. I guess it is something that has stuck with me.
I think his reasoning it that if the biners somehow twisted against each other there could be an issue. Plus it takes another link out of the system.
TB
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micronut
Trad climber
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Sexy set-up Mark. Very clean. Did you end up placing anything for an upward pull when the leader took off? What's your thought on that? Do you always try to rig an upward piece. Sometimes on long trad routes I get lazy and dont, especially if I'm standing kinda flat footed on a little ledge or something. Bad form probably. Whats your protocol on walls?
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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So Bowser, if I understand you correctly; the system is better with MORE links?
Not sure I can buy that, good buddy. The fewer the better in my book.
Fewer links, fewer to fail.
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bigwall shitter
Social climber
the wild west
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I wonder if this one was good for a upward pull?
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