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Messages 21 - 24 of total 24 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Nov 20, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
Good point about flares. Although the super tight spiral also decreases the useful range, so reprofiling would improve this thing a couple ways. Come to thing of it, specialty cams could in theory be constructed with a greater cam angle specifically for flaring placements, though no doubt theres an outside limit to that.
Someone should build a dual load cell test jig with a crack that has an adjustable taper to compare pull out force vs cam expansion force, like this:
photo not found
Missing photo ID#274708
Sure wish i had the money to build it.
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Nov 20, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
An excellent treatment of cam design, by an old climbing buddy of mine:

http://vainokodas.com/climbing/cams.html

Curt
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Nov 20, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
Thanks for that link.
adatesman

climber
philadelphia, pa
Nov 20, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
Bunch more links here: http://theclimbinglab.com/tiki-index.php?page=Camming+Device+Theory+and+Design
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