Homage to Roof Climbing (photo's)

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Bovine

Social climber
flatlands
Topic Author's Original Post - May 23, 2006 - 01:48pm PT
I figured at least a few of you out there are facinated by those few and far between roof climbs. If you have any pics, please post up!

Owl Roof A3, 165' totally Horizontal!

And a view looking straight up at owl roof from below (the red rope is the tag line)
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
May 23, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
COOL!

MORE!
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
May 23, 2006 - 03:23pm PT
bovine? Is that thar one of dem Missouri roofs? I dun hurd tell of dat...
wyJames

Mountain climber
Dripping Spring, Tx
May 23, 2006 - 06:09pm PT
D-n-I

Do you happen to have a picture of Champagne Jam? I learned to climb at Sandrock when I was young and that route was like an inspiration to us.

Cheers, James
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 23, 2006 - 08:54pm PT

dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
May 23, 2006 - 09:19pm PT
I do not have a pic of CJ, but I have a friend who did try very hard to climb it, LOL. I think they finally got it, but that sandrock shyte is rough stuff on the hands. Last time I was there there was a fixed something or other in the crack, further out than I will ever get, haha.

There is also a 12 hand crack roof, VERY high up, Suicide Direct I believe the name is, in the BSF that some guys in NC freed recently, it is brutal looking, like Arno's Don Juan only much longer.

I might be able to snag a pic of a short but wide roof crack in a hidden secret place in NC called CHossy MOuntain, that I took a fall on before figuring out, but it is only a ten or so, and goes free very well.

Wish I had a pic of the short roof on Supergumbiewannabe, no crack, short roof (full horizontal extension will get you from wall to edge) it is also a cool move to make, with such a nice finger lock crossing over at your waist as you lock your foot in a hole at the back wall, and reach out around the lip.


Damn I need pics of these.
Loomis

climber
Praha, Ceska Republika
May 23, 2006 - 09:25pm PT
This roof is 3 pitches long!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 23, 2006 - 09:48pm PT
I liked that one when you (or somone) posted it before. What (and where) is the story?


Dirt- sounds cool, waiting for photos. .12 handcrack roofs are about as cool as it gets.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
May 23, 2006 - 09:59pm PT
Jaybro, turning that rounded lip looks like it might be really hard and insecure, is it?
JP

Trad climber
Quebec
May 23, 2006 - 10:17pm PT
Wow!!! where is that Owl Roof???
Elcapinyoazz

Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
May 23, 2006 - 10:21pm PT
Champagne Jam is a bizzatch. Tape or die. That bitch be pull of pebbles. Like boxing a bag of broken glass. Tried it one day, got about to the lip on the first go and said "screw this POS". Never went back.

I got some pics from back in the day on a Rob-Rob route called Raiders of the Lost Arch at Sunset. Spectacular feature. Climb up a short approach pitch to the money...about 18' of horizontal roof splitting this wacky arch. You can barely see it from the trail when the leaves are out. Kind of a weird arch, hard to explain but it barely has clearance in the back to make it a true arch.

Lots of killer roofage in the deep south. Only got to taste a samplin in the mid 90s. Crazy hot in that part of the country though.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 23, 2006 - 10:32pm PT
Yup, Dirt, seems like the lip is always the crux. except on the monkey roof, that one saves the fun for later.

The second photo, is of a route called Squat 11d/12a, in an area near vedauwoo known as the roof Ranch. There's another climb there that's about the same size roof, though thinner and harder but rated easier. I wish I had a photo of that one.
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
May 23, 2006 - 11:47pm PT
Roofs were never my thing, or cracks or face or slab or aid! But I have been caught on a couple. Arkansas Reality
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
May 23, 2006 - 11:50pm PT
This aint much of a roof but here is bovine himself I think on the second ascent of the Beast.(I think thats the Beast, bovine? First its your memory then what?)

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
May 24, 2006 - 01:25am PT
Feast of Fools, Gunks.


Beatle Brow Bulge, Gunks.

dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
May 24, 2006 - 01:31am PT
HEy Rgold, how is that arrete to the right of the big roof?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
May 24, 2006 - 01:52am PT
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/pin/del13.jpg

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/pin/del45.jpg


Feral Rat leading the "Grand Delusion"

fka- Delusion Overhang on Ignorable Cliffs
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
May 24, 2006 - 01:53am PT
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/pin/del13.jpg

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/pin/del45.jpg

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/pin/del68.jpg

Feral Rat leading the "Grand Delusion"

fka- Delusion Overhang on Ignorable Cliffs
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 24, 2006 - 08:51am PT
Nice sequence, where are the ignorable cliffs?
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
May 24, 2006 - 09:09am PT
Anyone ever "study up" in the Stephen King Library?

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