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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Well my experience with the Barstow BLM is limited but I have some communication with them in the past. Not regarding NJC but other semi-unmonitored land use (Drylake bed in Joshua Tree). I found the BLM office to be extremely thoughtful, helpful and pleasant to deal with. They provided "off the record" insight and was happy to communicate.
Not sure what all that means regarding NJC but I'm hopeful any problems are limited to the current camp host who may/may not be new to the "position". I'm not fearful of standing my ground, but in this case I'm hoping that cool heads and compliance prevail. I for one am not going in looking for a fight and hopefully the same if for others. Once the host realizes that climbers are of no consequence he'll go back to his scrabble game and leave us alone. Right?
I'm glad this post came up; it arms people with potential problems and lets them think about it before anything actually happens. Remember, you can't control other people only your reaction.
edit: Riley, your experience is the general feeling I received from the BLM. Any issues I suspect are those from the host, not the local office.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Can we expect another free TR then? I am so tired of paying for the good stuff...
Another way of saying that current updates on this are appreciated...
Erik
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Not much of a trip report other than no 5.7 is safe from Blitzo! The man is on fire!! Basically had the place to our little group with only one other couple climbing across the way. Peace, quiet and nice temps were found just as we like it.
Regarding the host..........
(snip)
We arrived without so much as even a wave of hello. No heads poking out, loop driving, waiving us down or any questions asked. For all we know they're passed out in their RV. It appears to be the same set up as last year, nice and tidy area for their residence and reports of maintaining the cleanest bathrooms in the BLM.
Best I can tell, it's hit or miss as to whether you get accosted from the guy. I'm still sticking with being respectful and I'm sure he'll reciprocate.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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no shooting
F**K THAT!!!
I'm gonna get me some property near Mariposa!
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Couldn't help but notice in the picture of the rules that "someone" changed the actual speed limit from 15 mph to 5 mph by painting over (and badly, I might add) the numeral 1. Check any BLM campground in the state... they're all 15 mph near camps, people and animals. Me thinks someone is making up their own rules.
But screw it... I'm not going anymore since I can't belay off the bumper of my buggy whilst I plink a few beer bottles with the rifle. Where's the joy in that?
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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While "the locals" who live nearer to J Tree are paying attention to this thread, it might be a good time to ask what the attraction of NJC is? I've never been there - is it worth a visit if passing by the area? I'm curious why people who live so near J Tree, which has 1000s of routes, would travel to NJC. Different weather? Different rock type? Different type of climbing?
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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NJC was developed long ago and for many years was considered somewhat of a chossy pile (Sorry Jack). We quite literally drove right past it on our way between JTree and Bishop dozens of times with no desire to even look at it.
Ultimately we did and happy for that. The routes are interesting and often bring up the discussions of what type of rock it is; much cleaner than anticipated with fun square edges to pull on. It's likely some sort of conglomerate which I'm sure people will add their opinions of. Some routes are short, some long in a wide range of grades. It's able to feed the masses by providing pretty quality routes to the newbies as well as experienced gym climbers chasing the numbers. Easy access with a variety of rock aspects that provide sun/shade for your day. Great shoulder season crag and often warmer and preferred to J-Tree in the winter when the winds are kicking up and crack climbing is feeling too cold.
I can't speak for all the locals but me, I like sport climbing and there isn't much to be had in Josh for that so travel is required. Plus, for me it's hard to get strong on 5.8 hands.
IMO, it's absolutely worth a visit if you're driving through. When traveling across the Country is it a destination crag? Probably not, but certainly fun to be had for a day in/out of your primary destination with easy drive up access and plenty to choose from.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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We have spent a LOT of time out at NJC over the years. These improvements are good as long as the host does't go overboard, kinda sounds like he/she is behaving too militantly (and is creepy, an added plus, right?!).
We stopped going to NJ regularly for several reasons, not the least of which was the uptick in crazies, shooting, crime, noise, rif raf, gangish OHV people, etc., especially after a particularly bad experience with the latter (pulling up in a huge, container sized trailer right next to where we were camped and sleeping, drunk, terrorizing us on 3 wheelers 2 feet from our friends' tents, lighting huge logs on fire that were left to sit smoldering in the dirt, yelling, screaming, partying and so on)...you get the picture.
It was nice to see that they kicked those guys out of the area and I think also put in a second toilet (?). Disheartening to read that a new problem may exist especially as it relates to where you can camp. BLM = camp anywhere, preferably in already used spots (plenty of those at NJ). This isn't forest service. How many campsites are there and what do you do if they're all taken? Camping out there is a matter of convenience (not for the beauty of the place) so you can climb 2 days and not drive 5 hours in one day...maybe have some peace and quiet, see some stars, enjoy the desert in the early morning.
Phylp it's a fun sport crag - like Sooze says, lots of different grades, easy access to climbs...it helps keep you in shape! There are sunny walls for winter time...like anywhere it can get too cold if it's windy and certain areas can get crowded. I'd say it's worth a stop though, especially if it's mid week.
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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NJC is a great place to throw down when driving straight through from PDX to Joshua Tree. Almost always has campsites available. Get up in the morning, do a couple of routes, then head to the monument.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Susan and Crusher, I appreciate the info.
I just ordered the 3rd edition of the Mayr guide - I had the first edition but nothing about NJC was in that one.
Thanks, Phyl
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Update
We were out there this weekend. I did not personally have a conversation with the host, but a person we were camping with talked to him.
The host was polite and only seemed interested in keeping everyone happy and safe so the host-bashing may be undeserved.
The issues/crackdowns are all items listed on the sign and are as follows:
Speeding is a huge issue. A camper's dog was recently killed by a speeding vehicle, so they are trying to keep campers and their pets safe. The dust from speeding tends to linger and sucks ass for the campers
...so please observe the speed limit.
Trash dumped in the restrooms is a big problem. There are no dumpsters, so people (not sure if it is campers or climbers) are dumping huge amounts of trash in the privies and it is a pain in the ass to clean up.
...so please pack out your trash.
Large loud parties have been camping and violating the quiet-time curfews. Evidently some (not all) of these groups have indeed been climbers, and they were not kicked out .. just asked to please quiet down when the party went too late.
...so please respect the quiet-time curfew.
All of these things seem like reasonable requests for a pretty nice free campground with tons of climbing, so it behooves the climbing community to respect them and help keep things kosher with the BLM IMHO.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Actually.. it was a guy that talked to him.. not me... ;)
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Evidently a couple of pre-dinner margaritas puts me more on my game :)
Edit to add: I dunno.. guy could be a bi-polar dick-wad and we just caught him on a nice-guy day. Just reporting what I heard this weekend. The concerns seemed legit.
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Oh yeah, my attraction is strictly week-days which is pretty quiet and host guy mellow. Although, I have been there on a Saturday before and not my preference. I'm fortunate that I no longer fall into the weekend warrior title and generally leave the sport crags to those who are less fortunate punching the M-F clock.
I couldn't agree more with Crusher, it's a good place to go and relatively convenient to work on strength. Low desert, nice temps for 8 months out of the year doesn't hurt either.
The Mayr guide is pretty weak with many mistakes but Mountain Project does a good job of identifying the issues; plus with any experience you'll quickly be able to decipher the mix ups between line numbers and topos. It's still a good reference, just beware, it is not the gospel.
Justhemaid, did you guys have fun? Busy?
~Sooze
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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I've been out there for plenty of day- trips, but this was our first time actually camping there. It's not scenic, but the campgrounds are quite nice with the covered tables, fire pit, and even a built-in charcoal grill if that's your thing. Can't beat the price... that being FREE and you don't have to dodge gunfire and junkies like the good 'ol old days.
We had fun. Got my ass kicked since I'm not used to all the upside-down holds.
If you got the new info off Mountain Proj and actually took a walk somewhere other than Raven or Boyscout there wasn't a soul around.. even on the weekend.
\
BTW Locker... we went looking for "Bloot" and ended up lost in the choss-piles climbing some other random mystery routes LOL.
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