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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 20, 2012 - 02:10am PT
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^^ white guy named the video
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Nov 20, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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Question for all those who think Ashima has an advantage because of her strength to weight ratio, what do you have to say about her much shorter reach? Is that some sort of advantage, too:-)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Nov 20, 2012 - 03:08am PT
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If I was Obe I'd ignore established routes, and put her on a strict đΊet of FAs - be them shitty or 5 stars.
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zxcvbnm
climber
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Nov 20, 2012 - 09:47am PT
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@bhilden Actually shorter arms gives the advantage of better leverage. But more reach would be more valuable than this.
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bigwall shitter
Social climber
the wild west
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Dec 10, 2012 - 03:04am PT
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so does her coach get paid to give her beta or is he there on his own accord? Sh#t, I mean does he do any climbing of his own?
It's great that she's so talented, but ninja warrior princess? Why can't she just be climbing without all this bullsh#t?
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Dec 10, 2012 - 03:20am PT
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jogill for the win- 1907!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 10, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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People point to Sharma, Caldwell, etc as young guns who didn't burn out and continued to climb harder as they grew into adult sized frames. But if you really tease that out a bit, they didn't progress as much as we might have expected...and I put a lot of that down to growing into an adult body.
Huh? What kind of "Expectations" did you have...? Flying through the air by flapping their wings? Sharma and Caldwell have done some of the hardest things EVER done, and Caldwell has probably freed more El Cap routes than anybody. Sharma has climbed 5.15+, there is not 5.16..sheesh
and there's folks saying "but she's not doing bold routes" Huh? She's 11. People would call the police if her folks were putting her on bold routes. Besides, that bouldering she's doing is off the ground and hard as crap, you hit the ground every time.
You know who one of the first kid phenomenas was? They used to call him "boy wonder." Ron Kauk, still throwing it down in middle age.
Watch her climb, it's not just strength to weight ratio, she's got skills.
It's threatening to us that an 11 year old can crank this hard, because we like to take some validation for our specialness from being a climber, and that seems silly when an 11 year old can crank the hardest routes (or that a monkey can climb 5.17 without a rope)
We should get over that because few can be #1 and even they are not #1 at everything.
Its wasn't long ago that nobody had flashed a 5.14. Things are changing quickly all the time.
She doesn't have to stick with the sport to have made her mark. We all have different paths. She's bad ass now, and I'll bet if she wants to be bad ass later, she will be
Peace
Karl
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 10, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
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Everybody doing the hardest grades of any aspect of this sport have genetic advantages.
and all climbing is dangerous. Some of the best trad climbers around like Largo and Lynne Hill have decked in the gym.
PEace
Karl
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 10, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
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If you watch the top men in the Olympics doing the Roman Rings, their strength to weight ratio is amazing. My guess is that with a few months training and practice, they could do some very hard climbing moves. The skill set is not entirely the same, but a lot would carry over.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Dec 10, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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She doesn't have to stick with the sport to have made her mark. We all have different paths. She's bad ass now, and I'll bet if she wants to be bad ass later, she will be
As a point of language, "bad ass" doesn't mean merely being good at something, except perhaps by slipshod extension.
Can we just agree that she's very good at holding onto small holds? And that at least part of that is because she's small and smaller people are better at holding onto small holds than larger people? This isn't that complicated.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 10, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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Can we just agree that she's very good at holding onto small holds? And that at least part of that is because she's small and smaller people are better at holding onto small holds than larger people? This isn't that complicated.
Because it's demeaning. People used to say stuff like that about Beth before she freed the Nose and climbed 5.13 cracks. Placing gear is not rocket science. It takes a LOT more than crimping to climb 5.14+.
Yes she has an advantage. Everybody who climbs 5.14+ has an advantage. Everybody who wins an olympic gymnastic gold medal has an advantage as well but you still have to perfect the double twisting flips and such
Peace
Karl
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Dec 10, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
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"
The oblivious self-caricature in this statement is priceless. no wonder people dismiss this forum as a bunch of irrelevant , has-been blowhards. "
IMO, calling someone a "has been" implies that at one point, they were actually someone. There's less than 20 people in total on this forum who were ever actually someone who at some point accomplished anything anyone would care about.
The rest are what is known as a "never was", and the only ones with anything negative to say are in that group.
Anyone see Ament, Gill, Coz, Long, RickA (or imagine bachar were he still here) making such comments?
Of course not, and here is why:
In any sport, there is an inverse relationship between skill and ego. We are seeing the output of that formula right here, in real time.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 10, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
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Anyone see Ament, Gill, Coz, Long, RickA (or imagine bachar were he still here) making such comments?
Of course not, and here is why:
In any sport, there is an inverse relationship between skill and ego. We are seeing the output of that formula right here, in real time.
Folks like Bachar and others had plenty of ego. That doesn't mean they had to put down the accomplishments of others.
I'd bet anything the lady would still be able to pull 5.14 when she is 20 if she sticks with it, the rest of the kids wonders who stuck with it seem to be able to
Peace
Karl
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Dec 10, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
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I'd bet anything the lady would still be able to pull 5.14 when she is 20 if she sticks with it, the rest of the kids wonders who stuck with it seem to be able to How would you have any idea? Maybe the ones who "stuck with it" were the ones who could adapt well to adult climbing, and the "wonder kids" who couldn't tended to quit?
Lots of funny conjecture and projecting on this thread, that's for sure, no matter which side of the "debate" you're on.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Dec 10, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
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Well, i'm not a genius here, but judging by how small her parents are, she won't grow THAT MUCH. She'll still be strong. It's not like a 2 1/2 foot tall 7 year old pulling on 5.12d who hasn't hit the grow spurt to be 6'2 yet.
You old hater f*cks are tossers.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 10, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
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How would you have any idea? Maybe the ones who "stuck with it" were the ones who could adapt well to adult climbing, and the "wonder kids" who couldn't tended to quit?
Lots of funny conjecture and projecting on this thread, that's for sure, no matter which side of the "debate" you're on.
Because I've been climbing for over 30 years and seen sh#t. It's not like we see kids climb 5.14 and then get weaker as they reach puberty and quit because of that. It's more like they either find other things to do in life or keep shredding it.
Kauk quit for years and years but came back stronger.
Of course the same goes of all of us. Some of us get fat or weak and some don't. The unusual thing is that we're ragging on this 11 year old kid who has done things (like onsight 5.14) that a few years ago hadn't been done in the history of climbing by ANYONE of any age or size
Peace
Karl
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 10, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
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Jesus. I just scanned as much of this thread as I could stomach. C'mon people. Is this question serious? Really?!
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jstan
climber
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Dec 10, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
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What Ashira does is her business. The only question she needs to ask is, "Did I enjoy what I did today?"
Everything else is noise.
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SeaClimb
climber
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Dec 10, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
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blahblah,
Do you actually know any of these kids that can climb 5.13 or 5.14? I'm thinking you don't. They are very very skilled at much more than crimping small holds. Many of them have phenomenal slab climbing (true friction). A lot of them are excellent crack climbers (yes, offwidth as well).
Their dynoing capability is off the chart. They are highly versed in gymnastic climbing.
In short, they will pretty much crush you in any type of climbing.
They don't have the limitations of needing to work, they have summers off, most of them have parents that fund trips. They have coaches that know what they are doing and they have PASSION for climbing. You simply can not compete, not that you are. I only state this because your posts seem to have an underlying current of "Well, its really not that hard FOR HER".
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