Ashira and 14c- Thoughts?

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Messages 181 - 200 of total 234 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Oct 31, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
meh..

I'm much more interested in the climber who keeps his own life full with family, career, spirit, contribution to others and still pulls hard trad or mountain in between it all. That climber has my admiration. That's who I want to hear about.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
the friction on the rope takes about 10 kilos of weight down and it won’t be fair

Must be a heavy mofunkin rope. Get that kid a 9.2 and he'll be sending 5.17c
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
I think he uses 8.9.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
A better climber then me, and the rest of us, at least at sport climbing and bouldering.

Good for you Ashima!!!! WAY to go!!!!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
^^^
What, with a bowling ball tied to it? My 9.7 only weighs about 3.5kg.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
I imagine you know what rope drag is.

Now imagine a 45m crux. It's not a strait wall. The terrain changes. That's the rope going a bunch of different ways.


Rope drag.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
You guys are cute- fighting on the internet an all. RAAAWWRRR
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
I think elcap thinks rope drag is the weight of the rope from the belayer to the climber only. LOL

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
I like the video with the coaches, it seems to be all about fun & not just winning.
toadgas

Trad climber
los angeles
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
-

so whats Shakira up to these days?


http://thepremierleague.eu/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/shakira.jpg


-


GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
OH BABY WHEN YOU TALK LIKE THAAAAAT

YOU MAAAAKE A WOMAN GO MAAAD


SO BE WISE
AND KEEP ON



REEEDING THE SIGNS OF MY BODYYYYYYYYYY




(^^^^ that sh#t is 8C ass-jiggling, and God damnit, if it makes her happy, I APPRECIATE IT. YOU HEAR ME SHAK-BABY, DON'T STOP CUZ THE HATERZZ)
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 31, 2012 - 04:19pm PT

Shreiking stickboy skips clip, claiming that clipping it will make the route not fair.

Now my czechglish isn't exactly dialed, but when someone claims it wouldn't be "fair" to clip that bolt, I assume he means it would make the route easier, which implies it is taking weight off. There are really only two ways that making a clip instead of skipping it will physically make the climbing easier...either by adding drag that helps to counter a swing, or by taking weight off.

If you clip above your waist, you're essentially getting a winch-up by the weight of the rope (after accounting for the reduction in rope weight by the drag through the pro), thereby taking weight off. This is what I assume our 116lb wailing like a harpooned racoon protagonist Ondra is talking about whe he says "fair". Now I could be wrong, as again, I don't have my czechglish dictionary handy, he could mean it wouldn't be fair to have more rope drag by clipping that bolt because it would be harder, but that's not how I read it.

But please, Mikey, elighten us all on the concept of rope drag. I don't think I've ever heard of or experienced that.
SeaClimb

climber
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
No Elcap, what he meant was probably more likely the arresting the swing out...my guess anyway...
all in jim

climber
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
In one of the videos she climbs "See Spot Run" a 25-foot high V6 in Hueco.

I'd like to see some of her detractors on here do that.
Silver

Ice climber
Nov 1, 2012 - 12:09am PT
What this girl needs is a month with Lynn Hill on the road and exploring what' s possible.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Nov 1, 2012 - 11:42am PT
No skill tosser on v15/16.

http://vimeo.com/17447512
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 1, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
What this girl needs is a month with Lynn Hill on the road and exploring what' s possible.

She has been on the road for a pretty long time.

To be honest watching kids climb etc makes me a bit jealous. I wish I started climbing at a younger age so that my technique now was much better. Although climbing for me DOES come down to having fun, I do also consider it a true art. Like dancers, the climbers with good technique are awesome to watch. It feels great when you figure out a move and make something very strenuous into a natural body movement- just by changing position of your body. At times I feel like a terrible dancer, and it sucks. So watching these kids (or other climbers with better technique) is quite motivational. Have no idea why some people have the need to put them down for the type of climbing they enjoy.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 1, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
I started climbing much younger, in a gym, and I don't think it would be 'better' - just different. Probably you wouldn't have become as rad an alpinist if you devoted more days to bouldering, sport climbing, campus board workouts, sh#t you have to do if you want to climb hard plastic (which, if you're a kid in a gym, seems like a really, really cool idea).
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 1, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
Truth is that I am not an alpinist, and for sure far from rad. Mountaineer- more like it. Pulling hard and having better climbing technique would help me a lot though. But again this thread is about these amazing kids- my hat is off. Hope they enjoy it as much as they say they do!
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Nov 1, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
To be honest watching kids climb etc makes me a bit jealous. I wish I started climbing at a younger age so that my technique now was much better. Although climbing for me DOES come down to having fun, I do also consider it a true art. Like dancers, the climbers with good technique are awesome to watch. It feels great when you figure out a move and make something very strenuous into a natural body movement- just by changing position of your body. At times I feel like a terrible dancer, and it sucks. So watching these kids (or other climbers with better technique) is quite motivational. Have no idea why some people have the need to put them down for the type of climbing they enjoy.

Why the little girl can climb much harder than you (and me) has little if anything to do with technique. Just strength-to-weight ratio, and tiny fingers for what to you are tiny holds (to her, they're jugs). The ability to hang on to small holds requires no special "technique."

I guess her technique is good, just like I imagine that Usain Bolt has at least pretty good sprinting technique. But if you think that's why he's faster than you are . . .
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