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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 31, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
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OH BABY WHEN YOU TALK LIKE THAAAAAT
YOU MAAAAKE A WOMAN GO MAAAD
SO BE WISE
AND KEEP ON
REEEDING THE SIGNS OF MY BODYYYYYYYYYY
(^^^^ that sh#t is 8C ass-jiggling, and God damnit, if it makes her happy, I APPRECIATE IT. YOU HEAR ME SHAK-BABY, DON'T STOP CUZ THE HATERZZ)
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 31, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
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Shreiking stickboy skips clip, claiming that clipping it will make the route not fair.
Now my czechglish isn't exactly dialed, but when someone claims it wouldn't be "fair" to clip that bolt, I assume he means it would make the route easier, which implies it is taking weight off. There are really only two ways that making a clip instead of skipping it will physically make the climbing easier...either by adding drag that helps to counter a swing, or by taking weight off.
If you clip above your waist, you're essentially getting a winch-up by the weight of the rope (after accounting for the reduction in rope weight by the drag through the pro), thereby taking weight off. This is what I assume our 116lb wailing like a harpooned racoon protagonist Ondra is talking about whe he says "fair". Now I could be wrong, as again, I don't have my czechglish dictionary handy, he could mean it wouldn't be fair to have more rope drag by clipping that bolt because it would be harder, but that's not how I read it.
But please, Mikey, elighten us all on the concept of rope drag. I don't think I've ever heard of or experienced that.
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 31, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
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No Elcap, what he meant was probably more likely the arresting the swing out...my guess anyway...
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all in jim
climber
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Oct 31, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
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In one of the videos she climbs "See Spot Run" a 25-foot high V6 in Hueco.
I'd like to see some of her detractors on here do that.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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What this girl needs is a month with Lynn Hill on the road and exploring what' s possible.
She has been on the road for a pretty long time.
To be honest watching kids climb etc makes me a bit jealous. I wish I started climbing at a younger age so that my technique now was much better. Although climbing for me DOES come down to having fun, I do also consider it a true art. Like dancers, the climbers with good technique are awesome to watch. It feels great when you figure out a move and make something very strenuous into a natural body movement- just by changing position of your body. At times I feel like a terrible dancer, and it sucks. So watching these kids (or other climbers with better technique) is quite motivational. Have no idea why some people have the need to put them down for the type of climbing they enjoy.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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I started climbing much younger, in a gym, and I don't think it would be 'better' - just different. Probably you wouldn't have become as rad an alpinist if you devoted more days to bouldering, sport climbing, campus board workouts, sh#t you have to do if you want to climb hard plastic (which, if you're a kid in a gym, seems like a really, really cool idea).
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Truth is that I am not an alpinist, and for sure far from rad. Mountaineer- more like it. Pulling hard and having better climbing technique would help me a lot though. But again this thread is about these amazing kids- my hat is off. Hope they enjoy it as much as they say they do!
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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To be honest watching kids climb etc makes me a bit jealous. I wish I started climbing at a younger age so that my technique now was much better. Although climbing for me DOES come down to having fun, I do also consider it a true art. Like dancers, the climbers with good technique are awesome to watch. It feels great when you figure out a move and make something very strenuous into a natural body movement- just by changing position of your body. At times I feel like a terrible dancer, and it sucks. So watching these kids (or other climbers with better technique) is quite motivational. Have no idea why some people have the need to put them down for the type of climbing they enjoy.
Why the little girl can climb much harder than you (and me) has little if anything to do with technique. Just strength-to-weight ratio, and tiny fingers for what to you are tiny holds (to her, they're jugs). The ability to hang on to small holds requires no special "technique."
I guess her technique is good, just like I imagine that Usain Bolt has at least pretty good sprinting technique. But if you think that's why he's faster than you are . . .
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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She climbs BETTER than you.
No excuses. Get over it.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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^^^^^
Beta male
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Facepalm.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Ashima has excellent technique to complement her strength to weight ratio.
Accept it, guys. She's the future of the sport.
Heed wise counsel from Kerwin: Alpinism is still available.
Or polish your rationalizations.
;>)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Don't worry, John, on her 14th birthday she'll climb the Rupal Face and all us will have to cling to Aid Climbing as the "Real Climbing."
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Epic E
Big Wall climber
CA
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Does anyone know if the climbs she red pointed and flashed where rap bolted?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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they were chiseled
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Man, glad I clicked that vid. Thanks.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Help me solidify my thoughts. I realize that this will remain a remarkable feat regardless of my/our opinions-- it just crys out for deeper contemplation
Adult climbers have pondered this issue since the beginnings of rock climbing as a recreational sport (1880s):
"Let anyone of ordinary height take a friendly small boy of an active nature for practice on such a place [high stone wall at home . . .] and he will have the pleasure of seeing him easily climb up vertical places that are much more difficult, or probably impossible, for the taller man, even though he may be an expert mountaineer." - George Abraham in The Complete Mountaineer (1907)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Staunch conservative movement versus free flowing aesthetics.
Yup, kids can teach old dogs new tricks.
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