Ashira and 14c- Thoughts?

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Messages 161 - 180 of total 223 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
LOL Climbing is great. If you f*#k up and break your head running things out you are an idiot. If you solo something and succeed you are bad ass.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
If you solo anything harder than 5.5, you're a danger to EVERYONE AT THE CRAG. But if you run out 5.10 slab you're a bad ass.



I don't get this double standard sh#t still.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
and if Ondra is running out sport climbing I say good for him it's about time someone did.

Just my .02, he isn't doing it to be bold, he's probably doing it because he can't stop.

Actually GD, you may not be quite right about that, Ondra has a history of running it out to be bold, or at least to comply with his notion of ethics.
Take a look at http://www.climbing.com/news/groundbreaking-515-gets-second-ascent/
describing his repeat of a hard sport route (Open Air):
"According to photographer Vojtech Vrzba, Ondra skipped an easily clipped bolt before the crux because, he said, “If I clip it, the friction on the rope takes about 10 kilos of weight down and it won’t be fair.” The result was sporting 50-foot falls from the crux moves."
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
That's not to be bold. That's for strategy.
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
meh..

I'm much more interested in the climber who keeps his own life full with family, career, spirit, contribution to others and still pulls hard trad or mountain in between it all. That climber has my admiration. That's who I want to hear about.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
the friction on the rope takes about 10 kilos of weight down and it won’t be fair

Must be a heavy mofunkin rope. Get that kid a 9.2 and he'll be sending 5.17c
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
I think he uses 8.9.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
A better climber then me, and the rest of us, at least at sport climbing and bouldering.

Good for you Ashima!!!! WAY to go!!!!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
^^^
What, with a bowling ball tied to it? My 9.7 only weighs about 3.5kg.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
I imagine you know what rope drag is.

Now imagine a 45m crux. It's not a strait wall. The terrain changes. That's the rope going a bunch of different ways.


Rope drag.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
You guys are cute- fighting on the internet an all. RAAAWWRRR
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
I think elcap thinks rope drag is the weight of the rope from the belayer to the climber only. LOL

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
I like the video with the coaches, it seems to be all about fun & not just winning.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
OH BABY WHEN YOU TALK LIKE THAAAAAT

YOU MAAAAKE A WOMAN GO MAAAD


SO BE WISE
AND KEEP ON



REEEDING THE SIGNS OF MY BODYYYYYYYYYY




(^^^^ that sh#t is 8C ass-jiggling, and God damnit, if it makes her happy, I APPRECIATE IT. YOU HEAR ME SHAK-BABY, DON'T STOP CUZ THE HATERZZ)
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 31, 2012 - 07:19pm PT

Shreiking stickboy skips clip, claiming that clipping it will make the route not fair.

Now my czechglish isn't exactly dialed, but when someone claims it wouldn't be "fair" to clip that bolt, I assume he means it would make the route easier, which implies it is taking weight off. There are really only two ways that making a clip instead of skipping it will physically make the climbing easier...either by adding drag that helps to counter a swing, or by taking weight off.

If you clip above your waist, you're essentially getting a winch-up by the weight of the rope (after accounting for the reduction in rope weight by the drag through the pro), thereby taking weight off. This is what I assume our 116lb wailing like a harpooned racoon protagonist Ondra is talking about whe he says "fair". Now I could be wrong, as again, I don't have my czechglish dictionary handy, he could mean it wouldn't be fair to have more rope drag by clipping that bolt because it would be harder, but that's not how I read it.

But please, Mikey, elighten us all on the concept of rope drag. I don't think I've ever heard of or experienced that.
SeaClimb

climber
Oct 31, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
No Elcap, what he meant was probably more likely the arresting the swing out...my guess anyway...
all in jim

climber
Oct 31, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
In one of the videos she climbs "See Spot Run" a 25-foot high V6 in Hueco.

I'd like to see some of her detractors on here do that.
Silver

Ice climber
Nov 1, 2012 - 03:09am PT
What this girl needs is a month with Lynn Hill on the road and exploring what' s possible.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Nov 1, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
No skill tosser on v15/16.

http://vimeo.com/17447512
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 1, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
What this girl needs is a month with Lynn Hill on the road and exploring what' s possible.

She has been on the road for a pretty long time.

To be honest watching kids climb etc makes me a bit jealous. I wish I started climbing at a younger age so that my technique now was much better. Although climbing for me DOES come down to having fun, I do also consider it a true art. Like dancers, the climbers with good technique are awesome to watch. It feels great when you figure out a move and make something very strenuous into a natural body movement- just by changing position of your body. At times I feel like a terrible dancer, and it sucks. So watching these kids (or other climbers with better technique) is quite motivational. Have no idea why some people have the need to put them down for the type of climbing they enjoy.
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