Ashira and 14c- Thoughts?

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PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
"the first poster says he wonders if she understands the life threatening consequences of the sport" she doesn't she is only 11 yrs old and it is sport climbing where you can take fall after fall with little or no consequences. It is the nature of sport climbing, climbing with very little risk; if you love it great have fun, personnally I find it a bit boring. BTW my first sentence was " I think it is great that she is 11 yrs old and she is sending hard stuff" . and if Ondra is running out sport climbing I say good for him it's about time someone did.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
Maybe you should try to see how hard you can push yourself on sport. But whatever you're into.


Running out sport on overhanging face isn't that cool. Just means you have a greater chance of plummeting into the less steep terrain below
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 31, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
It's pretty obvious who is just reading the first few sentances from the OP and replying.

The threads got enough pages now that people aren't browsing counter arguments, kind of funny. Like, right after refuting a point it will get brought up by someone who felt the need to vomit their thoughts out to the world.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 31, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
and if Ondra is running out sport climbing I say good for him it's about time someone did.

Just my .02, he isn't doing it to be bold, he's probably doing it because he can't stop.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
BUT BEING BOLD AND DANGEROUS IS WHAT CLIMBING IS ALL ABOUT.


Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
LOL Climbing is great. If you f*#k up and break your head running things out you are an idiot. If you solo something and succeed you are bad ass.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
If you solo anything harder than 5.5, you're a danger to EVERYONE AT THE CRAG. But if you run out 5.10 slab you're a bad ass.



I don't get this double standard sh#t still.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
and if Ondra is running out sport climbing I say good for him it's about time someone did.

Just my .02, he isn't doing it to be bold, he's probably doing it because he can't stop.

Actually GD, you may not be quite right about that, Ondra has a history of running it out to be bold, or at least to comply with his notion of ethics.
Take a look at http://www.climbing.com/news/groundbreaking-515-gets-second-ascent/
describing his repeat of a hard sport route (Open Air):
"According to photographer Vojtech Vrzba, Ondra skipped an easily clipped bolt before the crux because, he said, “If I clip it, the friction on the rope takes about 10 kilos of weight down and it won’t be fair.” The result was sporting 50-foot falls from the crux moves."
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
That's not to be bold. That's for strategy.
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
meh..

I'm much more interested in the climber who keeps his own life full with family, career, spirit, contribution to others and still pulls hard trad or mountain in between it all. That climber has my admiration. That's who I want to hear about.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
the friction on the rope takes about 10 kilos of weight down and it won’t be fair

Must be a heavy mofunkin rope. Get that kid a 9.2 and he'll be sending 5.17c
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
I think he uses 8.9.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
A better climber then me, and the rest of us, at least at sport climbing and bouldering.

Good for you Ashima!!!! WAY to go!!!!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
^^^
What, with a bowling ball tied to it? My 9.7 only weighs about 3.5kg.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
I imagine you know what rope drag is.

Now imagine a 45m crux. It's not a strait wall. The terrain changes. That's the rope going a bunch of different ways.


Rope drag.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
You guys are cute- fighting on the internet an all. RAAAWWRRR
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
I think elcap thinks rope drag is the weight of the rope from the belayer to the climber only. LOL

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
I like the video with the coaches, it seems to be all about fun & not just winning.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
OH BABY WHEN YOU TALK LIKE THAAAAAT

YOU MAAAAKE A WOMAN GO MAAAD


SO BE WISE
AND KEEP ON



REEEDING THE SIGNS OF MY BODYYYYYYYYYY




(^^^^ that sh#t is 8C ass-jiggling, and God damnit, if it makes her happy, I APPRECIATE IT. YOU HEAR ME SHAK-BABY, DON'T STOP CUZ THE HATERZZ)
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 31, 2012 - 07:19pm PT

Shreiking stickboy skips clip, claiming that clipping it will make the route not fair.

Now my czechglish isn't exactly dialed, but when someone claims it wouldn't be "fair" to clip that bolt, I assume he means it would make the route easier, which implies it is taking weight off. There are really only two ways that making a clip instead of skipping it will physically make the climbing easier...either by adding drag that helps to counter a swing, or by taking weight off.

If you clip above your waist, you're essentially getting a winch-up by the weight of the rope (after accounting for the reduction in rope weight by the drag through the pro), thereby taking weight off. This is what I assume our 116lb wailing like a harpooned racoon protagonist Ondra is talking about whe he says "fair". Now I could be wrong, as again, I don't have my czechglish dictionary handy, he could mean it wouldn't be fair to have more rope drag by clipping that bolt because it would be harder, but that's not how I read it.

But please, Mikey, elighten us all on the concept of rope drag. I don't think I've ever heard of or experienced that.
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