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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Oct 31, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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To me, climbing is firstly about movement. Of course there are other things, like camaraderie, commitment, love of the outdoors, etc. Some people have a special gift for movement. Michael Jordan could seemingly change direction in mid air. The best climbers, at least in terms of the grading system, are those with the greatest kinesthetic intelligence. With climbing's ever increasing popularity, we're certainly going to tap deeper into the gene pool.
To suggest that someone who is so gifted to be able to do high-end sport climbing couldn't learn to do repetitive movement in cracks or slabs or ice is ridiculous. It's all ego. Everyone's project is someone's warmup. Climbing is a lot more fun when you can let go of that and just enjoy the climbing -- and the camaraderie.
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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Oct 31, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
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"there's a bolt every 5 feet.." Go watch the vid of Ondra onsighting Mind Control at Oliana, dude's running it out.
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 31, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
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"the first poster says he wonders if she understands the life threatening consequences of the sport" she doesn't she is only 11 yrs old and it is sport climbing where you can take fall after fall with little or no consequences. It is the nature of sport climbing, climbing with very little risk; if you love it great have fun, personnally I find it a bit boring. BTW my first sentence was " I think it is great that she is 11 yrs old and she is sending hard stuff" . and if Ondra is running out sport climbing I say good for him it's about time someone did.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 31, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
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Maybe you should try to see how hard you can push yourself on sport. But whatever you're into.
Running out sport on overhanging face isn't that cool. Just means you have a greater chance of plummeting into the less steep terrain below
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 31, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
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It's pretty obvious who is just reading the first few sentances from the OP and replying.
The threads got enough pages now that people aren't browsing counter arguments, kind of funny. Like, right after refuting a point it will get brought up by someone who felt the need to vomit their thoughts out to the world.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 31, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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and if Ondra is running out sport climbing I say good for him it's about time someone did.
Just my .02, he isn't doing it to be bold, he's probably doing it because he can't stop.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 31, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
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BUT BEING BOLD AND DANGEROUS IS WHAT CLIMBING IS ALL ABOUT.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 31, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
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LOL Climbing is great. If you f*#k up and break your head running things out you are an idiot. If you solo something and succeed you are bad ass.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 31, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
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If you solo anything harder than 5.5, you're a danger to EVERYONE AT THE CRAG. But if you run out 5.10 slab you're a bad ass.
I don't get this double standard sh#t still.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Oct 31, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
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and if Ondra is running out sport climbing I say good for him it's about time someone did.
Just my .02, he isn't doing it to be bold, he's probably doing it because he can't stop.
Actually GD, you may not be quite right about that, Ondra has a history of running it out to be bold, or at least to comply with his notion of ethics.
Take a look at http://www.climbing.com/news/groundbreaking-515-gets-second-ascent/
describing his repeat of a hard sport route (Open Air):
"According to photographer Vojtech Vrzba, Ondra skipped an easily clipped bolt before the crux because, he said, “If I clip it, the friction on the rope takes about 10 kilos of weight down and it won’t be fair.” The result was sporting 50-foot falls from the crux moves."
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 31, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
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That's not to be bold. That's for strategy.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Oct 31, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
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meh..
I'm much more interested in the climber who keeps his own life full with family, career, spirit, contribution to others and still pulls hard trad or mountain in between it all. That climber has my admiration. That's who I want to hear about.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 31, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
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the friction on the rope takes about 10 kilos of weight down and it won’t be fair
Must be a heavy mofunkin rope. Get that kid a 9.2 and he'll be sending 5.17c
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 31, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
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I think he uses 8.9.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Oct 31, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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A better climber then me, and the rest of us, at least at sport climbing and bouldering.
Good for you Ashima!!!! WAY to go!!!!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 31, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
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^^^
What, with a bowling ball tied to it? My 9.7 only weighs about 3.5kg.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 31, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
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I imagine you know what rope drag is.
Now imagine a 45m crux. It's not a strait wall. The terrain changes. That's the rope going a bunch of different ways.
Rope drag.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 31, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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You guys are cute- fighting on the internet an all. RAAAWWRRR
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 31, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
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I think elcap thinks rope drag is the weight of the rope from the belayer to the climber only. LOL
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 31, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
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I like the video with the coaches, it seems to be all about fun & not just winning.
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