Ashira and 14c- Thoughts?


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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 30, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
whowever said she couldnt lead A6-- shed prolly do A7! hookin on a single nub with her weight! Thank GAWD climbers werent such machines always lol!

Trad climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
It looks like we all have different definitions for "climbing"
If climbing were like running and she were a great 100m runner but couldn't run a marathon, nobody would argue she still is great runner, right?
If climbing were like a decathlon, her 100m feat wouldn't make her a great decathlonist. For me climbing is closer to the decathlon, that's all.
I don't judge, what she does is very impressive, and it is up to her (I hope) what she does next, but IMO she is not a better climber than, lets say GDavis.
all in jim

Oct 30, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
Fred Nocole greatest boulderer of all time 180lbs.
Fred Nocole greatest boulderer of all time 180lbs.
Credit: all in jim

180lbs - V15. Think Fred's making excuses?


Social climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
I spent a LOT of time, a TON of training, working on HER discipline. She f*#ks me up on rock.

I have some old-guy tricks that might stave off the younger generation... for a little while... but they be comin', baby.

GilWad (Will Gadd, one of the greatest ice climbers to ever live) echos sentiments I think, too - all that gear-placing, thoughtful protection, belay building sh#t comes fast. I became about as 'smart' as a trad climber while being 50lbs overweight and never training. Once I took bouldering seriously as an art I started to onsight 5.10 instead of fall on 5.7's.... it all helps, but the physicality of HARD climbing is harder for some than all that other stuff.

Just my .02....

Somewhere out there
Oct 30, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
Having long been out of the climbing ring, my hopes are that this little girl looks at a completely blank wall with no routes on it and decides to put an incredible climb on it!!!

If this is what she can do at this age, with a little maturity she will surpass most if not all going forward.

Props to the young ones as they continue to stomp what many think impossible.

P.S. Age should not be your gauge on anyone's stature. The mind will get you anywhere

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 30, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
In watching the video of the contest, it is certainly amazing what those tho little girls have accomplished, but my impression of the routes is that there is a sameness to all of them; very steep, lunges, sloping holds.

It would be more interesting to see longer roped climbs; even if bolted, so that they could show their skill on off widths, flared chimneys, stemming, etc.

Not to mention a trad climbing contest, where they have to carry a rack.

Maybe someday someone will gut out a huge 1,200 foot high rise and make a large scale climbing gym.

I understand this was a bouldering contest, so there are more limitations.

Oct 30, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
Fred said he weighs 165 lbs in an interview

Oct 30, 2012 - 08:05pm PT
THere is no way Fred Nicole weighed 180 lbs...maybe 145 tops in his prime...the dude is like 5'-6"...


Oct 30, 2012 - 08:09pm PT

these kids can and do crush cracks, all kinds. my boy, at age 12 could crush 5.11 offwidths, 5.12 fingers, all types of hands, etc.

Face it guys, these kids are highly trained, only worry about school, have no kids themselves to worry about, coaches that no how to climb and "soccer" parents willing to get them everything they need. You can't compete with this...don't feel bad, you can't compete in girls gymnastics, but you still appreciate it, right?


Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Oct 30, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
So what if she climbs for another five years and then finds it boring, unrewarding and a self centered headtrip, or whatever. Or quits tomorrow cuz she decided she wanted to commit her life to serving other people, instead of pleasing a bunch of over the hill wannbee flakes. Or she has already quit and its nobodies business why and what she is gonna do with the rest of her life!

What a lame thread. Ain't you people got anything better to do?????!!

Oh yeah, this is SuperDopo!!!

edit: I mean really, is success or failure in climbing a f*#kin rock the be all and endall in life on this planet? How you judge your fellow human beings? Put them on pedestal's and then knock them down when they nolonger meet YOUR standards/criteria, or whatever?

She is 11 y.o., for goodness sakes, give her a f'n break. No wonder kid's "burnout" and whatever they were enjoying is no longer "fun" because they're being scrutinized night and day over every iota of their frickin lives!! Sheeeeesh!!!!

And people wonder why young girls become so weight conscious and bulemic or whatever and end up like Karen Carpenter, thin as a rail and ... F'n, DEAD!!!

edit/edit: BUT, personally, I hope she goes on to crush the hell out of every F'n Stone on the planet (if that's HER desire) ... (and is having the MOST fun = the winner, ala Alex Lowe "Whoever is having the most fun wins!")!

Trad climber
los angeles
Oct 30, 2012 - 08:44pm PT

frankly, this kid bores me...

when she starts 3rd-classing exposed 5.12+...then I'll pay some attention

Honnold has stretched the outer limits of extreme armchair adventuring


Trad climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
rad. that is so kuehl.

ewe old phuckers better prey she doesnt take up "trad" climbing.

for a start, lucille would become a 5.6 chimney. supercrack would be an easy layback.

she's still at an age where she learns languages overnight. how long would it take her to learn how to place a hex? it's not brain science.

alpinism is another question. experience counts there because you build up a local vocabulary of conditions.

Social climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:23pm PT
Oh f*#k my life! Why didn't I start climbing before 24?!? Should I quit now? Since it is obviously useless to continue.

Wow, way to misread my post Vitaliy. Thanks to GDavis for puttin' it rite.

"MOST" was the word I used. I repeat "MOST" .

Carry on.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
in the latest Real Rock Film Tour there was a video of Sharma and Ondra working a Sharma project in Spain... I thought for sure I wouldn't like it at all, not that I have anything against endless scenes of repeated grunting-while-hucking-for-holds-on-overhanging-faces activities that I couldn't ever touch...

the main point of the video, besides showing the protagonists in a golden light (Chris was the "old man" in this one!) was that they didn't succeed, it was a whole video in which they failed.

that is so much more genuine that I actually fell for it...

We all try to do things that are too hard for us to do, at least in climbing. It is a great activity that way, it is unique. There is no way I can participate in the World Series or the Super Bowl or the World Cup, but I can attempt Midnight Lightning and even get cheered on by our "sport's" superstars (as had been reported in a TR elsewhere on this site by someone).

Yosemite is open, it is the Super Bowl and we can go there and play the game at any level... or challenge ourselves to. And at every level there is accomplishment and satisfaction and achievement.

While we complain as a group about the popularity of climbing (at least us old crustys) we somehow loss sight of the fact that we have an intensely personal affinity to going out and climbing. Who cares who else is doing it... I'm doing it

Hudon and Croft and Donini and many others (Freddy, you're up there too!) are inspirational to me, hopefully to others much younger than me, because they get out there and climb at a high level, still, and they still have an ocean of enthusiasm for it... they're obviously having fun, and perhaps getting something more meaningful out of it too.

And the young climbers are also inspirational, and amazing, because they represent climbing and are actually taking it somewhere, and they do it as a part of the historical progression, giving their own twist on it, bringing their innovations and their fresh look.

I remember the first time I saw Yosemite Valley, the March morning I woke up after the late night drive in. I don't see the Valley like that, exactly, anymore, but I know there are those who do, and I'm excited for them.

Ashira is legitimately doing hard routes and deserves the recognition. Who knows or even who cares what she'll do with it, I hope she's having at least as much fun as I am.

Social climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
how long would it take her to learn how to place a hex? it's not brain science.

And she's Japanese - have you SEEN their arcade games?! That sh#t be intricate.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:35pm PT
yikes, I was the only one who mentioned "alpine" and got slapped down by Gadd for it...
hopefully I wasn't so incoherent to have been interpreted as opining alpine is the epitome of climbing!

rather it is demonstrably different than sport climbing, I believe Alex Lowe was also accomplished in that, but the indifference of objective hazards to one's hardest red-point ability was tragic.

Certainly on the other side of the frontier I was talking about...
nick d

Trad climber
Oct 31, 2012 - 01:05am PT
The only thing that creeps me out about this is the "already trained under several talented coaches" bit. Like in gymnastics where they make the kids starve themselves to put off the onset of puberty so they can stay competetive?

Or doing hormones or other drugs for the same purpose? Adults should not be channeling their goals into little kids, just let them do what they want, what is fun for them. Think about all those creepy gymnastics coaches you see at the bigtime meets. Do you want your kid mentally dominated by people like that?

Social climber
Oct 31, 2012 - 08:20am PT

Having a coach != taking steroids and starving yourself.

Geez louis, stop projecting. Way to cast judgement before ever meeting her, or her parents.

Social climber
Oct 31, 2012 - 09:58am PT
Like in gymnastics where they make the kids starve themselves to put off the onset of puberty so they can stay competetive?

Or doing hormones or other drugs for the same purpose? Adults should not be channeling their goals into little kids, just let them do what they want, what is fun for them. Think about all those creepy gymnastics coaches you see at the bigtime meets. Do you want your kid mentally dominated by people like that?

Wow, nick, go big or go home, eh?

Women's gymnastics has a bad rap for the coach-parent-athlete triad gone wrong. Yes there are obvious and ghastly incidents of child abuse in the sport - whether it's parents living vicariously through their daughter or coaches allowing their ego to push the child.

I have witnessed both behaviors in gymnastics but I've also seen it in other competitive kids sports as well. Hockey comes to mind right away ( my son played for 7 years; my daughter for 4 )

I've also witnessed strong, flexible girls who are self-motivated and who work hard (I teach several who fit this description ) and are between the ages of 8 and 11. These girls LOVE their sport, LOVE to train and get really good really fast.

I don't know Ashima but I would most certainly NOT immediately cast her situation into one of pushing parents and coaches.

Indeed I am inclined to think she is one of those really motivated and physically capable girls who LOVES her sport and does REALLY well at it.

She challenges our impressions of what we know as "climbing" in a powerfully positive manner.

Here's wishing Ashima the very best in her endeavours.

Oct 31, 2012 - 10:03am PT
Routes just are. Difficulty is an individual issue, stemming from the confluence of the climber's characteristics with those of the route. Our numbers are imperfect assemblages of individually assessed difficulties from each climber's internally relative scale, which of course is tempered to some degree by interactions with the 'consensus'. How can we truly know what the difficulties are for any given individual, short of intensively scrutinizing their morphometrics, psychological state, etc. and considering these factors in terms of each section of each route they attempt? And even then...

Every meeting of route and climber is so complex, but the outcome is pretty binary - climbed or not. Ashima has climbed some amazing routes, and that is amazing!

Much respect & best wishes to her,

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