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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 28, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
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"We always throw carrots off first"
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DMBARN
Trad climber
Modesto
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Oct 28, 2012 - 07:30pm PT
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I heard Paul tell that story at A16 in Santa Monica not too long after they did that. I still remember it to this day and smile. I forgot about the boulder part and just retell about the carrot toss and didn't someone break their clavicle from that carrot?
Doug
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Oct 28, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
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Good work Jody.
Time passes slowly up here in the mountains
We sit beside bridges and walk beside fountains
Catch the wild fishes that float through the stream
Time passes slowly when you’re lost in a dream
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Oct 28, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
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Feel bad not making it to this one. Events conspired against me. Love to see the silverbacks basking !
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Tim Camuti
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 28, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
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Sounds like it will be happening annually with a different theme each year! Very much looking forward to it- low cost, GREAT location and hospitality, wonderful food nearby and lodging within walking distance, the conference was a great success in addition to the obviously great content delivered in the numerous presentations. Well planned and enjoyable, I enjoyed the visit to Oakdale and REALLY enjoyed rubbing elbows with the greats of climbing. Not only are they great climbers with wonderful stories to tell, but great people with a lot of life experience to share even on the big picture issues of balancing work and play, family, money, business, travel, choices of priorities, etc.
Learning from our elders is just a rewarding endeavour and I hope more people are able to make it out next year for more stories and life lessons! It's almost like the Supertaco campfire LIVE. Thanks to all presenters for coming out and to the wonderful organizers, Frost and Grossman and Oakdale. WOoHoo!
Excited after a great weekend
Tim
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Oct 29, 2012 - 01:14am PT
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OH MY GOD! What a terrific experience. So many great exchanges with hero's and legends the likes of the 50th anniversary of the nose, YCA did a few years back.
Steck, Dick Long, Joe Fitchen, Glen Denny, Wayne Merry, Don Lauria, Paul Piana, Doug Robinson, Peter Haan, Ken Yager, Hans Florine, Bowinkle, Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, Bob Swift, Jerry Gallwas, Mike Sherrich, Nick Clinch, Rich Calderwood, Joe Mccuen, Ken Boche, and David Yearian plus many, many, others made these last few day made for an exciting time.
The stories, camaraderie, photos, priceless gear, perfect venue and Steve Grossmans many hours of preparation made for a union of our community tighter then ever. It warms my heart to see everyone gathering like this. With a loose fitting band of close nit individuals and small band of friends with wild but intimate experiences; opening up and sharing the secrets of the past.
Climbing is an integral, important and vital part history. It should be preserved and captured for the future of climbers and even the general public. Thanks to the work of people like Steve Grossman and Ken Yager and events like this will carry the message of our sport for many generations.
I feel very privileged to have participated in the 1st Climbers Festival of Oakdale. I only hope that this is the first of much more to come. Those of you who chose something else to do this weekend truly missed out on a magical moment in the climbing world. Steve, I have know idea if you can ever out do this one. I hope so but you set the bar pretty high. I will anticipate next years conference with relish!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 29, 2012 - 06:13am PT
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http://www.glendenny.com/portfolio2.html
It was a pleasure to meet Glen, a former resident of Merced County and Yosemite like myself. His book was being pretty much devoured by eager buyers of distinctive photography, it looked like.
The talented writer but, according to some publishers, NOT WELL-ENOUGH KNOWN Joe Fitschen had to take his act on the road to try and find a publisher, but like any of the men whospoke about making one's own equipment to meet the needs of certain first ascents, he took the bull by the horns and with his determination produced Whole Tone Press, his very own publishing company, which produced this fine-ass literature...
Joe is so worthy of your patronage. http://www.joefitschen.com
Here's my copy of Going Up. The first endpaper is the "Bad Boys Page" or the Eastsiders Page. The Title endpaper is the "Heroes Page." And the book at the Festival was $30, not $32, for those in attendance.
"The weather's been just beautiful the last 3 days. I know it had to have been amazing in Oakdale too. Life is just so grand and sweet. I wish I could be at all places and do everything. Far far too less time remaining."
The last is from Rick Sylvester, who spent the last several days x-c skiing on skins at Tahoe, hot-tubbing, bagging pine needles and watching the Series. Same with The Dingus, who couldn't resist the lure of some balm in the mountains, either. You guys make it next year to the Festival. NO EXCUSES!!!
Add a big bump for Jim "Crusher" Bartlett, whose fine book Desert Towers was on sale as well. He was so cool. He gave me this framed photo and one like it to Ben Robinson, my gracious host/chauffer for the weekend.
http://www.deserttowersbook.com/ or
http://www.sharpendbooks.com/
"Gentle Ben" was with The Mad Bolter on several expeditions in various locations. Do you know this spot? LilaBiene knows.
For myself, I thoroughly enjoyed Peter Haan's presentation the best of those I heard. Nice, interesting and very reflective. As only Peter is able to be. We said no stinkin' prayers, Jody!
I only missed Paul Piana's talk because I was spending time with LilaBiene and her Muppet downing pizza out in the plaza under the full moon. Paul told me later how he dinged that left leg. He also related how he broke the right leg at work in two places by getting bumped from a scaffold and landing forty feet below on concrete, no helmet! He claimed that was far worse. Great meeting him for the first time. He is now living in Newcastle, WY.
Wayne Merry, Fossil Climber, looks as robust as a slice of Irish cheese. Posture belongs to the young, too, folks. You will drink your milk, children. "Dot stuff vill not kill you."
This whole event revolved around the legend and life of John Salathe. We heard stories of angelsand either horse and colt or cow and calf: cobra venom supposedly being fed to John by Mrs. S. and his friends telling her to get the hell away (where in hell would she even GET cobra venom?); the story of the Model T axle, countered by the observation that he used no Model T axle because he had access to all the steel types and didn't have to rely on that source for the type of steel needed for the Salathe horizontals--yet John claimed to see one when visited by his friends at the rest home.
Tom Frost told us "you're never going to see a better hardware collection than this one here today." The staggering array of iron and aluminum and soft metal pitons included virtually all the well-known European brands of the early years as well as Longware, Holubar, Dolt, Chouinard, Leeper, Jerry Gallwas homemade ones, and others. There were, in addition, Dolt bashies, nuts, pulleys, and holsters, etc.
Tom's understated humor is priceless, and he made a few remarks worthy of reporting verbatim. (Yes, I was taking notes, gang.)
"What we have here is the real people...I can't even believe we're all still here....Steve has this vision of hardware and it won't go away."
"I never realized how shadowy this Chouinard character was....The most enjoyable ten years of my life was my employment as Chouinard's partner."
"I'd ride a bike from Anaheim to SantaMonica to visit him [Dolt]....We shared a common vision."
Frost is responsible for the lightening holes in their bong-bongs. He told us about Doug Robinson stopping at Tom's desk to look at the drawings for a new piece of gear. "Oh, that's a stopper," he said. Tom used two-loop aiders. Anything longer is for sissies like Royal.
Thank you, especially to Ramona Howard and Steve Grossman, our great MC, and his better 60%, Mimi.
And lastly, to the redoubltable Chicken Skinner, the Youngest Old Tier there, in his estimation. Good job, Ken! "Score, wow...whatever."
The Dolt was there today. Don Lauria gave a great history of West Ridge in LA, assisted by Ken Boche's comments, very welcome as the man's technical knowledge is exceptional. He worked for Don, as did many others like McLean, Hill, and Long. As the two were departing the stage after a heavy session on Bill Dolt's tragic death at his own hands, the Dolt spirit caused Don to bump the slide projection screen and down it went in Doltish glory! What would you expect with Odd, his daugher, and the Muppet, his granddaughter, present? It was one of those moments we treasure.
And you missed it!
Friday night we got to see Bill Nickell from Sunset, Phil Bircheff from over to Whitney Portal, as well as Dennis Oakshott. Jeff Mathis, the Rev, got to make Saturday afternoon, as did Mark Tuttle and his son, Logan, from Winton and Tuttle Outdoor. I finally got to meet up again with Tony Bird on Sunday after @ 23 years, too.
Beverly Wilson, Les' charming wife, shared with me how she met him on an organized ski mountaineering trip and how she got snagged into being the food coordinator for a two- or three-week-long expedition to Baffin Is. for some two dozen or so. She is an exceptional charmer and delightful conversationalist, Les, you lucky dog...
I'd like to thank the owner of Mountain Tools in Carmel, Larry Arthur, for allowing me to trade my raffle prize (oh, you blew your chances to win ropes, CBars, and T shirts, etc.) for a more useful item. He and the Rev and myself enjoyed a reverie of climbing the Monterey coast and rapping the Bixby Creek Bridge.
Thanks Wayno and Dave Yerian for the 4:20 "treatment."
I feel as if I have just completed my second social Grade VI in a month, but I had lots of help.
Like John Salathe said, "I'm delighted to have made it but I am Ax-hausted."
Will someone kidnap Roper next year and bring him kicking and screaming?
I can't wait for the BooDawg's post.
LilaBiene and the Muppet (Camila) will join BooDawg for some time in Mariposa, then head south to visit Mark Powell. Bon voyage, Sister Purple Bee!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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Non, quelle tragique! We know it wasn't That Darn French Guy or Phillipe. They didn't make it to the Festival, either.
A dollar says whoever spilled the water will never cop to it, Jody.
(Thanks, BTW.)
"Ach! I told you dot ve took too much vasser again, Anton, but you don't ever listen, vill you?"
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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I wondered about that prayer...
I first heard the carrot story from Todd quoting Paul. I can still see his expressions....
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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Wow! Didn't realize how awesome it was gonna be. I'll be there next year for sure. Great stuff, everyone!
edit: Jody - "Soaked!" -- Dang bro, that hurts just to hear about it! Sorry about that!! (if ya had yer gun, i wudda been tempted to shoot them in the foot or sumpthin'/they're lucky they split early, lol)! ...just kidding! ;)
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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Mouse - Do you know this spot? LilaBiene knows. Which route? DUH!
Dolt Tower/The Nose! ...DUH!!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 29, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
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Duh Word!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Oct 29, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
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i kinda accidently showed up at this and was delighted. stick with climbing--it'll keep you sharp well into your 80s and 90s and you will have friendships that last as long as you do.
cheers to steve grossman, whose brainchild this first-time event was. a tireless climb historian, he got a goldmine of information from the great climbers who told their stories here. plans are afoot for the second-annual already, and i wish him well with it.
the best part was staying up late and drinking (wine), then getting up early and drinking (coffee). continuing the grand tradition of "climb all day, party all night".
i think don lauria ought to get involved with publicity--his clever ads for long-ago west ridge mountaineering kinda went over my head. what's the difference between a deluxe and standard bivouac kit?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 29, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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That's what you call subtle advertising, TB. It makes you wonder, so you call and they get customer feedback. In theory.
So Dolt copied his ads. How's that work out for him.
You are right as rain when you say stick with climbing, the friendships last.
I've known the Rev and Jim Shirley and Wayne Merry and Donini over forty years, for example.
I hadn't seen Jim since 1996 until last June. The Reva and I get together when we can and always seem to enjoy the "Synch." Wayne and I haven't seen each other in forty years, until Friday. Donini I haven't laid eyes on in that long. I plan on rectifying that. The ST and the festival do this for all us climbers.
I just saw Tony Bird for the first time in over eighteen years, yet I recognized him and he recognized me immediately. Having been on a rope does this.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Oct 29, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
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BUMP
Tony, it was nice meeting you and hearing about the early days at Ventura and other stories.
Hey BooDawg, wheres the pic's? You took a ton of them!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Oct 29, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
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Pics are coming but delayed due to "techincal difficulties." Patience please...
Seems like at every gathering like this or Facelift, I come back to the Taco and realize that many from here attended the event, and I still didn't actually meet them. Like Jody, for example.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 29, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
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All I can say is, Wow, what a great heartfelt event. I have a new appreciation for the work Steve and Mimi do. I met so many of my heroes that I was a bit overwhelmed at times, and there were so many that I didn't get to meet and it is bittersweet because it is hard to say how long these guys will be around. The presentations were all so good and at times moving that it is hard to pick a favorite. Tom and Royal had me laughing hard one moment and holding back tears the next. Peter Haan's eloquence was also very moving. Paul Piana's cowboy humor and sense of humility was very refreshing. Al Steck's presence was commanding and I really enjoyed Nick Clinch talk about roping up The Man, Salathe.
I think more than all the great speakers and attendees present, the theme of the Road to Commitment and the many similar themes and philosophies really bound us all together. I will have plenty to ponder over the next few weeks and some great literature to enjoy.
Many thanks to all those involved in this wonderful event.
Dave, brother, thanks for coming with me to the fest and then taking me to Sonora to see my nephew. It meant a lot.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Oct 29, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
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Just prior to a very emotional moment when Don Laurie takes the mike. Felt it was not the best time to take a photo.
Steve did a great job and looking to go to 2013
And let me burn in hell for a few minutes for not coming on Friday night.
Sunday: What can I say but great history.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 29, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
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"Raise your hands, anyone, if you have done the Salathe."--Tom Frost on stage with RR
"We all have our shadows whether we know them or not."
and
"Ultimately, Dolt's life was his own responsibility."--Words of comfort from BooDawg for Don Lauria and all of us
Wow, the people who visit this forum are so articulate that it scares me to put anything down. But I am planning on traveling a bit to promote my new book,the second volume of my autobiography, Fail Falling (i.e. it's OK to fail, but go down trying). This book is about climbing in Southern California in the 1950's, which may seem like a long time ago to some of you, but not to me. Much of the climbing takes place on Tahquitz Rock, but I also visited Yosemite then, and recount the free ascent of the Higher Cathedral Spire in 1952 and the ascent of the North Face of Sentinel Rock in 1953. The Spire had been done free before (the first free ascent was by Chuck Wilts in 1947) and Don Wilson, Jerry Gallwas and I made the second ascent on Sentinel in 1953 (The first ascent was by Salathe and Steck in 1950). But I end the book with a description of the first ascent of the NW Face of Half Dome by Gallwas, Mike Sherrick, and me. I will post more later when I get the dates firmed up. Thanks for your attention.--RR post from last year
He's front and center in the plaid shirt.
Here's about the most appropiate shot of a hero I can find in this context. Pat Ament we surely could stand to see you here at Oakdale next year.
A haiku sequence for the old school, dedicated to the PO, our Poet Odsechoolate.
/Ten Haiku Boulder//
this aft
Warbler's sister's haikus
Skipt across his memory
Like a lead balloon.
this morn
Alyssa defined arc,
At the bookstore, as a part,
A circle segment.
she said
Arch comes from an arc,
Has nada to do with an ark,
Noah, nor Noe Valley.
recall
St. George's Homes are
Up on Arch Street in Berkeley.
Where kids go crazy.
sorta
Just like Roper,
Pratt, and Long, and all the rest
We climbed on the Arches.
it seems
A Long time ago
This crew descended: en masse
To TMs they went.
but when?
Oh, many years ago;
They needed priming, to know
Where they were needed.
and why?
Kids feed on heroes:
They pray for them and to them,
To be just like them.
even
Heroes sometimes die,
Taking us with them to hells
Which they don't deserve.
you see
What hero worship
Does? Kills what's inside of you
And nobody wins.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Oct 29, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Mouse great write up; hope Odd and the Muppet especially Odd will hopefully in time get a better chance now to communicate with Don.
Great seeing you, as well as great words and wisdom.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 12:14am PT
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There were times as I was taking it all in and not engaged in a particular conversation that I wished I was a mere fly on the wall to avoid the awkward pause of admiration.
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DM88T
climber
San Juan Bautista, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:08am PT
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I could only attend Friday. But many were arriving at the same time, meeting people they knew by rep and people they had not seen in some time. As the tables were just being set up and Ken's exhibits were just being unpacked, it was that informal greeting moment.
Wow I got Liz Robbins signature in the red Climber's Guide on the NW face of Half Dome page. Tom told Royal that he thought it would be worth twice as much as some other signature. But I will not be selling this. I will leave it for someone else.
Alan seemed ready to get back out climbing, but his recollections of the Salathe-Steck and John were fresh.
He says this is the original hat but boy is it clean.
Second ascent of LA with Harding
Nic Clinch is such and entertaining speaker I forgot to pick up the camera. On his first climb with Salathe, already a legend, leading on the Michael's Ledge side of the Lower Brother, he recollects when he paused at a crux that John is simul. climbing behind him and has removed the only protection between them. So he wedges a chimney belay and were John reaches him John tells him he should always set an anchor at a belay.
Ken's pictures, Doug's perspective and Steve's timeline framed the first hand memories.
I didn't know Salathe had rope soloed his first attempt on the LA. 1940's before the rope trick, what a vision. The iron was just a means to the real project.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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Lostinshinglesprings,
The idea of commitment is what I recognized in the Robbins title, Fail Falling, and did not really recognize that I did. Thanks for the the wake-up, as in "words and wisdom." I had to think, me, wise? It's RR we all look to for the right way to go. Might as well listen to him on the right way to go out.
Hey there say, Beth Heller, AAJ lady,
I still fail to find the AAJ article RR wrote on the NA Wall and his words about leading our lives with the courage found in our climbing.
A shout out for the AAJ table!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1965/331_Robbins_NorthAmericaWall_aaj1965.pdf
Is this the quote you have in mind?
"We climbed onward, searching,
always searching. Searching for handholds and footholds, for piton cracks
and the right piton. And searching ourselves for the necessary human
qualities to make this climb possible. Searching for adventure, searching
for ourselves, searching for situations which would call forth our total
resources. For some it is a search for courage. Perhaps if we can learn to
face the dangers of the mountains with equanimity, we can also learn to
face with a calm spirit the chilling spector of inevitable death."
(p.336)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:48am PT
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Good stuff, Jody.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:57am PT
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hey there say, jody.... great and wonderful share here...
wow, i am just too far away, :))
love hearing that the old timers were doing what old timers love to do:
SHARING old times, :)
thanks for the pics here, and to mouse, too...
very nice stuff!
also, jody:
i found a soak bible, a very tiny pocket sized one, once,
and:
i carefully took all the pages apart, to salvag it... and let it dry like an open accoridian, near a heat sorce... once it was dry,
i later would have pressed it, but it was perhaps then, better left as it was... would have pressed better damp, but paper sticks like glue
then, so did not do so... works great now, but is 'fatter' and crinkled, :))
hope your books will be okay...
:)
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The Librarian
climber
Golden, CO
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Oct 30, 2012 - 11:46am PT
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Hi, all! Clint Cummins, you beat me to it - and thanks for the shout out, Mouse from Merced!
It was awesome to meet all of you in Oakdale, although I wish you had told me your supertopo names too :)
It was an impressive event that Steve obviously put a lot of heart and effort into, and I'm psyched to follow up with all the ideas that got thrown around about how the AAC library can build stronger relationships. So, now that you know where to find me, let's keep talking?
OK - back to lurking!
Beth, the librarian
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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Kudos to Mr Grossman - a seminal effort.
I'm so gonna lean on my probation officer to let me go next year.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
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One thing I noticed was an almost complete lack of younger generation attendees.
Ditto. I wonder how many even know who these guys are.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Oct 30, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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This event seem to be the most comprehensive historical event steeped in Yosemite's climbing history of all time, so far. Though necessarily limited in its time scope, it nevertheless facilitated the most broad-ranging discussions, not just on-stage or in a facilitated circle but the non-structured time gave ample room for lots of one-on-one or small group conversations which were rich, both historically and personally. The theme, "Running Towards Commitment" with the focus on John Salathe and the Salathe Wall gave stimulus to the philosophical side of climbing. The hardware displays on Sunday gave those who stayed a chance to see and feel the variety of stuff that was used during the 30's-60's.
Kudos to Steve Grossman and all those who helped create this wonderful and successful event.
I think I took too many pictures. Yet the weekend offered so many opportunities to do so, and who knows when such a gathering of Yosemite's pioneer climbers will ever convene again?
Here are the photos from Friday night:
I liked the way they had such large posters of Yosemite climbing set up around the room as a backdrop for the event.
Nick Clinch told his very humorous account of climbing with John Salathe.
Allen Steck gave his first-hand and very memorable account of the FA of the North Face of Sentinel with John Salathe.
Gerry Gallwas told about his own piton-making and their use on the Nose second ascent and the FA on the NW face of Half Dome.
Doug Robinson joked that from Salathe's experiences, he learned to carry enough water wherever he went, even on to a stage!
After the presentations, there was plenty of time of talking one-on-one:
More to come...
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Oct 30, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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I liked that the schedule allowed leisurely morning conversations between participants. Here's the breakfast room at the Best Western:
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Oct 30, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
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Sunday morning, we were privileged to have Dick Long who'd founded LongWare hardware join us for breakfast and the rest of the day which was devoted to displaying hardware and discussing its changes as well as some of the personalities involved in its manufacture.
Several people commented that this collection is the most complete collection ever to be assembled anywhere.
It was great to be able to come in and browse and discuss the hardware displays as they were being set up before the presentations.
It was VERY COOL when Guido brought out a sample of his PatentWear T-Shirt with the original patent artwork for the Hexentric chocks. Similar T-shirts are available for all kinds of sports and other activities! Check them out for Christmas gifts!
An interesting discussion came up about whether Salathe actually used Model T axles to make his pitons. Tom Frost maintains that they were made from readily available bar-stock, based on the dimensions and uniformity of the pitons. Jerry Gallwas who made his own pitons isn't so sure. He plans to dp some metallurgical tests on some of his Salathe piton to see if there is a definitive answer there. Here's a close up photo of the pitons they were discussing.
All in all, it was a most wonderful weekend. So great to mingle with all of you who were there!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 30, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
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Thanks for all the photos! Wayne Merry and I tried to meet at YVR on Monday afternoon, but it didn't quite work out. Another time, I hope.
I bet Camilla (Audrey's daughter) livened up the proceedings considerably!
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Was there anyone under 40 years old there?
Looks like all gray people looking at their past .......
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
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Was there anyone under 40 years old there?
Their loss.
Thanks for all the great pics Boodawg. I am really sorry I missed Sunday but I had some family stuff that was more important. I wish I could have been at the food gatherings. That's my thing.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 30, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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^^^^Best BestWestern Photographer of the Week Award to the BooDawg^^^^
Always to be counted on.
Just want to shout out to Tony Bird, showing up in his migration, sitting behind LilaBiene, Camila, and DebiRuth. Neato to see ya, Big Bird! And yes, that Mathis fellow in the beer belly is the Rev.
Thanks, Ken.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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Werner, your presence at this event would have been awesome. I am not so sure how you actually feel about it, but it means a lot to others. You have a lot to contribute to this assembly of our ethic.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 30, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
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I so wish Ferretlegger (Michael) and I could have been there, unfortunately we're on a road trip. It looks like a wonderful time. The historical hardware....oh to drool over!
Susan
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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Oct 30, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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Was there anyone under 40 years old there?
Not many. They were out climbing in the 70 degree stellar weather this weekend. I am 38 and caught a couple of slideshows on Sat but opted to skip the the gear stuff on Sun. The slide shows that I saw were awesome and inspiring but maybe next year replace the gear day with another day of slideshows cuz i went climbing instead.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
moving thru
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Oct 30, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
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Thanks to everyone who posted their pictures and comments here and on FB. I was so sad to miss this great event, but seeing the photos and reading all the wonderful posts has been awesome.
Just thinking, seems like not many So Cal people attended....or maybe they did but just no pics or pub. Was anyone from the JTree crowd like Todd Gordon, Bridwell, Epperson, Mari, Lechlinski, KP, Al Dude or Cosgrove there? Then there's San Diego including Kevin Worrell and others.....
Cheers, Lynne
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 31, 2012 - 12:01am PT
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You guys should just hold these events in Vancouver or Squamish, in say October or November. Rains here all the time then, nothing else to do. Everybody would come!
It would probably be a considerable stretch to hold an event like this in the Valley, even if the facilities allowed.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Oct 31, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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I wish I could have been there for the gear day! The gear I'm out climbing on was developed by those people in that room. The gear they were showing was developed out of their engineering creativity and that is what gives me my experience today. I finally "got" the full impact of the brains and balls those guys have to walk into the landscape of the valley and say "Yeah, I think we can do this."
Werner ya shoulda been there.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Oct 31, 2012 - 09:53am PT
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Was there anyone under 40 years old there?
Looks like all gray people looking at their past .......
several also took the name of W.B. in vain!
there were a number of chicks at this thing who looked so sleek that you didn't care, and probably couldn't figure out, which side of 40 they were. if i drop names, i'll be in big trouble. dr. F knows how to handle these things: "one of the three hottest women there".
i had some discussion with yonder mouse on the various muses. since we're both writers attempting to become rich in our respective old ages, i suggested we start to pay closer attention to which ones we get along with. i list them here for reference:
calliope--epic poetry
clio--history
erato--love poetry
euterpe--song and elegaic poetry
melpomene--tragedy
polyhymnia--hymns
terpsichore--dance
thalia--comedy
urania--astronomy
personally, i think the mouse does well as a reporter, and i think he ought to show up at more things and give us reports about them. he may have a muse which hasn't been named.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 31, 2012 - 10:19am PT
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I wish I could have been to this thing but I'm out in the wilds where SCseagot and Ferretleger are and it's too far away. Speaking of which, I hope to cross paths with you guys while you're here, Susan. You ever have coffee at the love muffin? I get there fairly often.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 31, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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Nice pics!!!! Wish I could have made it....lot's of familiar faces and, best of all, I would not have been the oldest person at a climbing event.
A couple of slide shows of current climbing events might have drawn some younger climbers. Mixing with the old guard would have been more interesting for them then they would have imagined.
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Oct 31, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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Climbing royalty, very special to have that much history in one room, also very nice to see Bonnie Kamps.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 31, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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I agree Jopay, great to see Bonnie Kamps. She had her knee replaced last year (just before I had mine) and is now doing really well. I think there was a period where the new one was still painful and seemed to be a disappointment but today she is quite comfortable, she indicates.
Donini, they did try to have Yuji Hiruyama and other younger presenters but this did not work out/they couldn't come, even as helpful as it might have been. The program was really quite long---three days---and I guess in the final analysis it was geared to the truly hardcore history buffs amongst us. If the event is done again next year, it would be helpful to somehow have more time for actual meals so one did not have to play hookie on the program in order to eat. And Oakdale restaurants don't stay open as late as ones in big cities.
The American Alpine Club had its Western Regional Coordinator present, Jeff Deikis. He is a recent hire and a great one too. Very friendly, bright, mobilized younger guy originally from Ann Arbor, now living in Bishop. He was taking lots of photographs and mingling with everyone quite well. I think Dougie Robinson is going to go climb with him on the Eastside soon, perhaps. Beth Heller, the AAC librarian, was also very actively participating in the audience. She is out west working on Nick Clinch’s library I understand. It was important to meet her too; up to that point I had only been talking to her online.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Oct 31, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
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It was an amazing event, and there won't be another assemblage like that. Very well done, all who organized.
You're right, Werner. Lots of grey and lots of white.
Your turn will come my friend, much sooner than you think.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Hans gave a real good, "down to earth" presentation as one of the last speakers.
But before he left off he had to answer the question, "How long will it be, in your opinion, before the two hour mark is broken on the Nose run?"
He said plainly, "9.7 years." That would be on or about August 13, 2021.
"Hans, honey, remember the time...
you taught me how to do arm bars?"
Diamond Cs used to be a girl's best friend.
Hey, she's singing "Anything Goes!"
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Powder
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Was there anyone under 40 years old there?
Yes, me! ~_~y
...was there through the whole event, from beginning to the end.
It was a fantastic weekend!! I have to say it is one of my best experiences.
I was simply thrilled and excited (and super stoked!!!!!!!) to be in the same room with some of the coolest and most amazing climbers to date, listening to them making history and their great stories (some hilarious, and some emotional.) It's something I'll never forget.
Everyone,including the speakers and the audience, were all very kind and friendly.
Saturday was a full day; one program after another. I cannot believe that I had been sitting indoors for almost 8 hours!!!! ...don't think I would ever be able to go thru that many secessions of lecture at school all in one day, happily. XD
Especially thanks to Steve, for organizing this event. Before heading home, I talked to him and showed my appreciation. This is like a once in a life time opportunity - oh wait, there is next year! You bet I will be there! =)
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the buckaroo
Boulder climber
Oakdale
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[photoid=271535]hey jody...took my 11 year old boy, Ryan, to the fest. He got Al, Nick, Tom & Royal to sign the four sides of his climbing shoes (mine too!).
Needless to say, he was in awe of the silver backs (heads). Great community he is becoming a part of. He uses my term, The Granite Kissing Crowd, with pride & honor.
Took him to Desolation last summer for his lesson in fist jamming granite cracks. Same rocks his older sister challenged many moon ago.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Powder - those are some nice shots. What are you shooting?
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the buckaroo
Boulder climber
Oakdale
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...gonna need a new pair of scrambling shoes...these pups won't be kissing granite again.
Thank you Royal, Tom, Al & Nick...they will be cherished. Nick also signed bottom...his sly idea of fun & games.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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What a great thing! SG, I've always appreciated the great finds you share on Supertopo, this is way above that. Great job sir!
Given the intransigence of life and how fleeting time is, please, someone PLEASE, tell me that this was videotaped. In fact, imagine a film wherein the ageing storyteller at this conference is telling a tale, and old shots of the actual ascent (or the actual climb) are interspersed. It would sell, and be a lot better than watching the latest young wizz climb an overbolted line in Spain.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jody- It was a pleasure to meet you and your Teton-rich father!
Thanks for all the wonderful comments about the event everybody. It went just as I had hoped it would and more. The speakers stepped up to the plate and hit it into the parking lot on then first pitch! Dreamy...just plain dreamy!
I just got back and have the next one mostly fleshed out once I get commitments from the prospective speakers. So many thoughts and emotions driving back home once I cleared out of Tom's garage and headed for Yosemite and the eastside. It was a real pleasure to meet new friends and deepen my bonds with the many iconic climbers that made this inaugural event so special and gave me so much inspiration forty years ago when I began to shape my own climbing dreams. Mutual respect is the gift that keeps on giving back to our splendid community.
The mutual appreciation and pride that filled the hall will stay with me forever. An unmistakable sign that the North American Climbing History Archives (NACHA) is off to a resounding start!
This forum has been a great historical crossroads with so many quality people taking time to participate and share their lives and experiences with anyone that cares to join in and enjoy the fare. Many thanks to Chris for creating such a powerful platform for the historical work that I am taking on for the next several decades. What I am able to learn will continue to be shared on this forum. More about NACHA soon.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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There have been several comments above about the timing of this event not being optimal, and that perhaps contributing to the lower attendence of the "younger crowd". Although I myself am in the "older crowd", like a lot of others I had plans to go climb that beautiful Fall weekend.
Otherwise I would have attended this event, and I'd be much likelier to attend an event like this in the future in our rainy season (late November to February).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Once Tioga Pass shuts down the eastern Sierra community has a much longer drive to Oakdale. I thought through the timing of the event thoroughly before setting the date so that folks would still be around. If you would rather get out climbing, so be it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oakdale is known for world class rodeo riders...and wild buckeroos like Tom Frost whose dad was a bronco buster! If you have ever rode a wild layback or tussled with a overhanging wide crack, you know what it's like to hang on for time. Nobody dislikes coming off too soon more than Tom.
Tom originally lead the first Dog Leg crack on Sentinel's West Face with only a wooden piton like this one for pro when it counted. Paul Sibley liberated this specimen from the Titan and it was on display at the Festival.
Solid 5.9 and the most amazing free climbing lead that Yvon had ever witnessed back in 1960.
More Oakdale history in next year's event.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
moving thru
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Cheers Steve and Mimi,
I love you and so hated to miss your event. I had to get back to my "other" job in San Diego after they gave me a 5 month hiatus to work in Tioga.
Peace and Joy, lynne
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Two of those were stuck in the flared chimney below the lieback ear on the original Rixon's rte. I pulled them out of there and thoroughly rotten as they were, I threw them to the ground. This was about 1964 I think. Even then they were outmoded as we had bongs.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Tom went into the Dolt's shop and made the first modern large angles and bongs in preparation for the first continuous ascent of the Nose later that year inspired not doubt by having had to run it out off of a doorstop! LOL
Always business minded, Yvon had them in production shortly thereafter.
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