Subject: Low-Load Climbing-Gym Fall Results In Rope Rupture

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Messages 161 - 169 of total 169 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Jun 13, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
i din't say i wanted it to happen-
i said i am not concerned about it happening
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Jun 13, 2006 - 02:17pm PT
to put it in terms of your career, you're advocating that somebody attack the first major symptom they see, rather than check every possible scenario before moving on. this is how you end up w/ corpses w/ pretty bandages on the chest and arm.(patient bleed out through the femoral you didn't see while you were "attacking the big issues")

i'd assume the gym owners, hold manufactures, carabiner makers, as well as the rope manufacturer are happy that the guys at the lab aren't jumping to conclusions on this one.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Jun 13, 2006 - 05:26pm PT
so where in the line up is family notification, or CDC if it's something communicable?

that's basically your place on the totem pole. i know you want answers quick, but i'd much rather they fix the issue first with whichever manufacturer is to blame. if that means you're not notified "in a timely manner" i'm fine with that.

let's say it's not the rope to blame. do you think they'd even be legally allowed to make a statement?

edit: removed dumb ad hominem crap, plenty of that on the board arleady
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Jun 13, 2006 - 06:02pm PT
Maybe this is a stupid question, but were the belay devices of the belayer and the climber looked at? I don't know what they were using but ATCs can develop some pretty sharp edges. Sorry if this was covered before I haven't had time to go back and read all the posts and was wondering.
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Jun 13, 2006 - 06:05pm PT
rather than babble and speculate all about their testing procees (that you don't even pretend to be familiar with, am i right?) why don't you burn some of that energy and call them up on the damn phone? looks from here like you would rather scream "fire" than ask what the funny smell is.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jun 13, 2006 - 06:13pm PT
Riley, LOL, CHILL!!!!

This rope thing is NOTHING like emergency medical. You know
that.

Look, IF the rope that broke had been in new, or even just normal use but apparently good condition, the responses from the companies involved would have been much different.

BUT, the rope was NOT in anything like good condition!!! People who have seen it, and posted RIGHT HERE about seeing it, said they would not feel good about using that rope.

First and formost, I want to know HOW the rope got the way it is now. Hell we all do. But that will take time.

The problem is further complicated by the lack of an obvious cutting mechanism. That must also be identified.



In the meanwhile, climb on ropes in good condition, that meet manufatureres specs for allowable age, and have taken a good bit fewer than the limit on falls.

Is that so much to ask, until we can get ALL the answers?

heidi

Ice climber
cham / UK
Jun 13, 2006 - 07:13pm PT
...I have to admit, it seems weird and scary, and I would like to believe that the rope was crappy in some way other than by manufacture. Otherwise, it's going to be hard/impossible to go for that move that I might take a whipper on, 15 pitches up. I had a beal rope with loads of sudden soft spots and a loose sheath after only a couple reasonable sport falls (over no edges) and they were really helpful and professional. The beal dude (whoever the ropes are named after...mr. Beal? no really!), wrote me a letter and my rope was apparently ok. (Don't use it anymore though, creeps me out.) I'm sure they will let us all know asap, and if not, I will call that Mr Beal guy here in France, and send him a link to this thread, so he knows we're all waiting! : )
labrat

Trad climber
Nevada
Jun 14, 2006 - 02:26am PT
dufas wrote "It is hard to believe that rope manufacturers don't have some type of process/product integrity certifications, something like ISO 9002? Certification doesn't exclude the lone maniac doing something homicidal, but those processes should be airtight (at least I hope so!)"

dufas. Try going to Beal's website. http://bealplanet.com Wow! Look it's amasing! They have a ISO-9001 logo / cert. What does ISO-9001 mean? Try going to this website. http://praxiom.com/

I am not saying that this is a perfect QA system. I do not know for a fact who was making the ropes that BD was selling three years ago (the rope that failed is supposed to be three years old). I am climbing on a Beal rope that I bought two years ago from BD. I am hoping for a comprehensive response from BD or the rope maker. Still waiting.
labrat

Trad climber
Nevada
Jun 15, 2006 - 12:17am PT
Update link to message posted by Largo. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=208532&f=0&b=0
Messages 161 - 169 of total 169 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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