Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 10:43am PT
|
Jeremy, thought about aiding ice climbs? Seems more solid. lol
|
|
Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:46am PT
|
My aid climbing boots with front points,(Patent Pending) and climbing Ninja claws should work PERFECT on that Chossy MUD!
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:01am PT
|
I want to know when the book on aid climbing by Jeremy's mom is coming out.
|
|
nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:08am PT
|
Jeremy: I can only summon a word cloud at the moment... mentally deficient awesome scary insanity ridiculous hilarious
Edit: And after being with your mom, I learned where you get your favorite expression. WOO HOO!!!!!!!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:08am PT
|
Contrary to her modest rating of 5.9+, I had to resort to some aid on jeremys mom.
Yes the hammer came out, so she should be ready for some nutting by the next team.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 11:38am PT
|
Contrary to her modest rating of 5.9+
Is that in dollars?
|
|
Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:40am PT
|
Vitaliy;
Shouldn't you be WORKING, changing Bedpans or something?
|
|
Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:43am PT
|
Seems like everyone here is in love with Jeremy's Mom.
She must be BEAUTIFUL.
|
|
Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:51am PT
|
Actually, ice screws would probably be pretty good pro on that route.
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
|
Jeremy probably knows a whole lot about aid climbing, unfortunately, a lot of what he knows I'd be scared to know!
|
|
briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
|
Yes the hammer came out, so she should be ready for some nutting by the next team.
Bahahaha
Man these Jeremy's mom jokes are good, but too easy.......kind of like Jeremy's mom!!!!!
WOO HOO!!!
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
|
Let's get off Jeremy's mom, cause she can't handle those other five men on her now!!!
jk. looking at all that crazy stuff he does I would not be surprised at all if he showed up with a machine gun at the next supertopo sushi fest gathering lol
|
|
Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
|
What about "fraid" climbing. I head a big route in the Black Canyon went that way and also the triple cracks on The Shield.
|
|
westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
|
Big V,
Thanks for this topic. Great reading.
Recently I started to learn how to aid climb. I found a lot of good stuff on the internet.
I went back and read All of the stuff PTPP posted on RC.com and elsewhere. This is literally a million words to read.
I did the same for other Aid climbing studs, like Kate=Hold2please, and many many others.
I also read three or four Aid climbing books.
I also enjoyed all of Mark Hudon's TR's. These probably more than anything else got me going in the right direction as far as climbing a big wall. I suggest watching all of his Video posts and reading all of his How to big Wall articles.
bigwalls.com I read every page of every topic.
I watched Chris Mac's How to Aid climb videos over and over.
In between all this research I went out and tried all the stuff I was reading about. I hook bouldered in my garage. I aided the bolt ladders at Stoney and Rocky Peak. I learned how to aid solo on same. Then I took those skills to the Quarry in Riverside. I learned to test and trust most of the gear I placed. I practiced my anchor building skills. I made a 2x1 hauling ratchet and learned how to use it. I bought a haul bag and learned how to rig it, pack it with water, hook it to a swivel with another bag and manage it and it's contents all the way up and down a wall. I bought a ledge and practiced deploying and breaking it down while hanging around in my garage. I learned to solo with a tag bag and how to secure it with a slippery knot. These skills and many many more need to be practiced over and over to be mastered. I probably will never get that far but it is sure fun(sp?) trying.
I slowly bought a bunch of aid gear. I am still buying stuff with no end in sight.
Anyway the whole point of my post is, uh, there is a lot of info out there. You just have to make the time to read it and then learn how to use it.
And there is no such thing as a "stupid question" unless it's the one not asked.
Focus on anything and you will learn rapidly.
Sorry for the long post.
Looking forward to reading about your adventures on the big stone this coming season!
Wes
|
|
mackenzie74
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
|
Some of the stuff in this thread is helpful. Minerals posted real advanced material. Thanks.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
|
Where can I learn about hand placing sawed-off angles? Where do I even get them?
I dream about doing the shield, and I heard the are very helpful there.
|
|
briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
|
|
I borrowed sawed angles from an "older" wall climber but to the best of my knowledge buy some angles and saw them to the desired size.
|
|
thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
|
|
There is no such thing as a stupid question....
Just....
Oh never mind...
Edit:
Re: sawed offs
They generally retail for twice as much as regular angles which seems silly at first because they're half the size but the steel they make them with is 400% stronger and 4 times more expensive.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
|
where do they sell them, and where do i find out what size i need for the shield? LOL never seen that beast...
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!