Stupid Questions about Aid Climbing

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Messages 181 - 196 of total 196 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
Vitaliy;
Shouldn't you be WORKING, changing Bedpans or something?
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
Seems like everyone here is in love with Jeremy's Mom.
She must be BEAUTIFUL.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
Actually, ice screws would probably be pretty good pro on that route.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
Jeremy probably knows a whole lot about aid climbing, unfortunately, a lot of what he knows I'd be scared to know!
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:50pm PT

Yes the hammer came out, so she should be ready for some nutting by the next team.

Bahahaha

Man these Jeremy's mom jokes are good, but too easy.......kind of like Jeremy's mom!!!!!

WOO HOO!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
Let's get off Jeremy's mom, cause she can't handle those other five men on her now!!!

jk. looking at all that crazy stuff he does I would not be surprised at all if he showed up with a machine gun at the next supertopo sushi fest gathering lol
Morgan

Trad climber
East Coast
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
What about "fraid" climbing. I head a big route in the Black Canyon went that way and also the triple cracks on The Shield.
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
Dec 1, 2012 - 01:17am PT
Big V,

Thanks for this topic. Great reading.

Recently I started to learn how to aid climb. I found a lot of good stuff on the internet.

I went back and read All of the stuff PTPP posted on RC.com and elsewhere. This is literally a million words to read.

I did the same for other Aid climbing studs, like Kate=Hold2please, and many many others.

I also read three or four Aid climbing books.

I also enjoyed all of Mark Hudon's TR's. These probably more than anything else got me going in the right direction as far as climbing a big wall. I suggest watching all of his Video posts and reading all of his How to big Wall articles.

bigwalls.com I read every page of every topic.

I watched Chris Mac's How to Aid climb videos over and over.

In between all this research I went out and tried all the stuff I was reading about. I hook bouldered in my garage. I aided the bolt ladders at Stoney and Rocky Peak. I learned how to aid solo on same. Then I took those skills to the Quarry in Riverside. I learned to test and trust most of the gear I placed. I practiced my anchor building skills. I made a 2x1 hauling ratchet and learned how to use it. I bought a haul bag and learned how to rig it, pack it with water, hook it to a swivel with another bag and manage it and it's contents all the way up and down a wall. I bought a ledge and practiced deploying and breaking it down while hanging around in my garage. I learned to solo with a tag bag and how to secure it with a slippery knot. These skills and many many more need to be practiced over and over to be mastered. I probably will never get that far but it is sure fun(sp?) trying.

I slowly bought a bunch of aid gear. I am still buying stuff with no end in sight.

Anyway the whole point of my post is, uh, there is a lot of info out there. You just have to make the time to read it and then learn how to use it.

And there is no such thing as a "stupid question" unless it's the one not asked.

Focus on anything and you will learn rapidly.

Sorry for the long post.

Looking forward to reading about your adventures on the big stone this coming season!

Wes
mackenzie74

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:26am PT
Some of the stuff in this thread is helpful. Minerals posted real advanced material. Thanks.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
Where can I learn about hand placing sawed-off angles? Where do I even get them?
I dream about doing the shield, and I heard the are very helpful there.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Mar 6, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
I borrowed sawed angles from an "older" wall climber but to the best of my knowledge buy some angles and saw them to the desired size.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Mar 6, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
There is no such thing as a stupid question....














Just....














Oh never mind...

Edit:
Re: sawed offs

They generally retail for twice as much as regular angles which seems silly at first because they're half the size but the steel they make them with is 400% stronger and 4 times more expensive.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
where do they sell them, and where do i find out what size i need for the shield? LOL never seen that beast...
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Mar 6, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
^ V, see this:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/549950/sawed-off-angles
Jacemullen

Trad climber
Oceanside
Mar 6, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
How do you rack copperheads and rivet hangers? A bunch on a biner? Each biner with a set?

Also, are there any other places to place copperheads other than super flared placement where a nut won't stick? It seems like there has to be a "bottom" to moosh the copperhead against so no deep seams, right?

Going out to practice tomorrow on some choss in the rain.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
kunlun, thanks! maybe I should have googled it at least before asking. Well, that's why I called the thread 'stupid questions' LOL


I rack my rivet hangers with my offset brassies...micro biner would be a good option too probably. Sorry I am no big help.
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