Stupid Questions about Aid Climbing

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Messages 121 - 140 of total 202 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Oct 29, 2012 - 07:18pm PT
“The T Moses hangers work nicely…”

Ahh, I had forgotten that Theron makes a 3/8” heyhole hanger. Duh. Thanks for the reminder. I was thinking RP keyhole hangers.
The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Oct 29, 2012 - 07:30pm PT
Shortest Straw has tons (100s?) of those machine head rivets on it.

Precisely.

Old Rick Lovelace's work on the Straw was what turned me onto em. After I did the Straw in Sept of '97 I decided they were the shet. I remember talking to Duece about em back in '90 at his shop in Flagstaff and he was stoked on em back then. File the first three or four threads down to get em started into the hole and then they go in like butter. I have designated several #5 /BD Stoppers and a handful of older Met Yellow Curve nuts for hangers. Pull the stopper down and wrap the cable over the head then cinch up the nut snug and whalla. They will rotate and stay put.

Again, the sheer strength on those babies is well over 4Klbs so they will indeed take a good hit on em before bending let alone sheering.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 29, 2012 - 07:30pm PT
Therons keyhole hangers only work up to 5/16ths? or maybe I missed something?

I used them recently and thought they were WAY better than any other type I have used.




Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
CRICKETS!!!!!
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Oct 29, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
T Moses hangars are the difference between looking ahead without worry and looking down with worry for me.

 - -

Crickets over at the Bigwall board.

Dude, seriously. I check at least twice a day. Just don't have anything to post in my life right now so... chirp chirp chirp.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
Shhh, j-tree.....I'm trying to inspire(guilt?) some of the folk to actually post something.
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Oct 29, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
Chief, you must be referring to 5/16” machine-heads, which have been the standard size for grade 5 machine-head rivets for years. I’ve placed tons of the 5/16” size and they work great, as I mentioned earlier. The 3/8” machine-heads is what I was questioning.

But again, the problem with machine-heads is that they are difficult to cleanly remove in order to reuse the original hole for replacement. They’re not stainless and they’re not going to last forever. Better to be able to reuse the original hole than continue to drill new holes (i.e. use 1/4” button-heads…)

Using wired nuts for rivet hangers limits your reach because they are a lot longer than a standard cable rivet hanger or a keyhole hanger. Keyhole hangers work the best in this sense, and they are stronger and more durable than wires/cable.

Mucci…
http://mosesclimbing.com/rivet-hangers/

I prefer the RP keyhole hanger design because the biner is oriented parallel to the rock, rather than perpendicular to the rock. This can be preferable when using a keyhole hanger at a belay when you want to clip multiple biners to the main keyhole biner.

PFH also makes/made a keyhole hanger that orients the biner perpendicular to the rock. Another potential problem with this type of design is that to prevent leverage on the rivet, the right shape/size biner must be used. I have some PFH keyhole hangers but haven’t used them much although Mike and Gabe were complaining about the design a while back after a fall on Aurora where a rivet pulled. With the RP design, leverage on the rivet is minimized by keeping the biner parallel and flush with the rock.


RP keyhole hanger on the left, PFH keyhole hanger on the right:




CRICKETS!!!!!

: )

Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
Godammit, Mineral Boy.....;-)
I'm workin' up a drunken rant....on a Monday, that could take a while.







Please Stand By.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 29, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
Brief question about aid: What's it called if Mark Hudon sends a message from the middle of an El Cap route?
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 29, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
I never place that stuff...sandstone and all ..but for granite...seems way mo betta with a hanger.

But I'm easily scared.

Nice pics Bryan.

YMMV
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 29, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
used all of those hangers minerals, and tend to go with a small modified D when clipping in for the reasons you mentioned above.

I have SS rivets and prefer them in certain placements where the stone is ultra hard.

Of course how you prep your rivet on the wheel is going to determine how it's placed.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 29, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
Ultra hard?


photo not found
Missing photo ID#270111


I MISS EL CAP!
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 29, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
Brief question about aid: What's it called if Mark Hudon sends a message from the middle of an El Cap route?

It's called "Sending" a text message Mouse. Sending is something Mark familiar with..haha!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
All these "Wall Climbers" inhabiting the Spew Board?



HA!
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Oct 29, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
“Godammit, Mineral Boy.....;-)”

Do they allow free climbers to spew over there…? I spend way too much time here as it is.

Let’s hear your drunken rant! Only had two Green Labels left so had to throw some Cobras from my Tuolumne-late-season-stash into the freezer to try to keep up!

Mucci, have the SS machine-heads been working ok for you?

Hey Skully, tell ‘em about those stainless rivets on Tribal… You know the ones… : )


“Of course how you prep your rivet on the wheel is going to determine how it's placed.”

Definitely. Depends on the rock too. Sometime you don’t even need to clean them up on a grinder. The machine-heads with the un-threaded section next to the hex head don’t come in a short length so you have to cut them to the preferred length with bolt cutters. In some cases, like on the S. Face of HD, they went in great without any grinding after cutting them down to length.


Jeremy, have you modified Spectres, etc. on a grinder? I made a few different versions of ‘em that worked well in that mud. Also modified some of the Pika ice pitons too by putting a knifeblade taper on ‘em with a grinder. What were those things called…? Arkee? I forget, and mine are in storage. Can’t find any with a Google image search. Anyways, killer little modified piece. But not to worry, the #3 Tomahawks are on the way and you will be psyched!

Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
Hey Skully, tell ‘em about those stainless rivets on Tribal… You know the ones… : )

You mean the ones I pulled out accidentally with my fingers, & quickly put back? Yeesh. They Still held body weight. I checked. Once, anyway.

I may not get drunk enough to rant, this night....It's comin', though.
The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Oct 29, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
Chief, you must be referring to 5/16” machine-heads, which have been the standard size for grade 5 machine-head rivets for years. I’ve placed tons of the 5/16” size and they work great, as I mentioned earlier. The 3/8” machine-heads is what I was questioning.

I use the 3/8" X 1" if I know I will be running out the section above me with narly dime size heading for at least 20-30' or more.

The standard 5/16" X 3/4" I utilize in between 3-5 bathook moves.

Does it make a difference? Well, all I know is they will hold a 15-20 footer.

As far as SS also making a difference, well, in the wallet maybe.

Hope that clarifies things...



Jeremy: Beaking like that was the norm in the Towers and on some of the narly River Road classics. "Artist Tears", some stuff in Arches/Kane Creek and Long Canyon require'd it BITD as you well know. Love the old pound in the series of 10 to 15 Beak days of the Utah Desert
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Oct 29, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
Vitaly - that looks like a terrifying adventure - just my game!

That walk though......

Still though - mixed ice and aid and back country..Yayaya

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 29, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
E-nail.

The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Oct 29, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
BTW:

Still got over 10 of them old RP hangers. I personally say the old stopper cinched over and tight on the screw gig is the best way to go.
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