Stupid Questions about Aid Climbing

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Messages 121 - 140 of total 171 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Oct 30, 2012 - 06:45am PT
This is a great thread!
The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Oct 30, 2012 - 09:29am PT
I personally say the old stopper cinched over and tight on the screw gig is the best way to go.

Why?

When I am on A4 plus shettin my pants hooking and riveting pitch, the last thing I want is to be carrying tons of shet.

Why carry hangers when you can carry small stoppers already racked and for me easier to use on rivets?

Personal preference I guess.


Also, I have used both Hex head and Button head. Depends on which container I grab when heading out.


PS: I love the holding your truck comment... that's what I am saying.
whitemeat

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:46am PT
how does the follower clean a "tension traverse" For example pitch 3 of the Nose. But not when its a pendulum and the leader just runs it out till the rope is straight up and down, because then it would not be a problem for example Pitch 6south central on the column.


Please try to include pictures !!!!!!
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
http://vimeo.com/4388859 lower out video
whitemeat

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Oct 30, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
wow thats a very good video grippa, thanks alot !!!!!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
Any thoughts about using a 'Silent Partner' for soloing walls? A lot of people use grigris. What are advantages?

What set up do majority of people who solo walls use?
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Nov 28, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
I have a silent partner that I have used doing "practice" aiding but haven't used it on a wall yet. It scares the sh#t out of me everytime, but so far it's always caught me.


Different question....

What's the story behind the OLD rivet ladder on the south side of the Columbia boulder in camp 4. It would be fun practice if the things weren't old as sh#t and the first one wasn't hammered flat....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
hmmm small KB abut an inch in,, "looks good"!!!
hmmm small KB abut an inch in,, "looks good"!!!
Credit: Ron Anderson

in this shot, ive done an offwidth to reaching blind around the corner to tap a knife balde that bottoms out about an inch in. I tie it off and contemplate the UGLY landing in the talus 15 or more feet below if it pops.



surprised to still be clinging to the stone after the swing around ont...
surprised to still be clinging to the stone after the swing around onto the route form the offwidth..

rack: rurps -many, many small knife blades with many tie off loops, a hook and 1 --1/2 inch angle with tie off loop. cant bring enough TIE OFF loops
Credit: Ron Anderson

it held,, as did the rest under MY body weight - after the third attempt to nail this seam on an overhung pinnacle- it was H-E-I-N-O-U-S...Hook move towards the top and a 1/2" angle tied off in the middle other wise all rurps and tied off bottoming small blades. one goes,, they all woulda..



my contribution to one pitch aid nightmares. "Hairline" fa 78 A4-X.. Eagle lake Cliffs on "off the wall" pinnacle- west face.

inspired by none other than the REAL Batso...



Credit: Ron Anderson


during the first attempts, i lowered off the angle after specific directions to those who tagged along to watch the carnage and belay.. " Once you start lowering me do it steadily with out any stopping or stuttering- THATS IMPERATIVE!" Never have repeated that - doubt ill ever wanna...


None of my belay slaves could weight the first placements without popping them. Ya had to be light,, and DELICATE.. I didnt even breath to hard as to shake them loose. On high ON Elcap, it would be a brilliant crux pitch to some climb, however, at just under 80 feet from the large jagged talus there,, its just feckin stupid.. Maybe it was that "lumbo-gold" ..?


THANK YOU YVONNE CHOUINARD for that most stellar gear!!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
if you have to drill you better do a lot of hooking and maybe do a few moves on drilled holes with a bat hook before you put in a rivet? People do not do bolt ladders any longer?

Drilled holes on a ladder are BS, nobody on a FA is in that much of a hurry.

If your gonna drill a ladder, you make every attempt to hook naturally btw rivets or bolts, if that does not work out, it's all steel all the way.

Manufacturing difficulty on blank stone is chump.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
Jeremy,, Ill bet hairline hasnt been repeated- you could bag the coveted "second" while i entertained yur MOM at the base...;-)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
thank ya,, thank ya vury much!;-)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
nobody on a FA is in that much of a hurry.

But our Vitya is headed to the great ranges where time is money, and life.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
What's the story behind the OLD rivet ladder on the south side of the Columbia boulder in camp 4.

As it must now be more than 50 years old, it might be considered a historical/archaeological relic, and so not to be touched.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
i believe thats where Royal instructed some Aid years back no?
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
Is that the belay?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
Would you prefer it melted in your mouth?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
As fare as Silent Partner vs. Gri-gri for soloing goes, well, one was designed and made for soloing, the maker of the other emphatically states that you should not use it for soloing.

I've soloed two El Cap routes with a Gri-gri and one with a Silent Partner. The Silent Partner, is a far better and far safer tool to self belay with than a Gri-gri.

As a tool, the SP is totally single purpose, the Gri-gri is a really good multifaceted tool that I wouldn't go up on a wall without (in fact, ahem, I've taken a spare, so far, every time I've been up El Cap since I dropped my one and only off of Iron Hawk this spring).
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
The Silent Partner is versatile too, in the sense you can claim you have a silent partner. Ah yes, I picked up a podner just this year.

(you know, in business)

Sorry dude, slot's been taken, already have all the help I need.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
Hey! Don't you be slanderin' Royal about his drilling skills. I'm 6' 2" and I've done his proud ladders on the Prow and Tis-sa-ack. I had to step it up and stretch. He bragged about the Tis-sa-ack effort in the famous article.






So.... Glen Denny was 6' 10"?....or, was it Wayne Merry?
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 28, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
OK. sorry. I'm not done yet!

I climbed Lurking Fear with my wife Margy and she got the bolt ladder on the 2nd/3rd pitch? She is 5' 0". We set her up with a 2' cheater stick and she made that work. So....what's the problem?



Yes I'm late to the thread.
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