Piolet d’Or Comes to Berkeley – Steve Swenson Show Dec 2

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DRiggs

climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 22, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
Not sure he’ll bring the golden ice axe with him, but Piolet d’Or winner STEVE SWENSON will present a multimedia show entitled “Climbs in the Karakoram including film presentation of “The Old Breed – The First Ascent of Saser Kangri II" at 7:30 PM on Sunday, December 2 at Spenger's Fish Grotto in Berkeley. The show is part of the American Alpine Club's Sierra Nevada Section Holiday Dinner. Everyone is welcome to attend, and you can join us for the dinner and show or just the show. Dinner requires an RSVP and prepayment by November 25. For the show only option, you can pay at the door. For those attending the dinner, cocktail hour will start at 5 PM followed by a buffet dinner. Steve's presentation will begin at 7:30, and for those coming just for the show, doors will open at 7:15. Steve's talk will be followed by a raffle with some cool prizes.

Steve Swenson is the immediate past president of the AAC and has been climbing for 44 years. Among his long list of hard climbs of big mountains, Steve has made ascents of the North Ridges of both K2 and Mt. Everest without supplemental oxygen, the latter solo. His show will focus on his 30 plus years of climbing in the Karakoram, where, in addition to K2, he has also climbed, the Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat, and Latok 2. In 2011, along with Mark Richey and Freddie Wilkinson, Steve made the first ascent of Saser Kangri II in the Eastern Karakoram. At 7518 meters, SK II was the second-highest unclimbed mountain in the world at the time. Their alpine style ascent was awarded a 2012 Piolet D’Or. The film documenting the climb - “The Old Breed,” which Steve will show, is a finalist at this year’s Banff Mountain Film Festival.

Here's Saser Kangri II

Here's Steve

This will be a fun evening for the climbing community. Join us and bring your friends!

Show only:
$10 at the door
Cash bar available. Raffle tickets may be purchased separately.

Full package admission:
$35 for all attendees under 29 years old, whether or not AAC members
$45 for AAC members 29 or older
$50 for non-members 29 or older
Price includes one beer/wine, buffet dinner, and one raffle ticket
RSVP for the dinner by email to zzkarenzz@yahoo.com

Hope to see you there!




Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 22, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
Awesome! Great event! Will do my best to attend!
DRiggs

climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
Bump for what will be a fun evening. Here's the poster.


Hope to see you there!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 3, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
This will be a GREAT show! Dave, tell the crowd it's about politics and religion in the Karakorum and your thread will stay on the front page.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Nov 3, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
Drat! This looks like a great show. I'm bummed I'll be out of town.
DRiggs

climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
Thanks Jim! If you haven't headed south by then, come on out and join us.

OK y'all. Like Donini said, this show is about politics and religion in the Karakoram. You'll love it. And if that won't get you there, I've asked Mr. Swenson to bring his list of 14ers, err, I mean 8000ers, so we can verify his claims.

Cheers!
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Nov 25, 2012 - 03:01am PT
this is awesome! The climbers who show up at this dinner are awesome too.
bumping it up
mudbone

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Nov 26, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
If you can't make the dinner, come for the show and raffle for $10. Doors open for this portion of the evening at 7:15P for a 7:30P show.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 26, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
Maybe he can come to Vancouver some time and do a talk.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 26, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
Don't believe a thing he says - it's all lies.









Not that that is a bad thing.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Nov 26, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
i can't go to this. but everyone who can, should.

zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Nov 26, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
I don't think I can make it.


Good to hear Spenger's is still in business.

Also good to see that zzkarenzz has caught on to the craze.

z vil zveep the nation.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 26, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
Steve's accomplishments go far beyond the Piolet d'Or, which, as you know, is awarded for the best alpine climb in the WORLD for the past year.
Steve is an expert on Pakistan....the mountains, people and culture and is researching a book on the area.
If you want a broad perspective on the Himalayas of India and Pakistan don't miss this event.
DRiggs

climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 12:53am PT
Bump. Dinner is full, but come on out for Steve's show.

Here's a nice quote that captures the Steve I have come to know. It's from Mark Kroese in "Fifty Favorite Climbs," in which Steve's selected favorite is the North Face of Mt. Alberta. Steve and Kit Lewis made the second ascent in 1981. The first ascent was made by George Lowe (who else?) and Jock Glidden in 1972. George was the featured speaker at last year's Sierra Nevada Section dinner. Anyway, here's the quote on Steve:

"If Steve Swenson isn't driving one of his sons to soccer practice, managing a complex civil engineering project, or running 6-minute miles through the streets of Seattle, he's probably climbing. And climbing hard... Underneath his quiet, modest exterior, Swenson is intensely driven. He maintains a rigorous training schedule, which he squeezes in between the demands of his full-time job and his family... [T]he late Alex Lowe once said, 'I've always admired Steve for his ability to do it all and do it well.'"

Here's Steve doing well with some ice climbing:


Hope you'll join us Sunday evening. Cheers!
DRiggs

climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2012 - 12:09am PT
Bump for a fun evening. Come join us with your friends for Steve's show. Doors open at 7:15. $10. Cash bar and tickets available for the post show raffle (good stuff this year). Hope to see you there! Cheers.
rurprider

Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
Dec 2, 2012 - 02:45am PT
Mark Richey just did his Saser Kangri presentation in Los Angeles, Dec. 1. Swenson didn't look good throughout. He suffered from what Mark described as a sinus infection much of the trip.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Dec 2, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
Bump for tonight
10b4me

Boulder climber
u.s. 395
Dec 2, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
Mark Richey just did his Saser Kangri presentation in Los Angeles, Dec. 1. Swenson didn't look good throughout. He suffered from what Mark described as a sinus infection much of the trip.

saw the show last night. very good. you folks up north well enjoy it.
mackenzie74

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 2, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
Wish I was able to make it. Sounds awesome!
DRiggs

climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
Thanks to everyone who attended last night. Great evening for the climbing community seeing old friends, making new ones and just having a good time.

Thanks also to Steve Swenson for a fantastic show. He generously shared from what has been quite a climbing life. And it ain't over. He's soon off to Antarctica and then Patagonia. For whatever it's worth, my favorite vignette was the problematic descent of the Schell route off the Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat with no gear. Facing many mandatory rappels, he and Doug Chabot found a piece of tat that yielded 70 feet of old fixed line chopped from the ice. They started rapping - all 35 feet at a time - and Steve yells "Off rappel!... Oh, yea. You're just right there."

The film "The Old Breed" was terrific. Check it out here:

http://www.theoldbreedmovie.com/

Thanks again Steve!

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