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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 27, 2014 - 11:18am PT
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Outstanding catalog!
Thanks for posting it Maestro Pennequin.
So many carabiners, so little time...What a brilliant designer!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 27, 2014 - 11:42am PT
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And now, a brainteaser designed and made by THE genuine Maestro, Pierre Allain!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 27, 2014 - 11:48am PT
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Ho no... I would not like to destroy such a treasure...
And, if I remember well, Pierre Allain did not need any protection in wide cracks...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 27, 2014 - 11:57am PT
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I wonder what the reasoning was for the flanges of the 'plaquette speleo' in the last pic of Nutstory's catalog. (The type is too fuzzy to read)
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 27, 2014 - 11:59am PT
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audacity in conception, prudence in execution. This wonderful sentence IS Pierre Allain.
Reilly, if you click on the image, I believe that you can read the text.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 27, 2014 - 01:44pm PT
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I suspect that the sample on the left is similar to the one pictured on the Holubar catalog 1954/1955 posted by Steve Grossman on Supertopo.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 27, 2014 - 01:53pm PT
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Nutstory, d'accord, but it makes no sense: "the rope runs through the carabiner parallel to the wall." Tres drôle, n'est ce pas?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 28, 2014 - 04:51am PT
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If the rope runs, through the carabiner, parallel to the wall, there is no friction of the rope on the wall, and no "damage" onto the rope.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 11:09am PT
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I understand that but it seems to me that the rope runs parallel to the wall
with any hanger. With the PA hanger the mousqueton is 90 degrees to the wall
so the rope is going to be twisted through the mousqueton. And those two
flanges are at best superfluous but possibly dangerous. Mere nit-picking
but that's what we do, eh? :-)
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2014 - 11:17am PT
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Good to see the new posts.
Keep it up folks, there's more out there!
Steve
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 28, 2014 - 11:21am PT
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Reilly, I do not have any knowledge in caving. Anyway, I must confess that, when I talk about The Maestro, I feel that I loose all impartiality…
;-)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 11:43am PT
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Nutstory, d'accord, bien sur! I in no way mean to impugn the good name,
no, great name of the inimitable Pierre Allain!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 28, 2014 - 12:18pm PT
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While visiting Pierre Allain's workshop, in Uriage (near Grenoble), in September 1992.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 29, 2014 - 11:52am PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 29, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
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Aha! so the flanges go down!. Now that makes sense, sort of. :-)
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 29, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
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I took this photo for you Reilly...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mesdames et Messieurs, les PA! (changement pluriel)
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Thanks Steve for taking the trouble donning those PAs and doing photos.
I used to love those shoes. And for too long as the Seventies got going. It handicapped me for awhile. Back then they were good edging shoes and excellent off width shoes. Stiff and hard, great for heel and toe, no matter how oblique. And EBs were such a joke in these regards, I didn't adopt or shall we say, cross over to EBs until maybe 1973 or 1974. And even then I hated losing the terrific edging power of a size 8 with my foot at size 11 actually.
We have come so far.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2014 - 11:30pm PT
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You're right Peter, we've come a long way, compared with modern shoes they look like something Ronald McDonald would wear!
(The socks do help in that regard!)
SB
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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The sox complete the look!
I miss my PA's (red) but would look at them more than climb in them, these days. I used to love them. Edging in the South Dakota, needles.
Now if I could find a pair of 7.5 Kronhoffers I Would climb and scramble in them!
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