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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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A article from Mountain 62, 1978.
Usual disclaimers, click on the image for a larger view.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Oct 18, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
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Nice article about a great pioneer boulderer and alpinist.
I bought my first pair of PAs about 1959, and they were a delight. Thereafter, the older Kronhoffers and Zillertals seemed like historical artifacts.
;>)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 18, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
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Gosh, John--I didn't buy my PA's until 1972, but I sure climbed
some classic routes in them!!!
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Borut
climber
french
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Oct 19, 2012 - 01:37am PT
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My parents bought me a pair of PAs back in the mid 1960s, before I reached my teens. We were living in Fontainebleau (France) at the time.
My PAs where the red ones, the second generation PAs (the first generation PAs were blue and white, the caracteristic blue of the later EBs). One definitely needed such rubber soles, for instance on the 'Angle Allain' at Cuvier Rempart, one of Pierre Allain's classic problems in Fontainebleau.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2012 - 04:26am PT
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Thx Clint, noted and changed.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Oct 19, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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My first carabiners as a boy learning to climb in Boulder were
Pierre Allain steel carabiners, kind of heavy but we knew
they were good. Wow, I miss those days.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 21, 2012 - 05:12am PT
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Pierre Allain at work
Descendeur
PAs
Pierre Allain bouldring in Fontainebleau
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Oct 21, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
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Thanks for this Steve. Interesting how bouldering at Fontainbleau allowed Parisians to pick some of the plums in Chamonix, the North Face of the Dru and the West Face of the Blaitiere.
I never knew that before the Fissure Brown on the Blaitiere, there was the Fissure Fix. You have done the West Face and I wonder how the Fix compares to the Brown?
Rick
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Dec 13, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Dec 13, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
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My first rock shoes were PAs as well.
I LOVE reading through my old Mountain magazines. But I am selling everything, and have just sold my Mountain collection.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 13, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
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Great thread Blakey!
The great John Turner wore PAs that he bought directly from Pierre at his shop in Paris back in the 1950s. John was flirting with 5.10 on this side of the pond and quality footwear certainly contributed to his success.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 25, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
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Merry X-mas Bump....
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jan 11, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
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Sur Un Gendarme De L Arete Sud-ouest Du Moine.
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dustyrat
Trad climber
Leeds, West Yorkshire
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Jan 11, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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For your pleasure.......
L'Art De Alpinisme Pierre Allain 1956
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Feb 17, 2013 - 06:09am PT
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Pierre Allain. Source: Grimper
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
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Dusty Rat& Marlow,
Two great additions to the knowledge - Thanks.
Steve
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Wow, what a mega thread. This one should stay up front for a bit. So much cool stuff.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 27, 2014 - 09:25am PT
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