Mountain 57: A Crawl Down the Ogre

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Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
Doug Scott's account of his 1977 adventure.

Usual disclaimers apply. Click on the image for a larger view.

Steve










pneame

Trad climber
Tampa, FL
Oct 16, 2012 - 05:25pm PT
Epic tale. Thanks for posting.
The past really is a different world - I remember reading this when it was first published and the backstory of help from the locals at all levels (first class back to the UK courtesy of PIA!!) seemed entirely normal.
Nowadays, I can't see this happening without a lot of cash changing hands.

Or perhaps I am being cynical. Regardless, great story.
ec

climber
ca
Oct 16, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
A true badass adventure!

 ec
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Oct 16, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
genuine badass. I will read this tomorrow during my manicure while sipping my pumpkin latte frappuccino

healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Oct 16, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
Seems like that was part of a trio of articles along with a Taylor/Barber saga on Kilimanjaro and one other which I can't think of at the moment.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 17, 2012 - 12:17am PT
I wonder how his knees are these days. I'm guessing better than mine.
But then he probably didn't say as many Hail Marys as I did after confession.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 17, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
hey there say, blakey...

oh my and oh my, again,...


THESE are those special treasure that i love finding here at supertopo...

thanks so much for sharing this... i'd never know of this history stuff,
of the rocks, or even OF the rocks without you all sharing this...

and-THE PICTURES loaded fast... right here they were! just like that...
really nice with the story and all...



not to lighten all the modern shares and climbs, and pics, they are all
treasures as well, but this 'a bit buried to the non-climbers' like me,
and not as recent to be seen, is precious...

thanks for sharing this... now i know of a OGRE far different from
story books of childhood, ;))
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 17, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
Here's the man as he looked in 1991 -- fourteen years after the Ogre adventure, and getting ready for some fun-in-the-sun cragging on England's south coast.

steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Oct 17, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
Doug Scott climbed a route on Cathedral Ledge, ( 1 month after a hip replacement), several weeks ago; accompanied by Mark Richey, Freddie Wilkinson and Jason Kruk.

It was fun to watch.
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
A route only a month after a hip replacement - he's bonkers flying, never mind climbing.

Most of my mates here have had hip replacements, and have been out of climbing for at least six weeks, then ease into easy top roping....

Good to see he's still in the game.

Steve
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Oct 18, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
He was a master of understatement as well.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Oct 18, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
Scott gave a great talk in Calgary about the Ogre and his Mckinley climb with Haston.
He did not seem to like the French very much.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Oct 18, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
he didn't like the French so much? that's very hard to believe
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
Bump.........
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Feb 27, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
I'm bumpin this cuz when I'm down, I think of this story.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 27, 2014 - 03:03pm PT
hey there say... great bump!

i loved seeing this again...
also, the follow pics, i missed them, last time... :)
TwistedCrank

climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
Feb 27, 2014 - 04:37pm PT
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 23, 2014 - 01:02pm PT

Doug Scott interview in Mountain 144, 1992.
overwatch

climber
Jun 7, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
Wish I could read it again but these scan and posts are too hard to read on my phone. I remember it being a real tale of true grit, guts, balls and everything else. It its the kind of fortitude that sets the standard climbers should aspire to.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jun 7, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
When it came time for me to do my own personal crawl down the mountain, this story was all I was thinking about.

It got me through.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Mar 18, 2015 - 09:52am PT
bump
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 7, 2015 - 10:42am PT

In Conversation with Doug Scott
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Doug Scott portrait in England and in Himalaya on Chamlang and Makalu
[Click to View YouTube Video]
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Apr 24, 2018 - 05:47pm PT
Can someone post up the other two articles that went with the "Crawl Down The Ogre" in Mountain 57? It was a trio of articles under the heading of "Climbing Reconsidered" if I recall correctly. One was of Taylor and Barber on Kilimanjaro and off hand I forget what the third one was.
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2018 - 05:25am PT
Are the articles in that edition? (it's up in the loft and a major faff to check).

Steve
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Apr 25, 2018 - 06:45am PT
Hey Steve!

The other articles healyje mentions aren't in #57. Here's the contents list for 57 (save you dragging your poor old body up into the loft):

12 Editorial comment
13 Information
20 The Gogarth Saga
36 Proposed E grades for Climbers' Club Guides
38 A Crawl Down The Eiger
47 Books
49 Obituary
50 Letters

E grades for CC guides... whatever next... kids'll be using gymnastic chalk on the crags, I wouldn't wonder. Where will it end? Grumble grumble... :)
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Apr 25, 2018 - 04:24pm PT
Hmm, could of sworn the it was that one. Not sure where then, but it was the trio of stories (Ogre, Kilimonjaro, and another) each with their own title page, but preceded by that preface page of "Climbing Reconsidered". Must have been around that time, but maybe it was in Climbing. Thanks for posting up the ToC.
Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Apr 25, 2018 - 04:29pm PT
Scott has recently turned this episode into a short, well-illustrated book from Vertebrate Publishing (UK):

https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/categories/biographies/the-ogre.html

guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Apr 25, 2018 - 05:05pm PT
Doug sent me a copy of his book, "Up and About" last year. Excellent read and fascinating to see his bio on the very early years and subsequent development into a life of climbing.
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