New Hampshire Offwidths / Wide Crack Beta Request

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donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Oct 16, 2012 - 12:06pm PT

Sounds like an oxymoron....best you check out your frequent flyer miles.

Seamstress

Trad climber

Yacolt, WA

Oct 16, 2012 - 02:10pm PT

Is Carck in the Woods big hands? I walked by it on a rainey day, but it looks fabulous and fist sized at least to me....

mongrel

Trad climber

Truckee, CA

Oct 16, 2012 - 02:10pm PT

Well, I'd be the first to admit memory gets fuzzy after a long enough time, but all this talk about Reppy's being OW is very puzzling. Seems to me I recall this crack (same one I think?) being bomber hands, not even wide hands, all the way up except for one small pod (??!?). People other than myself were known to solo up and down it, solid hands. Am I totally losing it, or is this yet another Cannon crack that is changing its category, soon to become squeeze chimney? Or more likely both??

Vertigo is a great climb if any of it is left up there on the mountain, but I wouldn't bother doing it for the purpose of the wide crack. It's a really easy tight chimney, 5.7 or 8 it used to get called (which is about right in the context of Yosemite pitches that are correctly graded at those numbers). And it is extremely short.

Yes, Alan, along with Ben Ailes who was the one who spied the climb and showed us photos, Rocky Keeler (RIP) who was ALWAYS a motivating force for an adventure and a fountain of endless good nature, and I believe Harding was along. Waded the river and hiked up there, thought the totally unprotected long face bit to gain the bottom of the crack looked suicidal (none of us knew how to place a bolt or had a drill to do it with). Then you and Long really developed the crag, as I recall it, but surprisingly didn't snag Creation. That and a couple of routes on Pok-O still make me want to get back there in good enough shape to tick them.

Alan Rubin

climber

Amherst,MA.

Oct 16, 2012 - 03:30pm PT

Mongrel, thought that was you. Please contact me off list---it's been too long. And, yeah, Reppy's is mostly wide hands/fists in its upper 1/2 but is close to off-width for those of us with small hands. Alan

steveA

Trad climber

bedford,massachusetts

Oct 16, 2012 - 04:03pm PT

Just got back from Yosemite yesterday, and wish I was still there rather than COLD N.H., even thou I got pretty worked on the cracks.

Nutcracker, on Cathedral, is one of my favorite climbs. There is NO off-width climbing on it, nor on Turners Flake.

Repentance is slimy, and wet all the time.

I did Browns Fist a month ago on Cathedral. It is pretty wild, if you stay in the roof crack, and don't cheat by stemming, it's closer to 5.11, and turns into a real off-width, after you pass the roof. I was dangling on one fist jam under the roof, and it got even wider over the roof.
I did it with 2 guys who climb 5.12 trad. and they thought it was solid 5.11; not the sandbag grade of 5.9.

Black Crack is probably your best bet. Bring a few big cams, which we didn't have BITD.

Andrew Barnes

Ice climber

Albany, NY

Oct 16, 2012 - 05:39pm PT

One of the hardman testpieces at Cathedral Ledge in the realm of wide cracks is The Bridge of Khazad Dum (5.11d). I know it's not in the 5.9 to 5.10 range that you requested, but this is the real thing. It sits at the top of the "wall" section of the crag (you have to climb several pitches to get to it). The other option is to rap in from the top of the cliff, though you have to locate the rapping point first. Among other delicacies, it offers a huge roof traverse. Perhaps Mark Hudon or other hardmen on this site have done it and can offer their thoughts.

Edge

Trad climber

New Durham, NH

Oct 16, 2012 - 05:52pm PT

The Bridge is off-width size, but being in a horizontal roof/corner it doesn't climb like one; your feet always stay on the face below. Amazing pitch though.

franknfrank

Trad climber

US-east haven-ct

Oct 16, 2012 - 08:10pm PT

just thought of another really good one ---diedre direct 9+ and when you top out you can tr piss easy 9+++ or 10d??

Guangzhou

Trad climber

Asia, Indonesia, East Java

Oct 17, 2012 - 02:55am PT

Toe Crack 5.7 May have used a number 3 cam on it. (Face, to finger to Hands/fist)

Pine Tree Eliminate 5.8 (hands maybe fist) start on a ledge three+ pitched up. Vertical, excellent passive pro.

Turner's Flake is wide, but more of a lay-back. 5.7 but feels like 5.8 to many.

Black Lung 5.8 hands maybe fist, long time ago.

Nut Cracker 5.9+ Can't go wrong with this. Want to full effect, leave the cams on the ground and use nuts and hexes. Hands, fist, good workout for sure. If you're not solid with jams, tape up.

Diedre 5.10- The third pitch is hands and fist. (might be fourth because one pitch was very short. A spectacular pitch for sure. Small lip near the top to keep you honest.

While you're on Barber Wall, check out Double Vee 5.9+ thin fingers.

Jack the Ripper is 5.11, but if yo find a partner who can elad it, it's a wonderful route. Starts as vertical face, thin finger, hands, fist, and wider. Wonderful, but often wet.

Hope that helps.

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber

Pomfert VT

Oct 17, 2012 - 07:05am PT

All good climbs but most of them have more features that the cracks in the desert.

slabbo

Trad climber

fort garland, colo

Oct 17, 2012 - 11:42am PT

Murph-

Fear of Ejection out at Bartlett Haystack is fun
Diedre direct finish
Black Crack
These are all 5.10

Most of the good wire in NH is harder variety or more chimney affairs

OlympicMtnBoy

climber

Seattle

Oct 17, 2012 - 11:50am PT

Why are there no pictures in this thread???

Todd Eastman

climber

Bellingham, WA

Oct 17, 2012 - 02:42pm PT

There are no photos because the blackflies are so thick you can barely see the climbs...

Brandon-

climber

The Granite State.

Oct 17, 2012 - 02:47pm PT

There are no photos because the blackflies are so thick you can barely see the climbs...

Lies! The black flies are only around for a couple of weeks in early summer. Once you get off the ground even the skeeters go away.

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber

Pomfert VT

Oct 17, 2012 - 06:53pm PT

Because mostly no one climbes these with the exception of the half moon crack on vertigo and Reppys.....

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Sep 11, 2018 - 12:18am PT

A cry for the WHYDE!

While you say, "a bit light on details", here is the E.E. Appreciation thread

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2551655/Erik-Erikson-Appreciation-Thread

That you were asking about,

( here is an example of a full 'Reader's comprehension fail),
so that it is clear, I said something along the lines of,
"What, You need a guide book?"

of course you found it,

concerns ?

oh

never- mind

by the way,

hello,

you should post more.

& pictures,
this place is bone dry without pictures.

D Murph
Gnome isn't it always more fun without a guidebook? ;)

I miss the Gunks but man gotta say my one or two excursions at the Palisades might as well have been low altitude Pakistan. Latok is in Jersey, right?

kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA

Sep 11, 2018 - 12:48am PT
Pics, please!

just in case all this now goes away

yeah,
we who know what,
know what, without a guide book,
oh my gosh!
I'm sorry if that seemed snarky

(I was sleepless & tooling around in the way back archives)
as for the request for pictures?
yes , Murph,
add some pictures....

oh

...(!?)

What is more weird - is that I find you & D Murph, both, on a post, that I have dreams/ nightmares of.

I haven't run since 1994, but in my dreams I settle that score
With help from posts of yours & the like;

Mar 21, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
Interesting and well written story about Kilian. He's finally starting to become known in the US.

http://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/24/magazine/creating-the-all-terrain-human.html?pagewanted=all&_r=2&

originally from a 2012 thread ;

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1942681&msg=1942681#msg1942681

Jornet Mont Blanc Speed Solo

D Murph, climber

Original Post - Oct 1, 2012 - 10:56pm PT

http://trailrunnermag.com/people/culture/433-kilian-jornet-solos-innominata

Which, I think needs to be linked to here;

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3117002&tn=80

`
kunlun_shan,
how are you doing?
Sincerely, I'm always sorry that you got swept up in that -R -R_
stuff, My apologies

[Click to View YouTube Video]

D Murph

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2018 - 12:41am PT

Gnome isn't it always more fun without a guidebook? ;)

I miss the Gunks but man gotta say my one or two excursions at the Palisades might as well have been low altitude Pakistan. Latok is in Jersey, right?