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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 11, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
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I prefer a partner.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Oct 11, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
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my partner has dropped
me more times
than my self belay has failed.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 11, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
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You get dropped?
I'm not sure if that sez more about your partner selection or your climbing....
BWA HA HA hahahaaaaaa!!!!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Oct 11, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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Buy a silent partner and stuff the rope in a small pack with back up knots tied every so often. It's dead simple to use, no rope drag and no one tells you to hurry up.
Is a couple hundred bucks too much to spend on a system that is designed for rope soloing that works every time?
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 11, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
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I still don't get the "back up knots" thing in the backpack. So the rope goes from you silent partner, up over your shoulder, into the back pack for a ways, then back out of the back pack and to your harness for a clip, then into the backpack again etc. ??? sounds like a clusterf*#k to me. Or only clip the backup one time at the end of the rope (then just onetime the rope has to leave the backpack to clip to your harness???), OR you just put what are essentially jam knots in the rope which is in your backpack, but don't ever actually clip it to your harness. Then if your silent partner (or whatever) fails the knots will jam into the system preventing a free-fall to your death. I know, I need to see it in use, but if someone can spell it out more I'd appreciate it.
tia
personally, I use a silent partner, with one fairly long loop hanging to my backup, then the rest stacked in a rope bucket back at the belay. it works more or less, but the loop does get hung up on sh#t more then one would want. and often enough at just the wrong time. Backpacking the rope sounds like a great idea if I could just figure out how to do it safely.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Oct 11, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
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Well I was looking at another photo of that days lap and it's not clear to me that I was tied in at all that day. I had 2 bros tag along this day so we could do a FA of another route afterwards, I figured they'd just go off and leave me be but they wanted to watch and so they took pictures.
Think I was tied in but the photo suggests otherwise. I was very concerned as there was no cracks or obvious pro and I was planning on slinging knobs with these great slings Fish tied and a few over the shoulder 1/2" tubular webbing. I thought I'd be on these loose knobs, it's @300' to the deck in that picture there, but did find some hidden gear placements... .
I'd tried to pushed that pinnacle my foot is on off. It would have been a world class trundle, as it didn't go, I tossed a runner over it for pro.
I know I've tied backups when it gets strange and dicy. But like you say, it's more of a cluster to do so.
Most of the time it's just me in the middle of nof*#king place and they look like this:
I backed off that route in the lower photo and came back with my buddy who claimed I was trying to kill him via killer flake left in place (I didn't see it at all the first time I was there solo but glad it didn't kill me) and we never did the route:-)
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Oct 11, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
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I rope solo all the time and lets face it.....soloing is dangerous back up knots or what ever, mother nature also has it's own set of rules. All you can do is just be super aware of your surroundings and situation...........
Stevo
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Oct 11, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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Rockermike,
The knots I'm referring too are just overhands that I tie and stuff in the pack. When the rope comes out of the pack, over your shoulder you feel the knot. You stop, untie it and carry on. If you do them roughly in the same place every time, (I mark the rope) then you get a feeling when they are coming up. I"m also tied into the end of the tope.
The backup knots aren't tied to you. If the SP failed the knot jams. If everything failed you are still tied in. Hope this helps.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 12, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
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thanks John, that makes sense to me. I think I'll give it a try. can't imagine a knot working its way through the SP device. As long as the whole device doesn't blow apart for some reason.
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