The plunge...Deputy comes out alive but shaken

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elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 9, 2012 - 11:26am PT
http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-100712
10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Oct 9, 2012 - 11:42am PT
Good for Alice
Good for Scott
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
One of my favorite Reports in a while. Alice overcame some pretty harsh heat issues to finish her route, which I believe was her first solo. Hardcore.

The rest of the Report is just as good. Read it and comment here, and maybe we will start seeing the daily links again ;)
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
Hung out with deputy at the bridge for a bit during facelift. He spent a lot of time answering questions for tourists. Explained a few things I had wondered about regarding the full length El-Cap lowers and long hauls. Real solid guy.

Very glad his self belay finally caught before the end on that fall.. Nightmarish stuff.

Big grats to he and Alice

And thanks bigtime!! to you Tom for bringing us the action on the big stone like only you can
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
+1^^^ surprised to hear he wasnt even tied in to the END of the rope...
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
My buddy, Scott Deputy, did make a solo NIAD, topping out early this morning. Just as night fell a piece of gear pulled on him and he wheeled off for a 100 footer. He was almost to the ramp leading to Camp 5 and plunged past a team of two at the belay below, just missing them as he came by, inverted! His grigri was stuck open. He continued downward, lingering in the twilight between life and death.... the rope tangled in his legs and that flipped him upright... the grigri engaged and he was back in the world! His grigri seems to have been jammed by his fifi and kept the device from engaging properly. He was not tied into the end of the rope and had no back up!

Okay so I can't help but ask the question predicated on these notes: Scott "nearly hits" some climbers at a belay and wasn't tied into the end of his rope.

So what turned out to be "ten rounds with Mike Tyson" was a happy ending but could have been TOTALLY EPIC had the two climbers been hit and Scott gone all the way to the deck.

I'm REALLY glad things turned out for Scott as they did. But the pilot error on his part in this case was , IMHO, reckless.

Only my armchair quarterbackin' on this Tues a/m.
Googlymoogly

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
Tom says he wasn't tied into the rope and had no backup...So if the rope hadn't tangled around his leg he probably would have decked from almost the top?
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
What's that story from '98 or so where "Bulos" was soloing the Zodiac - again no backup and not tied in, using a grigri - his lead line "self fed" right on through and fell away, leaving him all alone on some heads in the middle of the white circle.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
Kinda hard to argue with that point, Tami. Backup knots don't cost much.

And I'd love to hear more about the Boulos situation....grim! Did he finish up Mitrovich-style?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
That right Googly. Very much a nightmare situation

One thing I'm sure about, nothing I can say would be something Deputy isn't very aware of regarding this incident. Plus I'll bet he can come up with even more personal critique. We have all blown it somewhere along the line. The human tendency for error and imperfect foresight is in my mind the greatest hazard in climbing. None are immune.

Solo NIAD .. very very tough .. hard to go that quick self belaying, cleaning and jugging. Perhaps he was able to solo some pitches or parts but basically he had to cover about 3 times the distance of an average NIAD ascent. Impressive and very glad it worked out.

nopantsben

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
excellent stuff. scott is the man!
thanks for the reports tom...
Googlymoogly

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
That right Googly. Very much a nightmare situation
In reality I knew this from the start but had a hard time believing it. You make a good point though about Scott understanding the chance he is taking. I wonder if he would do it the same way again

As others have said, Scott is an awesome guy!
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
What's that story from '98 or so where "Bulos" was soloing the Zodiac

I'm pretty sure that was "Ben-Wa", but I could be wrong.

Did he finish up Mitrovich-style?

No, a team that he just passed climbed up and brought him the rope.

This is a very dangerous technique for obvious reasons.

Once you get past the half way point the weight of the rope that's anchored into the wall can easily feed through your device. While your focusing on the climb you're suddenly stranded with no lead rope... especially dangerous if you decide to leave the tag/haul/rap line, as well.

Edit- Deputy is SOLID and I would rope up with him any day. I've seen lots of very experienced climbers use this technique. I'm glad he's ok and can remind us all why it's not a good idea. Cheers bro!
Spanky

Social climber
boulder co
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
I'm glad Scott is okay, backup knots or tieing in is a good idea. As for the story about Boulos I don't think that is accurate. He's a good friend of mine and we have climbed together quite a bit and he said he's done the zodiac twice but not solo. Maybe that story happened but it must have been to someone else. He is a badass though and and their are quite a few other stories about him that are super classic.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
Excalibur was the only time I used a grigri for a whole wall.

Never did like it. Guess I'll never get over that one.....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
jmo,, but gir gris seem to lead to a lot of dysfunction from the ol salty dawgs to noobs.
Ian Jewell

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
i sincerely hope that there was no damage to his facial hair , which is classified as a national historic landmark by the american civil war historic society.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Oct 9, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Pretty sure that was Boulos, ex-Neptune employee. I do also recall a possible similar story involving "Cave Ben" aka "Ben Wa", but I do not recall the details.
WBraun

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
Like the Pirate says;

I've seen lots of very experienced climbers use this technique.

I too never tied into the end and just left it hanging when soloing.

We knew the risks and what can/could happen.

Once you get past the half way point the weight of the rope that's anchored into the wall can easily feed through your device.


You just have to consciously diligently multitask your awareness while you're doing it.

Still the unexpected can happen. (Sh!t Happens). and you just might end up in Bay number 2.

Do ya really think we're that stupid?

:-)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Oct 9, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
Stoopid Americans....
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