Kohl Alpinist Article


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Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 8, 2012 - 04:30pm PT

What did you think of it?


Trad climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
I wish Alpinist did more articles along that line. Always curious what names from the past are up to and if climbing is still a part of their life. I was jazzed when I saw Hudon and Jones here on ST and still going after it at a ADVANCED AGE, hee hee. Gives me hope.

Big Wall climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
havn't read it yet. I hope there aren't too many lies

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Oct 8, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
It is a well written piece . . . EK is a bad ass motherf*#ker.

Tell us more.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 8, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
Was the part with the gerbils true?

Oct 8, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
WTF? I must acquire this mag! Klaus is one of the most bad-ass climbers I've ever known. I hope they didn't malign his character or distort the truth as per usual with anything media-related.

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 8, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
One word.


Nuff said.

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 12:09am PT
They said you didn't know how to ride a bike, but could climb the sh#t out of any wall.


my mag copy came in the mail. may be a bit before it's at the newstand.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:15am PT
Was the part with the gerbils true?

Please do tell more about them gerbils >: )

Social climber
Oct 12, 2012 - 11:16am PT
Chris done well. Excellent portrait of a big wall/aid climber just getting on with it.

"Ya put yourself in the situation, ya gotta deal...."

Or something like that.

The stuff about gerbils? nothing unusual there, not sure why the comments above ;-)


Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 12, 2012 - 11:17am PT

The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Oct 12, 2012 - 11:31am PT
So Klaus, is the VSA story coming out in the next (winter 2012) issue?

right here, right now
Oct 12, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
It's a good write up.
And not in that age-old massive penitence/protracted suffering & risk-taking + booze = 15 min. of fame kind of way.

A well researched and humbly told story of a guy out there doing his thing in his own particular way and for his own particular reasons.
Plus some fun biographical artwork.

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Oct 12, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
I thought it was pretty good

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 12, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
How many O'E's were consumed during the interview?

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 01:25pm PT

hah, mucci!

Right on, Tar. I thought it was pretty good too. Klaus' name was an enigma to me when I first got the 93 Big Walls book by Don Reid. But Reid and others had the foresight to capture FA information. Which meant you could e.g. tell these guys had a wicked good sense of humor, e.g. naming Via Sin Liquor next to Via Sin Aqua, not to mention the sheer number of Walls which would tell you their dedication to the life.

Anyways, glad to see the article.


Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Oct 13, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
Can I get an autograph?

Oct 14, 2012 - 11:19am PT
When we climbed "jesus built my hotrod" in Oct. 1994 it was my 4th wall and my partners had also done similarly few. Alex, over salsa, chips and peanuts at the mountain room said, "You'll have fun" and who were we to argue with the great Lowe, always willing to roll in the dirt with the bags.

I was looking forward to it, because having climbed the south face of column and knowing Klaus was a shorty, I figured reaching the next placement would be cake. None of this Layton Kor bs with me attempting to high step in the biner my aider was attached to.

We also thought the Jesus mini-thin pitch was a narrow seem and many years later at a truck stop, it came to me.

Along the way we took two huge whippers, ran out of water before vodka, and actually thought the anchors were more than sufficient. The ethic led me to
put up a route in the Valley with no bolted anchors or fixed heads (well we left one as a calling card).
One of the Jesus falls by Sean Easton was onto a taped in hook. As he fell, Nanook kept throwing out slack, Nanook thinking Sean was yelling for more rope kept it up till Shawn was in view, none to happy. Fact was "Sean was yelling for hope."

Chris's writing impressed me. Really a nicely crafted piece. He should write more.

Klaus always seemed like a regular guy with no fear of flying. I guess folks are intimidated by those that prefer the company of the wind.


Mark Not-circlehead

Martinez, CA
Oct 15, 2012 - 02:55am PT
Great article, great magazine too.

Klaus, you and I shared a few Elephants I think the day before you left for Bishop, at the Deli....Funny the things you remember for twenty years......
Matt Thomsen

Big Wall climber
Oct 17, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
Great article! Thanks chris and erik.
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