Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2012 - 12:14pm PT
|
Coz -
Not intending to knock your efforts in any way...you, Randy and a handful of others have done more to push forward hard climbing in the Park than everyone else combined. This route, as with many of your others, is super proud and highly aesthetic.
You bring up Alan Moore as a champion of your lines, but remember his positive ape index when you use him as a defense. You might be interested in knowing too that he is one of the people who calls routes like Integrity, New Deal, and Cutting Edge "reachy."
As I said, not trying to take away from your successes in any way. They are all hard routes and among the best in the Park, but some of them do have big moves on them that contribute to the grades.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2012 - 01:28pm PT
|
Maybe I should grab some lycra and lower to the 5.10 section on Games?
I have some Lycra you can use.... you might find the .10 section a little interesting.
If you wish to get a little taste, do the climb left of "Perpetual Motion"...same start. Besure to use double ropes.
That climb Scott did is one of the gems of the park, no body gets on it.
ROCKMAN.... go for it, good luck.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
|
I've done all the moves, at 5'8" (with no chance of linking more than a few at at time cause I'm not good enough or strong enough). But it IS a tall guy's route. There are clips that are very reachy, and clips from funky positions. It would be a very hard lead for someone under 6' just due to the clips.
I belayed Alan on it a few days, and he came so close a bunch of times. Would fall after hanging the crux hold, then re-do the crux and climb to the top. It was heartbreaking, season was winding down, and it mainly came down to getting there early enough for sending temps.
The bottom couple of bolts is 5.12ish, basically vertical thin edging, then it's hard and sustained bouldering up the prow with your body basically always on the right side of the prow except as you hang the crux. The crux move is a huge throw to a sort of hueco/pocket thing with an edge in the bottom, around the left side of the arete about 3/4 up.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
|
Any routes that you'd compare it's difficulty to?
So many climbs it seem never get repeated, then get repeated a bunch because the stigma of 'unrepeatable' is gone (like Jim Holloway's boulder problems, Action Directe, Realization... all far from California.... hrm. lol)
|
|
rockman143
Trad climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 01:28am PT
|
I decided to get on desert shield instead (same height and grade just more clips) there are some big moves on that to but still doable and a good route (i'm 5'10ish). Its just a little bit broken, you can tell many holds have fallen off. still an amazing Coz route well done and my hats off.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!