Going back to Cali!

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Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 30, 2012 - 12:53am PT
He told us to meet him at Pegs Glorified Ham N Eggs..

I have eaten there and after being a B'fast cook for fideen years, I would say silver knows his stuff. Pegs is really good.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 30, 2012 - 12:57am PT
Jeebus next time I make it to the east side we should fire one up!!

I know, man! Sucks I missed ya, but I guess you were on your way out anyway. There's great climbing in the Tahoe area too if you allowed a day or two.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 30, 2012 - 01:04am PT
Big mikes wacky action pano's coming up!!

Back in the days of EBs and Whillans Harnesses, we had to take exotic drugs to see sh#t like that. Getting it via some pictures taken with a telephone just ain't the same, but it's still pretty cool.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 02:14am PT
Jebus- Ya we were in and out like the wind... Next time I might just fly into Reno and check out what the else the eastside has to offer!!

Back in the days of EBs and Whillans Harnesses, we had to take exotic drugs to see sh#t like that. Getting it via some pictures taken with a telephone just ain't the same, but it's still pretty cool.

Rofl!!!!! You don't know Dave! Maybe my phone is on drugs!!

More trippy phone pics for Dave!!








Wayno- Pegs was dope! I would almost go back just for that!!!

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 02:35am PT
On a personal note, I would like to take a minute to acknowledge everyone who helped make this happen, Wayno your hospitality on both ends of the trip was amazing. It was seriously more than we had ever dreamed of. Ghost, your inspiration and encouragement here and via email were very much appreciated. To all those who sent me route suggestions and encouragement/ beta via email or in thread, you made my trip that much more smooth and the simple gesture meant a lot to me.

To Relic my partner in crime and rope mate, it never would have happened without you dude!!! Thanks for everything!!! To Aislinn who put up with my endless posting of more images and late night posts. To Luke and Doug for transporting gear for me and securing our humble abode. To Dan for letting me use his computer, being a ethical inspiration and all the shits and giggles. Also thanks for not waiting for me to get my sh!t together on Salathe wall! You probably saved my life!!!!


Thanks to everyone who posted here and came along for the ride. It was amazing to have you!!!!!

The greatest thing about this thread is re-reading it and your comments now that I have a better understanding of the context...

Oh ya.... I got more pics and I left lots of juicy details out of this thread...... So stay tuned for a full blown Trip Report!!!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
Mike, that inner voice told me it would be worth it, and it was right. That is what we do. There is something in this connection we all share as "climbers" that I don't care to analyze too much, but just try to nourish and enjoy. Brother.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
Mike you guys are welcome anytime and if you see big mike n person you know why they call him big mike that's why I took him to big breakfast.

Glad you made it home safe come back ill make time and we will show you some great stuff from Tahoe to Whitney.

Have a safe winter gets some big turns in and if we see in the Whistler this winter don't be too surprised.

Silver
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
What???!!! Dude I hope so!! It would be my pleasure to share my pow stashes with friends!!!

Thanks Wayno!! Come sledding this winter man you will love it!!!
this just in

climber
north fork
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
Sh#t yeah. Great photos and can't wait for the TR. I'll be in Whistler in March, hope the snow is good this year. Mongolian Grill! Damn I'm hungry know.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
Like wise Mike if we're getting big snow come visit and well show you Squaw and some of our favorites as well.

Best to you guys this winter and buy Luke. Beer for me one night at the pub for ticking off the Muir.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
Justin you better drop me a pm when you come so we can go shred some pow!!!!


Silver you got it bud!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
Got a few SLR photos done for Facebook... Can you tell???

Dan on the first pitch of Salathe Wall 10c?

This pic damn near killed me. If I were here 5 minutes later I woulda got squashed for sure!!!!




Mark on Test of the Ironman v4


Is it just me or are there a lot of contrails in my pics???
this just in

climber
north fork
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
For sure, can't wait to get back up there. Have a good one mike and write that TR!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:15am PT
That photo of Dan is really good.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 03:33am PT
Another SLR teaser....

Stars on El Cap.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 03:35am PT
Thanks Ryan. It felt pretty cool just hanging there taking it! :)

edit: oh ya forgot to mention... that pitch is amazing!!!! so much fun!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 02:23am PT
So on Thursday I had a couple of things to do in the morning but my afternoon was clear and I still really wanted to go climbing. I felt like my roadtrip just wasn't ready to end...

The boys finished up our latest gig and when we moved the stuff one of them had some personal business to go take care of so Kieran and I siezed the opportunity to get some pitches in!!

We ditched this view....





For this one... (The Chief)




The Squaw


On the way in from the parking lot we ran into "Micro Mark". I asked him WTF are you doing here dude???? I said you should be in the valley!!!!! He laughed and smiled and says I love this sh!t man!!! He asks us where we are going and I said penny lane! He says cool i'm going there too! He split off at one point to go set up a top rope from above.

Up Up and Away 5.9 was free and I love this rig so I racked up quickly.. (member this one Tami?)


Just as I was about to set off, who should toss a rope over but Mark.. he was working the 13a prow “To Be Exposed” next to up up and away.. This Sonnie Trotter FA looked desperately thin on gear but mark had one decent piece in and a couple average ones… I chit chatted with Mark a bit and ate the crack for breakfast. I instantly appreciated Squamish granite that much more. Every lock was solid and every foot was bomber and grainy and felt like it would never slip out… The temperatures were amazing! 6 to 7 degrees (celcius) max and the friction was all-time…

I LOVE SQUAMISH GRANITE!!!!!!!

I flowed through the crux without a single hesitation and placed less gear than I ever have on that upper section. Kieran seconded it with ease and while he was taking it down I got to watch Mark try the crux on TBE. He flowed through the moves and seemingly was pasting his feet on nothing with no hands until he slowly barn doored off.

We left Mark to his project and headed over to Partners in Crime 11a


Kieran tried it a couple times but the opening moves were wet so he didn’t want to commit. We decided to try Climb and Punishment 10d instead.
He loved this one but got shut down at the crux, and whipped on the pin.



While he was hanging I had time for a few photos..



The trees were sporting their fall colours



It took Kieran quite a while to get it done and it was pretty much dark by the time I took it down. I pretty much got it clean besides having to fight a couple cams that Kieran shoved in there….

We packed up and headed back to the car so we could go pick Mark up. We went over to his place and ran into him as he was headed towards the Cliffside. I suggested that we go to the brew pub because the food was at least passable there vs Cliffside…

Mark must know a few people at the pub because we got the hugest plate of nachos I have ever personally witnessed at the brew pub…. It is amazing to converse with someone who has just as much stoke as you do. I felt as if we had a lot in common even if he is playing at an infinitely higher level…

He told us about his ascent of Genus Loci and how it was probably one of the coolest things he had done all summer.. I asked him if he liked it so much that he would go lead it again, but he said he would rather second it for a friend if they were trying to get the redpoint… ;)

I took this cheesy photo…



Kieran and I both had fun hanging out with Mark. Next morning it was back to work... ;)

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 2, 2012 - 02:40am PT
Way to get after it Mike! But, uh, er, isn't there another thread that could benefit from your photos & stories! Wahaha


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 02:45am PT
allready cross posted buddy :)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 2, 2012 - 02:46am PT
Excellent.
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