Going back to Cali!

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Messages 181 - 200 of total 501 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 18, 2012 - 12:48am PT
When you guys go to Bishop be sure to check out the Hot Springs at Hot Creek and beyond. Ask some locals in Mammoth Lakes where they are.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2012 - 12:52am PT
We got a pretty early start this morning..... Then we forgot the tag line..... Fortunately it was a short drive down one of the only two way roads in the valley that I've seen so far... like Relic said it was pretty darn warm...

After he almost sent the first pitch, I sent the second via the 10b traverse move and brought him up.









The start of p3





Knob at the belay




Crux of p3 (Taken on rappel)




Close up of the pin scars


Valley Pano


We chilled and Rehydrated at the base of the tree on sunset ledge and I think the adrenaline was going pretty good at that point because I felt alright still..

Relic took us up to the 5.6 anchor on Sons of Yesterday and and I sent the 10a pitch. I felt really good today and cleaned everything but the 3rd pitch crux of serenity crack.



Couple pics of Relic dying on sons.

















3rd pitch of sons





Relic wasn't very stoked when I took this Pano




We parked at the Awanhnee Hotel so after we went to get some water and chilled on the back patio




We met a very brave squirrel.


Then we went to currie and showered for the first time this trip ;) So yes, there are still dirtbags in camp 4 ;)

Touron rest day tomorrow...




Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 18, 2012 - 01:04am PT
Turn at the green church... I been there Wayno. Can't wait to hit it again!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 18, 2012 - 02:42am PT
You guys could put the hurts to Half Dome. The crux is the hike, according to Daryl.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 18, 2012 - 03:00am PT
Way to go boys! Go get more!

2 things:

 where the hell is Luke?? Is he still wall livin' on the Muir?

 u guys really need to simul Tenaya peak or Cathedral/Eichorn or do Fairview or West crack or South crack or On the lamb or 3rd pillar or Oz or Something in the meadows on your way to Bishop, after a week on the valley stone u guys will just eat that stuff up & probably tag a rad summit as well. I hope the weather is good for u guys.

Keep climbing for us soggy Squaminards & bring some high pressure back next weekend!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 18, 2012 - 03:05am PT
Yeah, just how is the young padawan getting along? The Force is strong in that one.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 18, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
The route just gets better and better on the Muir its tedious down low arching shallow corners.

This is a great first route you get a good look at the Shield side and then you get a great look at the Nose of the Capitan. You get to use a lot of techniques on this route.

If Luke is in contact let him know when he gets to the Dihedral near the top to look left at the base, there is an amazing ledge out there and its maybe 5.6 and 50 feet over from the corner to it. Nice place to hang for a night.



MH2

climber
Oct 18, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
WOOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!!!!


Thanks all for the stoke.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 18, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
Yup, they are up on the Muir Wall. We went and creeped on them today in the meadow this afternoon, our rest day. Tom Evans showed up and gave us a closer look at them on pitch 14, just before the grey ledges. Luke was hauling the kit up the tedious slab while Doug was leading up. Once they get to the grey ledges, the slab is below them and the steeper stuff begins.

Check them out on elcapreport
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
Yep. Rest day today...


Ryan the plan is to hit something on the way for sure.

Wayno the crux would be getting Relic to hike up there!!!

More later...
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 18, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#268929

One taste of the route. Last belay of the
Dihedral. Pretty smooth
photo not found
Missing photo ID#268930
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 18, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
The steep is between camp 4 level and the dihedral. Some great stuff in there. The pitch I believe after the 10 d flaring ow is this just awesome splitter with some great cam hooks and just super fun. Then you get that nutting pitch and then this really cool thin seam.

I really enjoyed this climb and did it with ST poster 426 on the 30 th anniversary of its FA. TM Herbert works here in town and 426 and the Herbert's go way back. A really awesome climb and nothing over the top,scary now that the death block before the dihedral is gone. That was a scary block with no know attachment point.





T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 19, 2012 - 12:52am PT
Rest day photo is at Steamboat?
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 19, 2012 - 02:38am PT
I hear Merced Grove is a real cool place to check out. Some kinda high woo-woo factor stuff I hear. Close your eyes, still your mind and just listen. Wonder.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Oct 19, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
I read this morning [no doubt others did too] that Nancy Hansen, from Canmore Alta just made a three day ascent of the Nose, with Lydia Marmont, likely from the same area.

What makes this special is this was tick #44 on Nancy's quest to climb all of the 50 Classics. Very impressive. Did you guys cross paths? She could autograph BM's new helmet! :)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
Silver, thanks!!! It looks rad up there.. I'm definitely going to have to join Luke for some aid fun one of these days. I keep going free climbing though and then he asks me to go I'm the winter when It's puking outside.... I was a snowboarder first!!

Biotch- on the way back from El Portal to get gas. Near Elephant Rock?

Hamie- Not yet but it's a small world... We met Paul Brennan today though which was pretty cool....

Yesterday we had a nice breakfast then went to check out Bachar Cracker






Relic almost had it figured out.

On the way back to camp saw a fat squirrel sunning himself
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
Then went to the meadow to visit Tom and the boys.




Then Tom came to visit us in the west meadow while we were watching the Luke and Doug, and was kind enough to show us his process.



This is as close as I've been to the rostrum




Ais staring at it from the road.



After we got back from El Portal we went to the Ansel Adams Gallery, it was super cool! We also checked out the visitor centre.




This deer let me get super close!!


What did we do today???? Got some unfinished business taken care of. More later.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Oct 19, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
I'm not sure if aid and fun should be that close together in a sentance haha
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 19, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
What makes this special is this was tick #44 on Nancy's quest to climb all of the 50 Classics.


Holy smoke! Are you serious? 44 out of the famous fifty? she's only got six to go ? that is outrageous - but i bet its the biggies to go huh? Hummingbird maybe? Middle triple? has she done the Salathe? Fairweather? I lost my copy so I can't remember all the long shots - what else?

Also: Mike - If you guys don't do the east butt of the captain don't even bother coming home
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 19, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
If you guys don't do the east butt of the captain don't even bother coming home

+1
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