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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
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I like Squamillian.. :)
Here's a couple more from Friday.
Central Pillar of Frenzy 5.9
This huge block is just sitting precariously at the fifth belay....
The views are insane all over town.
Chillin at the meadow creeping on the boys...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
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Yesterday was super fun. We wanted to get Aislinn out since she hadn't got to climb much, so we took her to Knob Hill and made her lead everything.
On the way we stopped to check out the boys progress and I took this shot in the meadow.
Then we went out to Knob Hill.
Aislinn led the seldom done Unknown 5.9
Then she led the 5.10 slab and killed it!
She ropegunned us up the 5.7
Relic had the sickest knob dyno
Then we went to denagan's for some lunch and went back to camp to get changed before the presentation.
Ais got a quick slackline in.
Ed Cooper's photos were absolutely amazing!
I got a chance to meet Ed!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Oct 22, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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Yer unknown at Knob Hill is Pot Belly. Loved yer Meadow shot.
Diggin' it all, man.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 22, 2012 - 01:30am PT
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Squamese bump.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 22, 2012 - 03:13am PT
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Have fun on the eastside boys! Be sure to get a pic of Big Mike on ironman if it's even physically possible :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2012 - 03:13am PT
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Skully pot belly is the 5.8 no?
I am currently standing in the desert just outside bishop. We are bivied near the Buttermilks.
Bouldering tomorrow it seems. Not my strong suit. It should be fun though ;)
More pics from today's journey when I get to wi-fi tomorrow.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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The Boys were pushing for the top last night silver. They probably got snowed on a bit.. Luke loves epics though so this should be right up his alley. Maybe Aislinn will give us an update now that relic and I have left the valley.
Mouse it rained this morning in the milks this morning but it's drying up here in town.
We have an alternate route planned on the 50 if 120 gets closed. We fly back wed and it looks to be rainy...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
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So Relic and I were up at 5:45 yesterday because I had serious summit fever. The plan was east butt of El Capitain. I was super psyched! We got to the parking lot and there was another party racking up, so we tried to hurry but to no avail.
Relic of the 2010's is not much on approaches anymore since he started wrestling pebbles full time... They smoked us up the trail so we took our time getting there and I had time for a few pics.
The sun just hitting the top of the Captain.
I love this phone for panos!!!!
When we got near the base we saw the team ahead of us heading back towards us....
They told us there were 5 parties ahead of us, and the first one was a party of three with two huge expedition bags, and were moving very slowly.
We decided to head up to the base and check it out.
They weren't lying....
We decided to bail, not wanting to deal with the gong show and the rock fall potential....,
Relic looking dejected...
I was extremely disappointed and dejected for some reason... I think I let the peer pressure of some nasty comments get to me.
It was pretty darn beautiful up there though....
Middle Cathedral
The Captain is amazing!!!
We went back to camp with our tail between our legs and had breakfast at the caf with Aislinn.
Then bid goodbye to the valley and the captain
Off to the happies!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
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Report is Luke topped out last night but Doug and the kit didn't. Hopefully not too snowy up there...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 22, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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Mouse from Merced knows.
+1 heuvos from petite pantry, it's a massive plate & so good. Eat 1/2 & ask to get it packed up & they roll your leftovers into a burrito u can eat at the boulders. Nom, nom, nom.
The whole time the owner should be telling you border patrol stories about bringing justice to the Mexicans who tried to cross illegally. This is funny since he appears to be quite Mexican himself. Then someone may walk in with a file folder at which point he literally puts on a green, plastic accountants visor & pulls out a big accounting calculator with the paper roll & sits down & starts doing taxes . Yes petite pantry is the best restaurant/immigration office/accounting firm I have probably ever been to.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 22, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
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Sh#t hit the fan up on Muir wall. I topped out around 10pm last night shorty after a nasty gear ripping fall. The tag line was stuck and the weather was getting fierce. I told Doug our best option was to leave the gear and bail for the valley, but he refused to leave the bags and insisted he was staying at belay 30. So off I went on an 8 mile wander and made it back to camp shortly before the storm hit.
Plans to go back and rescue him myself went sideways when I woke up to see snow on the valley rim. So I notified the NPS and YOSAR and they plucked his hypothermic stubborn ass off about a half an hour ago.
I've been beating myself up all day about whether I did the right thing leaving him there to fend for himself. Although we had all the equipment to theoretically survive a storm, it was certainly not on my list of super cool things to do.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Oct 22, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
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Wow!
Weather and hypothermia will change people in bad ways.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 22, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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Luke! Holy shlt, sounds like you guys got lucky. Don't beat the crap outta yourself too much over your call to top out & get the f out. I would have left my stuff & returned later to avoid epic suffering if it was an option. Plus you technically finished the route. The tricky part is that your partner did not agree & wanted to stay with the things. At least you guys are both ok. Looking forward to the TR.
Bruce you have reduced Mike to -gasp- bouldering with your comments! I hope you're proud of yourself.
Edit- :-)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Oct 22, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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Way to go Luke!! Good sports action !!
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MH2
climber
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Oct 22, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
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Thanks for telling us how it ended up, Luke. What was Doug's plan?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 22, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
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First things first: Big hats-off to Luke and Doug.
I was extremely disappointed and dejected for some reason... I think I let the peer pressure of some nasty comments get to me.
So, you live, and you learn. Next year, skip the Valley and go to The Needles. Best alpine cragging on the planet. No line ups, no crowds, no beat-to-shit pin scars, no connect-the-chalk-marks, shoe-polished rigs on which you will do the nine-thousandth ascent, no campgrounds full of tourons and deadbeats, no noise (except for the F-16s screaming by below you), no rescue if you f*#k up, no nothing except pure climbing on the best granite you'll ever touch.
See you Wednesday
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 02:23am PT
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Bruce- No worries dude!! I know how to control my emotions and usually I don't let other people get to me. I wanted a summit too, guess I just didn't know how bad till I got the nudge.
X marked the spot so we decided to get the fvck out of dodge!!
It only took one look at Tuloumne to sort me out!!!!
Pothole dome??
Cool trees with mad Chemtrails in the background!!!
Breathtaking!!
Me and Relic tagged our first summit of the trip ;)
Incredible rock!!!!!
Tenaya lake... Amazing!!!
It was hard to get any driving done!! The meadows was so peaceful.
Cool clouds outside lee vining.
Relic in heaven at Las Palmas
El Pastor was so delicious!!!!
Went to the happy's today and was super impressed!!!
Luke- thanks for the update! Good to hear things worked out! You did the right thing in my mind! If I were up there with you I would have joined you for the walk down to camp and gone back for the stuff later. No pride in getting plucked off by yosar!!!!!
Ghost- I wouldn't change a thing. The valley was necessary and I enjoyed every minute of it and learned alot. The pinnacles look rad tho!!! Next time for sure! Looking forward to visiting on weds.
Relic wants to go to bed so we should peace out. More pebbles tomorrow!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 23, 2012 - 02:30am PT
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Nice photos Big mike!! Las Palmas ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
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