Going back to Cali!


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Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
Briham- Everytime I go through Squamish I get the same feeling but I had been anticipating this day for some years so it was definitely extra special....

Wayno- I bet man! Thanks again for everything!!!! It made things so smooth!!! Bros for life!!!!

Mouse, if we make it south we will for sure look you up!! Relic is itching to get to Bishop so we might yet..

MH- No 3G down here so no on the spot reporting unless I want to pay 1$ per megabyte which is about 2 pics so nightly reports is the best you can hope for..,

Malemute is close we are at the curry lounge eating pizza deck, drinking beer and spraying on the Internet.

Phylp- Thanks I'm a big fan of Hudon's live threads and I think it adds a little something..

Working on pics now. Update soon!!
Captain...or Skully

Oct 14, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
We're diggin' you, man. Dig big.

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 14, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
We are just chilling in Curry Village, poaching the interwebs and drinking pretty ok beers. Aislinn and I both noticed our sinuses got totally congested. Is this the onset of the Hanta? Are we dying? Should we call SAR?

We had a super lazy day today with barely any climbing. Luke onsighted Bummer, that was cool, while Mike sent Jamcrack as his first climb in the Valley. So we did a few there, left, ate too much, layed bloated under Midnight Lightning, gave it a pathetic go, failed hard, then humped some loads for Luke and Doug for their Muir Wall climb starting early tomorrow.


Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 14, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
Whatever you do don't netipot them sinuses with river water. You could get the brain eating amoeba and die.



Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 14, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
Just arrived Saturday for this light.

The Hand of Aislinn and Luke

After humping loads for Luke
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
Oct 14, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
That crag behind you - is that Yamnuska? You should put your helmet back on.
Captain...or Skully

Oct 14, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
That Dude will rock the Muir Wall! And love doing it.

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 14, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
I am kinda curious what Luke's plans are for the Muir. Is he going to fix any, or just go? How many days does he plan on?

Kid, whatever you do, take lots of water. I know it weighs but your kidneys will love you. I have gout now and I'm sure that running out of water on two walls contributed to the situation. It really sucks.

Best thread on the Taco right now. Live Upfull you hosers.
Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
So the morning started off slowly.... I woke up three times last night to an empty thermarest. I blew it up each time, and awoke each time flat on the ground... Relic got the car keys from me at 6 am so we could actually get a parking spot.

When I awoke at 8 he was second in line. We had a late start and I got a chance to introduce myself to Jesse at Sunday morning climbers coffee.

Canuck camp

We got a Squamish start today about noon.. We were all pretty lazy this morning and were content to chill and get organized. We wandered over to sunnyside slabs because Relic thought I deserved the same Yosemite intiation that he was treated to.

On the way we passed by what is supposed to be Yosemite falls.

We got on Jam Crack 5.9 after a short wait and Luke got on Bummer 10c. He onsighted it
As I was putting up jam crack. It went pretty well. The bottom was pretty polished but the foot jams were exactly the same as at home and the jams were solid. I linked the first pitch into the second and placed my last cam that would fit right before the top. It was pretty warm but not overly so and was immediately in love with Yosemite granite.

No pics of my lead or Luke's but I did get a few when Ais stepped up to the plate

She sent the first pitch and skipped the second. By this time another party had showed up and we were all hot and hungry so we sauntered back to Camp Four.

We had some lunch and while digesting were debating what to do with the afternoon. Luke wanted us to help him hump a load up to the muir wall. I kinda wanted to climb more but was pretty lazy and Relic wanted to boulder.

There was a session going on at midnight lightning so Relic went over to check it out and I joined him soon after.

I convinced him to give it a burn but he didn't get far, and was pretty disappointed with himself for not being able to remember the beta Kauk has dropped on him years ago.

Then Doug got back and we took some gear up to the base of El Cap



Cool trees

Luke hanging the gear at the base of Muir wall

Alpenglow on El Capitan

Gotta go! Peace!

Edit fixed dry Yosemite falls pics...
Captain...or Skully

Oct 14, 2012 - 10:08pm PT

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Oct 14, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
Cool pictures...I'm jonesing for a valley trip. Tfpu

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Oct 14, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
Today we had torrential rains with many roads closed around Vancouver as if Mother Nature was making up for our 2 1/2 month Cali dry spell. Perfect timing jumping on the Ark to Cali, Mike.
All of us armchair climbers are living through you and your thread vicariously as if it was our first trip. So go get er done and post LOTS of pics as climbing porn is the next best thing after the real thing.
As far as climbs I like the long routes so you get the awesome views to go with the climbing then take rest days at the smaller crags.The first climb I did upon arrival was East ridge of Middle Cathedral rock,perfect intro to Yosemite with that little bump across the valley staring you in the face the whole time.
Oh and by the way I'm soo jealous.

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 14, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
Digging the ongoing pics and commentary. It is a cool style. The color of the October sun really comes through in those El Cap shots. It brings back some sweet memories. I'm looking forward to the next installment.

edit- Hairyhotdog sums it up pretty well. Get to the Rim at least once.


A long way from where I started
Oct 14, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
You Seattle and Vancouver dweebs can only look on jealously as the boys soak up the sun. And I'm soaking up the sun, too. But unfortunately it is in a part of the world flatter than piss on a plate, so I'm just as jealous.

And what Harry said about Middle. Get over there and get on something. East Buttress. Central Pillar. I'm no Yosemite Hero, but in the few pilgrimages I've made, climbing on Middle has been what left me with the best memories.

Oct 14, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
Crush that shlt Luke!


Trad climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 11:48am PT
I pretty much hate you all right now. That first pic you put up of the Valley Mike was amazing, and settled it for me. Next year, around this time, I'm going. Book your time off now boys, cause it's going down.
Have fun. Don't die.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 15, 2012 - 11:50am PT
Hopefully the midday TR will be along soon.

You guys should all come to the FaceLift next year, and stay afterward for some climbing. Course, you can get in some climbing during the FaceLift, especially if connected to some cleanup or a history project...

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 15, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
Don't feed the raccoons Mike !!!


Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 15, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
First pitch of Salathé Wall

15 mins after I took this, a tv sized rock came screaming down at us, missed us by metres. Learned not to climb under a million parties on the Captain.

We will hit middle cathedral tomorrow. Central pillar and east butt of middle are awesome I agree!
Captain...or Skully

Oct 15, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
If your routefinding is good, hit The Flakes. Seriously cool route.
It's on Middle.
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