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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 17, 2012 - 01:40am PT
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Dammit Relic, screw the heel hook, flip the wing and press that mantle out. And btw you don't really need a pad there. %^)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 17, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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Yayaya. I can't mantle this stuff for shite. I get ny long limbs all folded like a pretzel. Bouldering here is harrrrrrrd. Humbling for sure.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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Big Mike here coming at you from Dan's computer!!! So sick.. Iphone can suck it as far as typing goes...
Woke up at 9 this morning so my thermarest patch must have done something... Relic was no where to be found so I started organizing gear... The plan for the day was Central Pillar of Frenzy and I was stoked. It was a bit of a late start again....
We finally got up there and there was another party all ready on it, and they weren't moving very quick.
We asked if they were planning to do the whole climb but they weren't sure so we decided to head over to Pee Pee Pillar to warm up. Aislinn wanted to lead the 5.7 and when ais wants to lead something we let her.
Aislinn on p1 Paradise Lost 5.7
Sending
Sent
The other party bailed from Central Pillar so after all climbed it we went over to the base. They were canucks too from toronto. Relic led the first pitch and dragged three ropes, Two halfs and a tagline single. By the time he got to the top and brought me and Ais up he was over it.
I took another valley pano from up there though.. So sick!!
Ais at the crux
Relic wanted to bail and leave me and Ais to finish up, but by the time we got all the ropes untangled I was over it. I always stack my halfs together because it makes for good belays but when you try and take one rope out of the system you're f'ed..
We decided to go back to Pee Pee Pillar and Ais gave me the little shove I needed to lead it.
Aislinn Merkel photo
[
one more of elcap
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 17, 2012 - 03:10am PT
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We decided to go back to Pee Pee Pillar and Ais gave me the little shove I needed to lead it.
WTF? You channeling me or something, Mike? Pee Pee Pillar was the first 5.10 I led in the Valley. Might even be the first 5.10 I led anywhere.
That was about the time of the last ice age, though, when EBs were the hot new shoe, Whillans harnesses were state of the art, and hexcentric chocks were amazing new pro. And since I'm about half your height, that means it was twice as hard...
Now get back out there in the morning and finish the Central Pillar. Or the East Butt.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 17, 2012 - 03:28am PT
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Now get back out there in the morning and finish the Central Pillar. Or the East Butt.
yea what Ghost said!!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 17, 2012 - 07:22am PT
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You should be getting up just about now. You will be the first in line at CPF, then you can fly. Don't stop to take pics (we've all seen the first section) until the sun comes. Forget us, enjoy the climb.
By the way, that Pano option is sicko! It's not natural.
But neither is getting up at 4 am in Camp 4. It's too alpine.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2012 - 10:20am PT
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Couldn't resist checking this morning. Middle is still on the list but serenity sons is the plan for the day. Somewhat early start...
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 17, 2012 - 10:43am PT
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Tell Relic he isn't allowed to bail anymore!
From what I understand, Mike might have a bit of trouble on the Harding Slot if he did AMan.
Jealous of you guys.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Oct 17, 2012 - 10:45am PT
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Don't know how long u guys are here, but if you wanna check out shuteye, hit me up.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
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Mouse- Thanks. We did a lot more climbing today and the only photos I took were from the belay.
Silver- Not a soul there today. Arches was busy, Dan did that link up the other day and said it was awesome besides having to pass 6 parties on Royal Arches... It's on the list for sure...
Justin- I would love to but Relic wants to go boulder in Bishop so I don't think it's gonna happen, but I'll keep you in the loop.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 17, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
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Ya sorry for bailing on Central Pillar Nathan. Climbing with 3 people, one normal seventy metre, and two half ropes sucked balls beyond belief.
We got on Serenity Crack/Sons of Yesterday this morning. Got up earlyish to beat the sun but not early enough apparently. The whole thing was cooking hot by the time I started leading the first scary pitch. By the time I was able to get my first piece in about 35 feet up, I had buckets of sweat blinding my eyes. Jah I'm whining about one of the best climbs in the valley, but I think there was a reason we were the only ones on it today. It is too freaking hot!
We did one of the crack pitches on Sons, then I had to make us rap off due to heat exhaustion. :(
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Oct 17, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
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Never had a bad time in Bishop, love that place. Enjoying your photos and look forward to more, have a great rest of your trip Mike and Relic.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 18, 2012 - 12:29am PT
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Pee pee pillar was my first valley .10 lead as well. Fancy ain't it.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 18, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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When you guys go to Bishop be sure to check out the Hot Springs at Hot Creek and beyond. Ask some locals in Mammoth Lakes where they are.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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We got a pretty early start this morning..... Then we forgot the tag line..... Fortunately it was a short drive down one of the only two way roads in the valley that I've seen so far... like Relic said it was pretty darn warm...
After he almost sent the first pitch, I sent the second via the 10b traverse move and brought him up.
The start of p3
Knob at the belay
Crux of p3 (Taken on rappel)
Close up of the pin scars
Valley Pano
We chilled and Rehydrated at the base of the tree on sunset ledge and I think the adrenaline was going pretty good at that point because I felt alright still..
Relic took us up to the 5.6 anchor on Sons of Yesterday and and I sent the 10a pitch. I felt really good today and cleaned everything but the 3rd pitch crux of serenity crack.
Couple pics of Relic dying on sons.
3rd pitch of sons
Relic wasn't very stoked when I took this Pano
We parked at the Awanhnee Hotel so after we went to get some water and chilled on the back patio
We met a very brave squirrel.
Then we went to currie and showered for the first time this trip ;) So yes, there are still dirtbags in camp 4 ;)
Touron rest day tomorrow...
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 18, 2012 - 01:04am PT
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Turn at the green church... I been there Wayno. Can't wait to hit it again!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 18, 2012 - 02:42am PT
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You guys could put the hurts to Half Dome. The crux is the hike, according to Daryl.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 18, 2012 - 03:05am PT
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Yeah, just how is the young padawan getting along? The Force is strong in that one.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 18, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
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WOOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!!!!
Thanks all for the stoke.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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where the hell is Luke?? Is he still wall livin' on the Muir?
Let us know!