Going back to Cali!


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Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 14, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
We are just chilling in Curry Village, poaching the interwebs and drinking pretty ok beers. Aislinn and I both noticed our sinuses got totally congested. Is this the onset of the Hanta? Are we dying? Should we call SAR?

We had a super lazy day today with barely any climbing. Luke onsighted Bummer, that was cool, while Mike sent Jamcrack as his first climb in the Valley. So we did a few there, left, ate too much, layed bloated under Midnight Lightning, gave it a pathetic go, failed hard, then humped some loads for Luke and Doug for their Muir Wall climb starting early tomorrow.


Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 15, 2012 - 12:15am PT
Whatever you do don't netipot them sinuses with river water. You could get the brain eating amoeba and die.



Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 15, 2012 - 12:36am PT
Just arrived Saturday for this light.

The Hand of Aislinn and Luke

After humping loads for Luke
Captain...or Skully

Oct 15, 2012 - 12:40am PT
That Dude will rock the Muir Wall! And love doing it.

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 15, 2012 - 12:57am PT
I am kinda curious what Luke's plans are for the Muir. Is he going to fix any, or just go? How many days does he plan on?

Kid, whatever you do, take lots of water. I know it weighs but your kidneys will love you. I have gout now and I'm sure that running out of water on two walls contributed to the situation. It really sucks.

Best thread on the Taco right now. Live Upfull you hosers.
Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2012 - 01:04am PT
So the morning started off slowly.... I woke up three times last night to an empty thermarest. I blew it up each time, and awoke each time flat on the ground... Relic got the car keys from me at 6 am so we could actually get a parking spot.

When I awoke at 8 he was second in line. We had a late start and I got a chance to introduce myself to Jesse at Sunday morning climbers coffee.

Canuck camp

We got a Squamish start today about noon.. We were all pretty lazy this morning and were content to chill and get organized. We wandered over to sunnyside slabs because Relic thought I deserved the same Yosemite intiation that he was treated to.

On the way we passed by what is supposed to be Yosemite falls.

We got on Jam Crack 5.9 after a short wait and Luke got on Bummer 10c. He onsighted it
As I was putting up jam crack. It went pretty well. The bottom was pretty polished but the foot jams were exactly the same as at home and the jams were solid. I linked the first pitch into the second and placed my last cam that would fit right before the top. It was pretty warm but not overly so and was immediately in love with Yosemite granite.

No pics of my lead or Luke's but I did get a few when Ais stepped up to the plate

She sent the first pitch and skipped the second. By this time another party had showed up and we were all hot and hungry so we sauntered back to Camp Four.

We had some lunch and while digesting were debating what to do with the afternoon. Luke wanted us to help him hump a load up to the muir wall. I kinda wanted to climb more but was pretty lazy and Relic wanted to boulder.

There was a session going on at midnight lightning so Relic went over to check it out and I joined him soon after.

I convinced him to give it a burn but he didn't get far, and was pretty disappointed with himself for not being able to remember the beta Kauk has dropped on him years ago.

Then Doug got back and we took some gear up to the base of El Cap



Cool trees

Luke hanging the gear at the base of Muir wall

Alpenglow on El Capitan

Gotta go! Peace!

Edit fixed dry Yosemite falls pics...
Captain...or Skully

Oct 15, 2012 - 01:08am PT

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:09am PT
Cool pictures...I'm jonesing for a valley trip. Tfpu

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:27am PT
Today we had torrential rains with many roads closed around Vancouver as if Mother Nature was making up for our 2 1/2 month Cali dry spell. Perfect timing jumping on the Ark to Cali, Mike.
All of us armchair climbers are living through you and your thread vicariously as if it was our first trip. So go get er done and post LOTS of pics as climbing porn is the next best thing after the real thing.
As far as climbs I like the long routes so you get the awesome views to go with the climbing then take rest days at the smaller crags.The first climb I did upon arrival was East ridge of Middle Cathedral rock,perfect intro to Yosemite with that little bump across the valley staring you in the face the whole time.
Oh and by the way I'm soo jealous.

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:28am PT
Digging the ongoing pics and commentary. It is a cool style. The color of the October sun really comes through in those El Cap shots. It brings back some sweet memories. I'm looking forward to the next installment.

edit- Hairyhotdog sums it up pretty well. Get to the Rim at least once.


A long way from where I started
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:53am PT
You Seattle and Vancouver dweebs can only look on jealously as the boys soak up the sun. And I'm soaking up the sun, too. But unfortunately it is in a part of the world flatter than piss on a plate, so I'm just as jealous.

And what Harry said about Middle. Get over there and get on something. East Buttress. Central Pillar. I'm no Yosemite Hero, but in the few pilgrimages I've made, climbing on Middle has been what left me with the best memories.

Oct 15, 2012 - 01:54am PT
Crush that shlt Luke!


Trad climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
I pretty much hate you all right now. That first pic you put up of the Valley Mike was amazing, and settled it for me. Next year, around this time, I'm going. Book your time off now boys, cause it's going down.
Have fun. Don't die.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 15, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
Hopefully the midday TR will be along soon.

You guys should all come to the FaceLift next year, and stay afterward for some climbing. Course, you can get in some climbing during the FaceLift, especially if connected to some cleanup or a history project...

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 15, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
Don't feed the raccoons Mike !!!


Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 16, 2012 - 01:03am PT
First pitch of Salathé Wall

15 mins after I took this, a tv sized rock came screaming down at us, missed us by metres. Learned not to climb under a million parties on the Captain.

We will hit middle cathedral tomorrow. Central pillar and east butt of middle are awesome I agree!
Captain...or Skully

Oct 16, 2012 - 01:11am PT
If your routefinding is good, hit The Flakes. Seriously cool route.
It's on Middle.
Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2012 - 03:45am PT
Big Mike here getting spendy posting live from fireside via 4g. My Currie time was somewhat productive tonight but slow and posting on an iPhone ain't easy and can be very frustrating.....

I had a reply for everyone but alas it was lost in a netherworld of 1's and 0's when they cut the wifi. Suffice to say getting to the rim is going to happen sooner than later and Nate you should be here.

The plan for the day was to support Luke and head up to the base of the captain for a little cragging.

First though we wandered over to the bridge to meet Tom and see if we could pick out the boys.

Tom at work.

We started off on Pine Line 5.7 and I led it so I could set up a rope to take pics of Aislinn. I found it pretty darn slippery at the bottom but it took good small gear and my toes fit in the pin scars pretty good so I found it pretty secure..

I'm still getting used to Yosemite granite so I placed more than I should have probably but still fired up it pretty quick. I brought Relic up and we set up a quick rappel so I could get a few shots of Aislinn

Aislinn fires in the pro on Pine Line 5.7

Getting er done...

After we went over to Salathe p1 which was just too good to pass up.
Relic ropegunned it for me and took a decent whip trying to figure out my rack. He got it done though and I cleaned it but with much effort. Amazing pitch!!!!

I lowered Relic and fixed the rope so I could take pics and they Aislinn and dan could rap off after.

Dan on p1 Salathe wall

Dan ended up being our fourth for today and we weren't even looking for one... We ran into him at Currie last night after we missed the last bus.

I just stuck out my thumb for the first car and he stopped, but said he was going to Yellow Pines so we let him go. 20 m down the road he turned around and came back to say that if we could find him a partner for tomorrow he would give us a ride.

Not wanting to walk or really have a third if we could avoid it, we told him he could climb with Aislinn. ;)

Aislinn following Dan up Salathe.

(I hope this is right I forgot to lablw this one when I copied links)

Moments after this photo was taken we heard a cry of "Rock!" and I looked up to assess the situation. What I saw next was one of my scariest ever rockclimbing experiences ever.

A large block was heading straight for us as Relic and I ran for cover, (His was much better than mine).

I heard a whizzzzzz! And saw a what I thought to be a basketball size rock falling at terminal velocity land just meters left of Aislinn and pulverize into one million little pieces. The blast radius completely missed Ais and I was showered in granite dust.

After that we were all pretty rattled but Ais tried to finish up so they could get outta there. We heard another rock cry but didn't see one and that was enough for Ais to ask Dan to drop her which he did very expediently.

We moved all our stuff under a small overhang and didn't really want to put ourselves in the line of fire after that one.....

We waited for Dan to get off the corner which kinda sucked cause he had to pull all the gear. He made it down safe and sound and we were all left without a scratch on us, but a much better respect for the stone and all it's inherent dangers.

I truly do understand the phrase "Yer gonna die!!!" now and Bruce was right I am an idiot for humping loads with no helmet yesterday, although a helmet would have made no difference today in a direct hit situation...

After that Dan told me he needed to get safe to wash his brain of that horrible image. We went to talk to Luke who wasn't going to be hauling for some time and therefore no longer needed us to take his extra haul lines down.

We had quite enough of the base of the captain by that point and decided to head back to the meadows for a meeting...

Dan mentioned something about it being awhile since his last safety meeting and when I asked how long he replied "since 95!". I guess he was a bit spooked, he told me he truly thought Ais was going to die. We were all quite happy to be still present on this earth at that point and were very content to chill in the meadow.

The view was nothing less than stunning

El Capitain

I Really love this new pano option on my iPhone!!!

270 degree pano of view from the meadow.

Before dinner we went bouldering for a bit over by the Swan Slabs

Relic on some boulder... (Just kidding, don't remember the name right now)

I did it!! Wow. It's waaay past my bedtime!


Ice climber
Oct 16, 2012 - 09:31am PT
Mike is Luke on the Muir?

He e mailed me and asked me what route he should do,and I told him the Muir.

A great way to see a lot of the big rock.

If Luke and partner are on the Muir right on enjoy it and by far one of the best climbs I did on the big rock. Luke if you read this take the 10d flare chimney about same elevation as great roof. Roman chimneys will be a cake walk after that pitch.

Enjoy Mike wish I could come and visit in the ditch it's just so awesome there right now and yeah the pano is a sick feature on the phone yeah.


Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Oct 16, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
GO Go Go!
Luke and Doug on El Cap yesterday
Luke and Doug on El Cap yesterday
Credit: Tom Evans, El Cap report
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