Going back to Cali!

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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 6, 2012 - 02:20am PT
We booked our tickets yesterday! So STOKED!!



The plan is to go to Yosemite... It will be my first time in the valley. So I was wondering what the locals would say shouldn't be missed for a first timer?

I'm a 10+ leader here in Squamish, which translates to about 5.9 down there from what I hear. So if you were me what would you put on your ticklist? What about eats? Camping if camp 4 is a nightmare?

To take a page from Jeremy's book, WOO HOO!!! So STOKED!!!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:23am PT
Do not say Cali after the plane lands
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:37am PT
Hey BigM
I love that video. Welcome to California don't forget to pay your visitors tax.
The stuff is bigger than it looks. Start out small and see how you fare
Try Reed's pinnacle. my favorite 5.9 is the Steck-Salathe. It's got everything!
Enjoy! Leave no trace.

Jus Recomend'in
BB
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:39am PT
Jon Beck offers some damn good advice. Heed it.

DMT
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:52am PT
Forget the valley, I would take advantage of the high country still being open.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:53am PT
It's hard to beat the standard recommended climbs Sure they can be crowded but try for off times, and go to an area (manure pile, 5 open books, church bowl) with a couple options and do the one with the least/no people on it.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/yosemite.html (Good climbs for your first week in Yosemite).

Nutcracker is a must just for the history.

Royal Arches is also historical. Lots of easy pitches. Perhaps a good warm up for you.

Commitment is great, but as mentioned above just go to 5 open books and jump on what's open.

Snake Dike is a long hike for 8 easy/moderate pitches but it's incredibly fun and the summit of half dome is one of the most amazing places on the planet.

East Buttress of Middle Cathedral isn't on that list but should be.

If the falls are going do the easy quick walks to Bridaveil and Lower Yosemite on a rest day or afternoon. Take pics at tunnel view and when you are up there walk to the top of the Rostrum and peak over the edge.

You must walk to the base of El Cap! And maybe do some of the fun single pitch base climbs (e.g. La Cosita left 5.7, Little John Right 5.8).
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:57am PT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udRFQOsrjpU
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Oct 6, 2012 - 03:34am PT
PTPP is looking for a PARTNER!


:)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 6, 2012 - 03:41am PT
+1 what beotch said. Head up to Tuolumne one day & do cathedral peak, then go drink a beer in the meadows. Seriously.

I'm stoked for you guys, you are gonna be blown away. If u can get Relic away from the boulders in C4 that is :-)


Heard Disneyland is pretty sweet too.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 6, 2012 - 03:47am PT
Hey you Valley locals, give these guys the love. I have met them , they are real, they deserve a good time. Show them our graciousness and you will be rewarded. Besides, they climb, and can get it done if it need be.

Peace, out.

Wayno.

Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Oct 6, 2012 - 09:18am PT
^^^Yup,what Jon Beck said as well as what RyanD said.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 6, 2012 - 09:40am PT
Mike do the meadows one day do Eichorn pinnacle not that choss pile cathedral. Way better.

Do OZ , and South Crack to end yer day.

Then go send the Nose.

All,day crag spot if the temps are in the 70s well the Cookie of course Pat n Jack super slacker highway, Do the DNB. Higher spire,and Braille book same day.

If you want to master the Roman Chimneys well see ya at the base of Steck Salathe.

End yer trip with fish crack n a trip up,the rostrum.

Call it Cali we,do its our way of reminding those d#@&%e nozzles in the end they are just a bunch of Cali poseurs.

Just a reminder we drive on the right side of the road here. ;)
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 6, 2012 - 10:12am PT
Mike, this is a quick list off the top of my head. There's not a lot of bad climbing in the Valley, so don't stick to what's only in the "selects" type guide books.

- Bishop's
- Sunnyside Jamcrack
- Bummer
- lazy Bum
- East Butress of MCR
- NE Butress of HCR
- Higher Cathedral Spire
- Lower Cathedral Spire
- Central Pillar of Frenzy
- Steck - Salathe
- Royal Arches
- Braille Book
- Serenity / Sons of Yesterday
- Bev's Tower
- Outer Limits
- Wheat Thin
- Catchy
- Base of El Cap free routes
- New Diversions
- Arch Rock 5.10's

Tuolumne

- North Face of Fairview
- Cathedral Peak
- Hobbit Book (runout 5.7 part)
- Tenaya Peak



Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 6, 2012 - 10:58am PT
Coming to Yosemite for the first time and NOT going to the Valley would be dumb on a grand scale. The Meadows is cool and all that but there is only one Yosemite in all the world. There are lots and lots of knobby slabs lying about, elsewhere. Plus its cold at night up there and camping is problematic.

Do Camp 4. Climb the Valley classics, which ever routes you choose, you'll be in The Vally. Ahhhhh AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

DMT
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:00am PT
It's "Kali" and watch out for the wolves....
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:05am PT
When are u coming and for how long?

If its November and 120 to the meadows is open I'd say spend a day or two in the meadows (fiarview dome RR)and the rest in the valley.

Another rest day activity see the big trees, wawona if u have time, check out glacier point on the way there. With less time check the smaller grove off 120.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:21am PT
I'm too scared to go now. I think I'll send my cat on the plane with you and I'll go Sasquatch hunting with Luke.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:36am PT
What ever you do spend as little time on the approach as possible. Manure Pile and Cookie Cliff have the quickest approaches for my money. Have fun and do as much climbing as your body will absorb.

Cheers


http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-The-Cookie-Cliff-Outer-Limits

Avg time to climb route: 1 hour
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 20 minutes
Number of pitches: 1
Height of route: 200'
Overview
Every 5.10 climber must do this route. Yosemite Climber called Outer Limits "perhaps the most sought after two-pitch climb in Yosemite." The route starts with what appears to be a lieback flake, but is actually a pumpy hand and fist crack. Down low is the technical crux, but it is the steep and pumpy jams up high that stymie most people. It is hard to resist setting a toprope on the first pitch and doing multiple laps. Beware of the polished rock in the first 30 feet.



http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-The-Cookie-Cliff-Meat-Grinder

Avg time to climb route: 2 hours
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 20 minutes
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 270'
Overview
This route is sustained at 5.9. The first pitch features a mixture of hand and chimney moves that provide a preview of challenges to come. The second pitch has the two characteristics of a classic Yosemite crack pitch: burly and sustained. This pitch involves a variety of strenuous stems and jams with wide protection. The last pitch is rarely climbed.


http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-The-Cookie-Cliff-Beverlys-Tower

Avg time to climb route: 30 minutes
Approach time: 10 minutes
Descent time: 15 minutes
Number of pitches: 1
Height of route: 100'
Overview
The scene of one death, the first 20 feet of this stout 5.10a are difficult to protect. Climb the arête past thin protection and move right into the right-facing corner. Lieback and stem the corner to an interesting overhanging stem box. Hand and thin hand jamming past the overhang leads to the bolted anchor. Continue above and right to gain the Wheat Thin belay ledge.


MudPuppy

Trad climber
Gliese 581 g
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:38am PT
Very first time in the Valley we were lost and overwhelmed, didn't know what to do. First morning we were waiting in line for a campsite in C4, and Chouinard was waiting in line in front of us. He heard us talking about what to do, and offered up some advice for an easy introduction to Valley climbing:

1. Nutcracker
2. Manure Pile
3. Sunnyside Jam Crack
4. Royal Arches
5. Fairview Dome in Tuolumne Meadows.

We "knocked those bastards off", and felt Sh%t on top of the world. I was 19. At that point, for a kid from the east coast, running into Chouinard at C4 was probably the closest thing I've had to a religious conversion.

He was so helpful, and welcoming, and unassuming. He wasn't trying to prove anything.
this just in

climber
north fork
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:43am PT
Definitely go to the Valley. Moby dick at El Cap base, it's not 5.9 but you got it. If you wanna drive an hour plus south I could show you Shuteye or the southern yosemite area. Great camping, unique climbing, and no crowds. You guys will have a blast and I look forward to your photos.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 6, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
Steck salathe!!!! Mike we needs do that
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 6, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
Beware of the TOOLs.... much meaner and looking to kill you, not at all like the RCMP.

And as I always tell folks "if you only have time for one climb in the Valley do"

Central Pillar of Frenzy.

Enjoy yourself.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Oct 6, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
Definitely go to the Valley. Moby dick at El Cap base, it's not 5.9 but you got it. If you wanna drive an hour plus south I could show you Shuteye or the southern yosemite area. Great camping, unique climbing, and no crowds. You guys will have a blast and I look forward to your photos.

Take him up on his offer. I guarantee you WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED. Yes, go see the Valley, but the climbing in SoYo is world class. And yes, you need someone to show you where everything is. It's a climbers paradise.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
Wow! Thanks guys! I've been singing that song for days, so I thought it would be appropriate for a thread title as well. I promise not to say Cali when I get off the plane. ;) We are coming next weekend so it sounds like at least a couple days in the meadow might be in order.

Justin- Shuteye sounds cool too! With so much to do obviously we won't have time for everything but I would like to meet up at some point if possible.
Maybe we can fit it in.

Hey Dwaine- You gonna be anywhere near the ditch when you are working in the sunshine state?

Steck Salathe eh? I've been warned that my 6'7 carcass might not fit through the narrows....

What no You're gonna die yet? ;)
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
Hey Mike, I don't know how strong a leader Relic is but I'll bet you could make it up the Regular NW face of Half Dome if the weather holds. You are a better climber than I was when I first pulled it off. Such a great route.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
Have fun, Mike! Tuolumne is awesome. A must visit. The ditch is cool too.

Really try to hook up with a SoYo trip.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
While in the Valley for the first time, don't forget to take the time after climbing to be a tourist -

go see the Ahwahnee, it's beautiful
go to the Visitor's Center, the Museum and the Ansel Adams Gallery in Yosemite Village
have a drink in the Mountain Room Bar and enjoy the great Glen Denny photos
splitter

Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
Yer gonna love Cali, bro...

Cuz "It's all good, from Diego to the Bay!"
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
Thanks bluey. I'm stoked!

RNWF eh? Hmm... Interesting.... I asked relic if we were going to do any bivys, and he said "not on purpose!"

Thanks Splitter! I'm enjoying the love already!
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
Lembert Dome !!!!!!!









and YER GONNA DIE!!!!!!!!



_JR
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
Thanks Phylp! My buddy Kieran was talking about how amazing Ansel's work is, so definitely pumped to check it out!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Oct 6, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
"Hey Dwaine- You gonna be anywhere near the ditch when you are working in the sunshine state?"






Not near the DITCH but I am near Joshua Tree National Monument.

760-780-8433


Cosmic

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
Hey Jingy, thanks for the cookie reco! Looks sick! Nutcracker looks rad too, I wanted to do snake dyke, but I think it might kill poor relic just getting up there! ;)

Cool cosmic. If we make it out that way I'll give you a ring!

Thanks JR, just didn't feel a proper thread without the standard taco greeting.

Just in case y'all are wondering what I'm doing online when I should be out climbing, I'm at my parents for the weekend for canuck thanksgiving...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 6, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
Moby dick for sure, one of the few pitches Ive done in the ditch. My partner was epic'ing up there & losing his shlt while I was yelling & throwing rocks at a bear who was trying to steal the beer bag. Good thing for grigris. Very memorable experience although I don't remember much about the climbing, I think it was a stiff 5.9 but super fun jamming. Plus it's on el cap so yea you'll be badass.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 6, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
Jon Beck offers some damn good advice. Heed it.

Ah, Californians don't care, they're too busy being awesome to hear what you call their state. I spent a good 30 years there, so I speak from experience ;).

Anybody mention Jam Crack? Two good pitches 5.7 to 5.9 and then you can TR two fun 5.10+ climbs. Not very epic, but decent cragging.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 12:45am PT
What is "THE" valley guide?? and don't say Supertopo free climbs because I've been looking at it, and although it is interesting and has lots of useful info, it isn't quite up to Squamish standards... The descriptions in our books are awesome, pitch for pitch... Anything like that??
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 7, 2012 - 12:50am PT
Check out the Roper guidebook.



DMT
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 12:56am PT

Dingus- Hmm... might be too late to get a book off the internet... anyone have one locally they want to part with???
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Oct 7, 2012 - 12:58am PT
DM's snickering when he offered The Roper Guide...lol! It's a classic though!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 01:08am PT
I figured.... looks cool though, i would love to have and peruse it... i can actually get one for a decent price but it won't arrive soon enough..... no wonder you guys are always so impressed about our guidebooks!!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:11am PT
Yay I was just fukin with ya Big Mike, sorry about that. The newest guide I have is the Reid guide with Daniella on the cover, on The Kids retrobolted route. Probably not up to Squamish standards but can't say I know - never so much as glanced at the Squamish guide.

Cheers dude

DMT
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 01:13am PT
Hey Dingus, you gonna be on a plane somewhere next weekend? Would love to go for a beer with ya..
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:32am PT
Don't refer to San Francisco as Frisco either. That's way worse than saying Cali.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:42am PT
Yeah, it's San Franburg to those without pride.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 7, 2012 - 02:02am PT
Arrowhead Arete. But I sed that arrreadddy :-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 02:23am PT
Tami looks cool.. bit of a hike tho.. ;)

Did this suddenly turn into the "slang not to use thread"?
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 7, 2012 - 02:39am PT
For the hour it takes to scramble up Gunsight and look at the top of Bridalveil Falls is a good return on your investment.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 02:40am PT






Point taken Biotch. Thanks
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Oct 7, 2012 - 03:13am PT
Hey, Mike, are you coming in next weekend? I have the Roper "green" Guide you can borrow.

You can stop by for beers, and I may just let you spend the night. I'm in Santa Clara, near San Jose Intl Airport.

Bottom line? Have some fun!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 7, 2012 - 04:06am PT
Food tip while traveling in k k kali: taco trucks.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 7, 2012 - 10:34am PT
Pretty sure next weekend's spoken for Big Mike but if something breaks loose, who knows?

DMT
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:54am PT
+1 what Wayno said.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
Dingus- We will be around till the 24th... When I'm referring to Squamish descriptions this is what I'm talking about. This is a classic route right by the Chief campground.

A noteworthy route cruises up the wall between Bulletheads
North and the left end of Campground Wall.

Liquid Gold 5.11a TOP 100
This climb is outstanding. The crack that splits the final
wall may be one of the best at the grade in Squamish.
Scramble five metres up from the cliffbase trail to start.

Pitch 1 (5.10d, 40 m) Climb a shallow, left-facing corner
which eventually arches left. When a bolt appears, head
for it and finger traverse a dyke rightward. Easy but
runout moves lead to a corner on the right. Gear belay.

Pitch 2 (5.11a, 20 m) Follow a corner which jogs left
around roofs. One tough move. Belay below a chimney.

Pitch 3 (5.10c, 30 m) Work into the chimney, which narrows
to offwidth size. Good cracks lead to a big ledge.

Pitch 4 (5.11a, 50 m) Stellar hand and finger cracks
lead up the wall. A couple of belay options are possible
with the best located at 50 metres where the angle eases.
Alternatively, climb a 70-metre super pitch. Classic.

Pitch 5 (5.10b, 20 m) Finish up the crack above. Either
descend (hike and rappel) via the Mañana Slab in Bulletheads
South or hike to the top of Wild Turkey, find an
anchor and make three double-rope raps to the ground.
Double rack to 4.5" FA Gordie Smaill, Mike Wisnicki; 1969; FFA
Derek Flett, Andrew Boyd, 2010.

Bluey!!! Thanks for the offer buddy but we are flying into Sacramento so I think we will get supplies and find somewhere to crash outside the park for the night... Relic says he has the Reid guide to between that and cmac's we should be able to get it done... Like Tami says "We don't need no stinkin' guidebooks!" (Not true.... I like to know where I'm going...)


MMMM Taco trucks.... MMMM In-and-Out Burger!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
You should take the In-N-Out challenge on the drive down the 101. Double Double animal style at every In-N-Out you pass.

I tried once from Truckee to SF, and failed.

Have fun man, it's the best time of year to be in the Valley in my opinion. They turned off the waterfalls but oh well. I'll be stoked to see some shots, you've got a good eye.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 04:38pm PT
Haha... In-and-Out challenge.... Were you still able to climb after that?? :) Thanks for the compliment Brandon it's something I've always had, my dad has it too so I guess the apple doesn't fall far from the tree... My challenge has always been getting image to look like it did in real life!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Oct 7, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
In-And-Out urge, good eats, just avoid looking at the bottum of the cups.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
What's up with the cups? Mice??
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Oct 7, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
[url="http http://www.snopes.com/business/alliance/inandout.asp ://"]http http://www.snopes.com/business/alliance/inandout.asp ://[/url]
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
I think I can deal with a bit more propaganda... ;)
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Oct 7, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
To be honest In and Out is a pretty good employer, they pay more than any other fast food. It is the only socal chain where you will see mostly teenagers working
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Oct 7, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
Them and Chick-fil-A; CfA never open on the Lords Day, imagine that.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Oct 7, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
To be honest In and Out is a pretty good employer, they pay more than any other fast food. It is the only socal chain where you will see mostly teenagers working


With outstanding attitudes every time I've gone, never forgetting to supply the little ones with stickers.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
In n Out also has the whitest staff on earth. Go to the one in Hayward and somehow 95% of the staff consists of white teenagers.

As far as fast food goes, Carl's Jr has better burgers anyways. 5 guys even better and is probably going to knock christan burger off it's pedestal in CA.


Oh climbing.... yeah right... Tons of stuff in Yosemite no doubt but there is good stuff outside the park, all the stuff south of Yosemite, foothills stuff, Sonora Pass, Cal Domes, Tahoe, east side of the Sierra and on and on.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
Thanks for the 5 guys reco berg... I'll check it out..
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Oct 8, 2012 - 12:21am PT
Umm, you want a real burger, stop at Old Priest Station on the way up 120 and get a grass fed delicacy!

Take hwy 4 thru copperopolis to shave some time off the drive from sac. And of course take the Old Priest rd shortcut on 120 and the station restaurant is at the top.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 8, 2012 - 12:33am PT
I'm grass fed, but you can't eat my beef. That's reserved for the lady.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 12:36am PT
Thanks for the beta Fet..... Jebus, i'm not interested in your beef... that's for sure ;)
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 8, 2012 - 12:43am PT
Mike, check your mail.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 8, 2012 - 02:09am PT
Why has no one mentioned to do Five and Dime? Huh?????? That thing is killer.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 8, 2012 - 02:21am PT
Knob Job. Cascade Falls.
Chaz

Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
Oct 8, 2012 - 02:35am PT
"In n Out also has the whitest staff on earth. Go to the one in Hayward and somehow 95% of the staff consists of white teenagers."

The one in San Bernardino is staffed mostly with Mexicans.

My guess is their staff reflects the community.
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Oct 8, 2012 - 05:27am PT
Big Mike is coming to The Valley for his first visit, and this is the best beta you can give?

During my first trip up to "Squeemish" I overheard a pair of locals discussing their own upcoming 1st Valley trip:

"El Capitan," one gravely described to her partner, "is their Grand Wall."

Reid's Guide will do. There's long routes, short ones; easy and desperate. If this were my 1st trip to The Valley, and I was comfortable on-sighting 5.9 fingers and hands, I gun up the first 5 pitches of Central Pillar of Middle Cathedral, and I'd show before 9am, so as not to follow another party.

If you want to work up to that length, then the Cookie, or Reed's would offer a high selection.

For face and friction, the rock on the south side is more compact than than of the north, which is a bit more decomposed from sun exposure.

Tuolumne, and Southern Yosemite can wait for another time. Autumn is the Valley's premier season.

I understand there are plenty of vacancies over at Curry Village - hell, now I'm getting into the act!
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Oct 8, 2012 - 07:41am PT
Nutcracker for sure, Rixon's Pinnacle, Central Pillar of Frenzy, OMGoodness!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Oct 8, 2012 - 10:52am PT
+1 Fet's suggestion

Sunset, on the deck, at Priest Station Cafe after a day on the rock

Don't forget to mention Supertopo, the beverage is free with a meal.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 8, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
LUNCHTIME AT PRIEST STATION CAFE ON THE WAY THERE!!!!!!!

SO REALLY SHOULD WE TAKE THAT OLE PRIEST RD. SHORTCUT?

ARE WE GONNA DIEEEEE?
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Oct 8, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
Get gas and groceries (I mean beer) then from 99 take Hwy 4 east, in Copperopolis go right on Main St. / O'Byrnes Ferry Rd. At end go left on 120 then a quick right on 120. Or you can take 120 through Oakdale, it's about 15 minutes longer but there's grocery stores and restaurants there.

Yes take Old Priest Grade unless you are in an RV. If you start to get possessed take Old Priest and New Priest and that should clear it up.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Oct 8, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
Or make it at home.
5 Guys is in Las Vegas, heading west.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 8, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
I'm telling you, forget the burgers. Most of those taco buses are run on a totally small scale, independent, authentic, and just plain good, basis. From my standpoint of knowledge of the food industry and human nutrition, Go with the taco trucks. They just don't have big signs on the freeway, you kinda have to look around.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 8, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
Mmmmmmmm, we are only going to the Valley for the burgers for surrrrrrrrre.

BURGERS!!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
Thanks KablaArch!


There will be all kinds of food eating going down i'm sure.. Good thing foodeater won't be joning us,,,, Just kidding GF!!

Relic did you see this?????????? we gotta go!!!!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1941868/Yosemite-Climbing-1955-to-2012-by-Hans-Florine-10-12-12
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 9, 2012 - 02:00am PT
Ummm ya, I did. If we travel back in time Saturday by driving the rental car off the Rostrum we may have a chance to see it.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 02:07am PT
Saturday.. duh... I was stuck on friday.. oops
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2012 - 03:20am PT
Sweet buddy! The stoke is alive! I started getting ready to go today.

I'm supporting California all ready. I bought an iPhone today so's I can take pics from the belays.

Woooooooo Hoooooooo! California here we come!!!!!!!!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Oct 10, 2012 - 03:32am PT
Big Mike'
I head for Calif tomorrow to work for 2 to 3 weeks.
If you make it down to Southern Calif to the, JT area,
be sure to give me a call and maybe we can meet up.
I may not be able to climb but I can buy you a beer or 3.

Apple Valley, where I work is about 70 miles from JT,
But there is a lot of good climbing in the Apple Valley area also.I could even hook you up with a climbing partner and I can take pics.

I will be back in Vegas before Oct 31st for Drs appointment, so you are welcome to stop by Vegas after I get back. I can supply a climbing partner there also.

When I'm in Calif I don't have a computer, so I can only be accessed by cell.

My cell is 760-780-8433

I hope I can meet up wit you while you are down here!!!!


Cosmic
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2012 - 10:59am PT
Cool Cosmic! Have a good trip. If we're anywhere close I'll drop you a line!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 10, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
Oh crap, both kegs blew last night. I still have a few days to get fresh ones. I'm gonna try today to get out early on Friday night. Hopefully I can get home by eight. The stoke abides.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 10, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
You girls and boys have fun, eh? There are several Canadians in Camp 4 at the moment, who can help you get oriented if needed.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 10, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
I think we should be orientated fine when we arrive. The only thing I can think of is that we will be arriving there in the afternoon and probably a bit late to secure a spot in Camp 4.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 10, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
Dude there are so many empty tents just pick one its all good your Canadian you can't get hantavirus.

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 10, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
Well, if you can time your arrival for say 6:00 AM, that's never a bad idea. Unless it's raining, of course, in which case it's easier to get a site, maybe even in the afternoon. You can always stay at Crane Flat the night before, as there is usually space there and it's only 30 minutes to Camp 4. Also, try not to show up on Friday or Saturday mornings - Sundays and Mondays may be best. Do say hello to Pinky, though.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2012 - 05:26pm PT


Dude there are so many empty tents just pick one its all good your Canadian you can't get hantavirus.

Ya because us Canucks are impervious to all known forms of bacteria. ;) hmm so don't show up on Saturday night? It's supposed to rain on friday in the valley so maybe we will find a site......
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 11, 2012 - 01:33am PT
Big Mike and Relic, I will be home Friday night no later than 8 PM. I'll bring home some food from work and the beer will be cold and on tap. Ghost is coming by and he'll probably have some of his fine brews to sample. Maybe Steve G. will come by with some good Valley beta.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 12, 2012 - 01:23am PT
That sounds great!! Man, what did we do to deserve such royal hospitality?!
Looking forward to seeing you guys! We will try to get there not too long after 8:00 maybe. Traffic and borders will make it a bit of a guess.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 12, 2012 - 01:29am PT
It started with Daryl. I'm just returning the hospitality that I got from my two trips to Squamish. It's that Golden Rule thing.

edit- Traffic shouldn't be too bad but I hear it's going to rain tomorrow and since it hasn't rained in a while there will probably be an accident or three.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 03:07am PT
It started with Daryl. I'm just returning the hospitality that I got from my two trips to Squamish. It's that Golden Rule thing.

edit- Traffic shouldn't be too bad but I hear it's going to rain tomorrow and since it hasn't rained in a while there will probably be an accident or three.

Thanks Darryl.... Here I was thinking that it was because I got you out climbing. ;)

Thanks a lot Wayno, it really means the world to us. Hopefully the roads aren't too slick and people take it easy.

T-Minus 36 Hours till California!!!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 12, 2012 - 04:00am PT
No man, you gettin' me on a real climb is special. The Motivator. I'm already thinking of my next trip to Squamish. Yerian will be involved.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 12, 2012 - 08:55am PT
Have fun guys the weather looks great for next week.

Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 12, 2012 - 10:00am PT
After 80 days of sun... Perfect timing to be heading south.

Credit: Relic
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 11:14am PT
Like rats deserting a sinking ship
Bruce Kay

This guy knows his weather!!!
neversummer

Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Oct 12, 2012 - 11:39am PT
Have fun out here...
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 12, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
If you like Exasperator, then cruise Mr Natural.
Start via Apron Jam to get warmed up ;-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
Thanks Neversummer!

Thanks for the route tips Malemute, we'll check em out.

Definetly feels like the ship is sinking around here...
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 12, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
the wink is because Apron Jam is non-trivial. kind of like caboose.
Mr Natural is fun. the crack is straightforward, the crux is about 5 feet of slab just before the bolts.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
I figured as much.... ;) anything else worth doing up there?
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 12, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
don't know what the state of the bolts is nowadays, but you might enjoy a longer slab climb like Lucifers Ledge or Coonyard or Hoppy's Favorite.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
Neither Apron Jam nor Mr Natural is In the supertoprope guide... Better check relic's Reid guide...... I can see the peace arch.... Maybe they'll let us in the states soon??
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 12, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
Mr Natural pics
Apron Jam pic
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
Peace arch pic


Edit: looks sick Malemute! Thanks!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
They let us in!! Suckers!!! ;)
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 12, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
The US may never be the same. Let's hope not, anyway...;-)
Have a Time, ya'll. Grand would be best.
Choose Grand.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 13, 2012 - 08:02am PT
Big Mike, Miguel grande is how it goes here, and Mike's my older bro's name and he's big, too. Howdy to California, the State of Gold, home or the 4.9ers. Defiers of and creators of specious ratings systems. Robbins, Frost, Chongo's illegitimate kid, they all welcome you and hope you can stick around for Oakdayle.

Welco a California.



Climb Peter Pan or you are not a man. Peter H. will not agree.

Repeat: Do not utter the word Cali; in my hearing, at least.

There's a small town on the way into the Valley, several in fact. One in particular may jog your memory.

It's Whatchama, California, but we just call it Whatchamacallit.

If that is too confusing, call me, pm me, or give me the finger of fate on the way through Whatcamacallit.

Then I will be able to help you. Give you a hand clasp in the ether. Send you on your way. I'm here twenty-four hours a day. I mean it, if I can further your voyage, let me know. Otherwise, hope you get where you are going.

El Portal beckons. In Peter Pan the Darkness awaits. Bring wide. Enjoy your ride, Clyde. Might want knee pads on any ow, but you're BIG Mike, so you should know that by now.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 13, 2012 - 10:18am PT
The boys are on their way. Good times.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 10:33am PT
Ya we are!

We're going, going,
To the, to the,
Valley, Valley!!

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 10:53am PT
Thanks for the well wishes gents!

Thanks mouse for your kind offer. If we should need your services, we will call.

We were whisked through tsa and are now waiting to board.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 13, 2012 - 11:00am PT
Good to meet you two. I look forward to seeing you again on your way back and hearing the stories.

brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Oct 13, 2012 - 11:17am PT
oooooOooh nice photo bigMike, is that an iPhoto?? 6.0??? panorama???? of a pad person?????? Now your friends can tell you just how much fun you are really having! haha don't forget to turn it off every now and then.. unplug!!

p.s. i was doin decks the whole time you were dropping off the keys and ya didn't even come find me?!? i had a good bye ladder safety meeting prepped for ya..

take risks!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 11:59am PT
Hey ghost, very nice to meet you last night as well.

I promise I will disconnect but right now how can you beat supertopo at 10000 feet? This certainly wasn't possible the last time I flew... Sorry I didn't say goodbye Kieran but I was late as it was so I just didn't have time! Now stop reading supertopo and go wash some windows dammit! ;)

It was looking a little wet out still at sea-tach......

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
Looking a lot nicer up here!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 13, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
Leaving aside the $64,000 question, which is how to fit Big Mike into an aircraft seat... At nearly two metres tall, that must take some doing.

Anyway, had you simply driven, you'd be there by now. Hee hee.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 13, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
^^^^^^^

And u wouldn't have to rent crashpads- or a car!!


Have fun!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
Not really since we couldn't leave till 5 last night and we would have passed up an opportunity to meet Ghost and his lovely wife.. Not to mention hanging with Wayno. One thing is for sure, my back would be fvcked after 20 hours of driving!!!!

14 bucks a day for the car and relic got his pad on for twenty bucks!!!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
We are already descending!! Say all you want... This is the way to travel, when you're short on time!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
The 64000$ question;




Welcome to sunny Sacramento!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 13, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
Sacratomato.

SF=The City
LA=The Shizzy

Yosemite Yawns. Sun-sight.
Big Mike's here. Who's he got with?
Is it someone dear?

Picture me and I will picture you.--Beefheart

Bienvenidos, amigos.

Don't look around you;
The tacos trucks found you?

Please don't come to California and order chile colorado.

It's chiles, chillies, cheelays, but chili's Texan all the way. Enjoy your stay. Priest Grade* hamburgers are not just awesome. They're cooked to perfection if you tell them Jeff Mathis sent you, via Mouse. Everyone around Groveland seems to know the Reverend, but all the same, don't be surprised if they don't claim knowing him. Some people in California are un-cool. We are having a referendum on that.

*Priest Grade is not a USDA-approved grade for meat. It is, however, one of the most unsettling drives for those with weak traveling genes (car-sick) in the entire state. There are two ways, the left-hand's un-cool. You get to the burgers either way. It's just quicker and more like it going right. UP. THE. HILL. This turn decision comes at Moccasin Crk. Just so you don't lose your lunch before dinner...

Safe drive, stay alive.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
Mouse, my partner in crime is special, but not in the relationship kinda way.....

It's pretty darn special to have a boulderer get off the pebbles and onto the big stone!!

Relic waiting for the car
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
That's the plan Mouse! Priest grade on the way!!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 13, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
He looks like a hamburger, I go bald as well. Keep us posted on where yer at as you gape at the SJ Valley, etc.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 13, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Welcome to California boys.

Don't forget to use sunscreen.

Stock up on fruit and veggies at the stands along the road.

Try the genunie Taco Trucks as well.

Look out for the TOOLS once you get inside the Nat Park (technically not in California anymore)

Please keep us up to date on your travels.



Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2012 - 02:04am PT
Big Mike here live from curry village. Our trip here was uneventful after we got going.... Relic forgot his driver's license in his car in Seattle, so we had change the rental into my name...

So where are all these taco trucks??? We didn't see any on the way.... No In-n-out either... Granted we weren't trying that hard...

Pee stop just outside copperopolis

I like my new red car!!! ;)

We also stopped at priest station cafe but unfortunately didn't save our appetites for burgers. On the way back for sure.. Even if i have to tie relic up to make it happen!!!!




Then after a lot of anticipation, I got my first look at The Valley! All I can say is, WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I get it!!!! Paradise for climbers, just gotta ignore all the bs...



The light on El Cap when we drove in was breathtaking!!!! I wanted to stop in the meadow but we missed the turn off, so settled for a bridge shot instead.
img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8331/8085107307_1881e985bd_c.jpg[/img]


I made up for missing the El Cap shot with this beautiful shot of the Sentinel




Then took the standard Half Dome alpenglow routine....




Luke, Ais and Doug were kind enough to reserve us a spot at the historical camp 4!!!!




CRACK tomorrow!!!!!
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Oct 14, 2012 - 02:12am PT
Sick!!!!! Quite breathtaking the first time huh???? The cool thing is it always seems to have that effect on me no matter how many times I go. Have fun!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 14, 2012 - 02:20am PT
First time I entered Yosemite Valley was after dark on a full moon night. Not much good for pictures, but right off the scale in terms of first impressions.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 14, 2012 - 02:39am PT
Feckin' schweet!

Masha said I was toast last night.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 14, 2012 - 02:41am PT
On the way out of the Park, if you are heading back to SFO, don't go the way you came in, you'll short-change yourselves. Try either the road to Merced, 140, or the one south to Fresno, 41. Depends where you're going next.
If it's the Merced route, there's no missing the tower of the Merced Theater, and that's what you need to find the In n Out on Martin Luther King Way. The theater's at MLK and West Main, which intersects with Hwy 140. It's like a belay station, exactly on the route to SFO. Call me before you get in aand I'll come join you. I'm six blocks from the IO.
And there's a Taco wagon on every fourth corner, so it seems.
Good reportage.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 14, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
Well, it's been twelve hours, and no TR of actual climbing?! What's with that? It's still raining in Vancouver, so let's have some sunshine!

(Although Tom E mentioned something about some Canuckleheads starting the Muir Wall...)
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 14, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
I was wondering the same thing, Anders. I imagine Mike is leading his first pitch in Yosemite at this moment. Any guesses as to what that might be? Something at the base of the Captain?
Erik31

Trad climber
Chicago, IL
Oct 14, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
Yeah I concur on Moby Dick. 5.10A but very solid and pretty much every jamming size into OW. I remember a #5 came in handy on the upper bit. Nice and long, killer valley pitch.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 14, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
Well, it's after dark. Where's the TR? Waah! Waah!

(Hopefully they're not bivouacing on their first night in the Valley.)
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 14, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
They're in the bar Anders. Don't you remember your first time in the valley?
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Oct 14, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
I really like this running trip report style. So much easier to digest than an all-in-one TR.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
Briham- Everytime I go through Squamish I get the same feeling but I had been anticipating this day for some years so it was definitely extra special....

Wayno- I bet man! Thanks again for everything!!!! It made things so smooth!!! Bros for life!!!!

Mouse, if we make it south we will for sure look you up!! Relic is itching to get to Bishop so we might yet..

MH- No 3G down here so no on the spot reporting unless I want to pay 1$ per megabyte which is about 2 pics so nightly reports is the best you can hope for..,

Malemute is close we are at the curry lounge eating pizza deck, drinking beer and spraying on the Internet.

Phylp- Thanks I'm a big fan of Hudon's live threads and I think it adds a little something..

Working on pics now. Update soon!!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 14, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
We're diggin' you, man. Dig big.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 14, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
We are just chilling in Curry Village, poaching the interwebs and drinking pretty ok beers. Aislinn and I both noticed our sinuses got totally congested. Is this the onset of the Hanta? Are we dying? Should we call SAR?

We had a super lazy day today with barely any climbing. Luke onsighted Bummer, that was cool, while Mike sent Jamcrack as his first climb in the Valley. So we did a few there, left, ate too much, layed bloated under Midnight Lightning, gave it a pathetic go, failed hard, then humped some loads for Luke and Doug for their Muir Wall climb starting early tomorrow.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 15, 2012 - 12:15am PT
Whatever you do don't netipot them sinuses with river water. You could get the brain eating amoeba and die.

http://www.cbc.ca/news/health/story/2012/10/09/brain-eating-amoeba.html

Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 15, 2012 - 12:36am PT
Just arrived Saturday for this light.


The Hand of Aislinn and Luke


After humping loads for Luke
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 15, 2012 - 12:39am PT
That crag behind you - is that Yamnuska? You should put your helmet back on.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 12:40am PT
That Dude will rock the Muir Wall! And love doing it.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 15, 2012 - 12:57am PT
I am kinda curious what Luke's plans are for the Muir. Is he going to fix any, or just go? How many days does he plan on?

Kid, whatever you do, take lots of water. I know it weighs but your kidneys will love you. I have gout now and I'm sure that running out of water on two walls contributed to the situation. It really sucks.

Best thread on the Taco right now. Live Upfull you hosers.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2012 - 01:04am PT
So the morning started off slowly.... I woke up three times last night to an empty thermarest. I blew it up each time, and awoke each time flat on the ground... Relic got the car keys from me at 6 am so we could actually get a parking spot.

When I awoke at 8 he was second in line. We had a late start and I got a chance to introduce myself to Jesse at Sunday morning climbers coffee.


Canuck camp


We got a Squamish start today about noon.. We were all pretty lazy this morning and were content to chill and get organized. We wandered over to sunnyside slabs because Relic thought I deserved the same Yosemite intiation that he was treated to.



On the way we passed by what is supposed to be Yosemite falls.






We got on Jam Crack 5.9 after a short wait and Luke got on Bummer 10c. He onsighted it
As I was putting up jam crack. It went pretty well. The bottom was pretty polished but the foot jams were exactly the same as at home and the jams were solid. I linked the first pitch into the second and placed my last cam that would fit right before the top. It was pretty warm but not overly so and was immediately in love with Yosemite granite.


No pics of my lead or Luke's but I did get a few when Ais stepped up to the plate
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8192/8088859391_ff0b161aaf_c.jpg[/img




She sent the first pitch and skipped the second. By this time another party had showed up and we were all hot and hungry so we sauntered back to Camp Four.




We had some lunch and while digesting were debating what to do with the afternoon. Luke wanted us to help him hump a load up to the muir wall. I kinda wanted to climb more but was pretty lazy and Relic wanted to boulder.

There was a session going on at midnight lightning so Relic went over to check it out and I joined him soon after.




I convinced him to give it a burn but he didn't get far, and was pretty disappointed with himself for not being able to remember the beta Kauk has dropped on him years ago.



Then Doug got back and we took some gear up to the base of El Cap



Wow!!!!!!!!



Amazing!



Cool trees




Luke hanging the gear at the base of Muir wall




Alpenglow on El Capitan



Gotta go! Peace!

Edit fixed dry Yosemite falls pics...
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:08am PT
Sweet.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:09am PT
Cool pictures...I'm jonesing for a valley trip. Tfpu
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:27am PT
Today we had torrential rains with many roads closed around Vancouver as if Mother Nature was making up for our 2 1/2 month Cali dry spell. Perfect timing jumping on the Ark to Cali, Mike.
All of us armchair climbers are living through you and your thread vicariously as if it was our first trip. So go get er done and post LOTS of pics as climbing porn is the next best thing after the real thing.
As far as climbs I like the long routes so you get the awesome views to go with the climbing then take rest days at the smaller crags.The first climb I did upon arrival was East ridge of Middle Cathedral rock,perfect intro to Yosemite with that little bump across the valley staring you in the face the whole time.
Oh and by the way I'm soo jealous.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:28am PT
Digging the ongoing pics and commentary. It is a cool style. The color of the October sun really comes through in those El Cap shots. It brings back some sweet memories. I'm looking forward to the next installment.

edit- Hairyhotdog sums it up pretty well. Get to the Rim at least once.


Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:53am PT
You Seattle and Vancouver dweebs can only look on jealously as the boys soak up the sun. And I'm soaking up the sun, too. But unfortunately it is in a part of the world flatter than piss on a plate, so I'm just as jealous.

And what Harry said about Middle. Get over there and get on something. East Buttress. Central Pillar. I'm no Yosemite Hero, but in the few pilgrimages I've made, climbing on Middle has been what left me with the best memories.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:54am PT
Crush that shlt Luke!


TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 15, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
I pretty much hate you all right now. That first pic you put up of the Valley Mike was amazing, and settled it for me. Next year, around this time, I'm going. Book your time off now boys, cause it's going down.
Have fun. Don't die.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 15, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
Hopefully the midday TR will be along soon.

You guys should all come to the FaceLift next year, and stay afterward for some climbing. Course, you can get in some climbing during the FaceLift, especially if connected to some cleanup or a history project...
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 15, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
Don't feed the raccoons Mike !!!

Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 16, 2012 - 01:03am PT
First pitch of Salathé Wall



15 mins after I took this, a tv sized rock came screaming down at us, missed us by metres. Learned not to climb under a million parties on the Captain.

We will hit middle cathedral tomorrow. Central pillar and east butt of middle are awesome I agree!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 16, 2012 - 01:11am PT
If your routefinding is good, hit The Flakes. Seriously cool route.
It's on Middle.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2012 - 03:45am PT
Big Mike here getting spendy posting live from fireside via 4g. My Currie time was somewhat productive tonight but slow and posting on an iPhone ain't easy and can be very frustrating.....

I had a reply for everyone but alas it was lost in a netherworld of 1's and 0's when they cut the wifi. Suffice to say getting to the rim is going to happen sooner than later and Nate you should be here.

The plan for the day was to support Luke and head up to the base of the captain for a little cragging.

First though we wandered over to the bridge to meet Tom and see if we could pick out the boys.

Tom at work.




We started off on Pine Line 5.7 and I led it so I could set up a rope to take pics of Aislinn. I found it pretty darn slippery at the bottom but it took good small gear and my toes fit in the pin scars pretty good so I found it pretty secure..

I'm still getting used to Yosemite granite so I placed more than I should have probably but still fired up it pretty quick. I brought Relic up and we set up a quick rappel so I could get a few shots of Aislinn

Aislinn fires in the pro on Pine Line 5.7




Getting er done...



After we went over to Salathe p1 which was just too good to pass up.
Relic ropegunned it for me and took a decent whip trying to figure out my rack. He got it done though and I cleaned it but with much effort. Amazing pitch!!!!

I lowered Relic and fixed the rope so I could take pics and they Aislinn and dan could rap off after.

Dan on p1 Salathe wall


Dan ended up being our fourth for today and we weren't even looking for one... We ran into him at Currie last night after we missed the last bus.

I just stuck out my thumb for the first car and he stopped, but said he was going to Yellow Pines so we let him go. 20 m down the road he turned around and came back to say that if we could find him a partner for tomorrow he would give us a ride.

Not wanting to walk or really have a third if we could avoid it, we told him he could climb with Aislinn. ;)

Aislinn following Dan up Salathe.

(I hope this is right I forgot to lablw this one when I copied links)

Moments after this photo was taken we heard a cry of "Rock!" and I looked up to assess the situation. What I saw next was one of my scariest ever rockclimbing experiences ever.

A large block was heading straight for us as Relic and I ran for cover, (His was much better than mine).

I heard a whizzzzzz! And saw a what I thought to be a basketball size rock falling at terminal velocity land just meters left of Aislinn and pulverize into one million little pieces. The blast radius completely missed Ais and I was showered in granite dust.

After that we were all pretty rattled but Ais tried to finish up so they could get outta there. We heard another rock cry but didn't see one and that was enough for Ais to ask Dan to drop her which he did very expediently.

We moved all our stuff under a small overhang and didn't really want to put ourselves in the line of fire after that one.....

We waited for Dan to get off the corner which kinda sucked cause he had to pull all the gear. He made it down safe and sound and we were all left without a scratch on us, but a much better respect for the stone and all it's inherent dangers.

I truly do understand the phrase "Yer gonna die!!!" now and Bruce was right I am an idiot for humping loads with no helmet yesterday, although a helmet would have made no difference today in a direct hit situation...

After that Dan told me he needed to get safe to wash his brain of that horrible image. We went to talk to Luke who wasn't going to be hauling for some time and therefore no longer needed us to take his extra haul lines down.

We had quite enough of the base of the captain by that point and decided to head back to the meadows for a meeting...

Dan mentioned something about it being awhile since his last safety meeting and when I asked how long he replied "since 95!". I guess he was a bit spooked, he told me he truly thought Ais was going to die. We were all quite happy to be still present on this earth at that point and were very content to chill in the meadow.

The view was nothing less than stunning

El Capitain




I Really love this new pano option on my iPhone!!!

270 degree pano of view from the meadow.


Before dinner we went bouldering for a bit over by the Swan Slabs

Relic on some boulder... (Just kidding, don't remember the name right now)



I did it!! Wow. It's waaay past my bedtime!

Peace!
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 16, 2012 - 09:31am PT
Mike is Luke on the Muir?

He e mailed me and asked me what route he should do,and I told him the Muir.

A great way to see a lot of the big rock.

If Luke and partner are on the Muir right on enjoy it and by far one of the best climbs I did on the big rock. Luke if you read this take the 10d flare chimney about same elevation as great roof. Roman chimneys will be a cake walk after that pitch.

Enjoy Mike wish I could come and visit in the ditch it's just so awesome there right now and yeah the pano is a sick feature on the phone yeah.

Peace
silver
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Oct 16, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
GO Go Go!
Luke and Doug on El Cap yesterday
Luke and Doug on El Cap yesterday
Credit: Tom Evans, El Cap report
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 16, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
Looks like the 4th pitch belay down low.

Sweet those guys are going to love it man. A great first route. Nothing to hard every pitch is a moderate with the exception of the 10D OW Flare.

The second to last pitch has this cool lower out penji to a buttress of rock with a 5.8 hand crack splitting it. When you start up the crack and get a view between your legs is just big air and vast amounts of sweeping rock. A view I have not forgotten some 20 years later almost. Yippee for them.

Right on! The upper dihedral is so amazing and clean. The pitches below that are steep.

This is one of the longest routes on the big rock a real day to day grinder but if your fast you can tick them off pretty quick short fixing and hauling hard.

Have fun guys, and Mike Super Slacker Highway at Pat N Jack is a real gem of a climb get to it if you can.



guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 16, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
Keep the reports coming.....

Stuck at the desk....

your fine adventure is good, vicarious, fun....

Go do Bishops, Jam Crack...fun fun
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2012 - 12:53am PT
Silver- Luke is on the Muir yes... They are doing well and were leading a pitch in the dark when we left the meadow...

Ok couple more images i didn't get to post yesterday...

Dan at the base of Pine Line




Dan on the first pitch of Salathe





The valley pano again but bigger.. Blowout those borders!!




Relic bouldering




Aislinn on the same problem
[


Relic Heel Hooking at sunset





Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 17, 2012 - 01:40am PT
Dammit Relic, screw the heel hook, flip the wing and press that mantle out. And btw you don't really need a pad there. %^)
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 17, 2012 - 01:51am PT
Yayaya. I can't mantle this stuff for shite. I get ny long limbs all folded like a pretzel. Bouldering here is harrrrrrrd. Humbling for sure.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2012 - 02:17am PT
Big Mike here coming at you from Dan's computer!!! So sick.. Iphone can suck it as far as typing goes...

Woke up at 9 this morning so my thermarest patch must have done something... Relic was no where to be found so I started organizing gear... The plan for the day was Central Pillar of Frenzy and I was stoked. It was a bit of a late start again....

We finally got up there and there was another party all ready on it, and they weren't moving very quick.


We asked if they were planning to do the whole climb but they weren't sure so we decided to head over to Pee Pee Pillar to warm up. Aislinn wanted to lead the 5.7 and when ais wants to lead something we let her.


Aislinn on p1 Paradise Lost 5.7




Sending




Sent





The other party bailed from Central Pillar so after all climbed it we went over to the base. They were canucks too from toronto. Relic led the first pitch and dragged three ropes, Two halfs and a tagline single. By the time he got to the top and brought me and Ais up he was over it.




I took another valley pano from up there though.. So sick!!




Ais at the crux



Relic wanted to bail and leave me and Ais to finish up, but by the time we got all the ropes untangled I was over it. I always stack my halfs together because it makes for good belays but when you try and take one rope out of the system you're f'ed..


We decided to go back to Pee Pee Pillar and Ais gave me the little shove I needed to lead it.

Aislinn Merkel photo





[






one more of elcap









Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 17, 2012 - 03:10am PT
We decided to go back to Pee Pee Pillar and Ais gave me the little shove I needed to lead it.

WTF? You channeling me or something, Mike? Pee Pee Pillar was the first 5.10 I led in the Valley. Might even be the first 5.10 I led anywhere.

That was about the time of the last ice age, though, when EBs were the hot new shoe, Whillans harnesses were state of the art, and hexcentric chocks were amazing new pro. And since I'm about half your height, that means it was twice as hard...

Now get back out there in the morning and finish the Central Pillar. Or the East Butt.

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 17, 2012 - 03:28am PT



Now get back out there in the morning and finish the Central Pillar. Or the East Butt.



yea what Ghost said!!






mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 17, 2012 - 07:22am PT
You should be getting up just about now. You will be the first in line at CPF, then you can fly. Don't stop to take pics (we've all seen the first section) until the sun comes. Forget us, enjoy the climb.

By the way, that Pano option is sicko! It's not natural.

But neither is getting up at 4 am in Camp 4. It's too alpine.

Silver

Ice climber
Oct 17, 2012 - 09:42am PT
Right on Mike get up early and get after it.

I recommend your just go do Astroman it can't be that hard. Werner can do it and I bet there is no line there.
;)

Sick pics Canucks really fun looking times yer having.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2012 - 10:20am PT
Couldn't resist checking this morning. Middle is still on the list but serenity sons is the plan for the day. Somewhat early start...
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 17, 2012 - 10:43am PT
Tell Relic he isn't allowed to bail anymore!
From what I understand, Mike might have a bit of trouble on the Harding Slot if he did AMan.
Jealous of you guys.
this just in

climber
north fork
Oct 17, 2012 - 10:45am PT
Don't know how long u guys are here, but if you wanna check out shuteye, hit me up.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 17, 2012 - 10:47am PT
Royal arche's to crest jewel. The line mist be a mile long for sons already.

Have fun
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
Mouse- Thanks. We did a lot more climbing today and the only photos I took were from the belay.

Silver- Not a soul there today. Arches was busy, Dan did that link up the other day and said it was awesome besides having to pass 6 parties on Royal Arches... It's on the list for sure...

Justin- I would love to but Relic wants to go boulder in Bishop so I don't think it's gonna happen, but I'll keep you in the loop.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 17, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
Ya sorry for bailing on Central Pillar Nathan. Climbing with 3 people, one normal seventy metre, and two half ropes sucked balls beyond belief.

We got on Serenity Crack/Sons of Yesterday this morning. Got up earlyish to beat the sun but not early enough apparently. The whole thing was cooking hot by the time I started leading the first scary pitch. By the time I was able to get my first piece in about 35 feet up, I had buckets of sweat blinding my eyes. Jah I'm whining about one of the best climbs in the valley, but I think there was a reason we were the only ones on it today. It is too freaking hot!

We did one of the crack pitches on Sons, then I had to make us rap off due to heat exhaustion. :(

this just in

climber
north fork
Oct 17, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
Never had a bad time in Bishop, love that place. Enjoying your photos and look forward to more, have a great rest of your trip Mike and Relic.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Oct 18, 2012 - 12:29am PT
Pee pee pillar was my first valley .10 lead as well. Fancy ain't it.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 18, 2012 - 12:48am PT
When you guys go to Bishop be sure to check out the Hot Springs at Hot Creek and beyond. Ask some locals in Mammoth Lakes where they are.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2012 - 12:52am PT
We got a pretty early start this morning..... Then we forgot the tag line..... Fortunately it was a short drive down one of the only two way roads in the valley that I've seen so far... like Relic said it was pretty darn warm...

After he almost sent the first pitch, I sent the second via the 10b traverse move and brought him up.









The start of p3





Knob at the belay




Crux of p3 (Taken on rappel)




Close up of the pin scars


Valley Pano


We chilled and Rehydrated at the base of the tree on sunset ledge and I think the adrenaline was going pretty good at that point because I felt alright still..

Relic took us up to the 5.6 anchor on Sons of Yesterday and and I sent the 10a pitch. I felt really good today and cleaned everything but the 3rd pitch crux of serenity crack.



Couple pics of Relic dying on sons.

















3rd pitch of sons





Relic wasn't very stoked when I took this Pano




We parked at the Awanhnee Hotel so after we went to get some water and chilled on the back patio




We met a very brave squirrel.


Then we went to currie and showered for the first time this trip ;) So yes, there are still dirtbags in camp 4 ;)

Touron rest day tomorrow...




Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 18, 2012 - 01:04am PT
Turn at the green church... I been there Wayno. Can't wait to hit it again!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 18, 2012 - 02:42am PT
You guys could put the hurts to Half Dome. The crux is the hike, according to Daryl.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 18, 2012 - 03:00am PT
Way to go boys! Go get more!

2 things:

 where the hell is Luke?? Is he still wall livin' on the Muir?

 u guys really need to simul Tenaya peak or Cathedral/Eichorn or do Fairview or West crack or South crack or On the lamb or 3rd pillar or Oz or Something in the meadows on your way to Bishop, after a week on the valley stone u guys will just eat that stuff up & probably tag a rad summit as well. I hope the weather is good for u guys.

Keep climbing for us soggy Squaminards & bring some high pressure back next weekend!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 18, 2012 - 03:05am PT
Yeah, just how is the young padawan getting along? The Force is strong in that one.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 18, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
The route just gets better and better on the Muir its tedious down low arching shallow corners.

This is a great first route you get a good look at the Shield side and then you get a great look at the Nose of the Capitan. You get to use a lot of techniques on this route.

If Luke is in contact let him know when he gets to the Dihedral near the top to look left at the base, there is an amazing ledge out there and its maybe 5.6 and 50 feet over from the corner to it. Nice place to hang for a night.



MH2

climber
Oct 18, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
WOOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!!!!


Thanks all for the stoke.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 18, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
Yup, they are up on the Muir Wall. We went and creeped on them today in the meadow this afternoon, our rest day. Tom Evans showed up and gave us a closer look at them on pitch 14, just before the grey ledges. Luke was hauling the kit up the tedious slab while Doug was leading up. Once they get to the grey ledges, the slab is below them and the steeper stuff begins.

Check them out on elcapreport
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
Yep. Rest day today...


Ryan the plan is to hit something on the way for sure.

Wayno the crux would be getting Relic to hike up there!!!

More later...
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 18, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#268929

One taste of the route. Last belay of the
Dihedral. Pretty smooth
photo not found
Missing photo ID#268930
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 18, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
The steep is between camp 4 level and the dihedral. Some great stuff in there. The pitch I believe after the 10 d flaring ow is this just awesome splitter with some great cam hooks and just super fun. Then you get that nutting pitch and then this really cool thin seam.

I really enjoyed this climb and did it with ST poster 426 on the 30 th anniversary of its FA. TM Herbert works here in town and 426 and the Herbert's go way back. A really awesome climb and nothing over the top,scary now that the death block before the dihedral is gone. That was a scary block with no know attachment point.





ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 19, 2012 - 12:52am PT
Rest day photo is at Steamboat?
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 19, 2012 - 02:38am PT
I hear Merced Grove is a real cool place to check out. Some kinda high woo-woo factor stuff I hear. Close your eyes, still your mind and just listen. Wonder.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Oct 19, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
I read this morning [no doubt others did too] that Nancy Hansen, from Canmore Alta just made a three day ascent of the Nose, with Lydia Marmont, likely from the same area.

What makes this special is this was tick #44 on Nancy's quest to climb all of the 50 Classics. Very impressive. Did you guys cross paths? She could autograph BM's new helmet! :)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
Silver, thanks!!! It looks rad up there.. I'm definitely going to have to join Luke for some aid fun one of these days. I keep going free climbing though and then he asks me to go I'm the winter when It's puking outside.... I was a snowboarder first!!

Biotch- on the way back from El Portal to get gas. Near Elephant Rock?

Hamie- Not yet but it's a small world... We met Paul Brennan today though which was pretty cool....

Yesterday we had a nice breakfast then went to check out Bachar Cracker






Relic almost had it figured out.

On the way back to camp saw a fat squirrel sunning himself
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
Then went to the meadow to visit Tom and the boys.




Then Tom came to visit us in the west meadow while we were watching the Luke and Doug, and was kind enough to show us his process.



This is as close as I've been to the rostrum




Ais staring at it from the road.



After we got back from El Portal we went to the Ansel Adams Gallery, it was super cool! We also checked out the visitor centre.




This deer let me get super close!!


What did we do today???? Got some unfinished business taken care of. More later.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Oct 19, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
I'm not sure if aid and fun should be that close together in a sentance haha
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 19, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
What makes this special is this was tick #44 on Nancy's quest to climb all of the 50 Classics.


Holy smoke! Are you serious? 44 out of the famous fifty? she's only got six to go ? that is outrageous - but i bet its the biggies to go huh? Hummingbird maybe? Middle triple? has she done the Salathe? Fairweather? I lost my copy so I can't remember all the long shots - what else?

Also: Mike - If you guys don't do the east butt of the captain don't even bother coming home
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 19, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
If you guys don't do the east butt of the captain don't even bother coming home

+1
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 19, 2012 - 10:47pm PT

This deer let me get super close!!

That's good practice for the sheep.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2012 - 12:36am PT
Too bad my partner isn't down. It's too darn hot out and he's already done it so refuses to suffer. Come on down Bruce! I'd love to climb it with ya!

Haters...
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 20, 2012 - 01:16am PT
Too hot? you are telling us of the pacific northwest and BC that it is too hot to sample the finest that the valley has to offer up on this your 2 weeks of holiday per year? Perhaps it is too dry as well?
Do you wish you were back home in nice cool and temperate Squishy? I had to flick a slug out of the way at work today and they're calling for sleet on the weekend - yum!

I bet tuolumne isn't too hot and you better get your licks in before tuesday.


http://wxmaps.org/pix/avnmr.96hr.html



The Rostrum is calling you as well. thats in the shade!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 20, 2012 - 01:30am PT
1 week to go boys?? When are u hittin the eastside???
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 20, 2012 - 01:34am PT
Half Dome. The Sentinel. The whole North Apron of Middle. Lower Cathedral.
It's easy to beat the heat.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2012 - 01:53am PT
iPhone just erased my post. Bummer. Here's a pano taken from the top of central pillar of frenzy for the night.


I'm down Bruce lets go! Talk to relic. I'll have to look at sentinel thanks for that.

Looks like rain soon like Bruce said so probably east side Sunday.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 20, 2012 - 02:12am PT
Those panos are just too feckin' cool. So much detail and light. Kinda surreal.

Kudos again Mike for such a fun thread. When I get home from work, the first thing I do is check to see what you guys are up to. The pics are great, and from a phone no less.

Cheers, beers, and no fears.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
Hey Dru! I really don't need to know about your sheep fetish..... ;)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
We met Paul Brennan from Squamish Photos and stories the other day at the bridge, fresh off his Mescalito send. He stopped by camp for a quick chat yesterday morning before we headed out.


The plan for the day was Central Pillar of Frenzy redemption so Ais dropped us off at middle cathedral and we headed up there. When we got to the base, there was another party on it of course but luckily they were fast so we decided to wait.

I got the first pitch and was still feeling a bit groggy when I started up. By the time I got to the crux at the top I was pretty stoked and negotiated it easily after learning the beta the other day.

I didn't pull out the camera till the top of pitch 3

Relic on p3 Central Pillar of Frenzy 5.9






More later... Off to the presentation tonight!!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2012 - 12:57am PT
Start of pitch 4



Pitch 5



Top of pitch 5






Time to go got to get up early tomorrow!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 21, 2012 - 01:06am PT
Early is The GloryTimes. Seriously. I sang with the yotes. They seemed to dig it.
Early is magic. And you should keep the magic alive.
Rock on, Squamisians. (there needs to be a word.)
Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 21, 2012 - 03:52am PT
Squaminites
Squamites
Squaminards
Squatamalans

Hmmmm

Squamptoneers
Squamalayans
Squamp people







Edit - those cracks look so killer!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 21, 2012 - 04:08am PT
Squamillian (Squa-meeee-lien) always had a nice ring.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 21, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
Eastside life..... Los Palmas

Ohhhhh, yeah!!!!!

We have arrived RyanD!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
I like Squamillian.. :)

Here's a couple more from Friday.

Central Pillar of Frenzy 5.9




This huge block is just sitting precariously at the fifth belay....



The views are insane all over town.












Chillin at the meadow creeping on the boys...



Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
Yesterday was super fun. We wanted to get Aislinn out since she hadn't got to climb much, so we took her to Knob Hill and made her lead everything.

On the way we stopped to check out the boys progress and I took this shot in the meadow.




Then we went out to Knob Hill.



Aislinn led the seldom done Unknown 5.9



Then she led the 5.10 slab and killed it!



She ropegunned us up the 5.7



Relic had the sickest knob dyno



Then we went to denagan's for some lunch and went back to camp to get changed before the presentation.

Ais got a quick slackline in.



Ed Cooper's photos were absolutely amazing!




I got a chance to meet Ed!

Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 22, 2012 - 12:06am PT
Yer unknown at Knob Hill is Pot Belly. Loved yer Meadow shot.
Diggin' it all, man.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 22, 2012 - 01:30am PT
Squamese bump.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 22, 2012 - 03:13am PT
Have fun on the eastside boys! Be sure to get a pic of Big Mike on ironman if it's even physically possible :-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2012 - 03:13am PT
Skully pot belly is the 5.8 no?

I am currently standing in the desert just outside bishop. We are bivied near the Buttermilks.

Bouldering tomorrow it seems. Not my strong suit. It should be fun though ;)

More pics from today's journey when I get to wi-fi tomorrow.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 22, 2012 - 11:11am PT
Are the Muir boys up and off yet mike?

You could hide on the pitch above the dihedral but I would not want to
climb out on the last with snow on it. Go for the top now if its not snowing or
raining men get off now or wait two more days. More snow is called for tonight and tomorrow
and Mike I suspect if they close 120 you will see a bit more road than
you expected.

Muir report please.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 22, 2012 - 11:32am PT
Wll, the weather's here. Hope your trip doesn't get washed out. Enjoy the Bishop scene.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g32083-d2164806-Reviews-The_Petite_Pantry-Bishop_California.html
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
The Boys were pushing for the top last night silver. They probably got snowed on a bit.. Luke loves epics though so this should be right up his alley. Maybe Aislinn will give us an update now that relic and I have left the valley.

Mouse it rained this morning in the milks this morning but it's drying up here in town.

We have an alternate route planned on the 50 if 120 gets closed. We fly back wed and it looks to be rainy...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
So Relic and I were up at 5:45 yesterday because I had serious summit fever. The plan was east butt of El Capitain. I was super psyched! We got to the parking lot and there was another party racking up, so we tried to hurry but to no avail.

Relic of the 2010's is not much on approaches anymore since he started wrestling pebbles full time... They smoked us up the trail so we took our time getting there and I had time for a few pics.

The sun just hitting the top of the Captain.



I love this phone for panos!!!!



When we got near the base we saw the team ahead of us heading back towards us....
They told us there were 5 parties ahead of us, and the first one was a party of three with two huge expedition bags, and were moving very slowly.

We decided to head up to the base and check it out.




They weren't lying....



We decided to bail, not wanting to deal with the gong show and the rock fall potential....,

Relic looking dejected...


I was extremely disappointed and dejected for some reason... I think I let the peer pressure of some nasty comments get to me.

It was pretty darn beautiful up there though....

Middle Cathedral



The Captain is amazing!!!















We went back to camp with our tail between our legs and had breakfast at the caf with Aislinn.


Then bid goodbye to the valley and the captain


Off to the happies!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
Report is Luke topped out last night but Doug and the kit didn't. Hopefully not too snowy up there...
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 22, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
Thanks Mike.

I feel better knowing they have a rope to the top fixed you can hide under the huge roof if they left the kit at I believe pitch 30 under the overhang, and did not travese it out to the left for the last pitch.

If they left it under the huge overhang they are pretty safe.

lets hope the guys make it off ok today and get down safe.

really happy for them what a great first El Cap route with huge history, and not beat out to sh#t like so many other Golden Age El Cap routes.

Good job guys!

Thanks Mike and if you get blown out today at the milks try the happy's on the other side of the valley.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 22, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
Mouse from Merced knows.


+1 heuvos from petite pantry, it's a massive plate & so good. Eat 1/2 & ask to get it packed up & they roll your leftovers into a burrito u can eat at the boulders. Nom, nom, nom.

The whole time the owner should be telling you border patrol stories about bringing justice to the Mexicans who tried to cross illegally. This is funny since he appears to be quite Mexican himself. Then someone may walk in with a file folder at which point he literally puts on a green, plastic accountants visor & pulls out a big accounting calculator with the paper roll & sits down & starts doing taxes . Yes petite pantry is the best restaurant/immigration office/accounting firm I have probably ever been to.





thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 22, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
Sh#t hit the fan up on Muir wall. I topped out around 10pm last night shorty after a nasty gear ripping fall. The tag line was stuck and the weather was getting fierce. I told Doug our best option was to leave the gear and bail for the valley, but he refused to leave the bags and insisted he was staying at belay 30. So off I went on an 8 mile wander and made it back to camp shortly before the storm hit.

Plans to go back and rescue him myself went sideways when I woke up to see snow on the valley rim. So I notified the NPS and YOSAR and they plucked his hypothermic stubborn ass off about a half an hour ago.

I've been beating myself up all day about whether I did the right thing leaving him there to fend for himself. Although we had all the equipment to theoretically survive a storm, it was certainly not on my list of super cool things to do.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 22, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
Wow!

Weather and hypothermia will change people in bad ways.



Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 22, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
bummer mike. sorry about the peer pressure. that wasn't my intension . i havn't been to the valley in 19 years so maybe i'm not the best guy to listen to.

Hows the weather looking?
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 22, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
Wow, Luke!

I hope Doug is OK but you were correct in GTFOOT. (getting the f*#k out of there) Crap in a bag no matter what it's worth in dollars has no value if you wind up dead over it...

Congratulations on climbing the Muir Wall ! ! ! WOO-HOO !
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 22, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
Luke! Holy shlt, sounds like you guys got lucky. Don't beat the crap outta yourself too much over your call to top out & get the f out. I would have left my stuff & returned later to avoid epic suffering if it was an option. Plus you technically finished the route. The tricky part is that your partner did not agree & wanted to stay with the things. At least you guys are both ok. Looking forward to the TR.

Bruce you have reduced Mike to -gasp- bouldering with your comments! I hope you're proud of yourself.

Edit- :-)
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Oct 22, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
Way to go Luke!! Good sports action !!
MH2

climber
Oct 22, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
Thanks for telling us how it ended up, Luke. What was Doug's plan?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 22, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
First things first: Big hats-off to Luke and Doug.

I was extremely disappointed and dejected for some reason... I think I let the peer pressure of some nasty comments get to me.

So, you live, and you learn. Next year, skip the Valley and go to The Needles. Best alpine cragging on the planet. No line ups, no crowds, no beat-to-shit pin scars, no connect-the-chalk-marks, shoe-polished rigs on which you will do the nine-thousandth ascent, no campgrounds full of tourons and deadbeats, no noise (except for the F-16s screaming by below you), no rescue if you f*#k up, no nothing except pure climbing on the best granite you'll ever touch.

See you Wednesday
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 23, 2012 - 01:37am PT
http://halfdome.net/cams/ahw_movie_01.php
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 02:23am PT
Bruce- No worries dude!! I know how to control my emotions and usually I don't let other people get to me. I wanted a summit too, guess I just didn't know how bad till I got the nudge.

X marked the spot so we decided to get the fvck out of dodge!!



It only took one look at Tuloumne to sort me out!!!!



Pothole dome??







Cool trees with mad Chemtrails in the background!!!




Breathtaking!!








Me and Relic tagged our first summit of the trip ;)








Incredible rock!!!!!




Tenaya lake... Amazing!!!



It was hard to get any driving done!! The meadows was so peaceful.



Cool clouds outside lee vining.




Relic in heaven at Las Palmas



El Pastor was so delicious!!!!



Went to the happy's today and was super impressed!!!

Luke- thanks for the update! Good to hear things worked out! You did the right thing in my mind! If I were up there with you I would have joined you for the walk down to camp and gone back for the stuff later. No pride in getting plucked off by yosar!!!!!


Ghost- I wouldn't change a thing. The valley was necessary and I enjoyed every minute of it and learned alot. The pinnacles look rad tho!!! Next time for sure! Looking forward to visiting on weds.

Relic wants to go to bed so we should peace out. More pebbles tomorrow!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 23, 2012 - 02:30am PT
Nice photos Big mike!! Las Palmas ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Oct 23, 2012 - 03:14am PT
Wow, five other parties on the east buttress, sorry it didn't work out but it will always be there,ready for your next visit.Sounds like you did lots of stuff though and probably have some plans for your next visit already. All your pics are great and really tell the story. Remember the crappiest day in Yosemite with that beautiful weather is still better than swimming down the chief during the monsoon.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 23, 2012 - 03:28am PT
Luke, when are you driving back through Seattle? Stop by and fill me in if I'm still in town. I would love to hear the tale firsthand.

Mike and Relic, I can't wait to hear the skinny. Are you guys gonna be in a hurry to get back to Canada?
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 23, 2012 - 08:47am PT
Luke and Doug not sure why you wanted to wait out of huge Cali storm at pitch 30 Doug but thats your call.

All your gear would have been there on Thursday or Friday guys,top out and bail,off the thing come back and get it later when you are rested and the weather is better.

Fox topped out and left his gear at 30 but it was 100 degrees plus and he and his wife had not had water for two days.

I look forward to your TR. I'm glad your safe and back to the ground.

Luke did you walk off the falls trail? Holy sh#t you must have been tired.



Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
Looks like we are going to have to go the long way back tonight because the passes are closed. Anyone got a floor in Reno or any good bivy info for us tonight?? It would be much appreciated.

Wayno- relic will want to get home because he has to work the next day, but I am sure we will be hungry so hopefully we can get him to agree to sit down with you guys for some dinner!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 23, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
I'm pretty sure we can get Relic to eat something before braving the Border. How is the Kid and Doug? When does he plan on heading North?
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 23, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
Mike I sent you a PM check yer mail.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 23, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
The kid is all good except for some shin splints from the falls trail.. Haven't heard from Doug yet, YOSAR got him down to the valley last night and called me to pick him up but I was too drunk to drive.

Nice pics mike. Too bad you didn't reach the rim.. Next time.

I'm trying to convince Ais to come for a lap up the RNWF of Half Dome before we head back north. After we retrieve our gear that is.

We will give ya a call on our way through Wayno. That is if Doug still wants to drive us home.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 23, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
http://voices.yahoo.com/road-trip-yosemite-try-mariposas-best-food-trucks-6852784.html?cat=22
You should make next year's Facelift. Get some good Taco Truck fixin's.

Best in Mariposa.
Best in Mariposa.

As far as the In-n-Out burger or the Priest Station Cafe go, they'll still be here.

The Double-Double cows are still around.
The Double-Double Bar B brand's stock.
The Double-Double Bar B brand's stock.
Priest Station Cafe is now advertising on the ST.
Burger, drool.
Burger, drool.
You're good to go, too bad you need to.
Ya come back.
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Oct 23, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
This is classic sh#t, rescues, BK making people cry.

hahahaha, right on!

Write a book for sure!!

Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Oct 23, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
If you're headed back over Donner, you should take the scenic route over Mt Rose, then up past Alpine Meadows and Squaw to ogle the fun terrain there. It's not Whistler, but it's damn good. Plus, it's a nice drive. Also, old hwy 40 over Donner is a good trip, parallels the 80 and you can ogle the climbing and skiing.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 23, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
Luke, I'm heading to Cali on Thursday through Monday. I'll be at the Fest in Oakburg.
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Oct 23, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
The Captain is amazing!!!

Yes...it is our "Grand Wall," as noted upthread.

Gee, since you bivi'ed out at the 'Milks yesterday, you might have noticed Starlite from there.

Sounds (and looks) like you men had a successful trip - glad you checked out the CPof/F! _I/d call it the best multipitch crack climb of its grade in The Park, but others might take exception...but it's quite a trophy to take back across the border to Squeemish with ya'll. NAFTA!

I think Serenity is the only 5.11 in the Roper Green; FFA Higgens lead, but that was to change even as the book was on the presses. BITD, my 1st/est partner, TC, and I found ourselves onsiting lots of thin stuff that wasn't documented anywhere except in the FA'ists 3-ring binders.

Re: the Trad Thread - if you don't know what to expect, then what ever turns up is okay...right? Call it 5.10e/f; the hardest move is the one out of the parking lot.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
Wow! Just got a call from Luke! Seems him and Ais have been "ditched" in the valley! Doug disappeared last night never to be seen again apparently. If anyone would like to meet the kid I'm sure he would appreciate a ride to a airport somewhere after they retrieve the gear....

Silver thanks! Will be calling very shortly. Kabla I heard you might be around these parts.. Too bad we didn't get to meet up. Next time.

Lotsa stuff to post from the last couple days but no time now.

Hoser- BK never made me cry but it did get under my skin a little..... All good now. Why are you such a hoser all the time??? ;)

Too bad we are stuck on the other side of the mountains and unable to assist Luke. Sounds like he just inherited a crap load of new gear though!!!

MH2

climber
Oct 23, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
Doesn't add up. Doug froze to stay with the gear and then abandoned it? We need his side.
QITNL

climber
Oct 23, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
Really enjoyed your TR. You made the news?

http://www.sfgate.com/news/article/Yosemite-rangers-make-daring-rescue-on-El-Capitan-3975594.php

Yosemite rangers make daring rescue on El Capitan

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, Calif. (AP) — A Canadian climber is recuperating from a mild case of hypothermia after being stranded in a snow storm on the largest granite monolith in the world.

Authorities say the 40-year-old climber was near the summit of Yosemite National Park's El Capitan Sunday night when his rope became stuck as the first winter snowstorm of the season hit the Sierra Nevada. His climbing partners already were at the 7,569-foot summit.

The man, whose name has not been released, could not deploy a rainfly over his hanging tent system to deflect the rain and snow. Temperatures were in the 20s and the area received four to six inches of snow.

Park rangers hiked to the summit Monday and lowered one to rescue the climber. After hauling him up, the group hiked out. The climber was hospitalized.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 23, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
Wow. Glad it worked out. Last time I happily drove out of the valley in a late october snow storm 4 Japanese fellows were dying of hypothermia just a pitch below the top on the nose. That scenario is no joke. This is a risky time of year for sure. Good move getting YOSAR on it.

Whoa - hoser did i make you cry again? damn! sorry dude. All i seem to do is step on toes these days!
MH2

climber
Oct 23, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
Thanks, QITNL. That may explain it.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 23, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
Yeah, I hope Doug is OK.

Everyone makes decisions and choices that real consequences can't be factored into until they happen.

It's a pretty big deal to get caught at the top of El Cap in freezing temps. Rowell wrote a piece once talking about being at the top of the Nose in similar conditions. He said something about facing the final 30' of 5.4 slab to the bush above being covered in ice and flowing water.

thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 23, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
Andy you are right. It DOESN'T ADD UP!

We heard the storm was coming from Aislinn early Sunday morning and we were set up to climb out with only 6 pitches to go(we were at belay 26)

Doug made no significant effort to move quickly taking 6 or 7 hours to lead his 2 pitch block. Nearly dark by the time I got started on the finally pitches, I was in get the f*#k out of here ASAP mode.

First I linked p29 and p30 in a ropelength and while linking the last two pitches into one the tag line managed to get stuck under a flake. Due to the traversing nature of the pitch freeing the stuck rope could have taking quite awhile. And I had no desire to find our how fierce and early winter storm on elcap could be.

After replying 'f*#k that' to my suggestion to leave the bags and bail to safety of the valley, I told him I was leaving in 10 minutes and to decide if he was coming or staying he quite clearly replied he was going to stick it out with the bags, for reasons unknown.

I've never been in a situation like this before and can't help but feel guilty for 'leaving him up there' but sm sure glad I didn't risk my own safety by pointlessly trying to stick it out.

YOSAR interviewed us both and will no doubt put together an analysis of the ordeal at some point.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 23, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
Man, don't even sweat it. Sh#t happens, and it could have been so much worse. We're just glad you're okay.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 23, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
I've never been in a situation like this before and can't help but feel guilty for 'leaving him up there

Disagreeing with your partner over what to do in a life/death situation is probably the ultimate worst climbing scenario.

But think about it this way: Suppose you had stayed up there. Would you have survived the night? Would you have been in any condition to help even if you had survived? Would it be better to have had YOSAR come in to pull two people out instead of one? Given that all your gear (sleeping bag, etc) was still down at the belay, you'd have been in desperate shape in the morning if you tried to hang out on top.

If there was something you could have accomplished by staying, then sure, you should have stayed. But it sounds like there's a good chance things would have been worse if you stayed, not better.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 23, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
Well, glad that everyone is down and apparently OK, whatever exactly happened. Also that you guys seem to have had a great trip, and thanks for the daily updates!

Apropos of what happened, there was an incident involving a US Air Force jet in the 1960s. Pilot and co-pilot. In a crash, each had a choice to eject or to stay with the plane. The plane went down, the pilot ejected, and the co-pilot stayed on board. Both lived - if either had done the opposite, he'd have died. Maybe Luke and Doug both made the right decision, in context.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
I don't get it. Willing to risk his life for the gear that night, then peace out after?? Hypothermia does weird things to people and so does being on the wall for so long. All I know is if it were me I would not allow myself to be plucked off by yosar unless it was absolutely necessary. I fear we will never hear Doug's side unfortunately.

We had a great trip, and my east side exposure over the last couple days was extremely eye opening. I hate to say it, but I love desert bouldering now!!!!

We are currently devouring all you can eat spaghetti at the topaz lake casino just over the Nevada border. All the passes are closed so Reno was the only option. Hopefully if we get there soon enough tonight, Silver will join us for a beer.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 23, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
Ghost is wise

Kid you n Doug should not let this moment rob you of how awesome your effort as a team was to reach even the point where you parted ways.

8 days on the cap is mental work as well as physical. Let the dust settle let Doug chill out and find his peace and talk it over privately. Some things are not understood in the moment. Be happy Doug is alive and so are you.

I truly am stoked for both of you a great route and good work getting it done.

go get the gear Friday.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Oct 23, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
This is better that most reality TV! Well, I guess I shouldn't say that since I don't watch reality TV, but this is pretty interesting, no doubt.

I hope all parties involved had a great adventure in California and go home with many memories and stories. Please no blame or second guessing or guilt. Why expend time and energy on that? You all did what was best for each of you in that moment and that is good enough.

Come back to "Cali" soon!

Phyl
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
Eastside teaser!!!!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 23, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
Livin' Large over there, Big Mike.

I think Silver & the Ghost are both making pretty good sense.
It is what it is.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 24, 2012 - 12:31am PT
Luke, maybe I can help get you home. If you and Ais can get to Oakdale I'm sure I can get you to the Oakland airport and help you get north from Seattle. As I said before, I will be at the Oakdale fest until Sunday and I can get you to the airport on Sunday evening or Monday. I know places you can stay in the Oakland/Berkeley area.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 24, 2012 - 12:56am PT
Topaz Lake is way cool. When I lived in Mammoth we took a trip up there on Xmas and hung out and ate and gambled and even went fishing on the lake in a snowstorm. We didn't catch anything, but there are some big fish in that lake. We got snowed in for a couple days but it was fun, in a cheesy cheap Reno kinda way. Now you guys get to see a big chunk of the magic that is US Hwy 395.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 24, 2012 - 12:59am PT
Depending on day and time, if you get them to the border, perhaps I can meet them there.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 01:01am PT
Ya, Lake Tahoe looked sick in the dark!
Standing outside a Starbucks in Reno leeching wi-fi trying to figure out where to stay.

How can you 3.99 all you can eat spaghetti at the topaz lake casino??

Sounds like Luke has arranged a rental car and the lucky bastards will be staying until the 31st!!! Go send Half Dome for me!!!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 24, 2012 - 01:23am PT
The big casinos can actually be cheap if you play your cards right. Plentiful food anyway. I would frequently just sit at a bar in the casinos and play the poker machines. I would get free drinks as long as I was playing. Make it look like you can afford to lose a little, and they think that maybe a few drinks will loosen up your purse strings.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 02:20am PT
Circus circus baby!!! 38 bucks and free wi-fi can't go wrong!!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 04:49am PT
After dinner on Sunday night we met up with dan at Starbucks, and rolled up the his site at the Buttermilks.

When we awoke it was raining....






Things were starting to look nice towards town so we decided to head down to grab some breakfast, and a sandwich from Schat's.




After breakfast we headed out to the Happy's.





This gully has some amazing rock!!!



And some beautiful views




We warmed up on a nice V0









Then headed over to a very cool looking V1









I managed to send both but nearly bailed in a bad spot on the V1



With a few warmups under their belt we headed over to Solarium V4




It was perfect sending temps.



Dan got it done 3rd try




Relic sent it too and they joined the group working on the Hulk. I took some shots with my rebel, but after awhile got bored and wandered up to the rim.



As I was shooting this pano one if the guys in the group came up to me and told me that Dan had blown his knee in a twisting fall off the hulk.



I rushed down, and sure enough Dan was lying there and we had to help him hobble out of the boulders.

I ended up grabbing all our stuff and snuck this one off on the way down.




We took him to the emergency and then went back to
camp to tear down his stuff



This river gully was alive with color




Relic scared the crap out of me with the horn right b4 I took this




We set up our tents somewhere a little more accessible for the avenger.






All this pretty much ended our day so we dropped off dan's ride at the ER and leeched the hospital wi-fi to check out the thread.

We took mouse and Ryan's suggestion and checked out the Petite Pantry.



It was awesome! Excellent service! I got the chicken enchilada all you can eat special, polished off my plate and got another. About one bite in I was super full so I got her to wrap it up burrito style for lunch today. So awesome!!!

Wow it's late again... Flying out tomorrow from sac unfortunately.... More then.

Peace!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 24, 2012 - 07:27am PT
Better than Snookie, damn sure!

Very nuch hope that knee isn't too twisted. OW, vucking, shutty!

There was the Sky-Lab Burrito at a Mex restaurant in N. Hollywood that was a two-mealer easy. Glad you guys liked the

Double P. http://www.yelp.com/biz/the-petite-pantry-bishop
The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Oct 24, 2012 - 09:32am PT
Unfortunately this is the view from my living room/front yard. Sucks don't it....
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 10:48am PT
Sick Pano the Chief!!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 11:04am PT
Before we went to bed Monday night, Relic advised me that I should get up for the Buttermilks sunrise. Damn was he ever right!!!!












The definition of beauty???









You know I got more!! ;)




Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Oct 24, 2012 - 11:08am PT
If he couldn't set up the portaledge fly he was probably hypothermic and not thinking clearly. Not something to hold against someone, and also for yourself, it's not easy to recognize hypothermia. I think the better decision would have been to go down and at least make sure he could set up the ledge, but I wasn't there and don't know what the weather was really like.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Oct 24, 2012 - 11:12am PT
By the way the title of this thread is also the name of a famous salsa song. It is about Cali, Colombia. I just passed through the Cali aiport last week.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 11:13am PT
Don he had the choice to go up and abandon the gear just like Luke did! Would that not have been the better choice???? He ascended the rope after his fall, why not the one attached to the rim???

Mouse- Dan's knee was well fvcked. He is a doc and was thinking acl mcl pcl but won't know exactly till he gets home as he refused to pay for x-ray/ MRI whatever here choosing instead to fly home immediatly and deal with it there.
dave

climber
Earth
Oct 24, 2012 - 11:31am PT
Hey I saw you guys at the happies on monday. Some girl from your group ran over to borrow a phone from us but then you guys decided to walk out, I'm glad you did, it would have been sad to see a 'rescue' called in for a blown out knee. Thanks for walking out!!

That problem on the Solarium is considered v3, not v4 but guess I'm splitting hairs.

Glad you liked our east side hovel, we like it too!

What camera did you take those pics with, I'm considering one of those eos rebels', what one you have, you got some really nice pictures!?

Dave
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 11:34am PT
Dave I haven't even got to my rebel pics yet!!! Everything on the thread was taken with my IPhone!!!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 11:34am PT
HDR pro is the secret.
dave

climber
Earth
Oct 24, 2012 - 11:40am PT
I dont know sh#t, what is HDR pro? What kind of Rebel, I cant wait to see pics. I was thinking on the t3i, I believe thats what its called.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Oct 24, 2012 - 11:57am PT
No bag of stuff is worth risking your life, unless it was some of that vintage Airplane sh#t.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
HDR pro is a really cool app for iPhone. Rebel xt is my slr
MH2

climber
Oct 24, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
As a bystander I have no need to know and probably shouldn't have asked. It's just what we do around here. Thanks for the details, Luke. Big time on a big route. Hope you feel good about the other 99%.
this just in

climber
north fork
Oct 24, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
What a trip. Thanks for all the pics and the running TR. Anytime you guys are back in Cali, you're welcome at my house. Come check out Soyo.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
Cool Justin! Watch out I will take you up on that!!!

Jumping on the plane now. Damn I don't wanna leave!!!!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 24, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
Please stay.......

This has been a most entertaining trip.

Thanks
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 24, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
It was great having breakfast with mike and relic this morning. Some serious good guys here and a real pleasure to have met you both.

Safe journeys home guys and look forward to your next visit.

Peace
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2012 - 12:11am PT
Ya Silver!!!!! So good to meet you dude!!! Next time I'm buying!!! Should seen donner pass what a joke! I've never put chains on with less than 6 inches of snow. They made us put them on for wet pavement!!!! Retarded!!!
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Oct 25, 2012 - 12:45am PT
They made us out them on for wet pavement!!!! Retarded!!!
I don't think there is any contest here, when it comes to dealing with snow the Canucks are going to beat us every time!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2012 - 01:04am PT
Sh!t blew my mind!!!! Chains are a hazard on wet pavement they slide way more than rubber?? Who the heck is running that show????
John M

climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 01:10am PT
there are a number of problems in the Sierras. The conditions change very quickly and there are so many drivers who don't know how to drive in winter conditions because they live in a place that never gets snow. How much snow does the bay area get? haha.. It is not uncommon for the conditions to change and in 20 minutes they have 30 or 40 or even more accidents and the road can be closed for 2,3,4 or more hours. So they tend to error on the side of caution to keep the road open. Thats why people who live in the mountains opt for 4 wheel drives with snow tires. No need for chains.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 25, 2012 - 01:11am PT
Easy there Michael. You're a guest in their country, and you shouldn't make fun of them.

I know that's an impossible task, but you should at least try.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2012 - 01:20am PT
I've done pretty good so far... Just couldn't resist that one. Seriously felt way sketch with chains on wet pavement.... Sorry we missed you tonight Dave!!!

I have winter tires on my ride here for the same reason but obviously am not going to get that on a rental in Sacramento... They told me I wasn't allowed to put chains on their car and that I should have waited it out or got an awd.. WTF????
John M

climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 01:27am PT
I would hate to be the person who decides chain control on 80. You can't win. If you leave the control sign off and conditions change, then you have 50 accidents and the experienced drivers complain because they are sitting on the side of the road. If you put the control sign up and the conditions change back to wet roads then everyone complains. They need two roads. One for experienced snow drivers and one for the rest, but even that wouldn't work. I can't tell you how many people come to the park with snow driving experience and wreck.

"we are from back east. we drive in the snow all the time. we didn't think that we needed chains".

It snows 8 inches in 30 minutes and CRASH.. 35 accidents. Half of them with drivers who "know how to drive in the snow".

you can't win.. so you complain on a forum.. haha
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2012 - 01:41am PT
Totally. I get it. We have the same problem on the sea to sky with Vancouver drivers and probably should do more chain controls....
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 25, 2012 - 01:46am PT
What about hillbilly controls, for country folk coming into the city? Not quite sure what we'd make them do, but anything so they get with the program and drive like normal city beings. Psychotic pedal to the metal tailgating redlight running pedestrian disregarding unsignalling freaks.

I got stopped at chain control on I-5 north of Redding once. What a fuss! I had four new snow tires and BC plates, but they still made me put on my chains. I took them off about five km upp the road, and toodled gently on my way.

Some of those little places must make a ton on flogging overpriced chains, tows, and so on in the winter. Good for them!
John M

climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 01:47am PT
Glad you had a good trip. Other then the chain controls.. which we by the way put up specifically for Canadians. There is a special symbol that they put up so that Californians know when the chain control sign is for real. Maybe next trip I will let you in on it. But first we had to see how you behaved on this trip.. heh heh..
John M

climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 01:48am PT
MH.. its the hillbillies that stop on the on ramps and don't know how to merge that bug me the most. Plus doing 45 mph in the fast lane..
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 25, 2012 - 02:30am PT
When I lived in Mammoth, the most dangerous drivers were the ones with 4WD SUVs. It made being a pedestrian a dangerous thing in the winter.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 25, 2012 - 03:58am PT
I think that Big Mike passed me on the highway just over an hour or so ago.

Welcome home boys, glad you had an awesome trip! Love that corner crack at the happies, with that thumb up lock it is sooo fun. Solarium too. Can't believe you guys didn't hit in & out in Carson & went for casino scetti instead!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2012 - 05:28am PT
Ryand-Relic was set on it and I didn't get my in-n-out this trip!! Dammit!!!!!!

Gotta go back let's go!!!!!

Wayno- Weekenders!! ;)

John m- Thanks. I should have thought of Anders tactic when the other lane was closed all the way and I could have easily pulled over...

Around here they decided they don't want to designate the sea to sky a mountain highway so chain controls aren't mandatory although maybe they should be... We have quite a few accidents every winter on the Sea to Sky....
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 25, 2012 - 08:12am PT
"it's only Canada. But at least there's snow."--Snow-Shovel Face and the Elves

That's a post from the dynamite thread by eKat, *IT'S SNOWING* http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1959886&tn=40

Tim is my younger bro and has had a chainer's permit for at least twenty-five years. He loves the way the system works and he has no time for jerks.

He is full of smart-ass stories about loser drivers who think they can even handle a car let alone drive one in the car-swallowing drifts which caused the State to post this latest "chains mandatory" alert/warning/joke.

But like the CHP said, "Keep it moving, please."

Reality STV: It's better than Snookie!
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 08:22am PT
Yeah Mike sorry its the California low Sierra legends who drive those rear wheel drive cars with chains on the from tires who f*#k it up for all of us.

You should hear my wife tell the stories she drives Reno to truckee everyday and has seen about every fubar driving bs you can imagine.

Right after chain control and just down the road take that sh#t off and drive like normal mountain people.

I look forward to your next visit it was great to meet you guys.

Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 25, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
I can't wait to come back eastside. Such a great trip. It was so nice to meet you guys. Wayno and Silver were total stand up guys. Thanks for helping us out so much. You guys rule!
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Oct 25, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
Around here they decided they don't want to designate the sea to sky a mountain highway so chain controls aren't mandatory although maybe they should be... We have quite a few accidents every winter on the Sea to Sky....

Thats not true, in fact there is no highway out of Van that is not designated winter tire or chains required. I have seen folks turned around before, you either need the mountain snowflake symbol or chains on Sea to sky.

Welcome home
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 03:18am PT
Actually Hoser you're wrong.



**Mountain highway designation likely dead

Would have required snow tires on Sea to Sky at all times
by Andrew Mitchell | October 15, 2010**

A resolution to designate the Sea to Sky Highway as a mountain highway has been bouncing around since 2003, but after it received no support at the recent Union of B.C. Municipalities convention in Whistler, the resolution is likely dead.

"This was our last ditch attempt," said Mayor Ken Melamed.



Melamed said the original call for the mountain highway designation was in 2003 after a series of blizzards and accidents that shut down the highway for hours. Stakeholders, including Sea to Sky communities, the Squamish-Lillooet Regional District, RCMP and highway contractors asked for a resolution in support of mountain highway status to prompt the province to intervene. Melamed said the UBCM's support could have helped, but it would have been the Government of B.C.'s decision whether to support that resolution.

Among other things, a mountain highway designation would make it easier for authorities to close the road to vehicles without snow tires or chains during snowstorms or when snow is on the ground or in the forecast. It also makes it easier to close the highway for plows if necessary.

While there was some concern that a mountain highway designation could hamper the number of visitors to Whistler from areas like Vancouver and Seattle where snow is a rarity, those rules would only apply during certain conditions.

"The question was asked if this would have been a barrier for people to get to Whistler, but my understanding is that most people in the resort and tourism sector were in favour of greater safety on the highway," said Melamed. "There was a period in the past where the highway was closed up to six hours at a time with multiple crashes on icy roads.

"The reality is that, over years of trying to explore this, the mountain highway designation is not something that is easy to achieve or thought to be the best solution - and there was no support from the Ministry of Transportation."


More here:
http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com/whistler/mountain-highway-designation-likely-dead/Content?oid=2169183


I've lived here on the coast for most of my life and whistler for fifteen years so I have some clue what I'm talking about. They do chain controls sometimes when it's really bad but it's not mandatory that they do and a lot of people run into trouble when they come up and it's nice, then the weather changes on them on the way back down as there are never chain controls leaving Whistler.

Our plowing setup is amazing too, I've driven bare pavement on the sea to sky and then jumped on the ferry to the island and been sketched out by the other drivers on super icy roads, because they don't have enough plows and it doesn't usually snow there very
much....

Thanks for the bump buddy!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2012 - 10:23pm PT
First of all, I must say, I would like to echo Ryand's sentiments...

I LOVE THE EASTSIDE LIFE!!








ok ok.. I said I had more pics and I do! Here are the rest of those cool sunrise shots....


















































And we got to play in the Buttermilks a bit on Tuesday which I quite enjoyed.


More on that, a bit later....



RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 28, 2012 - 01:43am PT
Yeah Big Mike, it's pretty nice over there. Im squandering in a post eastside hangover still. Free to do as u please more or less & the dinosaur eggs are pretty fun to play on too. Does this mean we'll see u in the boulders this winter when the snows shlt & the friction is all time??? Put that reach to use!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2012 - 02:03am PT
Relic sending...





Sent










Super cool patina problem


I ran up this one it was super fun!


Pebbles...



Hero Roof




Relic pulls the arete


nita

Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
Oct 28, 2012 - 02:03am PT


Big Mike, Thanks for the fun trip report and all the cool/ beautiful pictures....
Come back to California anytime....

Did you feel the quake?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2012 - 02:18am PT
Nita- no not here in whistler. I heard a lot of people in Squamish did though.

Ryand- I'm down! Maybe fly into Vegas?? ;) mmm Red Rocks!!!

Khanom- yeah chains.... Great tool, there is a time and place for it for sure.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 28, 2012 - 02:22am PT
Mike - I'm just jumping on the plane tomorrow!

Abandon yer job! come on down!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2012 - 02:24am PT
sooo tempting!! ;)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 28, 2012 - 03:03am PT
BK can't wait for that Rostrum TR! You gonna keep this thread alive for us while your there??

I almost wish I would have went down later this year since it rained here a total of zero days while I was gone. Almost.

Only time I've ever headed south & it was sunny when I left & when I came back, so weird.


Big Mike, perhaps I should have been more clear- THE SQUAMISH BOULDERS!!!

Puffy jackets & tea & hopefully Relic too. Who knows maybe even Luke if he's had his share of suffering yet.

That said I was thinking of a little 3-4 day mission this winter to clip a few in RR, we'll talk.

Awesome photos btw! This thread has been entertaining to say the least.
slodog

Trad climber
ontario canada
Oct 28, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
Relic and Big Mike,glad you had a great trip-

Luke-i was going as fast as i could up there,to make it sound like i was making no effort to keep up is just not true.i dont want what happened to ruin an otherwise great climb.i was still haulling the previous linked pitchs when you announced you were leaving in ten minutes from 2 pitchs above-after asking me to tag you the lead line witch was my anchor.had you have waited at p 30 rather than racing off we would have finished together with the gear before the storm hit.as it was-with 2 traversing pitchs to clean-a haul to finish and a stuck tag line-i felt it better[safer]to wait for light-and you agreed to meet me in the morning.i got hit hard that night and in retrospect i should have done whatever i could to get off that night even if you were already gone.this being said-i have no hard feelings-mistakes were made.I made mistakes-i wish you and Aislin all the best-when you write your tr,let it reflect on the good things about our experience-again-I wish you well Doug
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 28, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
Doug - We wanna hear more! Would be good to hear about it from your side. Luke hasn't given us anything. What happened?
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 28, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
Thanks for posting Doug, it's a good thing you made it out in one piece!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2012 - 12:46am PT
Ryand- Squamish Boulders eh? hmm.. ;) Definetly have one score to settle..

ya ya Red rocks.. so down. maybe a classic trad multi too?


Doug- Wow. Please do tell us more. It would be nice to hear it from the horse's mouth as it were.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 29, 2012 - 01:16am PT
Somewhere upthread, in response to Luke's self-questioning over whether he'd done the right thing, I wrote:

Disagreeing with your partner over what to do in a life/death situation is probably the ultimate worst climbing scenario.

When it happens, there really is no right or wrong. It's just miserable for everyone, and quite often not everybody survives.

You guys are both still alive.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2012 - 03:41am PT
I'm still in Bishop.I'm still in Bishop.I'm still in Bishop.I'm still in Bishop......







What do you know? Hero roof.. I am still there!

Silver

Ice climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 09:41am PT
Doug I am glad you are ok and that you see that one moment in a long climb should not rob either of you from feeling a sense of accomplishment.

Would be nice to hear from your perspective a TR on the climb.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
My Bishop mantra wasn't working so hot today... Climbing ladders in the pissing rain was the name of the game today.. Gotta clean those windows! Ugh...

I wish I was in Bishop....


ahhhhhh... That's better....








The Buttermilks..





Tarryn(sp?) sends the crack next to Test of the Ironman




Action pano's don't really work out too hot but this one is pretty funny..




Mark working Test Of The Ironman v4?




Absolutely incredible scenery around here.....




We had a pretty darn fun day at the 'milks but the dastardly wind returned at full force and dampened our spirits a bit.. At one point someone was literally blown off a problem, so Relic and I decided to call it quits for the day..

I took one last pano of the Buttermilks.




That was the last photo I took until we reached Topaz.. Despite the amazing sunset, I was tasked with the driving since Relic had decided to leave his driver's license in his vehicle in Seattle!!


Relic was set on all you can eat spaghetti at Topaz Lodge Casino, so we went in a checked it out.



It was pretty good.. Still wish I knew about In-N-Out in Carson!!!

We rolled into Reno and hit the first starbucks we could find to book a cheap room. Circus Circus was 32 bucks plus fees and had free wi-fi.. Good enough for this guy!!



I got up in the morning and was greeted by this:





Tahoe was looking pretty sweet!!


If only I had unlimited funds and time....


I woke up sleepy head Relic and rushed downstairs to the car to pack up the tent.

Silver texted me while I was packing up and asked if we were still on for breakfast. I was stoked to meet him and of course replied "Yes!" He told us to meet him at Pegs Glorified Ham N Eggs..

We finally got on the road, late as per usual and rushed up Sierra St. We found a parking spot on the street with some difficulty and went inside. Silver recognized me right away and waved us over.

We introduced ourselves and immediately began bullshitting about all things climbing. Within no time our food had arrived.

Wow.




I have to say one thing about the U.S.A... You guys do food right. My breakfast was amazing... Caramelized banannas on a ham steak which was too much for even me to eat!! Damn.


Silver was really a really nice guy and we had an excellent discussion. He was even nice enough to buy us breakfast! Very cool. On the way out he checked the chain control advisory which were of course in place, and allowed me to take this photo.

THANKS SILVER!!


Getting back to Sacramento was a bit of an epic but nothing major, some of which I allready dropped... I'm saving the rest for the proper TR!



Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 30, 2012 - 12:39am PT
Action pano's don't really work out too hot but this one is pretty funny..

"Funny" doesn't really do it justice. I think you should start shooting more of those.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 30, 2012 - 12:42am PT
Hah! Good stuff. That last bit is in my town! And I recognize that Silver dude too!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 12:45am PT
Jeebus next time I make it to the east side we should fire one up!!

Big mikes wacky action pano's coming up!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 30, 2012 - 12:53am PT
He told us to meet him at Pegs Glorified Ham N Eggs..

I have eaten there and after being a B'fast cook for fideen years, I would say silver knows his stuff. Pegs is really good.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 30, 2012 - 12:57am PT
Jeebus next time I make it to the east side we should fire one up!!

I know, man! Sucks I missed ya, but I guess you were on your way out anyway. There's great climbing in the Tahoe area too if you allowed a day or two.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 30, 2012 - 01:04am PT
Big mikes wacky action pano's coming up!!

Back in the days of EBs and Whillans Harnesses, we had to take exotic drugs to see sh#t like that. Getting it via some pictures taken with a telephone just ain't the same, but it's still pretty cool.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 02:14am PT
Jebus- Ya we were in and out like the wind... Next time I might just fly into Reno and check out what the else the eastside has to offer!!

Back in the days of EBs and Whillans Harnesses, we had to take exotic drugs to see sh#t like that. Getting it via some pictures taken with a telephone just ain't the same, but it's still pretty cool.

Rofl!!!!! You don't know Dave! Maybe my phone is on drugs!!

More trippy phone pics for Dave!!








Wayno- Pegs was dope! I would almost go back just for that!!!

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 02:35am PT
On a personal note, I would like to take a minute to acknowledge everyone who helped make this happen, Wayno your hospitality on both ends of the trip was amazing. It was seriously more than we had ever dreamed of. Ghost, your inspiration and encouragement here and via email were very much appreciated. To all those who sent me route suggestions and encouragement/ beta via email or in thread, you made my trip that much more smooth and the simple gesture meant a lot to me.

To Relic my partner in crime and rope mate, it never would have happened without you dude!!! Thanks for everything!!! To Aislinn who put up with my endless posting of more images and late night posts. To Luke and Doug for transporting gear for me and securing our humble abode. To Dan for letting me use his computer, being a ethical inspiration and all the shits and giggles. Also thanks for not waiting for me to get my sh!t together on Salathe wall! You probably saved my life!!!!


Thanks to everyone who posted here and came along for the ride. It was amazing to have you!!!!!

The greatest thing about this thread is re-reading it and your comments now that I have a better understanding of the context...

Oh ya.... I got more pics and I left lots of juicy details out of this thread...... So stay tuned for a full blown Trip Report!!!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
Mike, that inner voice told me it would be worth it, and it was right. That is what we do. There is something in this connection we all share as "climbers" that I don't care to analyze too much, but just try to nourish and enjoy. Brother.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
Mike you guys are welcome anytime and if you see big mike n person you know why they call him big mike that's why I took him to big breakfast.

Glad you made it home safe come back ill make time and we will show you some great stuff from Tahoe to Whitney.

Have a safe winter gets some big turns in and if we see in the Whistler this winter don't be too surprised.

Silver
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
What???!!! Dude I hope so!! It would be my pleasure to share my pow stashes with friends!!!

Thanks Wayno!! Come sledding this winter man you will love it!!!
this just in

climber
north fork
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
Sh#t yeah. Great photos and can't wait for the TR. I'll be in Whistler in March, hope the snow is good this year. Mongolian Grill! Damn I'm hungry know.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
Like wise Mike if we're getting big snow come visit and well show you Squaw and some of our favorites as well.

Best to you guys this winter and buy Luke. Beer for me one night at the pub for ticking off the Muir.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
Justin you better drop me a pm when you come so we can go shred some pow!!!!


Silver you got it bud!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
Got a few SLR photos done for Facebook... Can you tell???

Dan on the first pitch of Salathe Wall 10c?

This pic damn near killed me. If I were here 5 minutes later I woulda got squashed for sure!!!!




Mark on Test of the Ironman v4


Is it just me or are there a lot of contrails in my pics???
this just in

climber
north fork
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
For sure, can't wait to get back up there. Have a good one mike and write that TR!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:15am PT
That photo of Dan is really good.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 03:33am PT
Another SLR teaser....

Stars on El Cap.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 03:35am PT
Thanks Ryan. It felt pretty cool just hanging there taking it! :)

edit: oh ya forgot to mention... that pitch is amazing!!!! so much fun!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 02:23am PT
So on Thursday I had a couple of things to do in the morning but my afternoon was clear and I still really wanted to go climbing. I felt like my roadtrip just wasn't ready to end...

The boys finished up our latest gig and when we moved the stuff one of them had some personal business to go take care of so Kieran and I siezed the opportunity to get some pitches in!!

We ditched this view....





For this one... (The Chief)




The Squaw


On the way in from the parking lot we ran into "Micro Mark". I asked him WTF are you doing here dude???? I said you should be in the valley!!!!! He laughed and smiled and says I love this sh!t man!!! He asks us where we are going and I said penny lane! He says cool i'm going there too! He split off at one point to go set up a top rope from above.

Up Up and Away 5.9 was free and I love this rig so I racked up quickly.. (member this one Tami?)


Just as I was about to set off, who should toss a rope over but Mark.. he was working the 13a prow “To Be Exposed” next to up up and away.. This Sonnie Trotter FA looked desperately thin on gear but mark had one decent piece in and a couple average ones… I chit chatted with Mark a bit and ate the crack for breakfast. I instantly appreciated Squamish granite that much more. Every lock was solid and every foot was bomber and grainy and felt like it would never slip out… The temperatures were amazing! 6 to 7 degrees (celcius) max and the friction was all-time…

I LOVE SQUAMISH GRANITE!!!!!!!

I flowed through the crux without a single hesitation and placed less gear than I ever have on that upper section. Kieran seconded it with ease and while he was taking it down I got to watch Mark try the crux on TBE. He flowed through the moves and seemingly was pasting his feet on nothing with no hands until he slowly barn doored off.

We left Mark to his project and headed over to Partners in Crime 11a


Kieran tried it a couple times but the opening moves were wet so he didn’t want to commit. We decided to try Climb and Punishment 10d instead.
He loved this one but got shut down at the crux, and whipped on the pin.



While he was hanging I had time for a few photos..



The trees were sporting their fall colours



It took Kieran quite a while to get it done and it was pretty much dark by the time I took it down. I pretty much got it clean besides having to fight a couple cams that Kieran shoved in there….

We packed up and headed back to the car so we could go pick Mark up. We went over to his place and ran into him as he was headed towards the Cliffside. I suggested that we go to the brew pub because the food was at least passable there vs Cliffside…

Mark must know a few people at the pub because we got the hugest plate of nachos I have ever personally witnessed at the brew pub…. It is amazing to converse with someone who has just as much stoke as you do. I felt as if we had a lot in common even if he is playing at an infinitely higher level…

He told us about his ascent of Genus Loci and how it was probably one of the coolest things he had done all summer.. I asked him if he liked it so much that he would go lead it again, but he said he would rather second it for a friend if they were trying to get the redpoint… ;)

I took this cheesy photo…



Kieran and I both had fun hanging out with Mark. Next morning it was back to work... ;)

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 2, 2012 - 02:40am PT
Way to get after it Mike! But, uh, er, isn't there another thread that could benefit from your photos & stories! Wahaha


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 02:45am PT
allready cross posted buddy :)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 2, 2012 - 02:46am PT
Excellent.
cowpoke

climber
Nov 2, 2012 - 04:32am PT
just read and viewed my way through this -- I am so jealous.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 10:48am PT
Thanks cowpoke it was amazing!!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2012 - 12:39am PT
Here is Luke with the Kingfisher that Silver asked me to buy for him to celebrate his recent ascent of the Muir Wall

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Nov 3, 2012 - 01:32am PT
A camera is your weapon of choice (the bigger the better). Stay home next time.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2012 - 01:40am PT
???????

i guess it wouldn't be a supertopo thread without at least a couple negative comments...
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 3, 2012 - 01:52am PT
Hey Mike;
Looks like you sure had FUN!

I sure wish we could have hooked up to climb,
but due to circumstances...

:(
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2012 - 02:11am PT
yup... that's how things go... I want to come out to Vegas this winter so hopefully your shoulder is feeling better by then!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
A little preview of the new HDR method i'm using...

El Cap







Middle Cathedral







Relic at Tenaya Lake






Tuloumne Meadows






Solarium v4 Happy's, Bishop





Relic on Solarium
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
Bump ;)
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 16, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
HDR experimentation is like masturbation, it may be fun, but there's no need to show it to your friends.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
Lol




Buttermilks 360


Edit






Another ghost for Ghost
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
Capt. got me thinking about Bishop.. so here's another one from the buttermilks

??? on Ironman v4?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Flying out in less than 48hours!!!! Stoked!! See ya'll at Facelift!!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 2, 2013 - 09:47am PT
Sandra and her very own Biggest Mike Possible.
Sandra and her very own Biggest Mike Possible.
Credit: mouse from merced
Yeah, one for me and one for Sandra, eh?  We're dried oot.
Yeah, one for me and one for Sandra, eh? We're dried oot.
Credit: mouse from merced
Repeat after hossjulia...
Repeat after hossjulia...
Credit: mouse from merced
I saw youse guys in the Village Store, then I split to take the Simpsons to Midpines.
So how'd it go in Tuolumne, eh?
What aboot Fairview?

I had an excellent time with the other two Canadians with whom I became acquainted at Facelift, namely Kelly and Kieran.
Special K from Kanada.
Special K from Kanada.
Credit: mouse from merced
Kelly and Big Mike at Yellow Pines one morning.
Kelly and Big Mike at Yellow Pines one morning.
Credit: mouse from merced
Big Mike and mighty Mo.
Big Mike and mighty Mo.
Credit: mouse from merced
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
Nice pics Mouse!! Thanks. We got shut down in Tuloumne, by the government!! We did end up having a great time at the gorge, with a beautiful soak at the tubs on the way back. Then we had to get on a plane!!

Speaking of planes, i'm getting on one on thursday morning. I'm flying into sacramento to meet Weege, and we have a date with the captain!!

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 30, 2014 - 12:31am PT
I wish!

Have fun Mikey!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Apr 30, 2014 - 12:44am PT
Mike and Weege,
Have a great time, looking forward to the TR, place needs more climbing content.
Tad
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Apr 30, 2014 - 07:18am PT
whaaaaat!
so jealous.
have a good flight and a great climb. TR must follow
Fish Finder

Social climber
Apr 30, 2014 - 08:18am PT
hey mike


if the pass opens


ill come visit if i can



my best to weeg



have the time of your life

Edit: please tell sandra that I said happy birthday !

Edit: where the hell is brownie?

Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Apr 30, 2014 - 09:31am PT
Yo Mike, perhaps I'll meet you this weekend! Not sure what CV has planned out logistically but if you're up at the Leap I may see you there or in P-ville. If I don't best wishes to you two in the Valley.

Charlie D.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Apr 30, 2014 - 09:50am PT
this dream kicks asse
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Apr 30, 2014 - 09:54am PT
YAY. . . weeg goes from The Silent Partner to The Big Tall Drink Of Water Partner

That's pretty cool.

I hope youz dadz iz gwan look up TheWonderBrawn while you're there!

OXOXOXOXO
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2014 - 10:42am PT

Have a great time, looking forward to the TR, place needs more climbing content.
Tad

Thanks Tad!! Will do!


whaaaaat!
so jealous.
have a good flight and a great climb. TR must follow

Thanks Anita! Hope you are feeling ok!

Gregg- It would be rad to see you if it works out! I will pass on your greeting which will be much appreciated! Brownie is stuck in Kelowna! He's got a good gig he just couldn't pass up..

Ryan!!! Facelift right!!

Charlie D- it would be rad to meet you. Maybe tonight?

YAY. . . weeg goes from The Silent Partner to The Big Tall Drink Of Water Partner

That's pretty cool.

I hope youz dadz iz gwan look up TheWonderBrawn while you're there!

OXOXOXOXO


I think i'll make a point of running in to Werner this time. On the ground of course!! Lol

As if i just posted this on takeoff!! Technology is crazy these days..
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
May 1, 2014 - 10:46am PT
Kick some ass bro, stoked for you and Weege!
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
May 1, 2014 - 10:52am PT
I think i'll make a point of running in to Werner this time. On the ground of course!! Lol

Yeah. . . on the HORIZONAL . . . good idea!

:-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2014 - 11:11am PT
Thanks Brandon! Hope your trip works out sweet!

I was privileged to stay at Ghost at Mari's house last evening.

Hanging out on their lovely back porch.


Mari and Ghost's fabulous pork tacos


Wayno and his lovely wife Masha and Steve and Mimi joined us as well.


Lots of fun was had and the conversation was very climbing oriented.. It was great to finally meet Steve and Mimi!!

Mari was kind enough to drive me to sea tac this morning.


It's a beautiful day here in Seattle!!

this just in

climber
north fork
May 1, 2014 - 11:28am PT
Yeah buddy! California awaits.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 1, 2014 - 11:38am PT
Nice Mike! Killer crew at dinner there!

Wish I woulda seen ya before u took off.

Good luck bro!

One move at a time. Have fun!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 1, 2014 - 12:00pm PT
Have a safe trip...
W.L.

climber
May 1, 2014 - 12:08pm PT
have a safe trip, brother!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 2, 2014 - 01:13am PT
So did you get some pitches in at the Leap, Mike?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 2, 2014 - 01:21am PT
I got a report that after a day of travel BM & NW had time for a casual jaunt up Bears reach @ lovers. Not sure how many pitches it is bit I think it's about a 600' route so it sounds like the team is gelling pretty good!

Oh, & I'm super jealous, been wanting to do that one since I first saw footage of Dano speed soloing it in Masters of stone!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2014 - 01:35am PT
Guyman- Thanks! Injury Tr is forthcoming dude! Just need a good ending ;) i'm working on the blockbuster finish material now.. ;)

Thanks W.L. Can't wait to get out with you!!


Ryan, three pitches of hollow flakes!! Lol i did not want to see if my gear was going to hold? Or knock off some flakes! So i didn't fall! Lol

Wayno- heck ya buddy!!

I'm gonna play this all teaser like this time and just put up a couple photos here and there when i get a chance.

Lover's Leap



Chuck at the top of east wall.

T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
May 2, 2014 - 01:44am PT
Sweet!!!
Last time I put boot to the Leap was 77, need to get back for some dike hikes.
When do you guys head to the Ditch?
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
May 2, 2014 - 02:49am PT
Kick ass and have fun down there in the deep south!

This a wonderful tale about the positive power climbing has over us!
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
May 2, 2014 - 10:28am PT
No more hospitals please, Big Mike! Have fun...
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 2, 2014 - 12:13pm PT
I was privileged to stay at Ghost at Mari's house last evening.

Privilege was ours. You're welcome anytime.

Have fun down there, and keep the pictures coming.
W.L.

climber
May 2, 2014 - 12:49pm PT



jyeah! Get after it gentlemen, it's going to be a great trip for you guys!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2014 - 02:56pm PT

Weege tells me they are sills Tad! And yes you must return. I quite enjoyed my visit. Just about to jump in the truck and head off to the ditch now!

Right on Todd! Thanks! Sometimes you gotta work to get back to the stuff you love!! Thank god for ski patrol and modern medicine/gf strong! If not for that i'd still be in a chair. Perhaps permanently.

Phylp, that's the goal!! ;)

Thanks Dave! And thanks for the rad dinner party!!

Too funny W!

I took a couple pics of weege's fantastic house today.

The Kitchen


The Abode

thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
May 2, 2014 - 03:37pm PT
Yabuddy! So Stoked for you guys. Just so ya know my cautionary advice over the past few weeks may have seemed doubtful but it was mostly out of jealousy but also because I wanted to shed light on the hazards of starting up a wall with focus on the destination rather then the journey.

Hope you guys enjoy every minute.

You got this!

#staygold
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
May 5, 2014 - 11:54am PT
This is awesome.

Mike, your stoke is so obvious and contagious.

Thanks gang!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
May 5, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
A sill is just a dike that took the easy way out.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2014 - 12:46am PT
^^^^^^^ lol!!!

Thanks Bruce!

Thanks Luke. You were so right dude. Luckily it all worked out for the best.


We rolled into the Valley on a beautiful friday afternoon.

Bridalveil fall was pumping!

Well more than i've ever witnessed in the fall..


The nose was ready for suitors. We could only find one party.


After assessing the situation in the meadows we retired to our bivy for the evening.

thebravecowboy

climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
May 7, 2014 - 12:49am PT
Ahhhhhwoooo! Beautiful images Big Mike! Haz fun! Climb hard and safe and strong!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2014 - 09:52pm PT
Saturday morning Weege and I combined our arsenal to figure out our rack for the nose.


I had yet to witness this sight in person but was none the less amazed as usual...

Yosemite Falls


After we got sorted we headed to the bride for our blast. We saw Mickey and Brian, and they offered to help us with our bags.

I started to put the gear bag on my back and Briham offered to carry it for me! I couldn't pass up that offer. I owe you bigtime man!!

My personal Sherpa and his beautiful girl.


I got the haul team to pose for a photo at the base of pine line


Brian on the left, followed by Mickey's lovely Mother, then whitemeat himself and his awesome father Mark. Chuck d aka Norwegian brought up the big loads!!

I led the first pitch of Pine Line and the 4th class to the base of the nose. The haul wad tough but manageable with my 2:1 set up.

When Chuck arrived i realized that i had forgot my aiders!!

We decided to descend for the night and get a last decent night's sleep before an early start.

I felt like a dumbass..

this just in

climber
north fork
May 7, 2014 - 10:21pm PT
Man, forgot the aiders? That sucks. My brother and I reached the base of Tollhouse once only to realize we left the rope in the truck. F*#k. Great pics and get that toe healed!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2014 - 02:08am PT
Ya dude.. It did suck. Now i get checklists!! Lol

Sunday morning was gorgeous.


El cap meadow was very inviting.


We soloed back up the fourth class to the bags. It seemed much easier on the way up then the onsite on the way down... Lol!

As i neared the bags, i started to see dried raspberries poking out everywhere and i knew that was bad....

It seems the rodents had a feast at our expense...


Weege said, fvck this. I'm over this wall sh!t! Let's go freclimbing!!

So we went and did Bishops Terrace.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 9, 2014 - 02:28am PT
Lol, Mike. I think my first several attempts at a wall ended somewhat like that.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2014 - 02:19am PT

Thanks Wayno! We just need to get focused on the goal and look past all the problems. Next time right Weege??!!!

The daily scene on the way back to the bivy.


With our freeclimbing agenda set, we were stoked! We decided to do Superslide 5.9 which was really fun!

Weege at the first belay.


Looking up at the third pitch.


Weege on the third pitch


Me following the 5th

Photo Chuck V!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 10, 2014 - 03:21am PT
Sick shots Mike!!

Keep lapping out man! Awesome seeing you get some mileage!

How was royal arches??


Edit- Looking good Norwegian!
Fish Finder

Social climber
May 10, 2014 - 08:52am PT
Big Mike and his Big Toe

sorry I couldnt hook up Big Mike

That damn pass is like and ex girlfriend

its closed

its open

its closed

its open

the last thing I wanna do is get stuck there or have to go the long way

Hope your having the time of your life!!!!!!!
Sanskara

climber
May 10, 2014 - 09:25am PT
Big Mike and Weeg..

Thanks for the stoke. And glad you are both out having fun. It would seem you have both urned it as of late.

Good to see Weeg is out putting a smile on that face.

All the sudden my foot is feeling much better. Not outa the woods yet. Maybe a trip to Squamish this fall unless I am told the conditions suck?

Just maybe though as I wanna go to Cody, Cham, or Newfoundland this winter ice climbing.

Speaking of feet how is the toe?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
Ryan, Ra was awesome! But i'm not at that part or the story yet. Lol

Gregg, no worries brother! I understand!! Fickle she is.. I can't wait to see you in fall!

Sansk- sweet dude! It'd be rad to have you come out! Toe is still f*#ked.. Lol.


Going to pat an jack now!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 10, 2014 - 02:20pm PT
Toe is still f*#ked.. Lol.

I'm right there with you, buddy. I had a major gout attack in my elbow on Sunday-Monday. By Tuesday it hit my toe. The elbow is getting better but the toe is still fukked. I worked through it yesterday and I still have two busy nights ahead. Hurts like hell, but you get used to it somehow. I'm not sure how or why, but we just move forward.

Peace out, Bro.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
May 10, 2014 - 09:10pm PT
it was a good trip, Big Mike.
a scaled-down version of our goal,

even though we did not achieve the summit of el cap,
our climb encouraged you along a treacherous path
from peril to leading valley cracks.

your progress over the past year is so very commendable;
i doubt that i'd have the resolve to surmount
the obstacles that you have bravely overcome.

we shared some incredible climbs, good food, enjoyable bivies,
and other general valley-dirtbag commodities.

keep up the strong strides in your recovery,
have a good remainder of your trip,
and it was premium to meet you.
Credit: Norwegian



JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
May 10, 2014 - 10:16pm PT
Casa de Weege looks awesome.
Big Mike looking strong.
Great to see you guys having a blast in the Center of the Universe.
Cheers to you both!
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
May 10, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
mike just don't tell them the
part about where i ate all the chocolate
the first day
and constantly drank all of the beer
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2014 - 01:57am PT
That sux Wayno!! At least i'm only going climbing!! Lol


i doubt that i'd have the resolve to surmount
the obstacles that you have bravely overcome.

You do. You have your own obstacles at the moment. You can do this dude. Be strong and keep your family tight.


and it was premium to meet you.

And you sir!! I look forward to our next adventure!!


Joeyf- i'm feeling strong thank you. It was good to help put a smile on weege's face.

He says i re-inspired his love affair with climbing. I'm truly humbled if that is the case, i try and pass off the stoke as much as possible.

Weege, i would never say such things.. But it seems you already did.. Lol. I found some more pistachio toffee in the chocolate covered expresso beans!!




After Superslide Weege was still amped to climb, but i was tired so we went to camp 4 and met our fellow campers.

We met Andy and he was keen to climb, so we headed up to Henley Quits on the Camp 4 wall.

Sentinel from the rock couch


Chuck on Henley Quits.


Andy seems unsure as to why he's holding the rope if chuck wasn't gonna put any gear in... Lol

The next morning we went to El Cap meadow to check out the snow.



Halfdome with snow


I'm currently in North Fork and thisjustin and i are gonna hit up Big Sleep dome in the morning!!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
May 12, 2014 - 03:16am PT
Beautiful pic of the captain; amazing how it looks in different light.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
May 12, 2014 - 03:25am PT
the captain looks like it is exfoliating,
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2014 - 11:35am PT
Thx John! I love seeing the captain in all it's different colors!

Sprock- it is! Lol

After a nice shower at currie we headed back to c4. We ran into Andy on his way to currie himself and chuck convinced him to go climbing.

I was a little skeptical since i had been promised a rest day, but chuck said it was a "short" approach and this rig sounded heinous so i just had to see it.

Turns out Chuck didn't exactly know where he was going.. Lol

Looking up at Royal Arches (? Is that also the name of the arches or just the climb next to them??)


After half an hour thrashing along the wall at the base of the arches, the parapalegic finally fell on his ass and got a little frustrated before he actually showed up at the base of the climb.. Lol

10:96 (10d) did indeed look Heinous.


Chuck getting into the maw


After we went to the village and the falls were pumping!!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
May 12, 2014 - 05:58pm PT
Nice!!!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 12, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
Big Mike..... One super good guy, Thank you for finding my friend Katie a partner.

I got a two word txt from her.... "I'm stoked"... was all it said.


THX

Guy Keesee



Sanskara

climber
May 12, 2014 - 06:46pm PT
Awesome photos!

More, even if they are the shitty ones we don't care port em up. So long as they are not pictures of the Romey's vacation to the valley dog on roof and all we font care.

It's climbing!

Been very carefully walking around without my boot the last couple days. I actually just put it back on fir the first time in 24 hrs. I'm still using crutches but I have walked on both feet clear across the house more times than I can count now and slept either it off!

I can smell the rock again. Provide more stoke before I get some stupid idea to get a full time job now that I'm used to not climbing every day and see I won't melt or hang myself..
Relic

Social climber
Weenie
May 13, 2014 - 03:01am PT
DID YOU GET TO CLIMB HENLEY QUITS AND 10.96 MIKE? ??????

BAD-ASS!!!!!!!!!11!!!!!!!!1!
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
May 13, 2014 - 10:12am PT
mike i'm still brewing the
last of that pinon-nut flavored coffee that we bought;
anna and maki were dropping complaints
all morning in report to
the overwhelming fragrance dominating our scene.

so i told them about the first morning
there in the sand-lot....

it was my first experience with these coffee grounds
so i added a 'little' extra to the press pot
because i hate weak coffee,
charged the dragonfly
and poured scalding hot water
over the grounds,

sat content in that merced river canyon
during the steep.

then i poured you a cup
and thrust it in thru your tent door,
and i remember your
look of astonishment as that
scent and sharp taste
attacked your fragile
canadian palate
and you downed it like a man
though i could tell that
you wished it was a gently
cup of tea with sugar and cream
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
May 13, 2014 - 10:12am PT
mike i'm still brewing the
last of that pinon-nut flavored coffee that we bought;
anna and maki were dropping complaints
all morning in report to
the overwhelming fragrance dominating our scene.

so i told them about that first morning
there in the sand-lot....

it was my first experience with these coffee grounds
so i added a 'little' extra to the press pot
because i hate weak coffee,
charged the dragonfly
and poured scalding hot water
over the grounds,

sat content in that merced river canyon
during the steep.

then i poured you a cup
and thrust it in thru your tent door,
and i remember your
look of astonishment as that
scent and sharp taste
attacked your fragile
canadian palate
and you downed it like a man
though i could tell that
you wished it was a gently
cup of tea with sugar and cream
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
May 13, 2014 - 10:15am PT
that sounds like a pretty sweet morning coffee experience
not all canadian palates are fragile!
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
May 13, 2014 - 11:49am PT
Great pics, Big Mike. Looks like a great trip!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 13, 2014 - 12:24pm PT
Just cuz.
Post 420.
Live it up bro.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
I got a two word txt from her.... "I'm stoked"... was all it said.

Ya Guy!! I'm stoked too. Katie is rad and it was super fun to hang out with her. I hope her and Andy hook up! Lol

More, even if they are the shitty ones we don't care port em up. So long as they are not pictures of the Romey's vacation to the valley dog on roof and all we font care.

They're coming!! This is just a cursory teaser version. I just don't have time to dedicate to crafting the tale at the moment. Gotta save some bangers for the TR bro!!

Great to hear you're getting back on your feet!


Relic- you would think that wouldn't you?? Lol let's go for a beer when i get home and you can get the spraydown in person! Lol

Twas a strong cup indeed Chuck. I never professed to be much of a coffee drinker.. Lol

It sure woke me up tho!! Say hi to Ana and Maki for me! They will be making an appearance here shortly!


that sounds like a pretty sweet morning coffee experience
not all canadian palates are fragile!


Lol. I'm a pussy... Lol you should roll with chuck sometime Anita! He brews a good cup and gives a solid belay!

Thanks Phylp!! It's not over yet!!

Jefe, i love your style bro! Gonna have to come visit you and do an Arizona tr one of these days!! Sounds like feb is a good time to come?

Wednesday morning Chuck's family showed up, so he hung with them, but was gracious enough to drop Andy and I off at Manure Pile so we could do after six.

Andy on p3 after six


Looking over at east buttress



We walked back after because no one would pick us up.. Lol that's when my toe got destroyed..

Andy was still keen to climb when we got back so we went bouldering.

Andy sending the Glass Pyramid Arete V0
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2014 - 06:20pm PT

Thursday since my toe was hooped anyways, i met up with Chuck and fam at the cafeteria.

Tara helped me figure out to do with my toe and gave me some bacteen to keep it clean.

I suggested we go up to glacier point since they'd never been there.

The Weege family at the tunnel overlook.


Ana with Liberty Cap and Nevada falls.


Maki and Halfdome/Liberty/Nevada.


The family V and Yosemite Falls.


I'm jumping on a plane to the PNW now. More on it's way soon!

Thanks for everything Dave and Mari, Chuck & Tara and Justin&Mindy!!

I couldn't have asked for a radder trip!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 15, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
Right on Mike!! We'll be seeing you soon!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
Yeehaw buddy!! Wanna come down to index?? Lol

I forgot to mention both Jeremy and Jordan Ross helped make my vacation rad too!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 15, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
I wish Mike, was just down there that way the other day actually.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
I heard you went bouldering!!
Katiekorn

Sport climber
May 16, 2014 - 10:29am PT
Credit: Katiekorn

Andy and I climbed snake dike on Wednesday... Here is Andy at the top

Credit: Katiekorn
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 10:35am PT
Ya Katie!! Nice! Glad to hear you guys got it done!! So cool to meet you girl! Keep climbing! You have the right attitude to go far in this crazy sport!

Tell that fvcking limey who just fingered me, Thanks for everything and hopefully i'll see both of you guys in squamish soon!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
Friday was a day I had waited for a long time. My toe was still hooped but there was no way I wasn't going to climb Royal Arches that day.

Ever since i had looked at the topo and read the history of this climb I had secretly lusted after it. I know it's only 5.7 and there is a lot of fourth class on the lower half, but it's in such an amazing setting and i love running up easy climbs!

Me at the fourth pitch belay


After i finished this pitch i brought Andy up and the next party wasn't far behind. After Andy set off i chatted with the leader a bit and asked if we were slowing them up.

"Naw, it's all good" he replied "I'm just stoked i can keep up with a party of two with these two followers!"

I told him it probably wouldn't be hard to keep up with a crack noob and a paraplegic... Lol

Here he is on the next pitch.


When we reached the next belay he asked if i was Big Mike. I said "Ya, who are you??"

"The other Ed H" he replied.. Obviously he put 2 and 2 together... Lol

We made good time until the pendulum where we ran into an extremely slow party.

When Andy got to the belay, i said "it's lunchtime buddy!" So we ate on the nice ledge.


The views up there are nothing short of stunning..

Other ed h reaching the traverse belay.

Andy on the second to last pitch before the raps.


What a day! Can't wait to take Sandra up it and hit the pools next time!!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
May 16, 2014 - 02:24pm PT
Sweet cali run Mike!

Chuck is straight up a badass wyde climber, glad he got to get on the "hard" stuff.

Dude is solid.

Badass!@
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
Thanks Josh! Chuck needs to get out more!! Maybe you can help him with that?? ;)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2014 - 06:06am PT
Just got home about an hour ago.. What a trip man! Capped it off today with an afternoon at Index!

Thanks Mari!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 17, 2014 - 11:13am PT
Just got home about an hour ago.. What a trip man! Capped it off today with an afternoon at Index!
Thanks Mari!

Mari said she enjoyed it too.

Supertopo (and rec.climbing before it) may have a few a-holes under its umbrella, but it's an incredible place nonetheless. No better example of that than your trip Mike. Pretty much everyone you climbed with and hung out with over the last two weeks was someone you had connected with right here.

And its not just you. I think most of us here have a circle of friends we've met through ST or the Wreck. Any of us can say, "Damn, I really would like to take a trip to __." And no matter where that place is, we'll be covered for food, shelter, and partners the whole way. And many of those we stay with and climb with will turn into friends we'll keep for the rest of our lives.

/end sermon/

You're probably going to sleep in till mid-afternoon, so I'll post a couple shots of the climb you did yesterday with Mari. Roger's Corner is one of the few moderate routes at Index (5.9? 5.8?) and gets a lot of traffic, so I'm glad you guys got on it without having to wait in line. And she said she hauled your tired bones up the Breakfast of Champions finish. So now you've had a taste of "Index 10a", too.

Mari pulling into the last steep bit on Roger's Corner
Mari pulling into the last steep bit on Roger's Corner
Credit: Ghost

Cruising to the belay.
Cruising to the belay.
Credit: Ghost

See ya next weekend.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
Cool Ghost! Thanks for those pics. Sandra used to give me so much crap about all the time i spent here before my injury. It seems now she's realizing just how well it's payed off! :)

My trip may be over but the "Live" trip report continues! Ok, i know it's not quite the same as when it was actually live, but i get much more enjoyment out of my vacation this way! :)



After out return from RA Andy and i sauntered over to Katie's camp to invite her out for some cragging, and she produced Frumy's Ried guide for us to peruse and find the perfect spot. We ended up settling on Pat and Jack's because of the terrain as well as the lack of approach for my poor toe.

I was pretty tired and very little urge to lead anything. Luckily my ropegun Katie decided that Boneheads 10b needed to be climbed.


after we toproped the bottom of Babble On 10a.

How the heck do i climb this thing Mike??


Damn this thing is tiring!!



Unknown climber on the classic Knuckleheads 10b



Is there any sh!tty views in the valley???


classic zone. I loved it!!!
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
May 17, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
Hey Big Mike!

Pleasure climbing with you and Andy on Royal Arches! You got the stoke man! Would love to get a tour of Squamish someday!

Ed
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
Come on up Ed! Just lemme know! I have more bangers of you too, but i'm saving them for the real tr!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
Sunday was my last day in camp four, so Justin graciously drove into the valley to pick me up.

Hanging at Camp 4





I was pretty bagged so packing took too long and i didn't have time to do the alcove swing like we planned.. Doh!!

Justin showed up with his brother Jordan and a puppy he'd just found.

We stopped at a dope brewpub we went to on the way home from the park.

The pano squished the poor waitresses face..

What was the name of that place Justin?
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
May 18, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
such a long, long time to be gone,
and a short time to be there.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 09:21pm PT
I know.. It's like a dream already!!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 18, 2014 - 10:20pm PT
Rad.
All the way around, rad.

All those folks you climbed with, all the locations...
Ghost said it well.

A big tip of the hat to you Big Mike.
Someday bro.


Which reminds me of the name of a massive yacht I saw in a harbor once...
-SOMEDAY CAME-

After your injury Mike, I'd say someday came.

Thanks for sharing.
this just in

climber
north fork
May 18, 2014 - 10:36pm PT
South Gate Brewing Company in Oakhurst. Great food and beer.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
May 18, 2014 - 10:39pm PT
Weege,

I was so struck sonically by Box of Rain before I was 16. Thanks for shaking my head.

This number was the best chaser...



drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 18, 2014 - 10:40pm PT
Awww man, I hate being the last post on a page!

Jefe said
Rad.
All the way around, rad.

All those folks you climbed with, all the locations...
Ghost said it well.

A big tip of the hat to you Big Mike.
Someday bro.


Which reminds me of the name of a massive yacht I saw in a harbor once...
-SOMEDAY CAME-

After your injury Mike, I'd say someday came.

Thanks for sharing.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
I know right??? It's all been worth it. Breaking my back has opened so many doors for me and it's opened my eyes at the same time. It's put me so much more in touch with my body it's insane. I'm more knowledgable about it rather than before when i didn't even know what my TA was much less use it consciously.

Next up, shuteye!

Jeremy Ross on the right.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 18, 2014 - 10:49pm PT
Glad you had a kick ass trip, too bad we didn't get to climb. Next time you are around we will actually have to schedule a few! Seems like you guys are fun to be around :)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
I try V! LOL Sounds good.

Thanks Justin!
L0CKER

Social climber
May 18, 2014 - 11:07pm PT
GO back to CANADA!!!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 11:11pm PT
I'm here man! You're just jealous buddy!! I'll climb with you soon!! Red Rocks must be visited again! Lol
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
May 18, 2014 - 11:16pm PT
And you all should follow, Locker !

It's a good time, going climbing in Squamish and all the other places !

why does the border make you Californians cringe ? WE don't bite... The rangers here point you to the best climbs... If you prefer at gunpoint, that's OK too !
L0CKER

Social climber
May 18, 2014 - 11:18pm PT
I NEVER go to Red Rox.
My MAIN climbing area is Ghost Rocks
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 19, 2014 - 12:35am PT
Ghost Rocks

Damn right!
W.L.

climber
May 19, 2014 - 12:50am PT
Big Mike, if/when you schedule your next Red Rock visit, give me dates so I can get you on the calendar!!!
L0CKER

Social climber
May 19, 2014 - 01:06am PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#358559
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2014 - 01:14am PT
Looks sweet buddy! I'm down! Weston you know it's on. You and dwaine are next on the list after cor.
L0CKER

Social climber
May 19, 2014 - 01:34am PT
That fuker cosmic can't climb worth S#IT!
C#m down and climb with, ME, at Ghost Rock.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2014 - 01:36am PT
Lol. You're on dude!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
Monday morning, i awoke in a tent trailer, feeling like a kid in a candy store. A short perusal of Grahmbo's new guide the evening previous had whetted my appetite to the point of ultimate arousal.

I thought i might pop before we even got to the base of the cliff.

Justin was an amazing host, who's generosity was much appreciated and will be returned ten fold. He took me up to big sleep for my first Shuteye adventure.


Shuteye approach surprise factor...

(It had fallen in the night since other locals had been up the day before without issue.)


The real approach. You Yosemite types who get off the beaten path will crush these!!!

Incomplete Paraplegics from the sea to sky area, tend to find them challenging....

Justin getting racked up for p1 of Moonlight Madness 5.8


Justin following p2


On the sharp end. P3


Justin enjoys the fabulous horns of p4.


The p4 belay. Complete with requisite gear hanging horn.


Shuteye Ridge. Eagle Beaks on the left.


Justin summiting the true peak of Big Sleep. Somehow after all the times he'd been up here he'd never seen the view from the true top. I fixed that! ;)



Topout baby!

Justin Ross photo

After we walked down to crocodile to sample this little number.

Willy, 5.8


The hike back to the car was scenic, but tiring. Lol
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2014 - 03:19pm PT
Thanks Burch!
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
May 20, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
Ah Yeah. I just missed you by a day out there at big sleep.

glad you got a tour of the area.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2014 - 05:18pm PT
Thanks Splitclimber! Were you out there with Mucci?
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
May 20, 2014 - 05:27pm PT
Man, that corner at crocodile is pretty awesome! Soo splitter for 5.8 at shuteye.

Those bolted routes on the right arete were good too.

What a tour you got Big Mike, the ross Bro's got it all wired.

cheers!

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2014 - 05:49pm PT
Ya dude! That corner was sweet! No slouch at 5.8 either!

I was joking that i couldn't even pay for better guides!! :)
this just in

climber
north fork
May 20, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
Yeah, I was quite impressed by Willy Nilly. Isn't as straight forward as it looks from the ground, like most climbs. So many good laughs and climbs with the tallest Canadian I know. The tour will continue in September! I needed that, but hard to complain about a shoulder when Mike can pull the I was in a wheelchair 15 months ago card, LOL. Don't break your back or neck Factor 2 Mike.
Oh yeah write a TR already, shit!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2014 - 10:40pm PT
Yes.. Willy Nilly. I was in the car so no book was handy..

The tr?? I gotta finish the teaser first bro! Lol
RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 20, 2014 - 11:21pm PT
Rad, I want shuteye granite!! It looks so badass!!!!
this just in

climber
north fork
May 21, 2014 - 01:19am PT
Anytime Ryan, Mike tells me you are the manager at my favorite restaurant in Whistler. Dude I knew you looked familiar.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
Ya you do Ryan!!

Tuesday morning a trip to the Grey Eagle area was planned and Justin's Bro Jeremy\
was recruited as rope gun since he'd done the climb before and would be happy to lead
in case both of us got snail eye! lol

Sierra spring water to start our day. MMM tasty.


Road to Grey Eagle


Beauty views on the drive up there..


The Ross boys ready for the death march


First peek at the goods


Jeremy getting started on P1 of Captain Obvious 5.8




Karate Chop!


Biggest pinecone i've ever seen!!


Jeremy is a self admitted chalk whore. It didn't seem that bad to me, until
he asked me to pass him his chalk storage unit when we were cragging and being lazy i offered him mine instead.

He stared at me as if i had just spoken in some alien toungue and started making moves towards his own powder satchel.
I quickly corrected my e