Going back to Cali!


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Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 6, 2012 - 02:20am PT
We booked our tickets yesterday! So STOKED!!

The plan is to go to Yosemite... It will be my first time in the valley. So I was wondering what the locals would say shouldn't be missed for a first timer?

I'm a 10+ leader here in Squamish, which translates to about 5.9 down there from what I hear. So if you were me what would you put on your ticklist? What about eats? Camping if camp 4 is a nightmare?

To take a page from Jeremy's book, WOO HOO!!! So STOKED!!!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:23am PT
Do not say Cali after the plane lands

Social climber
joshua tree
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:37am PT
Hey BigM
I love that video. Welcome to California don't forget to pay your visitors tax.
The stuff is bigger than it looks. Start out small and see how you fare
Try Reed's pinnacle. my favorite 5.9 is the Steck-Salathe. It's got everything!
Enjoy! Leave no trace.

Jus Recomend'in
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:39am PT
Jon Beck offers some damn good advice. Heed it.


Boulder climber
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:52am PT
Forget the valley, I would take advantage of the high country still being open.
the Fet

Oct 6, 2012 - 02:53am PT
It's hard to beat the standard recommended climbs Sure they can be crowded but try for off times, and go to an area (manure pile, 5 open books, church bowl) with a couple options and do the one with the least/no people on it.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/yosemite.html (Good climbs for your first week in Yosemite).

Nutcracker is a must just for the history.

Royal Arches is also historical. Lots of easy pitches. Perhaps a good warm up for you.

Commitment is great, but as mentioned above just go to 5 open books and jump on what's open.

Snake Dike is a long hike for 8 easy/moderate pitches but it's incredibly fun and the summit of half dome is one of the most amazing places on the planet.

East Buttress of Middle Cathedral isn't on that list but should be.

If the falls are going do the easy quick walks to Bridaveil and Lower Yosemite on a rest day or afternoon. Take pics at tunnel view and when you are up there walk to the top of the Rostrum and peak over the edge.

You must walk to the base of El Cap! And maybe do some of the fun single pitch base climbs (e.g. La Cosita left 5.7, Little John Right 5.8).
Delhi Dog

Good Question...
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:57am PT

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Oct 6, 2012 - 03:34am PT
PTPP is looking for a PARTNER!


Oct 6, 2012 - 03:41am PT
+1 what beotch said. Head up to Tuolumne one day & do cathedral peak, then go drink a beer in the meadows. Seriously.

I'm stoked for you guys, you are gonna be blown away. If u can get Relic away from the boulders in C4 that is :-)

Heard Disneyland is pretty sweet too.

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 6, 2012 - 03:47am PT
Hey you Valley locals, give these guys the love. I have met them , they are real, they deserve a good time. Show them our graciousness and you will be rewarded. Besides, they climb, and can get it done if it need be.

Peace, out.



some eastside hovel
Oct 6, 2012 - 09:18am PT
^^^Yup,what Jon Beck said as well as what RyanD said.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 6, 2012 - 10:12am PT
Mike, this is a quick list off the top of my head. There's not a lot of bad climbing in the Valley, so don't stick to what's only in the "selects" type guide books.

- Bishop's
- Sunnyside Jamcrack
- Bummer
- lazy Bum
- East Butress of MCR
- NE Butress of HCR
- Higher Cathedral Spire
- Lower Cathedral Spire
- Central Pillar of Frenzy
- Steck - Salathe
- Royal Arches
- Braille Book
- Serenity / Sons of Yesterday
- Bev's Tower
- Outer Limits
- Wheat Thin
- Catchy
- Base of El Cap free routes
- New Diversions
- Arch Rock 5.10's


- North Face of Fairview
- Cathedral Peak
- Hobbit Book (runout 5.7 part)
- Tenaya Peak

Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 6, 2012 - 10:58am PT
Coming to Yosemite for the first time and NOT going to the Valley would be dumb on a grand scale. The Meadows is cool and all that but there is only one Yosemite in all the world. There are lots and lots of knobby slabs lying about, elsewhere. Plus its cold at night up there and camping is problematic.

Do Camp 4. Climb the Valley classics, which ever routes you choose, you'll be in The Vally. Ahhhhh AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!


Oct 6, 2012 - 11:00am PT
It's "Kali" and watch out for the wolves....
the Fet

Oct 6, 2012 - 11:05am PT
When are u coming and for how long?

If its November and 120 to the meadows is open I'd say spend a day or two in the meadows (fiarview dome RR)and the rest in the valley.

Another rest day activity see the big trees, wawona if u have time, check out glacier point on the way there. With less time check the smaller grove off 120.

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:21am PT
I'm too scared to go now. I think I'll send my cat on the plane with you and I'll go Sasquatch hunting with Luke.

Somewhere out there
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:36am PT
What ever you do spend as little time on the approach as possible. Manure Pile and Cookie Cliff have the quickest approaches for my money. Have fun and do as much climbing as your body will absorb.



Avg time to climb route: 1 hour
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 20 minutes
Number of pitches: 1
Height of route: 200'
Every 5.10 climber must do this route. Yosemite Climber called Outer Limits "perhaps the most sought after two-pitch climb in Yosemite." The route starts with what appears to be a lieback flake, but is actually a pumpy hand and fist crack. Down low is the technical crux, but it is the steep and pumpy jams up high that stymie most people. It is hard to resist setting a toprope on the first pitch and doing multiple laps. Beware of the polished rock in the first 30 feet.


Avg time to climb route: 2 hours
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 20 minutes
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 270'
This route is sustained at 5.9. The first pitch features a mixture of hand and chimney moves that provide a preview of challenges to come. The second pitch has the two characteristics of a classic Yosemite crack pitch: burly and sustained. This pitch involves a variety of strenuous stems and jams with wide protection. The last pitch is rarely climbed.


Avg time to climb route: 30 minutes
Approach time: 10 minutes
Descent time: 15 minutes
Number of pitches: 1
Height of route: 100'
The scene of one death, the first 20 feet of this stout 5.10a are difficult to protect. Climb the arte past thin protection and move right into the right-facing corner. Lieback and stem the corner to an interesting overhanging stem box. Hand and thin hand jamming past the overhang leads to the bolted anchor. Continue above and right to gain the Wheat Thin belay ledge.


Trad climber
Gliese 581 g
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:38am PT
Very first time in the Valley we were lost and overwhelmed, didn't know what to do. First morning we were waiting in line for a campsite in C4, and Chouinard was waiting in line in front of us. He heard us talking about what to do, and offered up some advice for an easy introduction to Valley climbing:

1. Nutcracker
2. Manure Pile
3. Sunnyside Jam Crack
4. Royal Arches
5. Fairview Dome in Tuolumne Meadows.

We "knocked those bastards off", and felt Sh%t on top of the world. I was 19. At that point, for a kid from the east coast, running into Chouinard at C4 was probably the closest thing I've had to a religious conversion.

He was so helpful, and welcoming, and unassuming. He wasn't trying to prove anything.
this just in

north fork
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:43am PT
Definitely go to the Valley. Moby dick at El Cap base, it's not 5.9 but you got it. If you wanna drive an hour plus south I could show you Shuteye or the southern yosemite area. Great camping, unique climbing, and no crowds. You guys will have a blast and I look forward to your photos.

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 6, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
Steck salathe!!!! Mike we needs do that
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