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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 6, 2012 - 02:20am PT
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We booked our tickets yesterday! So STOKED!!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
The plan is to go to Yosemite... It will be my first time in the valley. So I was wondering what the locals would say shouldn't be missed for a first timer?
I'm a 10+ leader here in Squamish, which translates to about 5.9 down there from what I hear. So if you were me what would you put on your ticklist? What about eats? Camping if camp 4 is a nightmare?
To take a page from Jeremy's book, WOO HOO!!! So STOKED!!!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Do not say Cali after the plane lands
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Hey BigM
I love that video. Welcome to California don't forget to pay your visitors tax.
The stuff is bigger than it looks. Start out small and see how you fare
Try Reed's pinnacle. my favorite 5.9 is the Steck-Salathe. It's got everything!
Enjoy! Leave no trace.
Jus Recomend'in
BB
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Forget the valley, I would take advantage of the high country still being open.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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It's hard to beat the standard recommended climbs Sure they can be crowded but try for off times, and go to an area (manure pile, 5 open books, church bowl) with a couple options and do the one with the least/no people on it.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/yosemite.html (Good climbs for your first week in Yosemite).
Nutcracker is a must just for the history.
Royal Arches is also historical. Lots of easy pitches. Perhaps a good warm up for you.
Commitment is great, but as mentioned above just go to 5 open books and jump on what's open.
Snake Dike is a long hike for 8 easy/moderate pitches but it's incredibly fun and the summit of half dome is one of the most amazing places on the planet.
East Buttress of Middle Cathedral isn't on that list but should be.
If the falls are going do the easy quick walks to Bridaveil and Lower Yosemite on a rest day or afternoon. Take pics at tunnel view and when you are up there walk to the top of the Rostrum and peak over the edge.
You must walk to the base of El Cap! And maybe do some of the fun single pitch base climbs (e.g. La Cosita left 5.7, Little John Right 5.8).
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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+1 what beotch said. Head up to Tuolumne one day & do cathedral peak, then go drink a beer in the meadows. Seriously.
I'm stoked for you guys, you are gonna be blown away. If u can get Relic away from the boulders in C4 that is :-)
Heard Disneyland is pretty sweet too.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Hey you Valley locals, give these guys the love. I have met them , they are real, they deserve a good time. Show them our graciousness and you will be rewarded. Besides, they climb, and can get it done if it need be.
Peace, out.
Wayno.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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^^^Yup,what Jon Beck said as well as what RyanD said.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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It's "Kali" and watch out for the wolves....
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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When are u coming and for how long?
If its November and 120 to the meadows is open I'd say spend a day or two in the meadows (fiarview dome RR)and the rest in the valley.
Another rest day activity see the big trees, wawona if u have time, check out glacier point on the way there. With less time check the smaller grove off 120.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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I'm too scared to go now. I think I'll send my cat on the plane with you and I'll go Sasquatch hunting with Luke.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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What ever you do spend as little time on the approach as possible. Manure Pile and Cookie Cliff have the quickest approaches for my money. Have fun and do as much climbing as your body will absorb.
Cheers
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-The-Cookie-Cliff-Outer-Limits
Avg time to climb route: 1 hour
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 20 minutes
Number of pitches: 1
Height of route: 200'
Overview
Every 5.10 climber must do this route. Yosemite Climber called Outer Limits "perhaps the most sought after two-pitch climb in Yosemite." The route starts with what appears to be a lieback flake, but is actually a pumpy hand and fist crack. Down low is the technical crux, but it is the steep and pumpy jams up high that stymie most people. It is hard to resist setting a toprope on the first pitch and doing multiple laps. Beware of the polished rock in the first 30 feet.
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-The-Cookie-Cliff-Meat-Grinder
Avg time to climb route: 2 hours
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 20 minutes
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 270'
Overview
This route is sustained at 5.9. The first pitch features a mixture of hand and chimney moves that provide a preview of challenges to come. The second pitch has the two characteristics of a classic Yosemite crack pitch: burly and sustained. This pitch involves a variety of strenuous stems and jams with wide protection. The last pitch is rarely climbed.
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-The-Cookie-Cliff-Beverlys-Tower
Avg time to climb route: 30 minutes
Approach time: 10 minutes
Descent time: 15 minutes
Number of pitches: 1
Height of route: 100'
Overview
The scene of one death, the first 20 feet of this stout 5.10a are difficult to protect. Climb the arête past thin protection and move right into the right-facing corner. Lieback and stem the corner to an interesting overhanging stem box. Hand and thin hand jamming past the overhang leads to the bolted anchor. Continue above and right to gain the Wheat Thin belay ledge.
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MudPuppy
Trad climber
Gliese 581 g
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Very first time in the Valley we were lost and overwhelmed, didn't know what to do. First morning we were waiting in line for a campsite in C4, and Chouinard was waiting in line in front of us. He heard us talking about what to do, and offered up some advice for an easy introduction to Valley climbing:
1. Nutcracker
2. Manure Pile
3. Sunnyside Jam Crack
4. Royal Arches
5. Fairview Dome in Tuolumne Meadows.
We "knocked those bastards off", and felt Sh%t on top of the world. I was 19. At that point, for a kid from the east coast, running into Chouinard at C4 was probably the closest thing I've had to a religious conversion.
He was so helpful, and welcoming, and unassuming. He wasn't trying to prove anything.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Definitely go to the Valley. Moby dick at El Cap base, it's not 5.9 but you got it. If you wanna drive an hour plus south I could show you Shuteye or the southern yosemite area. Great camping, unique climbing, and no crowds. You guys will have a blast and I look forward to your photos.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Steck salathe!!!! Mike we needs do that
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Beware of the TOOLs.... much meaner and looking to kill you, not at all like the RCMP.
And as I always tell folks "if you only have time for one climb in the Valley do"
Central Pillar of Frenzy.
Enjoy yourself.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Definitely go to the Valley. Moby dick at El Cap base, it's not 5.9 but you got it. If you wanna drive an hour plus south I could show you Shuteye or the southern yosemite area. Great camping, unique climbing, and no crowds. You guys will have a blast and I look forward to your photos.
Take him up on his offer. I guarantee you WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED. Yes, go see the Valley, but the climbing in SoYo is world class. And yes, you need someone to show you where everything is. It's a climbers paradise.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
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Wow! Thanks guys! I've been singing that song for days, so I thought it would be appropriate for a thread title as well. I promise not to say Cali when I get off the plane. ;) We are coming next weekend so it sounds like at least a couple days in the meadow might be in order.
Justin- Shuteye sounds cool too! With so much to do obviously we won't have time for everything but I would like to meet up at some point if possible.
Maybe we can fit it in.
Hey Dwaine- You gonna be anywhere near the ditch when you are working in the sunshine state?
Steck Salathe eh? I've been warned that my 6'7 carcass might not fit through the narrows....
What no You're gonna die yet? ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Hey Mike, I don't know how strong a leader Relic is but I'll bet you could make it up the Regular NW face of Half Dome if the weather holds. You are a better climber than I was when I first pulled it off. Such a great route.
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