L'Equipement de l'Alpiniste 1900

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Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2017 - 12:20pm PT

The Alpine heritage of the Sunnmøre alps, Norway

Climbing Slogen

https://tv.nrk.no/serie/ut-i-naturen/dvna50001415/15-03-2016

The most famous route "Slogen frå fjorden" (Slogen from the fjord) was climbed by British climbers Raeburn and Ling in 1903.

Below you see Norwegian guide Elias Hogrenning (left) and English climber Douglas Greenough (right) on Slogen 1907. They have climbed the route "Slogen from the west", first climbed by Slingsby in 1899

Norwegian guide Elias Hogrenning &#40;left&#41; and English climber Gr...
Norwegian guide Elias Hogrenning (left) and English climber Greenough (right) on Slogen around 1907. They have climbed the route "Slogen from the west, first climbed by Slingsby in 1899
Credit: Marlow
Elias Hogrenning on the top of Slogen - around 1907
Elias Hogrenning on the top of Slogen - around 1907
Credit: Marlow


Below: About Elias Hogrenning and G. Hastings FA of Trolltinden 1899 (in Norwegian)

ELIAS Hogrenning

* Fødd i1872 på Hogrenning i Loen
* Gift med Johanne Flo frå bruk nr 3 på Nedre-Flo og vart gardbrukar der. Paret fekk 10 born
* Elias Hogrenning leia ei rekkje toppturar og klatreekspedisjonar, mellom anna for W.C Slingsby

I Turrisforeninga si årbok for l9OO finn me i lista over "Nybestigninger" i 1899: Mr. G. Hastings og Elias Monssen Hogrenning foretog en række nye ture i juni og juli. De besteg; Lille Isskarstrnd 22.juni, Pipertind 23. juni, Tviilingtind (øst for Store- tind, døbt af Hastings) 27. juni. Troldtind (døbt af Slingsby i 1898) 29. juni, Durmaalstind 4. juli; paa toppen kl. 4.45 morgen. Derfra traversertes Jækkevarre fra øst til vest med bestigning af den midterste top. 11. juli besteg de Reindalstind.

Åtak på trolltinden

Den vandaste oppstiginga var nok på Troltinden, som dei hadde gienge framom aret før, og som Slingsby hadde meint måtte vere uklivande. No stod dei på Forholtbreden og gløste på sørvesteggja på Trolltinden. I Bergen Fjellmannalags Aarsoversyn 1899, skriv Elias i ein artikkel "Fjellklyvinger" om åtaket på Trolltinden: Det sågfælt ut - og til nærare me kom, til fælare vart det. Det var som fjellet lutte og bøygde seg framyver for å helsa på oss. Og me stod tvihuga. Skulde me våga oss i kast med den faarlege klyving elder late det vera! Sistpå vart me samde om aa prøva ein stad - gjekk det ikkje, fekk me snu um og gaa ned att. Me kraup fyrst opp nokre smaaknausar på bræi, so kom me til fellet. Det var hamrar på hamrar kvar me saag. Me gjekk att og fram og smaug oss uppgjennom rivorne i fellet nett som ikonnen. Soleids gjekk det uppyver lidt um senn, men me kom i knipe paa knipe kvar me skulde upp. Fjellet vart meir og meir bratt. No og daa tenkte me at når knipetaket var yver, skulde fellet leggia seg meir attyver. Men nei! Der stod me i stupande bratte fellet. Ikkje livande skapning å sjå. Berre fiell og jøklar. Og fraa høgdi kom lause issrykke av og til setjande nedyver, dansad om øyro vaare og krasad seg sund med sterkt brak djupt nede. Hepne var me, at ikkje noko av isstykki trefte oss. Me stod der reint raadville. Longt hadde me alt kravlat upp, og å koma nedatt, var mest umogeleg. Det stod no til meg kva me skulde giera. Me laut daa freista koma oss oppyver so langt som raad var, tykte eg. Det er ellest lettare aa gaa upp enn ned. Me kom til fjellblokkar so bratte som husveggen. Me sparkad og klorad kvar me kunde, og balansen måtte vera stød. Eit lite glepp var det same som dauden med ein gong. Eg, som gjekk først, maatte vera stød baade paa hand og fot. Toget vaart var 4O fot langt; eg giekk først og hjelpte so med toget honom etter. Slik giekk det heile fellet uppetter. Men mange gonger var det fælslegt. Ein liten rykk eller sleng til sides elder attyver, og eg hadde ramla ut i lause lufti, teke kameraten min med og baae hadde me vore dødsens om faa sekund. Me arbeidde soleis i 9 timar førn me kom til toppen - hangande etter henderne og sjelvande paa føterne, daa dei som oftast hadde lite aa stydje seg paa. Midt i fellet heldt me middag og sov ein halvtime i ei liti skår. Sengi vaar var baade bratt og faarleg, men det var likevel utrulegt kor den vesle søvnen hjelpte på krefterne.

På toppen

Kl.7 om kvelden stod me i den bleike kveldsoli paa toppen. Og ei underleg kjensla kom yver oss då me tenkte paa at her paa desse heilage steinar hev vel ingen mannafot fyrr vore. Eg bygde varde paa toppen, og me gav oss i ro der uppe vel ein time. So var det aa tenkja paa aa koma nedatt. Gud fylgje oss tilbaka! Gledeleg for dei, fann dei ei brukande rute frå toppen og ned på Stortinddalsbreden, og so var det ein lang, lang veg attende til leiren. Litt seinare i artikkelen kjem fylgjande sukk frå Elias: "Dei engelske ApineClub-karane er no ogso nokre vaaghalsar, som ingen maa gaa til fiells med utan aa ha god øving i det stykket. Dei gjeng der som mange vilde segja var reint uråd å koma fram. Eg vil ikkje med dette segia at nordmannen gjeng attum engelskmannen. For nordmann er no nordmann lell. Eg hev ofte reist saman med dei - og vil vaaga!"

Nemner ikkje sikringsutstyr

Eg finn det verd å legge merke til, at i skildringa av denne vanskeleg klivinga, nemner ikkje Elias eitt ord om kva slags sikringsutstyr dei hadde, utanom ein togende på 40 fot. Då finn du forankring berre der det finst ein bergnase som du kan leggie toget rundt, og då kan det verte langt millom forankringane. Og når den røynde fellmannen Hastings let Elias gå fyrst i toget i denne vanskelege ruta, er det tydeleg at han heldt Elias minst jamgod med seg sjølv.

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 12:09pm PT

Paris Expo 1900 - The Norwegian pavilion

Paris Expo 1900 - The Norwegian pavilion
Paris Expo 1900 - The Norwegian pavilion
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2018 - 06:45am PT

Below is a cowbell I found lately. MLD is Michel Devouassoud (b. 1827 - d. 1921). The bell is from around year 1900, possibly before 1900.

Michel Devouassoud, MLD Chamonix nr 4 1e Qte
Michel Devouassoud, MLD Chamonix nr 4 1e Qte

Michel Devouassoud, MLD Chamonix nr 4 1e Qte
Michel Devouassoud, MLD Chamonix nr 4 1e Qte

Also the Devouassoud ice axe below is supposed to have been made before 1900.

Devouassoud a Chamonix
Devouassoud a Chamonix
Credit: Marlow

In the drawings below you see how the head is linked to the shaft:

Head - shaft assembly
Head - shaft assembly
Credit: Marlow
Head - shaft assembly
Head - shaft assembly
Credit: Marlow
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Feb 11, 2018 - 08:03pm PT




Great stuff Marlow!



Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Feb 11, 2018 - 08:49pm PT
Marlow, did you know that Geoffrey Winthrop Young lives in Vancouver? He is a history professor at UBC, the grandson of Geoffrey Winthrop-Young, and great-grandson of William Cecil Slingsby. And has climbed a little in Norway.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 24, 2018 - 08:44pm PT
We were discussing the Bhend Ultralight crampon early on in this thread and I finally found a picture of it in a 1954-55 Holubar catalog on ebay.


Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2018 - 09:56am PT

Steve.

Thanks for posting the catalog photos.

I recently bought the rock drill bit and cleat you see below among some Fritsch pitons. I think we see the same type of expansion bolt in the first photo you posted, page 5. Do you know who imported Fritsch equipment to USA? I often find Fritsch pitons in America, seldom in Europe.

Rock drill bit and cleat. Expansion bolt.
Rock drill bit and cleat. Expansion bolt.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 25, 2018 - 02:53pm PT
Holubar dealt exclusively with Stubai and had their imported pitons stamped as such. I think that Gerry imported Fritsch early on and so did Sports Chalet among many others. Since Switzerland was less affected by WW II than most other countries it seems that they got a lot of the business formerly dominated by Sporthaus Schuster. I don't have the catalog selection to pinpoint those supply lines after WW II very precisely but it is an area that I am certainly interested in. CCB was also a major exporter of hardware coming from several manufacturers in Switzerland such as Hupfauf and Mischabel.
Those ring bolts strike me as weak and scary for holding real falls. I wonder if they were any good.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2018 - 12:41pm PT

Thanks, Steve, and, yes, scary ringbolts...

Pierre Cachat's ice axe, 1760s (the first known ice axe)...
Ice axe. Pierre Cachat. 1760s. The first known.
Ice axe. Pierre Cachat. 1760s. The first known.
Credit: Marlow

... has a lot in common with a boarding axe (or fire hatchet):
Shand Mason boarding axe or fire hatchet 1850s
Shand Mason boarding axe or fire hatchet 1850s
Credit: eBay
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2018 - 01:09pm PT

Mighty Hiker:

Marlow, did you know that Geoffrey Winthrop Young lives in Vancouver? He is a history professor at UBC, the grandson of Geoffrey Winthrop-Young, and great-grandson of William Cecil Slingsby. And has climbed a little in Norway.

No, I did not know. Very cool... A name and heritage carrying a lot of climbing historical significance...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2018 - 01:25pm PT

A Michael Pfurtscheller demontable ice axe. It's an early one not carrying his name, possibly from the 1880s or before.

Michael Pfurtscheller demontable
Michael Pfurtscheller demontable
Michael Pfurtscheller demontable
Michael Pfurtscheller demontable
Michael Pfurtscheller demontable
Michael Pfurtscheller demontable

Michael Pfurtscheller's forge closed in 1902 and the firm was bought by Werkgenossenschaft Fulpmes that had been started in 1897, and later became Werk Fulpmes, who later in 1960 changed name to Stubai - today Austria Alpin.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 7, 2018 - 03:15pm PT
Nice early ice axe!
I would love to learn more about Austrialpin as they only stamped their hardware MADE IN AUSTRIA and are otherwise rather mysterious.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Mar 7, 2018 - 05:41pm PT




When I look up the history of AustriAlpin, it states that the company was created in 1996 from peoples of Stubai. My question is: Did AustriAlpin exist pre 1996?

All of the old 1950s, 1960s items I have that are marked just "Austria" I believe they are all made by Stubai. I can't find any proof that AustriAlpin existed pre 1990s.



Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2018 - 12:50pm PT

Marty

1960: Modification of name to „Stubai tool industry reg.Gen.m.b.H.“

After 1960 - Stubai
Before 1960 - Werk(gen) Fulpmes and Ralling, Fulpmes
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Mar 9, 2018 - 06:15am PT


Marlow - You may have just solved one of my long time mysteries. Do you happen to have any Werk(gen) Fulpmes and Ralling, Fulpmes 1950s catalogs?

So the Austria items in the 1950s REI catalogs, and the many pitons I have with just a Austria stamp, is made by Werk(gen) Fulpmes and Ralling, Fulpmes. This also means that the pre 1960 Holubar pitons were not made by Stubai (company not formed yet), but from Werk(gen) Fulpmes and Ralling, Fulpmes.

This is great info for sure!

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2018 - 12:31am PT

No, I have no Werk Fulpmes or Ralling Fulpmes catalog.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2018 - 12:52am PT

Michael Pfurtscheller lived in the Stubai valley from 1776 to 1854. He took over an "handelshaus" in 1811. His children and grandchildren continued using his name as their firm name.

The demontable Michael Pfurtscheller ice axe below, and also seen above, was made before there were any logos or names on the axes.

Michael Pfurtscheller demontable
Michael Pfurtscheller demontable

I think the ice axe below is also made before a logo was registered. You can see the name Michael Pfurtscheller, but no logo.

Michael Pfurtscheller
Michael Pfurtscheller
Credit: Marlow
Michael Pfurtscheller
Michael Pfurtscheller
Credit: Marlow


First in 1889 there seems to have been registered firm logos as seen below.

Michael Pfurtscheller
Michael Pfurtscheller
Michael Pfurtscheller
Michael Pfurtscheller

In 1902 the Michael Pfurtscheller firm came to an end. The firm was bought by Wergenossenschaft Fulpmes, which was started in 1897/98, and there was an interesting change of logo.

Here you see the first Michael Pfurtscheller logo seen above with crown, crosses and the letters M and P.

Michael Pfurtscheller logo
Michael Pfurtscheller logo

And here is a Werkgenossenschaft Fulpmes logo with the same crown and crosses, but a change of letters from MP to WG (W for Werk and G for Genossenschaft)

Werkgenossenschaft Fulpmes
Werkgenossenschaft Fulpmes

And here's a piton hammer carrying the crown, crosses and WG logo

Werkgenossenschaft Fulpmes
Werkgenossenschaft Fulpmes
Credit: eBay
Werkgenossenschaft Fulpmes
Werkgenossenschaft Fulpmes
Credit: eBay

Interesting to see from old objects and papers is also that Fulpmes is in between mentioned as Vulpmes and Tulpmes.

Stubai valley smiths at work

Stubai valley smiths at work
Stubai valley smiths at work
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2018 - 07:20am PT

De Saussure is often seen as the first person having the idea of climbing a mountain for the pure reason of getting to the top + science.

In 1543 Conrad Gesner wrote:

“As long as it may please God to grant me life, I will ascend several mountains, or at least one, every year at the season when the flowers are in their glory, partly for the sake of examining them, and partly for the sake of good bodily exercise and mental delight”
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2018 - 10:23am PT

Mountaineering Memories (1919)



This film is a heritage item from Library and Archives Canada and is only available in English.

Travelogue of a scenic trip from Banff to Mount Assiniboine, and the efforts made to climb the heights of this tremendous glacier. This film shows in detail the splendid glory of the Canadian Rocky Mountain scenery.

Source: Library and Archives Canada. Jean-Jacques Joly fonds


Thanks to Jim Brennan for discovering and posting the film on another thread.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2018 - 02:50pm PT

Douglas Freshfield’s acceptance of women in areas that some, such as Leslie Stephen, felt were only for men was publicly demonstrated in 1893, but in a different context to mountaineering. As secretary of the Royal Geographic Society, Freshfield succeeded in getting ladies admitted as members. Lord Curzon fiercely opposed this change and managed, through influence and coercion, to quickly overturn the decision. Freshfield was furious; the society was prepared to prevent the ‘eminent lady traveller Mrs Bishop (Miss Bird)’ and the RGS’s ‘Gold Medallists, the late Mrs Somerville, Lady Franklin, Miss Edwards and Miss North’ becoming members whilst conferring membership on many male members who, in contrast to these women, had contributed little to geographical understanding. The RGS reinstated women in 1913, but Freshfield resigned over the issue and it was ten years before his relationship with the society was restored – he was awarded the Gold Medal for Round Kanchenjunga in 1903. His annoyance with the Society was its inconsistency – they would award women Gold Medals but not membership. A woman introduced Freshfield to mountain exploration; he knew gender was immaterial to making geographical discoveries, as the female Gold Medallists of the society attested to. Whilst Freshfield, unlike Wills, did not overtly encourage women by his writing to go into the hills, his actions with the RGS and his climbs with various women family members show his leanings. The choice of a wife like Gussy, who was self confident and unafraid to air her firm opinions, suggests he was at ease with a greater balance and collaboration between the differing genders.

The vision of manliness as one of self-discipline and control, independent and responsible, was raised to a heroic level in the Alps. In this environment male mountaineers were often portrayed as vanquishing against the odds, displaying patriotism, fortitude, courage and endurance in the face of perilous precipices or immense icefalls. This exaggerated depiction, however, was largely imaginary; it played to what many hoped for – a fantasy for either themselves or their sons. Most men who went to the Alps were not AC members, and of those that were many did not attempt pioneering or difficult climbs. Those who did choose to climb the highest summits were united only in their love of the mountains; they had widely differing views on women’s role, the spiritual and aesthetic experience of the mountains and their love or disdain of exercise and exploration. Rather than being heroically omniscient with unlimited powers of physical and mental endurance, several mountaineers needed the rest and respite afforded by the mountains - needs that were almost the antithesis of the valiant, carefree adventurer.

Clare Roche 2015
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