L'Equipement de l'Alpiniste 1900

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Messages 261 - 280 of total 363 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2018 - 12:31am PT

No, I have no Werk Fulpmes or Ralling Fulpmes catalog.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2018 - 12:52am PT

Michael Pfurtscheller lived in the Stubai valley from 1776 to 1854. He took over an "handelshaus" in 1811. His children and grandchildren continued using his name as their firm name.

The demontable Michael Pfurtscheller ice axe below, and also seen above, was made before there were any logos or names on the axes.


I think the ice axe below is also made before a logo was registered. You can see the name Michael Pfurtscheller, but no logo.



First in 1889 there seems to have been registered firm logos as seen below.


In 1902 the Michael Pfurtscheller firm came to an end. The firm was bought by Wergenossenschaft Fulpmes, which was started in 1897/98, and there was an interesting change of logo.

Here you see the first Michael Pfurtscheller logo seen above with crown, crosses and the letters M and P.


And here is a Werkgenossenschaft Fulpmes logo with the same crown and crosses, but a change of letters from MP to WG (W for Werk and G for Genossenschaft)


And here's a piton hammer carrying the crown, crosses and WG logo


Interesting to see from old objects and papers is also that Fulpmes is in between mentioned as Vulpmes and Tulpmes.

Stubai valley smiths at work

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2018 - 07:20am PT

De Saussure is often seen as the first person having the idea of climbing a mountain for the pure reason of getting to the top + science.

In 1543 Conrad Gesner wrote:

“As long as it may please God to grant me life, I will ascend several mountains, or at least one, every year at the season when the flowers are in their glory, partly for the sake of examining them, and partly for the sake of good bodily exercise and mental delight”
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2018 - 10:23am PT

Mountaineering Memories (1919)

[Click to View YouTube Video]

This film is a heritage item from Library and Archives Canada and is only available in English.

Travelogue of a scenic trip from Banff to Mount Assiniboine, and the efforts made to climb the heights of this tremendous glacier. This film shows in detail the splendid glory of the Canadian Rocky Mountain scenery.

Source: Library and Archives Canada. Jean-Jacques Joly fonds


Thanks to Jim Brennan for discovering and posting the film on another thread.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2018 - 02:50pm PT

Douglas Freshfield’s acceptance of women in areas that some, such as Leslie Stephen, felt were only for men was publicly demonstrated in 1893, but in a different context to mountaineering. As secretary of the Royal Geographic Society, Freshfield succeeded in getting ladies admitted as members. Lord Curzon fiercely opposed this change and managed, through influence and coercion, to quickly overturn the decision. Freshfield was furious; the society was prepared to prevent the ‘eminent lady traveller Mrs Bishop (Miss Bird)’ and the RGS’s ‘Gold Medallists, the late Mrs Somerville, Lady Franklin, Miss Edwards and Miss North’ becoming members whilst conferring membership on many male members who, in contrast to these women, had contributed little to geographical understanding. The RGS reinstated women in 1913, but Freshfield resigned over the issue and it was ten years before his relationship with the society was restored – he was awarded the Gold Medal for Round Kanchenjunga in 1903. His annoyance with the Society was its inconsistency – they would award women Gold Medals but not membership. A woman introduced Freshfield to mountain exploration; he knew gender was immaterial to making geographical discoveries, as the female Gold Medallists of the society attested to. Whilst Freshfield, unlike Wills, did not overtly encourage women by his writing to go into the hills, his actions with the RGS and his climbs with various women family members show his leanings. The choice of a wife like Gussy, who was self confident and unafraid to air her firm opinions, suggests he was at ease with a greater balance and collaboration between the differing genders.

The vision of manliness as one of self-discipline and control, independent and responsible, was raised to a heroic level in the Alps. In this environment male mountaineers were often portrayed as vanquishing against the odds, displaying patriotism, fortitude, courage and endurance in the face of perilous precipices or immense icefalls. This exaggerated depiction, however, was largely imaginary; it played to what many hoped for – a fantasy for either themselves or their sons. Most men who went to the Alps were not AC members, and of those that were many did not attempt pioneering or difficult climbs. Those who did choose to climb the highest summits were united only in their love of the mountains; they had widely differing views on women’s role, the spiritual and aesthetic experience of the mountains and their love or disdain of exercise and exploration. Rather than being heroically omniscient with unlimited powers of physical and mental endurance, several mountaineers needed the rest and respite afforded by the mountains - needs that were almost the antithesis of the valiant, carefree adventurer.

Clare Roche 2015
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2018 - 09:21am PT


Female climbers have been a rather neglected theme in Norwegian climbing history. Therese Bertheau is known to many, but it was not only her. There were also numerous other women. Most of them are today rarely recognized for their achievements. It was men who wrote about dangerous climbs and inaccessible mountain peaks, never women. Their story has never been told, and that motivated climber and author Arne Larsen to write this book: "Pionerer - Kvinnenes klatrehistorie fra dametinder til K2".

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2018 - 12:15pm PT

From time to time an old pre 1900 ice axe/alpenstock is sold on eBay. So it was today, sold from France, though the model is usually connected to Austria. In the old days blacksmiths found inspiration for making ice axes across the borders and often produced ice axes according to spesifications from their clients. This particular ice axe is 140 cm long and may have been a demontable version.

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2018 - 11:20pm PT

French climbing boots from the 1920s

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2018 - 11:27am PT

Ski bindings pre 1900

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2018 - 11:32am PT

Georges Casella 1914: L'Heroisme des Guides de Montagne (Burgener, Ravanel, Almer, Demarchi)

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2018 - 01:54pm PT

L’Alpinisme en Hiver – Jacques Mortane.

Le savant Janssen au milieu de ses guides et porteurs. Joseph Ravanel, Arthur Ravanel, Adolphe Folliguet.

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 1, 2018 - 05:43pm PT
Marlow, I saw Russians wearing boots like that in the Pamirs in 1978! 😳
They didn’t care. They just wanted to get to the mountains.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2018 - 12:59am PT

Jaaan has confirmed that boots like these are still used in the Swiss highlands:

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2018 - 01:12am PT

And if nothing has changed, this Norwegian, Nils Faarlund, still use leather boots:

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Faarlund's longstanding contribution to Norwegian outdoor life is based on his holistic philosophy of nature and human dignity. He is one of the founders of the Norwegian eco-philosophy, together with Arne Næss, Sigmund Kvaløy Setreng and other philosophers and rock climbers in the 1960s. This was the start of "deep ecology", which became an important inspiration for many, including the business philosophy of the company Patagonia.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2018 - 01:24am PT

Stetind - The Norwegian Eco-Mountain: http://sustonmagazine.com/2017/06/05/the-norwegian-eco-mountain/


The young climbers were troubled by two questions. They came from Trondheim University of Technology. How could they explain to people why they spent so much time on life-threatening climbing routes, instead of being in the center of modern Norway?

Second was that during their hikes in the mountains, they saw how new roads and hydroelectric power construction destroyed one beautiful mountain after another. Was it really right?

Arne Næss introduced them to the 17th century philosopher Baruch Spinoza, and his pantheistic thoughts about how everything and everyone belong together, about the nature of nature and how we can identify with this nature – and then experience deep, true joy. This philosophy of everything’s own element was well suited to the new subject of ecology, studied by Nils Faarlund, which showed how living organisms depend on each other and the environment around them.

From these discussions about the philosophy of life and science, new thoughts and ideas were born. That preserving a free nature, unharmed by modern society, may not only be pleasant – maybe it is also possible to scientifically prove that it is vital to life?

And that being in nature may not only be generally pleasant and healthy – maybe it is also vital to life, on a deeper level?
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Sep 3, 2018 - 06:44am PT




Marlow - That is really beautiful!




Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2018 - 10:21am PT

Marty. I agree, beautiful and truthful...
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 4, 2018 - 11:21am PT

Wouldn’t want to meet the chap who carried THAT piolet in a dark alley!
I guess his mates didn’t even need no stinking piolets!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2018 - 11:26am PT

Soggemoen on the right was a hardman and has the looks of an unpredictable savage. The two others look quite civilized...

People found inside the deep Scandinavian woods had much in common with Soggemoen, maybe more of it...


Hermann Buhl also comes to mind: "The life of the parents is the book their children read. There are those who are always destined to go first. Their path is a lonely one, surrounded by unknown obstacles and dangers, yet they never lose their confidence. One of these men was Hermann Buhl. His vision was called Nanga Parbat, an 8125-meter peak in Pakistan. It turned into his mountain. Seven expeditions had already failed,and its snows had become a grave for thirty-one climbers. The Austrian reached the summit in 1953, without the use of supplemental oxygen, after a legendary solo climb. He was the first human up there, and for a moment, he got to see the world as only the Gods can. Then he went back to the world of people." (Alpinist.com)


Which brings us to CMC's Blood Meridian:
"It grew colder and the night lay long before him. He kept moving, following in the darkness the naked chimes of rock blown bare of snow. The stars burned with a lidless fixity and they drew nearer in the night until toward dawn he was stumbling among the whinstones of the uttermost ridge to heaven, a barren range of rock so enfolded in that gaudy house that stars lay awash at his feet and migratory spalls of burning matter crossed constantly about him on their chartless reckonings. In the predawn light he made his way out upon the premontory and there received first of any creature in that country the warmth of the sun's ascending."
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Sep 4, 2018 - 02:48pm PT
Jaaan has confirmed that boots like these are still used in the Swiss highlands:


Well at least on one farm in Göschenertal!
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